Burns Projects that will never be finished

[Ign]

howdy guys figured id make a thread on here to post and keep track of all my projects. though yal might find some interest in it.

little backstory. Im 23 went to school for machining when i was 16 and have been doing it ever since. make alot of bike and car parts for myself. Always working on something and wanted somewhere other then instagram to post stuff and talk about it more.{snip}

Nice man. When I went to school (around age 30) the kids who started with the high school program were generally the best. We just learn better when we're younger, harder to teach an old dog new tricks, in general.

Good for you!

 

[HotWire]

Cool projects! I've done quite a bit of matching and welding on bikes over the years but never run CNC. I'm looking forward to seeing you frame come together.

 

[MBfreak]

Great attitude, really nice work all around.
Keep it up!
See you use Sandvik tools, and that wonderful set of blocks from Mitotoyo were invented and perfected more tha 100 years ago in a city close to where I live. CE Johansson, still in business. Made mass manufacturing at the early US Ford factories possible.
I have done consulting for Sandvik at their factory for heat treating metal in vacuum ovens.
It is a really fantasticc company, all technology , craftmanship and pride.

Ola

 

[trytochaseme]

Yeah man, Not questioning your abilities at all.[emoji481]

All good I understand what you were saying. My boss is old-school and is the same way

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[trytochaseme]

Great attitude, really nice work all around.

Keep it up!

See you use Sandvik tools, and that wonderful set of blocks from Mitotoyo were invented and perfected more tha 100 years ago in a city close to where I live. CE Johansson, still in business. Made mass manufacturing at the early US Ford factories possible.

I have done consulting for Sandvik at their factory for heat treating metal in vacuum ovens.

It is a really fantasticc company, all technology , craftmanship and pride.



Ola

Thanks mate appreciate it.

Really happy with the sandvik stuff so far. All the shops I've worked in have only bought cheap tooling and really wanted to slowly get really quality stuff for myself. I've heard some awesome stuff about them as a company that kinda pushed me towards them and now having some of their products im a fan. Also a big mitutoyo fan. Have quite a few mitutoyo stuff and it's all extremely nice.

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[trytochaseme]

Cool projects! I've done quite a bit of matching and welding on bikes over the years but never run CNC. I'm looking forward to seeing you frame come together.

Thanks man!
Hopefully have some progress on the frame soon. Need to have atleast the first proto done by the time snow has fallen. Currently looking at redesigning some parts of it again. Thinking of changing the whole shock cradle and BB area into one large machined peice instead of many parts all welded together

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[trytochaseme]

Nice man. When I went to school (around age 30) the kids who started with the high school program were generally the best. We just learn better when we're younger, harder to teach an old dog new tricks, in general.



Good for you!

Was a great opportunity getting to go to school for it. Really didn't know anything about machining going into it but was always interested in mechanical stuff and making things so it worked out perfect ha.

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[trytochaseme]

im very particular about my tool box and tools. i like everything organized. most of my box is kaizen foam or plastic organizers. i still havent found a great way to organize drills, taps, reamers, etc. ive been wanting to do some custom inlays for awhile. i was gonna do plastic but i can get a 1/4" aluminum sheet cut to size for half the price of the plastic. starting with a drawer for drills. this is gonna be the base layer. will have fractionals and letter drills. im either going to have a half depth layer on top of this that is on slides so i can move back and forth or i will have this layer on a pop up hinge to reveal a second layer below. the second layer will have number drills

gonna order material shortly. gonna do taps next. taps will have the drill size with them and reamers will drill size with dowel size aswell. id like to do another box for metrology and have some drawers dedicated to gage pins. do some custom inserts to hold all the pins instead of having all the plastic boxes. thats gonna be alot of holes tho.

 

[trytochaseme]

 

[Bighead38]

I know zero about CNC machining, but this thread is making me want to get into it! Badass parts!!!

Exactly how I feel. I love seeing this stuff. It’s something that fascinates me but not so easy to get into as a hobby. Keep sharing op, work is awesome to see.

 

[trytochaseme]

thanks man!

this is what im thinking the top sliding layer with number drills will look like. got material ordered for both

 

[trytochaseme]

heres the finished part of the one i posted last week. goes on a diamond cable mining rig.

heres full layout that im thinking off for drill drawer.

ordered these short rails for the second level

 

[mowkep]

Nice work. If you are ever interested in magnesium tooling plate, let me know. I have a bunch of plates I'm looking to sell.

 

[trytochaseme]

Nice work. If you are ever interested in magnesium tooling plate, let me know. I have a bunch of plates I'm looking to sell.

what size?

 

[mowkep]

I have thicknesses from 1/4 to 1/2 to 1 inch. They are generally in 6 or 6 1/2 widths. Lengths vary from 6 to almost 60 inches. It is overstock on a job that has slowed to a crawl.

 

[bullnerd]

Those drawer glides are so cute! lol!

 

[trytochaseme]

Those drawer glides are so cute! lol!

right its adorable!

heres my main box/ desk. as with everything else ive modifed it a bit. its 2 kennedys with a plate bolting them together underneath. ignore how messy it is right now. crazy busy at work at the moment.

yes its partway painted. need to finish it still just havent had time.

just got the second monitor mounted so need to tidy up the wiring on it. also want to machine a new mounting plate. this one is a little rough but it works for now. also have a wireless charger to mount under the work top for my phone so i can get rid of the cable

the work top is off a old metal desk. its kinda flimsy. i sprayed it with bedliner but it didnt hold up for a week. i want to replace the top with a butcher block.

I Moved my PC to inside the box. Have intake fans coming up from the bottom and the exhaust fans out the back. on my list is to machine a cutom cover for the back so it doesnt look so ghetto

you can see my power and air in and out. power on the inside is just a power strip. air on the inside has a regular and an oiler. one of the air lines on the side is oiled and one isnt. use the oiled one for air tools obviously but since the milwaukee cordless 90 grinder i have barely touched air tools

when i have my own shop going id like to redo this setup with nice cabinets that have ball bearings. will most likely be along a wall with quite a few cabinets but still have built in power, air and PC. you can see the 2 husky cabinets in the background those are what i keep most of my drills and such type of tooling along with bolts and other varuous things. want to get them organized really nice and have them dialed.

 

[gte718p]

Interesting setup, but why does your desk have an airline?

 

[bullnerd]

Very cool Little work station!

Butcher block would be sweet! I'm not a fan of thin metal tops.

I like a bench that goes thud, not tink! lol!

Love seeing all the fadals lined up, brings back some good memories.

 

[trytochaseme]

Got the bottom done. Engraving isn't to great but overall pretty stoked

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[Bigblue&Goldie]

Cool!

 

[bullnerd]

For a cheap and dirty way to show the engraving, jam a black (or your favorite color) crayon in there and wipe it off with a rag.

 

[90roadster]

Got the bottom done. Engraving isn't to great but overall pretty stoked

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Wow, great job! Makes me miss having the Haas TM1 at my disposal

 

[Kevin54]

First shot at the custom linkage didn't go well. First op went good then second op went horribly

Ended up crashing my brand new sandvik body and tip into the vise and both are shot. So pissed at myself

The one good news is I got some really good deals on some new sandvik tools off eBay. Will be on this week. Got a a couple thousand bucks worth of stuff for a couple hundred so very stoked on that.

The linkage is going thru a new makeover as we realized we needed to make some changes anyways

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Nice work for sure. If you don't mind a little bit of criticism.....instead of going from front to back on the bridge and going up and over, reprogram the bridge and go from one side over top to the other side using a 1/4" ball nose at .010 passes at high speed and feed. It will leave you with a way smoother surface. And on some of your other parts where your end mill is leaving surface marks, you can use flycutters. Get a set of three, small, medium, and large. Take a stone and put a slight radius on the tip of the cutter. Never use a 0.000 radius cutter, but just break the tip with the stone. Set the diameter of the tool you need on a comparator to cut the most surface you can. On your part leave about .005-.010 surface area to clean up. It will make a primo looking part, guaranteed. I've been a tool & die maker for over 30 years. One thing I found out is that the better a part looks, the more satisfied a customer will be. Again, I'm not busting your balls. You do great work, just refine it a little bit. It will make you stand out among others. One other thing.....always tru to do your machining where you don't have to vise up something that can spring and move. I see that you have an adjustable screw jack between your side bars in the vise, but not on the other side. Even the short side that you think won't flex, will flex. Of everyone that I have ever trained, I have always told them to become one with the metal. Learn what it will do when it heats up, when it cools down.....understand it. Even a 1" carbide endmill will flex and pull metal. Always leave a .005-.010 finish cut. And if your aluminum is warm, let it cool before the finish cut. Always keep in your mind that you have to work in tenths instead of thousands and you will turn out great parts every time. Practice things that way, and after a few parts, it won't take any longer than the way you're doing it now, and most times will take a shorter cycle time. Learn the metal, learn the cutter characteristics in your mind, and learn the speeds and feeds. With aluminum, instead of hogging a lot of your features, you can speed up the cutter, take smaller bites, and jump up your feed to balance out.

 

[trytochaseme]

Nice work for sure. If you don't mind a little bit of criticism.....instead of going from front to back on the bridge and going up and over, reprogram the bridge and go from one side over top to the other side using a 1/4" ball nose at .010 passes at high speed and feed. It will leave you with a way smoother surface. And on some of your other parts where your end mill is leaving surface marks, you can use flycutters. Get a set of three, small, medium, and large. Take a stone and put a slight radius on the tip of the cutter. Never use a 0.000 radius cutter, but just break the tip with the stone. Set the diameter of the tool you need on a comparator to cut the most surface you can. On your part leave about .005-.010 surface area to clean up. It will make a primo looking part, guaranteed. I've been a tool & die maker for over 30 years. One thing I found out is that the better a part looks, the more satisfied a customer will be. Again, I'm not busting your balls. You do great work, just refine it a little bit. It will make you stand out among others.

thanks for the tips. i actually did reprogram my finish pass on that link. im not sure why i was front to back on the top as its not how i normally do it. honestly i never have used a fly cutter in a CNC. i have one i use in the bridgeport sometimes but ill have to look into getting some for the CNC. Criticism is always appreciated. never gonna get better without it

 

[trytochaseme]

For a cheap and dirty way to show the engraving, jam a black (or your favorite color) crayon in there and wipe it off with a rag.

ahh never thought of crayon. i usually use a sharpie but i like that idea, ill give it a shot thanks!

 

[kazlx]

Black super glue works well too with a needle applicator. Starbond Adhesives on Amazon is cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUVAVC0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[trytochaseme]

gonna order some of that super glue!

here's a few pics of the drawer in progress. gonna order another piece for taps this week.

 

[bullnerd]

Nice.

 

[trytochaseme]

ended up installing this a little differently but forgot to take pics,I'll get some tomorrow. for now here it is fresh off the mill.

 

[fordkid88]

ended up installing this a little differently but forgot to take pics,I'll get some tomorrow. for now here it is fresh off the mill.

I think you should send me those trays so i can do some serious testing on them over the next 30 years and then ill send them back with my notes.

 

[trytochaseme]

tempting offer! haha

here it is in the drawer all the way back

pulled forward

this is how i ended up doing it without the slides. just took some scrap and made a line with a 1/4" ballnose. works surprisingly well

 

[trytochaseme]

been needing to make a fan cover for my box pretty bad. 2400 holes later

yea thats an embarassing look. not my best work

much better

Picked up an SR Torque wrench for er20 nuts.

going to pick up a bigger one for ER32 collets but need an adapter so figured id make my own.

you can see it in the above pics but started stripping my top. idk why i thought bed liner would work. going to strip it down keep it raw. also going to just do my whole box in black bedliner. will match my huskys that have that look.

heres a project at work im doing right now. Not sure if anyone here is familiar with Oliver wood working tools from the 1900s. They were orginally made here in Grand Rapids and although out of business there is a company that bought the rights for all the parts and supplies replacement parts for the old Oliver machines. We do pretty much all the machining for them and i got some pretty funky parts that i believe are for a massive planar. they gave us all the older fixtures from 50 years ago. Im figuring out how the fixtures were used and modifying them to work for us. little bit fun and a little but a pita.

 

[trytochaseme]

ended up making a direct mount one for er16 collets aswell. its just a 1" box end. waiting for woodruff cutter to get here to do the slots to mount them. didnt have one small enough

 

[trytochaseme]

finally got back to the linkage for a Rocky Mountain Alitude. heres the bottom done.

theres room for improvement but overall happy with it. this is most likely going to be a test piece to see what other changes need to be made. i also want to add a brace on the other side to give it some more strength but only going to go thru with that once i know this one will work.

Roughed it out with my 1.5" Sandik R790. im loving this thing

finished it with this E10 3 flute. its 10mm dia and a 3mm CR. Im also super happy with this thing on the carbide shank

 

[bullnerd]

Nice! Looks great!

And no broken tools= bonus!

The shop I worked at back in the 90s designed a laser engraving system for Sandvik to mark all the inserts. Everytime my boss would visit them he'd come back with buckets and buckets of inserts!

 

[trytochaseme]

Nice! Looks great!

And no broken tools= bonus!

The shop I worked at back in the 90s designed a laser engraving system for Sandvik to mark all the inserts. Everytime my boss would visit them he'd come back with buckets and buckets of inserts!

I'd love to get bucks of inserts, especially from sandvik! those r790 inserts are $50 a piece

so i been wanting some extra long box end wrenches for fixture clamps and some other stuff. usually use a long ratchet but sometimes can fit it in there and my wrenches arent long. was gonna get some snap on ones but work is slow so i decided to just make my own. wasnt really too focused on them and wasnt concerned about them being perfect so they have some mistakes. one of the i had the endmill get sucked in a corner and basically left no wall thickness and it bend once i tried to use it so i need to remake that one. the other one tho i put all my weight on and felt very sturdy. had a little flex but i wont be putting a cheater bar or anything on it so it will be fine.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

You need to quit posting, I'm getting some bad envy! I'm really liking the tools and organizers you're cranking out.

 

[trytochaseme]

You need to quit posting, I'm getting some bad envy! I'm really liking the tools and organizers you're cranking out.

ha thankyou! I might have another interesting tool tomorrow. material for more drawers should be here tomorrow as well

 

[trytochaseme]

Sooo... Yea..

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