Compression - Show Off Your Compressor
- Thread starter Mikeyworks
- Start date
Got it running!!! Controls work perfect! Push button start. Pump on below 100psi, and off at 135psi. Auto drain opens for 0.5sec every 3 hours from 135psi down to 110psi and the system shuts off if the overhead light circuit is off. My cable management is pretty poor currently, but I’m planning on tightening things up once I pick a spot for everything.
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Finally setting up this Saylor Beall VT-730-60 that I've had sitting around in pieces for many years in the garage. My trusty 30 year old Craftsman 20-gal portable finally developed a pinhole in the tank bottom, and I decided to retire it. So that motivated me to get the SB going.
The VT-730-60 has the 705 two-stage pump used on bigger models, but only a 60 gallon tank and, originally, a 3hp 3ph motor. The 3hp motor ran the pump at a low 540 rpm. I just swapped out the motor for a bigger 5hp single phase Leeson with a bigger pulley, which will now spin the pump at about 800rpm.
This unit is also equipped with the aftercooler option, which uses a fan attached to the compressor motor pulley. Just have to hook up the electrical now. This location is temporary, so I'll be using a plug-in cord for now.
The VT-730-60 has the 705 two-stage pump used on bigger models, but only a 60 gallon tank and, originally, a 3hp 3ph motor. The 3hp motor ran the pump at a low 540 rpm. I just swapped out the motor for a bigger 5hp single phase Leeson with a bigger pulley, which will now spin the pump at about 800rpm.
This unit is also equipped with the aftercooler option, which uses a fan attached to the compressor motor pulley. Just have to hook up the electrical now. This location is temporary, so I'll be using a plug-in cord for now.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
"Many years"? really? Well hell, it's about time! You'll wish you did it years ago after you hear how quiet it runs.
Are you sure the pump is a 705 and not a 703 which is made to be run with a 3hp motor? The pumps look just alike other than the 703 has 4 valve caps on the head and the 705 has 5.
Saylor-Beall pumps are great units and should give you many years of service.
Are you sure the pump is a 705 and not a 703 which is made to be run with a 3hp motor? The pumps look just alike other than the 703 has 4 valve caps on the head and the 705 has 5.
Saylor-Beall pumps are great units and should give you many years of service.
Yeah, I got it about 5 years ago in pieces from a friend at work. It's a 1998 manufacture date, so it can't have been in operation for more than 15 years.
Definitely a 705 pump.
I was able to test it briefly with a cord wired directly to the motor. Let it build up to about 60psi before shutting it down. The noise is not too bad but a person would have to raise ones voice for conversation still. It is less loud than the old Craftsman (1-stage oiled piston style) but I wouldn't call it quiet. Friend that sold it to me has a 3hp SB unit with the 703 pump, and that thing is quieter as it chugs along much slower.
Eventually this is getting moved into a closet under the stairs with a door, so not worried too much about the noise level.
Definitely a 705 pump.
I was able to test it briefly with a cord wired directly to the motor. Let it build up to about 60psi before shutting it down. The noise is not too bad but a person would have to raise ones voice for conversation still. It is less loud than the old Craftsman (1-stage oiled piston style) but I wouldn't call it quiet. Friend that sold it to me has a 3hp SB unit with the 703 pump, and that thing is quieter as it chugs along much slower.
Eventually this is getting moved into a closet under the stairs with a door, so not worried too much about the noise level.
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The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Under the stairs will surely help with noise. Be sure to allow for sufficient ventilation. Looks like you're pretty tight to the wall right now...If I remember correctly, SB recommends 12" clear behind the belt guard. Even 12" makes it a bit of a challenge if you need to adjust or change the drive belts. 
The shroud is only about 1-1/2" from the wall right now. The aftercooler makes it even worse for clearance because the back half of the shroud has to slide over the front half. I had to pre-assemble it then lift the whole compressor into place near the wall with an engine crane. No choice right now until I make room in the shop.
Here is my newly assembled compressor from parts. also the stand.
https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-stand-rolling/
May Pop
Well-known member
Nice job on the cart!!!
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Sniper, definitely cool
A1970Blazer
Member
Ingersoll Rand.... 25HP 3 phase....rotary with refrigerated dryer...100 SCFM@ 125psi
ersatzs2
Well-known member
Dude, you are insane and I mean that in the nicest possible way!!!
Amazing.
Amazing.
Here is my newly assembled compressor from parts. also the stand.
https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-stand-rolling/
ersatzs2
Well-known member
Just put this Ingersoll Rand Rotary Screw compressor with Air Cooler in the classifieds.
What an amazing unit, but no use for it these days!
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415060
What an amazing unit, but no use for it these days!
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415060
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Kind of hard to sell it without a price in the ad.
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ersatzs2
Well-known member
Thanks man. I just finished it all up looks even better. https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-mods-continued/
Here she is. 99.9% done!
Build page is here. https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-mods-continued/
Thanks all.
Build page is here. https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-mods-continued/
Build page is here. https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-mods-continued/
Thanks all.
Build page is here. https://www.hyperlinks.net/air-compressor-mods-continued/
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My wife had bought me a 60 gallon compressor for a surprise present a while back. She had arranged with the vendor to have it delivered to the garage without my knowledge except someone didn't get the message and called me to schedule a delivery. I asked my wife if she knew anything about the delivery. She blew up and canceled the purchase because they spoiled the surprise.
Meanwhile, I am compressorless and thinking, "BUT MY COMPRESSOR" ???
After a few years of getting by with a 6 gallon pumpkin compressor, I found this new red-headed step-child on Craigslist for $200. 150PSI, 2HP, 29 Gal, oil splash lubricated compressor.
It is not the 60 gallon, but better than my current and should suffice for now.
Meanwhile, I am compressorless and thinking, "BUT MY COMPRESSOR" ???
After a few years of getting by with a 6 gallon pumpkin compressor, I found this new red-headed step-child on Craigslist for $200. 150PSI, 2HP, 29 Gal, oil splash lubricated compressor.
It is not the 60 gallon, but better than my current and should suffice for now.
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The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
dkmc
Well-known member
You got hosed my friend! Time to pay that "surprise"back with that diamond necklace she always wanted!
Yes, and get into a tussle with the jeweler over some minute detail at the last minute, and 'off' the deal, walk out.
mattgood65
Well-known member
this is my set up, working on plumbing shop nowdkmc
Well-known member
Steve in Mi
Well-known member
I have a couple of questions;
Do you plan to have a condensate drain on the bottom of the tank? And,
When was the last hydrostatic test done on the tank?
Looks like a nice clean installation. Servicing it could be tricky but ladders and scaffolding will help.
mattgood65
Well-known member
There’s is a drain on the tank, picture doesn’t show it
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I sold my Husky because I wanted something smaller and quieter. I did a lot of research and ended up buying this one at Northern Tool with free shipping and a $25 gift card. This is oil-free and quiet, unlike most oil-free compressors. It does everything I need it to do including powering my 1/2” air wrench.
AMCguy
Well-known member
Just picked up this little baby.
The cardboard sign said, "Compressor for sale $100. Ring doorbell."
So I did. This is what the guy showed me. A minute later it was in the back of my truck and I was nimble down the road again.
I always wanted a larger compressor, but now I have two identical little ones that I'm going to hook up in parallel.
Glenn
The cardboard sign said, "Compressor for sale $100. Ring doorbell."
So I did. This is what the guy showed me. A minute later it was in the back of my truck and I was nimble down the road again.
I always wanted a larger compressor, but now I have two identical little ones that I'm going to hook up in parallel.
Glenn
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spepin
Member
I picked up a new Quincy 60G QT54 compressor last month and have been busy tweaking it a bit. I added an aftercooler in the form of a B&M transmission cooler mounted to the rear guard with anti-vibration mounts. The pic of the cooler shows it with straight fittings installed, but I later changed them to 90* fittings. I added a tee with a pair of 1/2" ball valves; one to feed the shop air and the other to feed an assembly mounted to the front of the compressor for a second "zone" of regulated air, comprised of a Parker filter and regulator with Winters liquid filled gauges and Milton couplers for both regulated and unregulated air.
The original plumbing from the pump to the tank was in 3/8" copper. I replaced the check valve and pump fittings with 1/2" versions (I had to drill and tap an additional 1/8" NPT in the check valve neck as I could only find them in the size I required with a single port, but I need two ports for this application). Now, all plumbing between the pump and tank is 1/2" flared copper. The front mounted filter/regulator is fed with 3/8" flared copper.
Since the aftercooler does such a good job of cooling the compressed air before it enters the tank, the condensation generates a lot of water. There is a Beko Clearpoint water separator with an automatic drain between the aftercooler and tank. The fact that the color matches the Quincy blue is just a bonus.
Originally, the intake filter was threaded directly into the pump, but the copper plumbing from the pump to the aftercooler necessitated relocating it, so I installed a street elbow and ****** to position it at the front of the pump.
Out the rear ball valve is a 3/4" leader hose leading off to a Parker filter/regulator which supplies the shop air. The tee just prior to the F/R has a Milton 1/2" high flow coupler that feeds my blast cabinet (which has its own Quincy coalescing filter and regulator).
The original plumbing from the pump to the tank was in 3/8" copper. I replaced the check valve and pump fittings with 1/2" versions (I had to drill and tap an additional 1/8" NPT in the check valve neck as I could only find them in the size I required with a single port, but I need two ports for this application). Now, all plumbing between the pump and tank is 1/2" flared copper. The front mounted filter/regulator is fed with 3/8" flared copper.
Since the aftercooler does such a good job of cooling the compressed air before it enters the tank, the condensation generates a lot of water. There is a Beko Clearpoint water separator with an automatic drain between the aftercooler and tank. The fact that the color matches the Quincy blue is just a bonus.
Originally, the intake filter was threaded directly into the pump, but the copper plumbing from the pump to the aftercooler necessitated relocating it, so I installed a street elbow and ****** to position it at the front of the pump.
Out the rear ball valve is a 3/4" leader hose leading off to a Parker filter/regulator which supplies the shop air. The tee just prior to the F/R has a Milton 1/2" high flow coupler that feeds my blast cabinet (which has its own Quincy coalescing filter and regulator).
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Looks good! Are air-cooled coolers common for this application? Was just thinking that it wouldn't make much of a difference in temps, with the higher rate of flow and lower rate of heat transfer of gas vs liquid trans fluid. Interesting idea either way.
spepin
Member
Thanks! You'd be surprised how effective it is. Air exiting the pump is up to around 300*F. After the cooler, it's just above ambient temperature. That's over a 200*F drop. It does have a downside though -- when you cool air that quickly, you generate lots of water, so you need a good water separator before it enters the receiver.
Here's some more info: https://www.ecompressedair.com/library-pages/aftercoolers.aspx
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M.Guenette
New member
I'm Looking to buy a used Snap On compressor. Would you guys recommend the Snap On Brand? Any issues I should look out for? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thank Marc
Thank Marc
BCreekDave
Well-known member
Here’s a good thermographic photo of how well they do. This is a fan forced version on my compressor
At around seven minutes run time.
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Bigblockyeti
Banned
snap on doesn't make compressors so I'd find one that you're interested in and figure out who makes it, find a used one a pay 20% as much getting the same quality without the snap on sticker.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bigblockyeti, it's probably true that Snap-on doesn't MAKE compressors but they sure do sell them. Their 30-gallon portable lists for $1,905 and the 8hp screw compressor lists for $14,855 with lots in between. There's even a 1/10hp portable for $424.
https://shop.snapon.com/categories/Snap-on-Air-Compressors-(Single-Phase)/681243
Google returned this:
I agree the Snap-on brand comes with a huge bump in price and for 20% of their price you can buy a new compressor with similar specs.
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GlenC
Well-known member
Nice, I just ordered a B&M 70274 cooler for my Atlas-Copco LT.... now to decide how I want the air to flow through it.... I'm thinking about mounting it at a 45° with inlet at bottom with a Tee and long condensation collection tube with auto drain. This should keep the condensation away from the outlet to the tank. Will put a second condensate collection tube/drain on cooler output.
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mxdev
Well-known member
It's a little bit hacked together, but this is my $300 compressor I got on local classifieds. It's a 5HP motor, with a Powerex SLAE05E oil-less scroll compressor. Not as much CFM as piston compressors, but a lot quieter (70dBm standing beside it).
I built a custom magnetic stater/overload for it since I didn't like leaving the compressor on all the time, or using a disconnect as an on/off switch.
Also replaced the small screw in intake filter with a big one on a "custom" stand from a spare housing my brother in law saved from the scrap pile. The foam was stuffed in the intake to break up the acoustic pulses.
Still need to add an after cooler to help remove moisture, and add a fan to the installed pre-cooler so it works better. Love look of the B&M 70274 cooler though...
I built a custom magnetic stater/overload for it since I didn't like leaving the compressor on all the time, or using a disconnect as an on/off switch.
Also replaced the small screw in intake filter with a big one on a "custom" stand from a spare housing my brother in law saved from the scrap pile. The foam was stuffed in the intake to break up the acoustic pulses.
Still need to add an after cooler to help remove moisture, and add a fan to the installed pre-cooler so it works better. Love look of the B&M 70274 cooler though...
