pcmeiners
Well-known member
Nice hose setup, how much did they hit you up for?
Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
Lol... gacked the electricals on the pressure switch. Cheezie plastic
over tightened screws had me get a new one. Got it all setup and 1st run.
Im waiting for a CNC so I might have went beyond overkill on this.
A good time waster in the meantime. Pics to follow this weekend
Q on the hour meter. I found one for 240v on amazon, I had points:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCEBOJJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
One guy writes...
"what needs to be done is to run one wire from the gauge to a hot source and the other wire to another hot. To elaborate, my compressor is run with a 10 gauge cord that has three wires inside it: two hots and a ground. You hook up the gauge to the two hots on the load side of the pressure switch or at the motor itself. There is no connection to ground. It doesn't heat the wire or trip the breaker. It just works."
What size wire is acceptable?
I'll just place each wire in along with each motor wire?
It's the Condor switch
https://www.condor-usa.com/product-11QC2EART
over tightened screws had me get a new one. Got it all setup and 1st run.
Im waiting for a CNC so I might have went beyond overkill on this.
A good time waster in the meantime. Pics to follow this weekend
Q on the hour meter. I found one for 240v on amazon, I had points:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCEBOJJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
One guy writes...
"what needs to be done is to run one wire from the gauge to a hot source and the other wire to another hot. To elaborate, my compressor is run with a 10 gauge cord that has three wires inside it: two hots and a ground. You hook up the gauge to the two hots on the load side of the pressure switch or at the motor itself. There is no connection to ground. It doesn't heat the wire or trip the breaker. It just works."
What size wire is acceptable?
I'll just place each wire in along with each motor wire?
It's the Condor switch
https://www.condor-usa.com/product-11QC2EART
redmondjp
Well-known member
For that 240VAC hourmeter, that is correct - you put the hourmeter in parallel with the motor leads L1 and L2 downstream of the pressure switch or starter/contactor. No connection to either a neutral or a ground.
redmondjp
Well-known member
The hourmeter uses a tiny amount of current - a few milliamps most likely so a 30 gauge wire would work fine. I would use whatever wire you have that has the proper voltage rating. 16 or 18 ga MTW (Machine Tool Wire) would be what I would use.
TRWham
Well-known member
It is true that the current consumed is tiny, but Table 430.72(B) provides the guidance for sizing motor control circuit wires. If the control wires are only protected by the circuit breaker feeding the compressor, then it probably needs to be either 14 or 12 AWG for a typical 5 or 7.5 hp home shop compressor.
Dentaltec
Well-known member
Nice little toy
Nice little toy
I'll have a large Creme soda. Where does the straw come out?
Ice on the side? How many cavities or root canals did that go for?
Dentaltec
Well-known member
This compressor runs 3 5axis cad cam mills. Air so pure I can almost pump it into a tank and breath it 
Just picked up my first compressor at an auction this past Saturday! Says it's a 3.5 hp 20 gallon that will do 6.4 cfm at 90 psi. Haven't used it for much other than blowing stuff off and filling tires, but for $130 I was happy.
Changed the oil and cleaned it up a bit since this picture, and fabbed up a hook to mount on my workbench for the air hose.
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My brother in law gave me the exact same compressor. I love it!
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jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Just wrapped up a Rapidair install. My trusty Husky/Campbell feeds a nice Parker regulator I got (....one of those relieving ones). That feeds an air block that connects to the Fastpipe system, and also will provide air to my scissor lift via the oiler attached to the side.
I had hoses ordered for the tank connections and to feed the hose reel. From day one the system is air tight and holds a steady 140 psi for days with all cutoff valves open....that includes the coiled air whip I keep by the bench and that HF reel. Highly recommend the Rapidair gear. Up next is an auto-vent to clear water out of the tank.
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I had hoses ordered for the tank connections and to feed the hose reel. From day one the system is air tight and holds a steady 140 psi for days with all cutoff valves open....that includes the coiled air whip I keep by the bench and that HF reel. Highly recommend the Rapidair gear. Up next is an auto-vent to clear water out of the tank.
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I picked up an air receiver which was being used at a carpet factory in north GA. Tank is Rated at 200 PSI, came with inspection papers, hi-volume safety valve, and was clean on the inside.
I’ve been looking for a standing tank for my old revision 3 Quincy 210 to sit on. I had it rigged up on a horizontal craftsman 30 gal tank but that tank went to ****. It got a pinhole leak away from the drain hole (craftsman tank was too far gone when I bought it and just kept rusting). Because of my distain for all things rust, I chose to do several coats on the inside of this tank with some Rustoleum enamel (1qt primer used, and 1.5 qt enamel) 5 coats of paint over the course of a week. Then I let it air out for about 2 weeks baking in my garage in the TN heat.
(Insert pic of painted inside here)
I’ve got the pump, motor, and cooler mounted up, still working out how I’m going to do the plumbing. I’m trying to make it look nicer than just a hodgepodge of pipe and wires, so I’m taking my time with it; just a bit of time every couple days after work when I can.
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I’ve been looking for a standing tank for my old revision 3 Quincy 210 to sit on. I had it rigged up on a horizontal craftsman 30 gal tank but that tank went to ****. It got a pinhole leak away from the drain hole (craftsman tank was too far gone when I bought it and just kept rusting). Because of my distain for all things rust, I chose to do several coats on the inside of this tank with some Rustoleum enamel (1qt primer used, and 1.5 qt enamel) 5 coats of paint over the course of a week. Then I let it air out for about 2 weeks baking in my garage in the TN heat.
(Insert pic of painted inside here)
I’ve got the pump, motor, and cooler mounted up, still working out how I’m going to do the plumbing. I’m trying to make it look nicer than just a hodgepodge of pipe and wires, so I’m taking my time with it; just a bit of time every couple days after work when I can.
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smalltown
Well-known member
Thague90 looking good !
May Pop
Well-known member
Looks like a real nice start on your project. I like your tank rolling setup too!
You cant beat a slow running, pressure lubed compressor.
You cant beat a slow running, pressure lubed compressor.
Paperman
Well-known member
bsaint
Well-known member
Thats my kind of compressor. About 500 hp?
dkmc
Well-known member
Paperman 2000 CFM at 120 PSI. :thumbup:[/QUOTE said:YOU win !!
Working on some industrial equipment peaked my interest in automating the controls on a compressor. On and off just isn’t good enough for me anymore. So while laid up on the couch with a hamstring tear, I came up with this.
I don’t know much about how to draw this stuff, basically just what I found on google pictures, so forgive the crudity/mistakes.
Everything is powered from the breaker box. Line power will also come in as a signal from the light switch (overhead light circuit). This way it will run when I’m there and shut off (mostly) while I’m gone.
My idea is to use a digital pressure switch with 2 outputs to control the compressor, cooler fan, and a head pressure relief valve on one output. The tank drain will be an open/closed valve of some sort with a timer circuit on output 2.
Output 2 won’t come on untill the compressor cycles to full pressure, and will latch the power for the drain timer untill the tank pressure drops below a certain amount. This way the tank will continue to drain while I’m gone and give the compressed air time to condense... and drain.
When I turn on the lights again, the compressor won’t run untill I hit the start button which will turn on the first contractor and the 24v power supply for the relays and stuff.
So... whatcha think?
Also, this is what it looks like put together. Cable management needs work, but I’m learning.
Still figuring out how I’m going to attach it, but this spot looks promising. Right under the cooler/fan.
I don’t know much about how to draw this stuff, basically just what I found on google pictures, so forgive the crudity/mistakes.
Everything is powered from the breaker box. Line power will also come in as a signal from the light switch (overhead light circuit). This way it will run when I’m there and shut off (mostly) while I’m gone.
My idea is to use a digital pressure switch with 2 outputs to control the compressor, cooler fan, and a head pressure relief valve on one output. The tank drain will be an open/closed valve of some sort with a timer circuit on output 2.
Output 2 won’t come on untill the compressor cycles to full pressure, and will latch the power for the drain timer untill the tank pressure drops below a certain amount. This way the tank will continue to drain while I’m gone and give the compressed air time to condense... and drain.
When I turn on the lights again, the compressor won’t run untill I hit the start button which will turn on the first contractor and the 24v power supply for the relays and stuff.
So... whatcha think?
Also, this is what it looks like put together. Cable management needs work, but I’m learning.
Still figuring out how I’m going to attach it, but this spot looks promising. Right under the cooler/fan.
dkmc
Well-known member
I find such over complication totally unnecessary, interesting, and just plain cool.
Hope you're adding some LED digital pressure and temp. displays...
You should also consider a VFD for soft starts and slow cool down ramping.
Hope you're adding some LED digital pressure and temp. displays...
You should also consider a VFD for soft starts and slow cool down ramping.
Xicaque
Well-known member
Working on some industrial equipment peaked my interest in automating the controls on a compressor. On and off just isn’t good enough for me anymore. So while laid up on the couch with a hamstring tear, I came up with this.
I don’t know much about how to draw this stuff, basically just what I found on google pictures, so forgive the crudity/mistakes.
Everything is powered from the breaker box. Line power will also come in as a signal from the light switch (overhead light circuit). This way it will run when I’m there and shut off (mostly) while I’m gone.
My idea is to use a digital pressure switch with 2 outputs to control the compressor, cooler fan, and a head pressure relief valve on one output. The tank drain will be an open/closed valve of some sort with a timer circuit on output 2.
Output 2 won’t come on untill the compressor cycles to full pressure, and will latch the power for the drain timer untill the tank pressure drops below a certain amount. This way the tank will continue to drain while I’m gone and give the compressed air time to condense... and drain.
When I turn on the lights again, the compressor won’t run untill I hit the start button which will turn on the first contractor and the 24v power supply for the relays and stuff.
So... whatcha think?
Also, this is what it looks like put together. Cable management needs work, but I’m learning.
Still figuring out how I’m going to attach it, but this spot looks promising. Right under the cooler/fan.
what cooler/fan is that you have there?
Little 5,000hp unit we have in a shed out back 
CAT G3616A4 driving Ariel KBZ/6 3-stage
Actually have 4 of these running and not exactly out back, lol. They move 300 mmscf/day of 1450 BTU NG combined.
Sorry, saw the thread title and had to show off my compression!
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CAT G3616A4 driving Ariel KBZ/6 3-stage
Actually have 4 of these running and not exactly out back, lol. They move 300 mmscf/day of 1450 BTU NG combined.
Sorry, saw the thread title and had to show off my compression!
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pancho400cid
Well-known member
Nice looking machinery! Thanks for posting.
I find such over complication totally unnecessary, interesting, and just plain cool.
Hope you're adding some LED digital pressure and temp. displays...
You should also consider a VFD for soft starts and slow cool down ramping.
Pressure will have a digital display green when within the hysteresis range and red when below the limit and input 1 turns the motor on.
I am very interested in a soft start, but I don’t understand how a VFD works. Since most of my parts have come out of the trash, I’d like to make my own if it were possible.
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I have an air cooler coil I took out of a broken air dryer that was on its way to disposal. It has its own containment and a cage for the belt operated fan. I replaced the belt pulley with a small motor from a damaged personnel fan. Only needs 100 watts to run so it does not add much to the motor circuit.
Here are a couple of shots of the setup as it sits now. As soon as I think I have it put together... I find something else I want to improve and take it apart again.
InterpreDemon
Active member
- Joined
- May 12, 2015
- Messages
- 27
FWIW, I used to do everything unnecessarily complex as well, my ample industrial junk bin a wealth of solutions chasing after nonexistent problems. As I got older I had to occasionally repair the abominations of my prior genius and often could not recall how the damned things were supposed to function in the first place, usually having to reverse engineer my own creation and then re-engineer it with a few decades of enhanced wisdom and experience, usually cutting the component count in half while doubling the reliability and preserving or increasing the functionality. For protection from future repeat performances I have also learned to put schematics in zip-lock bags and stuff them in the enclosures. In engineering, “elegance” means the simplest solution that achieves the desired result, or, as the Russians say, “better” is the enemy of “good enough”.
That being said, I see a flaw in the design... if somebody leaves the lights on the crime is doubled by leaving the compressor energized, even though if your pneumatic system is leak proof it will never cycle anyway, but one contactor coil will be wasting a quarter kilowatt hour a day for no reason, therefore my suggestion would be to add a motion detector in series with the “lights on” signal to make sure somebody is actually moving about the shop before energizing the other components of your master compressor control system. It would also fix an unaddressed input state in your system logic truth table... that of the lights being turned on but burned out. You could have a photorelay monitor the light output, but since you can’t use compressed air safely or effectively in darkness the motion detector is a higher order signal... except you might have a flashlight or night vision goggles, so I guess you need both. Bet you didn’t think of that one, huh? Another DIN mount relay or two should solve that problem, I have some motion detectors you could use from an old alarm system. I was going to use them to flush the toilet when I stepped into the bathroom just in case I had forgotten to the last time I took a dump, but I was able to reprogram an old fume detector from my boat and it both flushes the toilet and turns on the vent fan. Only six relays and timers in an 8x10 NEMA 12 enclosure...
That being said, I see a flaw in the design... if somebody leaves the lights on the crime is doubled by leaving the compressor energized, even though if your pneumatic system is leak proof it will never cycle anyway, but one contactor coil will be wasting a quarter kilowatt hour a day for no reason, therefore my suggestion would be to add a motion detector in series with the “lights on” signal to make sure somebody is actually moving about the shop before energizing the other components of your master compressor control system. It would also fix an unaddressed input state in your system logic truth table... that of the lights being turned on but burned out. You could have a photorelay monitor the light output, but since you can’t use compressed air safely or effectively in darkness the motion detector is a higher order signal... except you might have a flashlight or night vision goggles, so I guess you need both. Bet you didn’t think of that one, huh? Another DIN mount relay or two should solve that problem, I have some motion detectors you could use from an old alarm system. I was going to use them to flush the toilet when I stepped into the bathroom just in case I had forgotten to the last time I took a dump, but I was able to reprogram an old fume detector from my boat and it both flushes the toilet and turns on the vent fan. Only six relays and timers in an 8x10 NEMA 12 enclosure...
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pcmeiners
Well-known member
These cheap dual timer Omron relays are great for quick and dirty controls, they come in all voltages.....
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...+AC/DC+Programmable+Time+Delay+Relay&_sacat=0
"As I got older I had to occasionally repair the abominations of my prior genius and often could not recall how the damned things were supposed to function in the first place, usually having to reverse engineer my own creation and then re-engineer it with a few decades of enhanced wisdom and experience"
I put this together for my 325, I suffer from the same issue....
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=355778&highlight=compressor+control
If I have to repair it, it would take me an hour to understand how it works. Have a schematic but I have multiple current loops through the relay contacts, no less multiple blocking diodes to make the logic work. The tough circuit was the oil pressure circuit, the other circuits were easy.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...+AC/DC+Programmable+Time+Delay+Relay&_sacat=0
"As I got older I had to occasionally repair the abominations of my prior genius and often could not recall how the damned things were supposed to function in the first place, usually having to reverse engineer my own creation and then re-engineer it with a few decades of enhanced wisdom and experience"
I put this together for my 325, I suffer from the same issue....
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=355778&highlight=compressor+control
If I have to repair it, it would take me an hour to understand how it works. Have a schematic but I have multiple current loops through the relay contacts, no less multiple blocking diodes to make the logic work. The tough circuit was the oil pressure circuit, the other circuits were easy.
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Decided to start a new thread for my compressor to avoid thread jacking this one.
Quincy 210 ROC-3 rebuild(s)
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405817
Quincy 210 ROC-3 rebuild(s)
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405817
bsaint
Well-known member
The people at Ariel are a great group. They are so nice to deal with. How are their machines?Little 5,000hp unit we have in a shed out back
CAT G3616A4 driving Ariel KBZ/6 3-stage
Actually have 4 of these running and not exactly out back, lol. They move 300 mmscf/day of 1450 BTU NG combined.
Sorry, saw the thread title and had to show off my compression!
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Fantastic company, their compressors are the gold standard in their segment. Still a family run business.
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dkmc
Well-known member
Nice.
Like most of my projects, just one relay or sensor short of 'better'.
VERY cool.
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Scored this setup off CL earlier this year, into it all for about $550 total. 3Z181 (Champion R15 pump) with brand new 5 hp Baldor motor, and separate purchase of a 200psi 30 gal tank with 15CFM dryer mounted to it. Finally back together and heard it all run for the first time. Condensate free air from the dryer! Question - in this vid you can sort of hear the hollow sound the compressor makes somewhat intermittently. Is this something I should be concerned about? Never ran a compressor this big, or with the K&n filter (original was broken). Compressor is rated at 17.3 CFM and puts out 17.1 up to current cut off at 120 PSI. No need for 175 psi air yet for my applications. Vid -
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4bkD0uy8BVo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Pics-
Think I got all the pics and vid to work now from CPU. Any video input on the echoing noise?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4bkD0uy8BVo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Pics-
Think I got all the pics and vid to work now from CPU. Any video input on the echoing noise?
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LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scored this setup off CL earlier this year, into it all for about $550 total. 3Z181 (Champion R15 pump) with brand new 5 hp Baldor motor, and separate purchase of a 200psi 30 gal tank with 15CFM dryer mounted to it. Finally back together and heard it all run for the first time. Condensate free air from the dryer! Question - in this vid you can sort of hear the hollow sound the compressor makes somewhat intermittently. Is this something I should be concerned about? Never ran a compressor this big, or with the K&n filter (original was broken). Compressor is rated at 17.3 CFM and puts out 17.1 up to current cut off at 120 PSI. No need for 175 psi air yet for my applications. Vid -
Pics-
Also made a belt tensioner -
Used the advanced setting auto add for pics not sure why they aren't showing up ����****
imgur and Garage Journal have a few issues -
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I’ve been using the paper clip icon in the garage journal app and it’s worked as advertised.
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larry4406
Well-known member
I have an old Saylor Beall that makes a similar sound. At the flywheel end I can see the shaft moving in the axial direction from what appears to be excessive thrust clearance. When the unit is not running I can manually push/pull the flywheel fore/aft and create the same sound that occurs when running. Mine has been that way for about 30 years now.
Any details on your dryer?
Thanks. Was planning on rebuilding one of these years but good to know there shouldn't be any rush. The dryer is a Gardner Denver 15 CFM @ 100 PSI. Slightly less than the 17.1 the compressor puts out but the 8ft flex line between the compressor and dryer seems to catch a bunch of condensate in itself, so hopefully it'll keep up enough for occasional painting and sandblasting. Came with the tank and an automatic condensate drain, which is apparently another $100 part in itself, for $125. Nothing was hooked up so had to take a chance on whether it ran and the tank held pressure, so far looks good though. Spec sheet -
stratoguzzi
Member
sberry
Banned
This is me too, the first I built of anything,,, 2 x as big, 2x as heavy and cost 2x as much as it needed.