That's why I love these builds in another country. We get to see "out of the norm" stuff.
8m x 8m x 3m Garage/Workshop
- Thread starter hermanj
- Start date
That's why I love these builds in another country. We get to see "out of the norm" stuff.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I am always envious of those who live in countries where the standard current is 240V !
katotter
Well-known member
I am not. We get regular power cuts and pay through our ears for electricity. Believe me. You are better off.
No I am no electrician, but I am 'THE' electrician.
I will do all the boxes, condute and DB. But then get a profesional to then connect up the power ftom the main DB to the new one. Check all my lives are lives, neutrals are neatral and earths are well.......earths and then hopefully certify the whole installation at a fraction of the cost it would have been if he had to do the complete job.
First 1.5m of the cavities were filled today and the Rib and Block was delivered, but I was trying out the new bumper in the Baviaans Kloof so will only share some pics tomorrow. Almost could not get the Jeep up thr driveway because the R and B was just dumped at the bottom of the driveway.
I will do all the boxes, condute and DB. But then get a profesional to then connect up the power ftom the main DB to the new one. Check all my lives are lives, neutrals are neatral and earths are well.......earths and then hopefully certify the whole installation at a fraction of the cost it would have been if he had to do the complete job.
First 1.5m of the cavities were filled today and the Rib and Block was delivered, but I was trying out the new bumper in the Baviaans Kloof so will only share some pics tomorrow. Almost could not get the Jeep up thr driveway because the R and B was just dumped at the bottom of the driveway.
So they only fill the cavities a little at a time ? I guess that would make sense if there's no bracing to hold the brick in place.
The cavity ties (i did post a pic) ties the 2 walls together, but the cavity with the reinforcing in is too small for the vibtator, so they use a metal rod to get the air out. If they would make it the full 3m height, it would be too difficult to know when all the air is out.
Ah yeah, I remember you posting something about not using a ******** and using a rod instead.
This is what the Baviaans looks like.
If anybody visitis South Africa..... I know you all want to go up Table mountain, visit Robyn Island, lgo ans see some wales, then there is the big hole at Kimberly and the list continues, but do not overlook a trip into the Baviaans. It is beautifull and untouched by man. I added the link. Hope it works.
http://www.baviaanskloof.za.cx/
Also saw some animals, not likethe Kruger park, or Addo, kudu, Bushbuck, a few huge tortoise and lots of Baboons.
We had a picknick basket, so halfway through the trip we found a nice shady tree, it was 27 deg C by then and had a few snacks and a little something cool for the throat.
If anybody visitis South Africa..... I know you all want to go up Table mountain, visit Robyn Island, lgo ans see some wales, then there is the big hole at Kimberly and the list continues, but do not overlook a trip into the Baviaans. It is beautifull and untouched by man. I added the link. Hope it works.
http://www.baviaanskloof.za.cx/
Also saw some animals, not likethe Kruger park, or Addo, kudu, Bushbuck, a few huge tortoise and lots of Baboons.
We had a picknick basket, so halfway through the trip we found a nice shady tree, it was 27 deg C by then and had a few snacks and a little something cool for the throat.
So after playing with my wife's toy ( the Jeep) in the Baviaanskloof yesterday and leaving the builders over to themselves, I am back todat to take some more pics and anoy the builders with my constant keep the site clean. Not that it really helps.
This is the R&B delivered to the bottom of my driveway. This is pretty significant to the builders as it is a fairly steep 40m to the building site at the top of the driveway.
This is about halfway up. Now you can start to see the building in the top courner.
The actual building site.
The lintels also arrived yesterday for spanning the garage doors. I desided to fit both doors with what we call caravan doors. Extra height to allow Jeeps with roofracks and Jerry cans to drive straight in.
This is the R&B delivered to the bottom of my driveway. This is pretty significant to the builders as it is a fairly steep 40m to the building site at the top of the driveway.
This is about halfway up. Now you can start to see the building in the top courner.
The actual building site.
The lintels also arrived yesterday for spanning the garage doors. I desided to fit both doors with what we call caravan doors. Extra height to allow Jeeps with roofracks and Jerry cans to drive straight in.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Keeping the site clean really helps a builder with health and safety issues, better productivity as the are not spending time looking for stuff and its a much nicer environment to work in. Keep up the great work.
This is the R&B delivered to the bottom of my driveway. This is pretty significant to the builders as it is a fairly steep 40m to the building site at the top of the driveway.
So where does these block come into play ?
These are the ribs. They spanthe full 8m. They are packed about 510mm appart. The steel reinforcing faces upwards.
The blocks are then packed into the 510mm gaps. As you can see they have flanges that ly onto the ribs.
You run your electrical pipes along the cavities. There are some special blocks for placing your electrical connection boxes.
Once everything is packed, steel mesh is layd over the top and a 50mm concrete slab is cast tying everything together. The whole structure has to be propped for 14 days to give the concrete time to dry. Getting lighter and stronger.
The bottom then gets plastered to become the ceiling.
The blocks are then packed into the 510mm gaps. As you can see they have flanges that ly onto the ribs.
You run your electrical pipes along the cavities. There are some special blocks for placing your electrical connection boxes.
Once everything is packed, steel mesh is layd over the top and a 50mm concrete slab is cast tying everything together. The whole structure has to be propped for 14 days to give the concrete time to dry. Getting lighter and stronger.
The bottom then gets plastered to become the ceiling.
I need to keep following along, this rib/block is beyond me right now.
katotter
Well-known member
Best way of explaining it is that it is the same as the American way of casting concrete. But where the US guys use plywood for forming and rebar for reinforcement. This is a plywood and reinforcement in one and it stays there. Personally I do not like using this method, but its the cheapest way of doing a co crete first story floor.
katotter
Well-known member
Liking the progress Herman. Daai manne lê stene asof hulle betaal word 
I am still to read what you going to do with the floor? Tile? Polish? Screed?
I toled, but will not use ceramic again. Porcelain would have been better.
I am still to read what you going to do with the floor? Tile? Polish? Screed?
I toled, but will not use ceramic again. Porcelain would have been better.
katotter
Well-known member
I am not sure about pricing. But I am sure if you get someone to do it they will **** you. I know the machine you use is cheap to rent and not that hard to do yourself. It looks like a huge floor buffer you would see at you local Pick 'n Pay polishing the floors. Instead of a buffing wheel, it has three random oscillating diamond cup wheels. That spins and grinds the floor level. Personally I love this look, but my prep was meant for tiling so I had to go with it.
Steel floating a screed in your case might be the answer. Thats a tough work surface for your car building.
Looking good.
Steel floating a screed in your case might be the answer. Thats a tough work surface for your car building.
Looking good.
katotter
Well-known member
That is what I like about it, you can see all the odd bits and bobs, I once saw half a bank card, a nail, orange peel and odd stuff like that, makes for good conversation whilst having beers with your mates.
katotter
Well-known member
Here is two links I could pick up quickly.
http://www.polishedconcretefloors.co.za/index.php/ground-and-polished-concrete
http://www.polishedconcretefloors.co.za/index.php/ground-and-polished-concrete
katotter
Well-known member
Don't know,
Don't know,
Mine was rough too. I am pretty sure you can start with any surface and end up smooth.
katotter
Well-known member
Uuuuupdaaaaates
madoc1
Well-known member
looking good! a question-you say you will pour a 50mm thick floor on the blocks. that sure seems like a lot of concrete. why so much?
to all the GJ junkies.
RSOllie
Well-known member
Interesting build that!
But how hot is it there atm? Matey got a wooly hat on and I'm sure its not needed lol
But how hot is it there atm? Matey got a wooly hat on and I'm sure its not needed lol
Builders only left now. Complete rear wall was also plastered.
I am a huge VW supporter and wanted to build something with a VW powertrain.
Also looking at the future there might be a buisness in being able to produce a comettative racer for around R100k about $10K. That is doable if you use a single donar car.
So the eXso ( Don't want to use the Atom name) will be something with minimalistic body panel wise, but
Also getting rid of all the costly things like push rod suspension, fly by wire accelerator and superchargers.
It will be able to accomodate from a 1400 Polo engine to a 2000 20v Turbo Audi engine, just depends on you wallet.
So far I have built and fitted the engine and rear uprights. Discs all round and dual master cylinders with balance bar.
This is a 1800 Jetta engine, I will just bolt a Turbo to this engi e to start off. Should be good fot 150 kW and a lot of fun at about 500kg.
Stop the project to build a 7 Birkin. The 3rd Lotus 7 replica I am building. Both the other 2 were scratch builds. First one powered by 1600 Kent and 2nd one 1600 16v Toyota powered. The Birkin is powered by a 1600 20V Toyota, can understand why I want to build something with a VW powerplant.
The first one
The second one
And the Birkin
I am a huge VW supporter and wanted to build something with a VW powertrain.
Also looking at the future there might be a buisness in being able to produce a comettative racer for around R100k about $10K. That is doable if you use a single donar car.
So the eXso ( Don't want to use the Atom name) will be something with minimalistic body panel wise, but
Also getting rid of all the costly things like push rod suspension, fly by wire accelerator and superchargers.
It will be able to accomodate from a 1400 Polo engine to a 2000 20v Turbo Audi engine, just depends on you wallet.
So far I have built and fitted the engine and rear uprights. Discs all round and dual master cylinders with balance bar.
This is a 1800 Jetta engine, I will just bolt a Turbo to this engi e to start off. Should be good fot 150 kW and a lot of fun at about 500kg.
Stop the project to build a 7 Birkin. The 3rd Lotus 7 replica I am building. Both the other 2 were scratch builds. First one powered by 1600 Kent and 2nd one 1600 16v Toyota powered. The Birkin is powered by a 1600 20V Toyota, can understand why I want to build something with a VW powerplant.
The first one
The second one
And the Birkin
Jagmandave
Well-known member
It's great that you have an assembly table to build it on, but how do you get it down from there when it's done?
If you'd like to see how one guy built his version of what you're building, check out this build thread...
http://www.midlana.com/
If you'd like to see how one guy built his version of what you're building, check out this build thread...
http://www.midlana.com/
Very easy, it only weighs about 200kg without the engine and fluids.
Strap the back to the roof rafters with big ratchet straps. Lift the front with my engine hoist. Then pull the table out and lower it down to the ground.
It is currently on the ground as I am finalizing the electrical. Tried to do it on the table, but was awkard, just too far to reach to the centre of the car and my engine hoist could not lift heigh enough to get the e gine in. Subsequently I have found it much easier to drop the car over the engine and then lift the e gine into position when fabricating the engine and gearbox mounts I had to in and out the engine 8 times in one day.
Strap the back to the roof rafters with big ratchet straps. Lift the front with my engine hoist. Then pull the table out and lower it down to the ground.
It is currently on the ground as I am finalizing the electrical. Tried to do it on the table, but was awkard, just too far to reach to the centre of the car and my engine hoist could not lift heigh enough to get the e gine in. Subsequently I have found it much easier to drop the car over the engine and then lift the e gine into position when fabricating the engine and gearbox mounts I had to in and out the engine 8 times in one day.
