SMOKEYBEAR
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- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 447
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
DP#152 - Part 8.1, The Head Frame
Like the other cast iron parts of this machine, the head frame was dirty and mild to moderately rusted.
The first step was a scrubbing with Grez-Off.
To clean up some of the rust, I have another weapon in my arsenal; liquid Barkeeper's Friend. BF contains oxalic acid which, like citric acid, will remove some of the lighter rust on painted surfaces. Apply it with a small scrub brush, let it sit for a while, scrub and rinse. Notice the BF will turn brownish when working.
This needed a second application. I wrapped it in plastic so it wouldn't dry out and let it sit for another 20 minutes. Then another scrub and rinse. It's still not perfect, but it's much better.
Barkeeper's Friend works well, but if there is too much rust, you'll get spots of bare cast iron.
Like the other cast iron parts of this machine, the head frame was dirty and mild to moderately rusted.
The first step was a scrubbing with Grez-Off.
This needed a second application. I wrapped it in plastic so it wouldn't dry out and let it sit for another 20 minutes. Then another scrub and rinse. It's still not perfect, but it's much better.
Barkeeper's Friend works well, but if there is too much rust, you'll get spots of bare cast iron.
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SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
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Base cover to keep debris out from under it, snagged an orange handle Craftsman torx driver off of ebay. There were screw driver sets and singles, this one was the least expensive. Didn't know such a thing existed until I started searched for orange and black handle screw drivers.
Attachments
DP#152 - Part 8.2
The next step is to clean out all the bores. I use a variety tube brushes and steel wool for the column bores.
Then, run taps through all the threaded holes.
I also drill (#29) and tap the trim panel mounting holes for an 8-32 machine screw. Craftsman 80s and 100s get a 6-32 screw.
Finally, blow out the dust, wax and buff. It looks much better with a coat of wax.
I will install the head on the column after all sub-assemblies are installed. I find it much easier to lubricate and assemble the head on the bench.
The next step is to clean out all the bores. I use a variety tube brushes and steel wool for the column bores.
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When assembling a Craftsman 150 head frame, I install parts and sub-assemblies in this order:
DP#152 - Part 9, The Outer Retaining Ring
The outer retaining ring is installed in a groove in the 50mm lower bore for the lower spindle pulley bearing. The ring provides a stop for the lower bearing to rest on.
The oe outer retaining ring is a proprietary part. The hooks on the retaining ring are often inconsistent. In the photo on the left below, the hook on the upper right allows needle nose pliers to slip off when compressing the ring. There was no problem installing the lower ring on DP#152.
Sometimes, I'll file a small flat on both inside ends of the ring with a small triangular file to better define the hook which makes it easier to install.
I believe a standard internal retaining ring would fit.
- Outer Retaining Ring
- Hub, Pinion, Spring & Pin assembly
- Quill & Spindle assembly
- Quill Lock assembly
- Feed Stop assembly
- Chuck
- Spindle Pulley assembly
- Head Trim Panel
DP#152 - Part 9, The Outer Retaining Ring
The outer retaining ring is installed in a groove in the 50mm lower bore for the lower spindle pulley bearing. The ring provides a stop for the lower bearing to rest on.
The oe outer retaining ring is a proprietary part. The hooks on the retaining ring are often inconsistent. In the photo on the left below, the hook on the upper right allows needle nose pliers to slip off when compressing the ring. There was no problem installing the lower ring on DP#152.
Sometimes, I'll file a small flat on both inside ends of the ring with a small triangular file to better define the hook which makes it easier to install.
I believe a standard internal retaining ring would fit.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Obviously there are a few other modifications on this drill press (switch/cord/motor knobs/etc), but curious if the belt cover is OEM. I looked, and couldn't find a different version for the 150, and kr loomed like they stopped listing the 100 version midway thru production. There appears to be a support bracket for it back by the motor.
This is not mine, but found on FBMP. If it is not OEM, it appears to be well-done or regardless.
This is not mine, but found on FBMP. If it is not OEM, it appears to be well-done or regardless.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Agreed. Wondering if it was one of the later "flat-tops" that was cut down and attached, or if he cut out the slots himself.
DP#152 - Part 10.1, The Hub, Pinion, Spring & Pin Assembly
Dismantling
Tye first step of dismantling the assembly is to remove the fiber thrust washer. They're somewhat fragile and sometimes missing.
Next is pin removal. The pin is 9/32" diameter by 1-1/2" long. The pin has straight knurls 3/8" long on one end to ensure a tight fit in the hub and pinion. You need to identify which end has the knurling and drive out the pin from the non-knurled end. You may be able to see witness marks on the hub. I also use a dental pick to help identify the knurling end. In this case, I could not. I had to punch the pin out a bit to figure that out.
In part 1. I mentioned that the previous own replaced the spring. He drove the pin out from the knurled end which flattened them.
With the pin removed, pull the spring out of the pinion shaft and remove the hub. This hub came off easily. The hub is often tight on the shaft. from dried grease. I've had success using a torch to gently heat the overlapping hub portion.
Tye first step of dismantling the assembly is to remove the fiber thrust washer. They're somewhat fragile and sometimes missing.
In part 1. I mentioned that the previous own replaced the spring. He drove the pin out from the knurled end which flattened them.
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DP#152 - Part 10.2
Cleaning
The first step is to clean the steel parts with lacquer thinner in the sonic cleaner.
While that was cooking, I cleaned the hub with Grez-Off.
There was a hard film on the chrome, so I proceeded with cleaner wax and #0000 steel wool. This works great, but not too much pressure.
Finally, i ran a 1/2-13 tap through the rod holes to clean the female threads. This completes the hub.
Back to the pinion and spring... Both were wire wheeled along with the pin.
I wasn't satisfied with just wire wheeling the pinion shaft, so I soaked it in citric acid and wet sanded with 1200 grit paper.
Cleaning
The first step is to clean the steel parts with lacquer thinner in the sonic cleaner.
While that was cooking, I cleaned the hub with Grez-Off.
There was a hard film on the chrome, so I proceeded with cleaner wax and #0000 steel wool. This works great, but not too much pressure.
Finally, i ran a 1/2-13 tap through the rod holes to clean the female threads. This completes the hub.
Back to the pinion and spring... Both were wire wheeled along with the pin.
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DP#152 - Part 10.3
Assembly
My swag is that during the manufacturing process, the hole for the pin was bored with the pinion shaft inserted in the hub. Rarely will the holes line up when swapping hubs or pinions from another machine. The through holes will only line up one way.
In the photo on the left, the pin is inserted from below, but the holes on the top are not even close in alignment. In the center photo, I am applying a bit of anti-seize in the hub. The photo on the right is with the pinion shaft rotated 180 degrees in the hub with the pin bores aligned correctly.
Here, I am applying a bead of Super Lube oil along the length of the spring barrel. The spring is inserted into the pinion shaft with the loop of the spring aligned with the pin bore. The non-knurled end of the pin was loosely inserted which captured the loop of the spring. Because the knurls of this pin were mashed, I added a drop of low-strength thread locker to the end of the pin.
With the assembly back in the jig, the pin was driven into the hub and pinion shaft.
The Hub, Pinion, Spring & Pin assembly is ready to install into the head frame.
Assembly
My swag is that during the manufacturing process, the hole for the pin was bored with the pinion shaft inserted in the hub. Rarely will the holes line up when swapping hubs or pinions from another machine. The through holes will only line up one way.
In the photo on the left, the pin is inserted from below, but the holes on the top are not even close in alignment. In the center photo, I am applying a bit of anti-seize in the hub. The photo on the right is with the pinion shaft rotated 180 degrees in the hub with the pin bores aligned correctly.
Here, I am applying a bead of Super Lube oil along the length of the spring barrel. The spring is inserted into the pinion shaft with the loop of the spring aligned with the pin bore. The non-knurled end of the pin was loosely inserted which captured the loop of the spring. Because the knurls of this pin were mashed, I added a drop of low-strength thread locker to the end of the pin.
With the assembly back in the jig, the pin was driven into the hub and pinion shaft.
DP#152 - Part 10.4
Installation
I applied a small dab of Super Lube grease to the edge of the hub for the fiber thrust washer. This acts as a glue to hold the washer during assembly and to lubricate the washer between the hub and head casting during quill feed.
Then, I inserted the shim into the spring.
Next, I sparingly lubricated the pinion shaft and it's bore in the head casting with Super Lube grease. The pinion gear was generously lubricated. I pressed the grease into the teeth of the pinion gear with my finger.
I inserted the assembly into the head casting, attached the spring loop onto the roll pin and removed the shim.
Installation is complete.
Installation
I applied a small dab of Super Lube grease to the edge of the hub for the fiber thrust washer. This acts as a glue to hold the washer during assembly and to lubricate the washer between the hub and head casting during quill feed.
Next, I sparingly lubricated the pinion shaft and it's bore in the head casting with Super Lube grease. The pinion gear was generously lubricated. I pressed the grease into the teeth of the pinion gear with my finger.
Installation is complete.
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