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Clausing 5400 Lathe Restoration

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Cahark

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Finished up the "body panels" on the machine. They still need a bit of adjustment, but they turned out pretty good. 7e218e15902443883cee069424d664f9.jpg
We were also able to install all of the wiring except for the motor itself. The insulation on the wire even brightened up a bit with a wipedown of spirits.
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I'm not planning on reprinting the under drive. I'm just going to thoroughly clean it and do a complete readjustment. It came apart pretty easily, but I haven't ran it through the parts washer yet.
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If all goes well, Sunday will be the day


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Cahark

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Yesterday was underdrive and clutch day. I had expected to have everything cleaned and installed by around 2-3. Unfortunately everything I did yesterday seemed to come with hiccups.

The grease,dirt, and funk seemed to come off of the components of the underdrive very easily with kerosine and a scrub brush.
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I took the clutch completely apart. It has never functioned properly despite countless adjustments. In the past I've just tightened the heck out of it, and ran it always engaged.
When I removed the pulley housing from the clutch, I found a heavy sticky oil spread throughout the clutch plates. Not only was this letting the plates slip, it was soo heavy and sticky, it kept everything from moving freely. Therefore.... no full engagement, or disengagement.
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I took out each plate, cleaned, and laid them out in order. I stoned them top and bottom, then scuffed the surface with 220 emery to break the glaze. After cleaning all of the other components, I was able to remove the old bearings, and install the new ones. I probably wouldn't of tackled that task without having an arbor press at home. They were truly a bear to get in and out.
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The pulley on my machine had a nasty crud built up in the grooves where the vee belts sit. It was almost like concrete! I chipped out what I could, but there was still a heavy layer of rust under the crud. Best case to fix this would be to put the pulley in the lathe and hit the buggered up faces with a wire brush and a file to flatten them out. Unfortunatly I'm rebuilding my home lathe so I was not able to do this. I ended up making an arbor out of a milling stud set, and a couple 2"round plates that I made washers out of. This allowed me to mount the arbor in my Bridgeport. It took a few mins, but I indicated everything in so it ran concentric, and filed away. It worked great.
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I sprayed everything down with brake cleaner and reassembled the clutch. I filed off the high spots from years past on the shaft, and slid all the parts back on. Then I lubricated the fingers of the clutch. Now it moves as it should. It engages in disengages properly. All it needed was a good cleaning.
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At that point I moved on to reinstalling the under drive. It's really crammed in there. After a little work and confusion I think I have it in there as the factory intended. I took some pictures before hand, but according to the drawings that were provided by Clausing, there are a few items that don't look just right. If anyone could set me up with some detailed pictures of the under drive on a Clausing 5400 series lathe, I would really appreciate it.
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If all goes well, I should be able to have the lathe adjusted and operational this evening. That still leaves a few things like leveling the machine, cleaning up the chucks, and cleaning the badges


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Cahark

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I would say roughly 60. I'm only working on it in the evenings and the weekends. Truly it could be done faster, but I tend to nit pick.


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Cahark

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She lives! Purrs like a kitten. I was able to find this stock picture to verify that I had everything located as it should.
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I still have to work on the badges and my chucks, but I couldn't help myself to make a few chips after I got it running.
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JimH74

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I've been following your progress right along, and I must say I've really enjoyed watching you bring her back to her glory! Thanks!
 

cptn_zippy

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This has been one of my most watched threads on GJ - I look for it every time I log on. Really amazing work. Did some of the issues that you were having (i.e. Surface finish) get corrected with your work?

J
 
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Cahark

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I've been following your progress right along, and I must say I've really enjoyed watching you bring her back to her glory! Thanks!


Thank you very much. Stay tuned, the next few days I will be working on the finishing touches and leveling the machine




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This has been one of my most watched threads on GJ - I look for it every time I log on. Really amazing work. Did some of the issues that you were having (i.e. Surface finish) get corrected with your work?

J


far it looks like I have solved all of my problems. I turned a small shaft last night. Surface finish looked good, sizes were spot on, and almost zero taper. The clutch worked great up until it got warm. I think I need to back off the adjustment an 1/8th of a turn or so.



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When I woke up this morning I realized I made a boneheaded mistake. With all of my attention on the underdrive, I never actually tightened the bolts from the bed of the lathe to the cabinet. I feel like a real idiot. I will solve this when I get home.


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MBfreak

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Great job.

Hope you get lots of fun jobs done with the lathe.

When working on restoration jobs, the fast availability of a lathe provides great peace of mind!

Kudus

Ola
 
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Cahark

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Great job.



Hope you get lots of fun jobs done with the lathe.



When working on restoration jobs, the fast availability of a lathe provides great peace of mind!



Kudus



Ola



It really does give me peace of mind, It would have been nice to have an extra lathe at the house while I was working on this lathe lol.


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Cahark

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Started the evening off fixing my mistake. In case you missed it, I completely forgot to tighten the bolts that go from the bed to the cabinet during my test cuts. I used my Starrett level to get all of the twist out of the machine as I locked down the bed.
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The level truly belongs to my father. He's been a machinist since he started his apprenticeship in high school. I think I'm getting this story right...... Dad had wanted to be an auto mechanic. When the time came to enroll in the JVS, my grandfather must have thought that the mechanic thing was a phase or something and he told my dad to go to their neighbors house and talk to him about what he did. I cant remember for sure but I think his name was ED, and he had been a toolmaker since his days in the service. Long story short, dad became interested in tool and die and decided to go to school for it.
Fast forward 30ish years. We were moving my grandmother a state away so she could be closer to the rest of the family. We were about to leave and here comes Ed (probably in his 80's) with a wooden box. I remember he handed it to dad and told him he wanted him to have it. They both got a bit choked up. I could tell my father really appreciated the gesture.
Fast forward another 8-10 years or so, and I've been lucky enough to use that level on all of the equipment I have set up.
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Anyways enough rambling.
Next up was cleaning the four jaw I have lying around. It's been pretty beaten up, and had a varnish like substance along with a film of rust all over it.
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First I removed the retainers for the adjustment screws. You need to tap them out from the face side with a brass punch
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Once they are removed, you can take out the screws. At this point everything needs to be scrubbed in the parts washer
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Like most machinists, I sometimes use the face of the chuck to help line up parts. In order for this to work, the face needs to be free of burrs and nicks. Unfortunatly this chuck looks like it rolled down a bowling alley and hit the pins....and then somebody beat it with a hammer. I first flat filed All of the nasty buggers, then went back with a stone. I finished with a touch of scotch brite.
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Next was to finish machining the mounting plate. I needed to finish the OD so it could register tightly inside the ID on the back of the chuck, and face the front so it would run true without wobble.
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Next was to clamp the backplate to the chuck and transfer punch the holes. Yes, I could have plotted out the locations but sometimes you just need to keep it simple
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Next I center drilled the ***** marks
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Then I picked out a letter U drill so I could prepare for the 7/16-14 tapped holes. Keep in mind, the plate is not clamped, I'm using the mill as a drill press.
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Last was to tap the holes. I'm pretty quick with an indicator so I decided to pick each one up and power tap it. You could tap them by hand also, that's just what I decided to do.
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After everything was cleaned and oiled, I proceeded to re assemble the chuck. The retainers had a clip that sits in a groove in the bored hole. I decided to use a hose clamp as a ring compressor to make it easier to install them. It worked great.
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Once everything was installed, it really turned out nice. It's not going to win any beauty contests, but all I care about is a properly functioning chuck. I may go back to trying to work out the rust staining at a later time, but for now I'm happy

I will probably work on my 3 jaw Wednesday.




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larry_g

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396107e87fd481cdfa677223705f080d.jpg

I'm not sure if this is a staged photo but I've never assumed that the tops of the V-ways are a machined surface suitable for using to level the machine.

I am a bit in awe of the job your doing on this machine, It has turned out beautiful.

lg
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larry4406

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Excellent job on the photo's and detail!

Why did you have to machine the chuck mounting plate? Is this a new chuck to the machine being setup for the first time?
 
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Cahark

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396107e87fd481cdfa677223705f080d.jpg

I'm not sure if this is a staged photo but I've never assumed that the tops of the V-ways are a machined surface suitable for using to level the machine.

I am a bit in awe of the job your doing on this machine, It has turned out beautiful.

lg
no neat sig line


I questioned this method myself. I agree with you that this is odd, and Normally I would have placed 1-2-3 blocks on the flat parts of the ways and placed the level across them.
In this case the manual specified that I lay that level directly on top of the vees.
Tonight when I get home I will measure with 123 blocks across the flat ways and see if there is any difference between the two readings.
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Cahark

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Excellent job on the photo's and detail!

Why did you have to machine the chuck mounting plate? Is this a new chuck to the machine being setup for the first time?



This Chuck came with the machine. It had a beaten up back plate on it already, but it didn't match the interface needed for this machine. My machine needs a 2 1/4-8 thread with a 2.260" bore. Most chucks can be mounted to a variety of different machines by using different backing plates. In most cases you would buy them semi finished, then finish them at home. Or you could machine one from a solid.

I will try to get some better pictures of how everything mounts.
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Cahark

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Worked on the three jaw tonight. 5a36dc3485244ae82f45a4ad3503148c.jpg
At the time that I purchased it, I didn't know the brand but the price was right. I started cleaning it up and I realized that it was a bison! I was very pleased to find this out.
I started to take it apart to clean it out when I began to realize that this chuck was never used. It had a hefty layer of funk and surface rust on it, but it cleaned right up.
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I also realized that I'm going to have to make some sort of spacer for my backing plate if I'm going to get this to work. It originally had some sort of odd interface that I Hadn't ran into before. Regardless, I should be able to make something work.

More Thursday!


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Cahark

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Took a couple days off in the garage unexpectedly. Just wasn't feeling it LOL.

Today the lathe is going to sit in it's home and get permanently anchored. I'm currently doing a little bit of hack and whack work on the mill to get all of my spacers for the feet to the proper height before I install the anchors.

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larry_g

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I questioned this method myself. I agree with you that this is odd, and Normally I would have placed 1-2-3 blocks on the flat parts of the ways and placed the level across them.
In this case the manual specified that I lay that level directly on top of the vees.
Tonight when I get home I will measure with 123 blocks across the flat ways and see if there is any difference between the two readings.



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Ok then, Like I said in my post above, assumed, so the book is the rule. Still a good looking job you've done.

lg
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Cahark

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Ok then, Like I said in my post above, assumed, so the book is the rule. Still a good looking job you've done.



lg

no neatsig line



Thanks a lot! True leveling will be this afternoon


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Cahark

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Yesterday was decently productive. I was able to get the lathe mounted to the ground. My hope was that mounting it on the ground would help with the slight vibration that I was having. Although it did help, it didn't help near as much as I had expected. Upon further inspection it looks like I have vibration coming from the under Drive unit. All of the belts are nicely aligned however I think I have some tension issues because I'm not getting full range on the variable speed.

I felt my self getting a little antsy so I decided to take a break from that and start rough turning the backing plate for my three jaw Chuck. The lathe operates fine and holds tolerances exactly as I expected. I was able to hold less than .0004" on the mounting diameter for the backing plate. For nearly all of the work I'm doing at home I would consider that almost perfect.
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I was able to take .100 per pass at .011 per rev. It's definitely a stout machine for its size.

Today I am hanging a few new lights in the garage and mounting the door on the lathe. After that I'm going to try to finish the chuck mounting plate, and sort out the slight vibration.

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The shop is really starting to come together. It's taken me about four years to get here, but it's been totally worth it.

Next up I will be working on badges and coming up with a list of cross-reference bearings and belts so people in the future are able to find them easier.

Tags for people who need information on this style of lathe in the future.
Clausing 5300 5400 5419 5448 12" 12x24





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ToddW

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Coming along great! I've been at getting my stuff cleaned, organized, and in use for over 4 years so don't feel bad!!
 
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Cahark

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I know I keep saying that I'm going to put the door on and install the badges, but my main concern is operation at this point.

Yesterday, I hung a few lights. I had concidered getting a task light for the machine, but I figured this would be good for the garage as a whole and it would be more even light.
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Today's job was finishing the backing plate for the three jaw.
I started finishing all of the required dimensions. 57ed241f9da91c3cf288e577859fd112.jpg
Next I installed transfer screws into the chuck. Make sure that they are all at the same height when you go to give everything a tap
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After the location is transferred, use a punch to pick up the ***** marks and make them big enough so the center drill will pick them up. Remember. Transfer screws are for transferring locations, not for center punching. Don't wear them out doing tasks that aren't expected of them.

Next was center drill and drilling. At that point I bolted what I had together. Since the outside rim was a bit thinner than what I would have liked, I set up the chuck and the backing plate to add in a few more screws towards the inside of the chuck.

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Once the machining was completed, I cleaned everything thouroghly. I greased and oiled the chuck as the manufacturer suggested. Grease on the internals, oil on the scroll and jaw grooves.
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Last, I put everything together and installed it in the lathe. I grabbed a 1/2 dowel pin and chucked it up to check the runout. It came out to .0012 TIR. Certainly not perfect, but more than fine for home work. If I need anything closer than that, I will install the four jaw.
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MBfreak

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Great job, really nice.
I was thinking about disassembling, cleaning and truegrinding the chuck on our Profila 1 K 62 soviet 1972 lathe.
Was standing unused in a maritime repair shop from 1992 aound, before that used by skilled machinists making one offs.
It is a 12" chuck. Before tearing into it I stuck a precision ground hardened steel dowel, dia 50 mm, length 600 mm and run a microcator on it.
Close up to the chuck total runout was 0,004 mm and 300 mm out it was 0,007 mm.
Turned the dowel in several positions in the jaws. Perfect.

So I chickened out and did not dare to overhaul it. Will polish it up in place, there is some rust marks on the outer dia, but face, the short DIN nose mounting part and jaws are probably as good as news.

Thanks to the guys who used it from 1972 to 1992!

Ola
 

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Cahark

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Dayton,Oh
Great job, really nice.

I was thinking about disassembling, cleaning and truegrinding the chuck on our Profila 1 K 62 soviet 1972 lathe.

Was standing unused in a maritime repair shop from 1992 aound, before that used by skilled machinists making one offs.

It is a 12" chuck. Before tearing into it I stuck a precision ground hardened steel dowel, dia 50 mm, length 600 mm and run a microcator on it.

Close up to the chuck total runout was 0,004 mm and 300 mm out it was 0,007 mm.

Turned the dowel in several positions in the jaws. Perfect.



So I chickened out and did not dare to overhaul it. Will polish it up in place, there is some rust marks on the outer dia, but face, the short DIN nose mounting part and jaws are probably as good as news.



Thanks to the guys who used it from 1972 to 1992!



Ola



Jeez. .004mm out of a chuck like that is impressive. I was happy with .0012in but you are over 6 times closer than that!


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Cahark

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Dayton,Oh
Had my friend over and he Finally got that door on today. I have to admit, it really brings it together. (I think he got tired of me putting it off. )
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I also worked on aligning the motor a little better. I would like to take a moment to stress how important this is. By adjusting the motor about one degree, I cut my vibration in half. Tweaking it in slightly more almost eliminated all vibration. My surface finish went from good to great.
After I got everything snugged and adjusted, I moved on to loosening up the clutch a bit. It works like a champ now.
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This weekend I'm hoping to work on the badges and make a few inserts for the drawers.
 

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Cahark

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Got my rear panel made up today. They old one was long gone, which let mice and dust make their homes in the underdrive unit. In the rear of the panel, I attached some deadening mat to make sure there wouldn't be any vibration.
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Next up was the wipers. They went on well except for the holes not being tapped deep enough. Easy fix.
I then checked on the belt tension. Over the past week the 3 belts that go to the headstock became pretty loose. I should have checked on them yesterday, but I wasn't thinking
After I took care of the nessesities, I cleaned out the chip pan and laid in a new cookie sheet. Perfect size for a chip pan.
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Off topic, I even got around to putting my decimal chart in a poster board frame. It keeps ripping and cracking in the wind while the garage door is open.
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Cahark

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Today is what I am guessing will be the last update on the lathe. (I will still be posting out bearing info and belt info when I get it all together) I would like to say thank you to everyone who subscribed and followed this pain in The **** of a restoration that I have taken on. I enjoyed keeping all of you updated and I will plan on doing this for some more of my projects.

I would also like to ask if anyone has a steady, or follower rest that may work for this machine. It does not have to be an exact match. I am more than willing to machine an adapter to make it work.

Today I worked on the badges. I can't say that they turned out as beautifully as I had pictured them in my mind. But I feel that I was really able to clean them up nicely. I guess one could consider them a "working restoration"
Here are a few before pics
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They were pretty rough, and had a lot of nicks and dings on them. I wasn't able to do anything with that aspect of them. But I do feel that I was able to brighten them up a bit.
I started by cleaning each individual badge. Then I moved onto filing off all of the high spots and portions that had been swedged by stray tools and negligence.
I also proceeded to sand and polish all of the letters themselves. This way it would be easier to remove the paint after I sprayed them. I sprayed them with rust oleum enamel paints, then bake them in the oven at 225f for about an hour. At this point I was able to Sand off the majority of the paint from the letters with some 400 grit sand paper on my surface plate. Make sure to keep them flat as you are sanding. Next I use an X-Acto knife to chip off the areas where the sandpaper missed. After that was completed I've sprayed the badges with crystal clear enamel and baked that for one hour at 225.
I wish they truly had turned out better but I can deal with this.
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The only thing left to do is to order some new oilers for the spindle bearings. The caps had been ripped off by the previous owner at one point So I have some tape over top of them for the moment.
This is been a lot of fun for me and I can't wait to start on the next project. Thanks again guys.
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Cahark

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Dayton,Oh
Thank you very much. I do aim for perfection.

One last note I would like to also mention. When you go to assemble the under Drive unit with a variable speed belts. They need to run much looser than you would normally expect a belt run to ensure minimal vibration. I started the Lathe and let it run while I loosened the tensioner screws. At that point I slightly pride up on the motor to relieve some of the tension until the variable drive section ran steady and true.

Don't ask me how I came to this conclusion. It was a pain.



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NedNorton

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Jul 14, 2012
Messages
608
Location
Colorado, USA
Just wanted to chime in here and give you a big thumbs up. I've been following along since the start and your work is excellent! I'm looking forward to seeing what you have on the schedule next.

Cheers,
Chris
 
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Cahark

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Sep 28, 2016
Messages
340
Location
Dayton,Oh
I put together a list of information for those of you who may find it useful in the future. Information on the lathe seems to be scarce compared to some of the other models.

Clausing model 5448, serial 001934. Shipped May 31, 1960

-3 main drive belts
Clausing number- 051-014
Original- 13595
Replacement- Gates 7597

-Upper variable speed belt
Clausing number- 051-021
Original- RVS 506 15
Replacement- 1626V293

-lower variable speed belt
Clausing number- 051-022
Original- RVS 505 09
Replacement- 1626V262

Clutch shaft bearings x4
Clausing number- 044-007
Original-?
Replacement- Nachi 6005-2nse9c3bxmm

Spindle bearings
Clausing number- 045-001
Original- Timken 369A and 368A
outer race 362B
Replacement - Timken 369A, 368A, and two 362B races.

Bearings for taper attachment, ideler pulley under headstock, and quick change gear box

Clausing numbers (multiple) 50-18 , 044-018
Original- Fafnir 202 KDD5
Replacement- EBC 1623 2RS

If you have any questions regarding the machine please ask. Some of the items were difficult to cross reference but I was able to find matches for most of them.







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Cahark

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Messages
340
Location
Dayton,Oh
It's been a busy last few months and I would like to report that the lathe is still kicking **** the way I had hoped that it would.

My main purpose of this update is to remind everyone to make sure to readjust the headstock bearings after a few hours of use. My machine seemed to settle in after an hour or so of use. I was getting bad finishes and lots of chatter. Surprisingly I had to tighten the take up nut nearly a full turn to get it back into the proper adjustment. The only reason I could see this happening is due to parts not being fully seated during assembly.

This is been a fantastic machine so far and the restoration has inspired me to go through a few more machines in my shop.
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