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Anyone Tear Down a House?

tinmanwpk

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Jacksonville
I bought a property with an old house on it. The house is a simple one story frame structure, 1153 square feet and 105 years old. It has lived a full life but it needs to come down. Holes in the floor, roof is on its last legs, no hvac, no water heater, bad plumbing and asbestos shingles for siding.

Has anyone torn down a house by themselves? I really do not want to hire a contractor for $15,000 PLUS asbestos removal. Any pointers? Should I even attempt this? I can remove the siding myself over time. I have a complete face mask with proper filters and tyvek suits. In Jacksonville homeowners can remove their own asbestos siding and, get this, throw it in the trash for the garbagemen to pick up. But since the property is zoned Light Industrial instead of Residential the city will not allow a professional demolition service to just tear it down as if it had no asbestos at all.

Any ideas? Should I even attempt this?
 
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DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
I bought a property with an old house on it. The house is a simple one story frame structure, 1153 square feet and 105 years old. It has lived a full life but it needs to come down. Holes in the floor, roof is on its last legs, no hvac, no water heater, bad plumbing and asbestos shingles for siding.

Has anyone torn down a house by themselves? I really do not want to hire a contractor for $15,000 PLUS asbestos removal. Any pointers? Should I even attempt this? I can remove the siding myself over time. I have a complete face mask with proper filters and tyvek suits. In Jacksonville homeowners can remove their own asbestos siding and, get this, throw it in the trash for the garbagemen to pick up. But since the property is zoned Light Industrial instead of Residential the city will not allow a professional demolition service to just tear it down as if it had no asbestos at all.

Any ideas? Should I even attempt this?

Your local fire department may burn it for you as a training exercise.
 

Ilikeike

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I've demoed a couple of Double wide trailer home/offices, and a small stick built office with a backhoe,
put everything in 40 yard dumpsters.
We didn't test for asbestos though.
 

steel 35

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Had the shingles removed, fire department torched it trained inside as it burned,
said ok, I stured it up with a excavator and put it in a dumpster the next day.

No *** in it. Here they charge by the ton at the dump.
 
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tinmanwpk

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Having the Fire Department burn it would be great, but the house is in the ghetto with its ancient zoning/codes. It is way too close to adjacent buildings for a burn without any collateral damage.
 

Boogerman

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aspen cove hill
If you have the time and ability, absolutely would make sense to do it. Particularly, the asbestos.

I did a quick calculation, you'd probably have around $3000 to $4000 in the disposal costs:
1702398636141.png


One person, with a few tools (ripping bars, pry bar, sledge, reciprocating saw, skilsaw, wheelbarrow) could easily demo and load this out in a month of full time work. Assuming the AC siding costs wash out with what the dump and hauling fees would be, you're making $15,000+ for a month of labor? You'd probably have another $1000 in equipment rental for a skid steer to demo and load out foundation, etc. and a few dollars for reciprocating saw blades, and such. You would probably want to make sure you have some insurance, and will want to put up some signs and safety fence for liability reasons.

Go for it!

Edit: As a postscript, had this same exact calculation personally a few weeks ago. I bid $11,000 to do a similar demo. The owner got a few friends to help, rented a mini excavator, and with the occasional help of a few friends had the demo completed and cleaned up in a week. I'd guess he had $3500 in it in rental, trucking and dump fees.
 
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tinmanwpk

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I'm very tempted to do this myself, even if it is little by little. The front porch will easily come down as will a back addition. That would leave the house structure. Yep, remove the windows and siding and then a match, er, I mean a little demo work and she's down like a cheap date.
 
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tinmanwpk

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Unlimited hand tools and a large independent equipment rental house three blocks down the street. I own a sheet metal fabrication shop, so tools and blades are "free".
 

driftpin

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Having the Fire Department burn it would be great, but the house is in the ghetto with its ancient zoning/codes. It is way too close to adjacent buildings for a burn without any collateral damage.
Mti-mark said:
Their problem, not yours.

If this is said in-jest, well, that's a cavalier remark to a potentially horrendous outcome.

If you mean it, this is probably one of the most-callous pieces of advice I've read on the forum. I hope you (the O.P.) ignore that 'advice.'

You better check everything you want to do, and the permits you need are all granted.

As to having the local FD do a controlled burn, given the proximity of adjacent properties, I suspect the answer to that will be 'no-thanks.' Regulation of controlled burns in the State of Florida got to be much-harder to co-ordinate after a Maimi-Dade County (Miami metropolitan area) probationary firefighter was killed during a live-burn training exercise.

In my prior career as a Florida firefighter/paramedic, I also took the course in conducting live-burn exercises, and have done them. Here are issues you face:
  • posting a bond for clean-up according to the AHJ's estimate
  • disconnection of utilities and proper treatment of them by qualified utility personnel (water, sewer, gas, electric, or other)
  • mitigation of asbestos building materials after an examination of the site by a qualified party identifies the location and amounts of asbestos present
  • insurance for the operation to proceed
  • use of qualified contractors to perform the work. Thinking you can 'do it yourself' I do not expect will be successful. Just because you're the RPO (registered property owner) doesn't mean that you can do what you wish. I suspect that you have never lived in the house as-of recently. Being a RPO/non-resident of the site you may discover requires additional criteria you will need to meet
  • is this a Florida 'cracker' wood-frame building? Built on a few short columns of CBS (often stacked CMU's)? Or is there a spread-footer below-grade with stem walls to some point above-grade? Have you determined the amount of foundation below-grade? If it has that type of construction, you better plan for removal of the material, which would at a minimum, call for a large backhoe and multiple dumptrucks
  • Insurance for this undertaking is something you definitely require. In your work, what do you expect is your legal liability if part of an adjacent structure develops structural damage?
Remediation of the site is something which may cost you a considerable sum, and you need to plan for the financial expenditure necessary to fulfill this obligation. Grading, planting grass, improvements such as adding sidewalks, curbing, or repairs to civil engineering components (damage to streets, swales, curb cuts, etc) are likely covered in your local codes and ordinances. Restoration or establishment of foliage like trees and shrubs is probably part of your obligation under codes and ordinances also.

Are you planning to sell the parcel after the demolition, and you're planning on doing this to make it more-saleable? Are you planning to build new housing on the parcel? You need to check into the impact fees, and the time duration after removing the structure before which you need to commence construction of a new dwelling, if that is your plan. Go beyond that timeframe and you may be shocked at what is required by your local regional planning council for impact fees due. Be sure to investigate this before you proceed. Know everything you can about the regulations and ordinances in-place. I know of one instance where the municipal AHJ required the property owner to submit and have-approved a set of plans for a replacement structure on the parcel before they would grant the demolition permit. That was in an area zoned for SFR's (single-family residences).

In a worst-case scenario, 'do-it-yourself' may become a financially-ruinous decision which in hindsight, was a foolish one to-make.

You can start with reading to a point of thorough understanding of the procedures involved in something such as you propose in your scope of work, beginning here (but not being all-inclusive, consult your AHJ for all which is required)

 
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tinmanwpk

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The piece of property is contiguous - it's next door to my place of business that I also own. Without a doubt I will not burn the place down without scorching the metal building my business is housed in. The wood frame house, as I mentioned, is over 100 years old. It is built above grade with only some 2 foot square isolated brick footing. It is not the most solid building which leads me to believe it has some rotten framing underneath.

I just want the place down. No new building other than maybe a small garage in the back end of the property. It will take about $1000 - $1500 in permits, and I have been told I have to have some "professionals" pull a couple of the permits. This includes capping the sanitary piping. Buy a $5 cap but it takes $500 for a pro to pull the permit!

I cannot get insurance on the place. I have tried with both my homeowners insurance agent as well as my company insurance agent. I really want just liability insurance, but no go. This place will be gone before summer.
 

hmbemis

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What about removing the asbestos yourself as the homeowner, then hiring a demo company to get rid of the rest of the building? Or is the asbestos now a known quantity and abement is required for any professional demo?

Editing... ok it's next to your business... most of my other concerns are likely not a big deal because you "know the neighbor" so to speak. Yeah what's the worst that can happen? Rent an excavator for a week and knock the stuff down. Then get some dump trunks or roll offs to pack it all in.
 
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tinmanwpk

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We really don't have any issues in our 'hood. Since the house is adjacent to my place of work I'm not concerned about "working alone''.
 
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mike93lx

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Pulling windows and knocking down walls are easy. What about the roof? How about the effort and potential for injury in moving everything? And add in rotten framing.

Do you have a way to haul off everything? And the time to do it?

If that's all worth it to you, then you have a chance to save some money.
 

driftpin

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Here in south Florida that style would be referred to as a Bahamian bungalow. It's too-big for what we'd call a 'shotgun shack,' which are only one-room wide.

If you attempt to do it yourself, get insurance (probably a requirement as I said earlier) and follow to the letter the requirements for mitigation of any materials deemed hazardous. I still think it's worth-it to use a professional for that because of potential health risks to the workers and the insurance for liability they carry.
 
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tinmanwpk

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I will definitely remove all of the asbestos siding myself. I might remove the back addition that is just hanging on by a thread. Then, after that I will reassess the situation and decide if I want to remove the front porch. One step at a time. To get to all of the siding I will have to get that back addition off.
 

Renegade1LI

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If the house was built 100 yes ago probably not much asbestos in the original construction. I assume the siding was added later? If that's the only asbestos then remove it as you said. Once removed the only efficient way to demo would be an excavator with grapple and empty containers. I have demoed a few and always with an excavator. In the other hand 15k is not a bad price, won't be much cheaper for diy.
 

andyvh1959

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1996 I bought my 2nd house cheap ($60K), small town south of Green Bay, because it had asbestos roofing and siding. I had a piece tested before buying the place, and the lab confirmed it was long fiber Asbestos. Got bids to remove the old siding/roofing, replace it with new vynil siding and OSB/asphalt shingles on the roof. One company wanted $40,000, full Hazmat gear, hazardous permits, special landfill dumping permits, etc, etc. Waste would have to be hauled three states away to a hazardous waste dumpsite at $500 per ton.

Found a local roofing/siding contractor, told him it was asbestos, he was ok with it. In his words, he said "yeah I know the stuff, just won't cut it or grind it". He did the whole job, roofing (stripped off three layers of roofing; asbestos/asphalt/cedar), siding, for $13,000. And, because I was the "contractor/owner" all I had to do was get a plastic liner/bag in the 30 cu yard dumpster, and keep it wetted as they filled it, and then a local salvage hauler took it to the county landfill, only a $500 one load fee, and it was all gone.

So, point is, as the owner/contractor, you may be able to remove the asbestos yourself, with some diligent care, and be able to dump it locally, for far less than you are being quoted. Once the siding is gone the rest is just common house salvage/waste material.
 

Innovate1

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Had a small old house on a good lot. Knew some people with a flat bed truck and I think a fork lift. They knocked down the house and cut it up in sections to go on the truck and haul to the local land fill. No hazardous stuff - just wood frame with a cement foundation but it just went in the ground about a foot with no footing so was pretty easy. I wasn't there for much of the demo but they were amateurs. Don't recall the amount as it was about 30 years ago. Had another house moved to the lot from a street nearby that was being widened. The AHJ was fine with me doing all the utilities and such.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Removing AB is more than PPE. You need to cover the area below and wet it down as you go. Here it would have to be bagged in double orange bags and labeled on the outside "AB". Then it is trucked to a hazard disposal facility. Now lead we can bag and toss. Same deal with protecting the ground, etc.

We recently had a fire that burned a huge WWII hanger that had AB in it. The thing was so big that using helicopters like they use in the hills and mountains was called off and they let it burn. All the while and still there is vacuuming with 40 gal HEPA vacs run by guys in space suits and they are vacuuming streets, parks, lawns and maybe roof tops for all I know. There were a lot of AB cinders that traveled up in the smoke and heat. This thing was so large that it actually had it's one climate inside.

75
snapshot-2023-11-12T101848.083.jpg

When it was done all that stood was the concrete door frames.
 

jack stand

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Having the Fire Department burn it would be great, but the house is in the ghetto with its ancient zoning/codes. It is way too close to adjacent buildings for a burn without any collateral damage.
You never know unless you ask.
These conditions might be a plus for the FD that I'm sure don't have many of the petty rules to follow for public safety training.
Asbestos siding is not the form that becomes easily airborne like pipe and other asbestos insulation and is commonly accepted by landfills. (In my experience)
 

bassJAM

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Cincinnati, OH
Check your local government. My parents had a 150 year old farm house (with aspestos siding) torn down by the township, who recieved grant money from the state to do it. They even dug up the foundation and flattened all the soil afterwards, looks like nothing was there now.
 

Spud McGee

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100yr old house?

Put an ad up. Free old wood. Not those undersized 2x4s you get at the hardware store. Real 2x4s.
Free reclaimed flooring (new owner to do the reclaiming)!
Free vintage lighting fixtures, door knobs, hinges, etc.

Let everybody else pick it apart for you.
 

readhead

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That is a half day job for a demolition company. If it is next to your business will you be using it to store company equipment and material? If so, the cost of demolition and grading will probably be a business write off.
 

Firebrick43

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If the house was built 100 yes ago probably not much asbestos in the original construction. I assume the siding was added later? If that's the only asbestos then remove it as you said. Once removed the only efficient way to demo would be an excavator with grapple and empty containers. I have demoed a few and always with an excavator. In the other hand 15k is not a bad price, won't be much cheaper for diy.
I guarantee the plaster had asbestos. Goat and horse hair was used until 1920 and then the industry switched to asbestos in just a few years after ww1
 
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tinmanwpk

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Absolutely the plaster has asbestos in it. No, I have not tested it. My granddad started an asbestos company in 1916. I worked there summers and then full time after college. I'm willing to wager there is asbestos in that plaster. And as many have said, the fibers in the exterior siding are just fine as long as they are not broken up (too much). PPE will be just fine outside. I'm not messing with the interior plaster.
 

mike93lx

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Absolutely the plaster has asbestos in it. No, I have not tested it. My granddad started an asbestos company in 1916. I worked there summers and then full time after college. I'm willing to wager there is asbestos in that plaster. And as many have said, the fibers in the exterior siding are just fine as long as they are not broken up (too much). PPE will be just fine outside. I'm not messing with the interior plaster.
How are you not going to be messing with the interior plaster?
 

PoorUB

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Rent an excavator with a claw and grab it all and toss into a dumpster? Separate out some of the stuff like steel roofing and cast iron pipe, copper pipe.

That would make the most sense to me. Tearing it down by hand is going to be a long process.
 

pima67

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Tucson, AZ
A house that old was probably built with old growth lumber (southern pine maybe given the location). If you take it down piece by piece, might be able to sell the dimensional lumber to make a few bucks on the deal. When I did some remodeling in a 1956 house, the studs were Doug fir with very close growth rings. Almost couldn't drive a nail in them.
 
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tinmanwpk

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I have zero interest in personally removing interior walls. When it is demo'd of course it will be touched. Just not by human hands, and not by me. I would close my shop that day.
 

Renegade1LI

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long island ny
That 15k is looking good if that includes abatement. Here in ny abatement is very expensive and the homeowner could never abate friable asbestos.
 
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