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8m x 8m x 3m Garage/Workshop

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hermanj

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Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Port elizabeth is a fantastic place to stay. Saw bush buck whilst cycling through the country side, then when coming home and being next to the sea saw a huge school of dolphins. I know the collective noun for a lot of dolphins is not school but can not remember that far back. :dunno:
 
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1/2 Cup

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Port elizabeth is a fantastic place to stay. Saw bush buck whilst cycling through the country side, then when coming home and being next to the sea saw a huge school of dolphins. I know the collective noun for a lot of dolphins is not school but can not remember that far back. :dunno:

Its called a pod of dolphins I think
 
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hermanj

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They are casting the floor flat out...........no punn intended.

20131212_112006_zpsb80a5310.jpg


It takes a bit of time to work the concrete into the cavity. A lot of steel in there.
 
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hermanj

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Just went to pick up the electrics. With the floor done they will pull the walls up to plug height so as I am the electrician, I have tobe ready.

20131212_161225_zps3a9ab581.jpg


Lose wire 1.5 mm sq for the lights and 2.5mm sq twin and earth for the plugs.

Will buy the switches once I need them.
 

katotter

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Is that REF193 or REF100 mesh I see?

What finish will you be going on the floor when done?why no house wire for plugs too? I used surfix all round, expensive way of doing it.
 

1/2 Cup

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Just went to pick up the electrics. With the floor done they will pull the walls up to plug height so as I am the electrician, I have tobe ready.

20131212_161225_zps3a9ab581.jpg


Lose wire 1.5 mm sq for the lights and 2.5mm sq twin and earth for the plugs.

Will buy the switches once I need them.

I didn't realise you guys had metric cable sizing like us here in Australia. I am looking forward to seeing your electrical installation.:thumbup:
 

theoldwizard1

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I just found this thread. It is always interesting to see construction techniques on the opposite side of the world !


  • As other have said, brick is pretty expensive in the US. Those look like "used" (reclaimed) brick, which are even MORE expensive.
  • Brick laying in the US is a SKILLED trade and mason get paid accordingly !
  • Anything else special about the concrete mixture between the brick walls, other than is contains no aggregate ? I would assume the mixture would be pretty wet because the brick would pull much of the water out.
  • Here, the walls would be formed up with plywood, rebar inserted and then poured with high strength concrete. pneumatic vibrators would be used to insure no air pockets.
  • I'm certain other precautions would be required build that close to your neighbors wall.
    You are fortunate that the soil is mostly sand so that you do not have to worry about drainage from uphill.
 
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hermanj

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I don't know what schedule mesh it is. They created the mesh on site. It was lengths of 10mm rebar.
The plugs need so little wire and the house wire is only sold in 100m rolls, so wouldchave been more expensive to do the plugs in house wire. I have to redo my ond garage's lights before fitting a ceiling so needed a lot of 1.5 wire.

1) Those are brand new brivks, you will see earlier where the bricks were delivered. 500 on a pallet and cling wrapped.
2) Here it is also a trade, but not as expensive as say a fitter and turner or a toolmaker.
3) The concrete is 30 mPa with 19mm stone, it is pretty wet. Fortunately it has been rsining for the tlast couple of days so the bricks were pretty wet.
4) They tried the ********, but the gap was too small so they reverted back to a piece of 20mm rebar. I captured the guy in one of the picks working the concrete in and the ait out.
5) All we need here is consent from your neibour. I have to rebuild the boundry wall and gix up his garden. Luckely it is an area that is almost un reachable. The hill is pretty steep in that area.
 
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hermanj

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This is my existing garages.(11m x 6m). This is the second project. To turn them into 'CLEAN' garages. Ceilings, spotlights on the cars, epoxy or tile floor ( still can not make up my mind) and only 4 cars and a HD in them. No spades, no lawnmowers no TV boxes waiting for the guarantee to expire before I can dump them.

garages1_zpsb0a6aee8.jpg


There is the back part of an Atom type of car I am building that I could not get into the pic.:lol:
 

NUTTSGT

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So will the inside of the walls get plastered or is there another wall going to be put up of brick and concrete between the two ?
 
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hermanj

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There is a second wall going on the inside. The cavity will then be filled with concrete. The whole thing will then get plastered and painted white.

20131213_182142_zpsc88bf948.jpg


Here you can see the cavity. Normally the walls will be 270mm thick if they are not retainer walls. This being retainer walls these are 340mm wide and has the extra rebar mesh in.
 

theoldwizard1

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Here you can see the cavity. Normally the walls will be 270mm thick if they are not retainer walls. This being retainer walls these are 340mm wide and has the extra rebar mesh in.

That is some pretty heavy rebar and a lot of it !

As I said before, in the US, the wall would formed with plywood, but to hold back a hill that size I would guess it would be at least 450mm thick
 
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hermanj

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Everything has been specified by an engineer after he came to inspect the site.

There is an agricultural drain that is going in at the bottom of the outside walls.

Apparently it is a 110 diameter pipe with holes in it and then coarce stone all the way to the top.

Then the water is suppose to seap down to the pipe and keep the moist out. My biggest fear.
 

theoldwizard1

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E
There is an agricultural drain that is going in at the bottom of the outside walls.

Apparently it is a 110 diameter pipe with holes in it and then coarce stone all the way to the top.

Then the water is suppose to seap down to the pipe and keep the moist out. My biggest fear.

First, I have to smile at how close all of your "metric" building material sizes align with US sizes ! (Here that would be 4" pipe - 101mm)

Second, as long as that drain pipe stays clear, it WILL work well and carry the excess moisture away from the wall.
 
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katotter

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In the US they call it weeping tile or something. Here it is 4 1/2" perforated pvc piping. You will have to get a certain membrane called bidim cloth to cover it and prevent sand clogging it up. Works a treat but is helishly expensive. But I reckon you would not need much. I can help you with codes for you local building supply store. In order for you to get the right stuff you need.

I like the way you are using 10mm Y bar and making your own mesh. Far cheaper that way. I regret not adding steel to my floor. Not that its cracking. But wanted that extra security.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Here it is 4 1/2" perforated pvc piping. You will have to get a certain membrane called bidim cloth to cover it and prevent sand clogging it up.

They sell 2 different kind here. Typically 4" (100mm) but larger is available for commercial jobs.


  1. A corrugated flexible pipe, sometime with a nylon cloth cover to prevent clogging from sand/silt. It comes is a LARGE roll.
  2. A solid PVC pipe (but the wall is not as thick as the wall of a sanitary drain pipe) with a row of hole. They also sell a nylon sock you can put over it, again to prevent sand/silt from clogging.

Typical installation is, line the ditch with landscape cloth (probably the same as bidim cloth) and then add a couple of inches of 3/4" (19mm) gravel/crushed rock. This makes it easy to set the pitch for proper drainage. cover with more 3/4" gravel. Fold cloth over the top and back fill.
 

Speedfreak5150

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Hi i was just wondering why you have used bricks instead of 200 series concrete blocks (200mx200mx400mm), which is what would be used if you were rendering a wall like that in new zealand
 

katotter

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Marley Pipe system's code for the slotted pipe is UTL420, this is the more expensive type, which is the right one, there is a cheaper one, but I cannot recall it's use.
 
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hermanj

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Finally got the courage together to take the plastic factory bumper off my wife's Jeep and fit a steel one with some nice recovery points and a tow bar.

Old one off

IMG-20131215-00258_zps56f9daca.jpg


And the new one on.

IMG-20131215-00260_zpsd2119543.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

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There is a second wall going on the inside. The cavity will then be filled with concrete. The whole thing will then get plastered and painted white.

20131213_182142_zpsc88bf948.jpg


Here you can see the cavity. Normally the walls will be 270mm thick if they are not retainer walls. This being retainer walls these are 340mm wide and has the extra rebar mesh in.

Thanks, great picture to explain it.


BTW, I like the new rear bumper. :thumbup:
 
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Dr Dave

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iowa
Why did they not make the floor smooth? Around here, they use a bull float(long aluminum pole with a 8" ×36" magnesium blade) to get the floor smooth and level.Then they will use a power trowl, with Wood padels like a fan, this makes the floor smooth as glass.

If you do not want a slick surface they skip the power trowl. And for some they use a shop broom and lightly drag it over the concrete, this is usualy done on outdoor surfaces.

Its interesting to see how things are done in other countries.

Dave
 
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hermanj

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Port Elizabeth, South Africa
I think the problem was that the walls were already up. They put a topping on the floor once all the building is done, all the bricks, mortar and tools dropped aon a fresh floor chipping it. Otherwise I will be very unhappy. I also stopped them from mixing mortar on the floor.
 
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hermanj

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That is what our DBs looks like. This is a 15 slot unit.
2 slots for 2 pole Main isolator
2 slots for Earth Leakage switch
1 slot 40A circuitbreaker = stove
1 slot 20A CB = geyser
2 slots 15A = plugs grage and upstairs
2 slots 10A = lights garage and upstairs
1 slot 40A = future entertainment area
2 slots timer for garden lights
That should leave 2 spares just in case I want to run a dedicated line for my welder.
 

katotter

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South Africa
Really like your way of doing the conduit, the guys in my town can only dream of that type of install. You said you are an electrician? Can you also do your own COC?
 
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