SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 448
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
DP#152 - Part 8.1, The Head Frame
Like the other cast iron parts of this machine, the head frame was dirty and mild to moderately rusted.
The first step was a scrubbing with Grez-Off.
To clean up some of the rust, I have another weapon in my arsenal; liquid Barkeeper's Friend. BF contains oxalic acid which, like citric acid, will remove some of the lighter rust on painted surfaces. Apply it with a small scrub brush, let it sit for a while, scrub and rinse. Notice the BF will turn brownish when working.
This needed a second application. I wrapped it in plastic so it wouldn't dry out and let it sit for another 20 minutes. Then another scrub and rinse. It's still not perfect, but it's much better.
Barkeeper's Friend works well, but if there is too much rust, you'll get spots of bare cast iron.
Like the other cast iron parts of this machine, the head frame was dirty and mild to moderately rusted.
The first step was a scrubbing with Grez-Off.
This needed a second application. I wrapped it in plastic so it wouldn't dry out and let it sit for another 20 minutes. Then another scrub and rinse. It's still not perfect, but it's much better.
Barkeeper's Friend works well, but if there is too much rust, you'll get spots of bare cast iron.
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SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 448
Base cover to keep debris out from under it, snagged an orange handle Craftsman torx driver off of ebay. There were screw driver sets and singles, this one was the least expensive. Didn't know such a thing existed until I started searched for orange and black handle screw drivers.
Attachments
DP#152 - Part 8.2
The next step is to clean out all the bores. I use a variety tube brushes and steel wool for the column bores.
Then, run taps through all the threaded holes.
I also drill (#29) and tap the trim panel mounting holes for an 8-32 machine screw. Craftsman 80s and 100s get a 6-32 screw.
Finally, blow out the dust, wax and buff. It looks much better with a coat of wax.
I will install the head on the column after all sub-assemblies are installed. I find it much easier to lubricate and assemble the head on the bench.
The next step is to clean out all the bores. I use a variety tube brushes and steel wool for the column bores.
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When assembling a Craftsman 150 head frame, I install parts and sub-assemblies in this order:
DP#152 - Part 9, The Outer Retaining Ring
The outer retaining ring is installed in a groove in the 50mm lower bore for the lower spindle pulley bearing. The ring provides a stop for the lower bearing to rest on.
The oe outer retaining ring is a proprietary part. The hooks on the retaining ring are often inconsistent. In the photo on the left below, the hook on the upper right allows needle nose pliers to slip off when compressing the ring. There was no problem installing the lower ring on DP#152.
Sometimes, I'll file a small flat on both inside ends of the ring with a small triangular file to better define the hook which makes it easier to install.
I believe a standard internal retaining ring would fit.
- Outer Retaining Ring
- Hub, Pinion, Spring & Pin assembly
- Quill & Spindle assembly
- Quill Lock assembly
- Feed Stop assembly
- Chuck
- Spindle Pulley assembly
- Head Trim Panel
DP#152 - Part 9, The Outer Retaining Ring
The outer retaining ring is installed in a groove in the 50mm lower bore for the lower spindle pulley bearing. The ring provides a stop for the lower bearing to rest on.
The oe outer retaining ring is a proprietary part. The hooks on the retaining ring are often inconsistent. In the photo on the left below, the hook on the upper right allows needle nose pliers to slip off when compressing the ring. There was no problem installing the lower ring on DP#152.
Sometimes, I'll file a small flat on both inside ends of the ring with a small triangular file to better define the hook which makes it easier to install.
I believe a standard internal retaining ring would fit.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Obviously there are a few other modifications on this drill press (switch/cord/motor knobs/etc), but curious if the belt cover is OEM. I looked, and couldn't find a different version for the 150, and kr loomed like they stopped listing the 100 version midway thru production. There appears to be a support bracket for it back by the motor.
This is not mine, but found on FBMP. If it is not OEM, it appears to be well-done or regardless.
This is not mine, but found on FBMP. If it is not OEM, it appears to be well-done or regardless.
Attachments
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Agreed. Wondering if it was one of the later "flat-tops" that was cut down and attached, or if he cut out the slots himself.
DP#152 - Part 10.1, The Hub, Pinion, Spring & Pin Assembly
Dismantling
The first step of dismantling the assembly is to remove the fiber thrust washer. They're somewhat fragile and sometimes missing.
Next is pin removal. The pin is 9/32" diameter by 1-1/2" long. The pin has straight knurls 3/8" long on one end to ensure a tight fit in the hub and pinion. You need to identify which end has the knurling and drive out the pin from the non-knurled end. You may be able to see witness marks on the hub. I also use a dental pick to help identify the knurling end. In this case, I could not. I had to punch the pin out a bit to figure that out.
In part 1. I mentioned that the previous owner replaced the spring. He drove the pin out from the knurled end which flattened them.
With the pin removed, pull the spring out of the pinion shaft and remove the hub. This hub came off easily. The hub is often tight on the shaft from dried grease. I've had success using a torch to gently heat the overlapping hub portion.
The first step of dismantling the assembly is to remove the fiber thrust washer. They're somewhat fragile and sometimes missing.
In part 1. I mentioned that the previous owner replaced the spring. He drove the pin out from the knurled end which flattened them.
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DP#152 - Part 10.2
Cleaning
The first step is to clean the steel parts with lacquer thinner in the sonic cleaner.
While that was cooking, I cleaned the hub with Grez-Off.
There was a hard film on the chrome, so I proceeded with cleaner wax and #0000 steel wool. This works great, but not too much pressure.
Finally, i ran a 1/2-13 tap through the rod holes to clean the female threads. This completes the hub.
Back to the pinion and spring... Both were wire wheeled along with the pin.
I wasn't satisfied with just wire wheeling the pinion shaft, so I soaked it in citric acid and wet sanded with 1200 grit paper.
Cleaning
The first step is to clean the steel parts with lacquer thinner in the sonic cleaner.
While that was cooking, I cleaned the hub with Grez-Off.
There was a hard film on the chrome, so I proceeded with cleaner wax and #0000 steel wool. This works great, but not too much pressure.
Finally, i ran a 1/2-13 tap through the rod holes to clean the female threads. This completes the hub.
Back to the pinion and spring... Both were wire wheeled along with the pin.
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DP#152 - Part 10.3
Assembly
My swag is that during the manufacturing process, the hole for the pin was bored with the pinion shaft inserted in the hub. Rarely will the holes line up when swapping hubs or pinions from another machine. The through holes will only line up one way.
In the photo on the left, the pin is inserted from below, but the holes on the top are not even close in alignment. In the center photo, I am applying a bit of anti-seize in the hub. The photo on the right is with the pinion shaft rotated 180 degrees in the hub with the pin bores aligned correctly.
Here, I am applying a bead of Super Lube oil along the length of the spring barrel. The spring is inserted into the pinion shaft with the loop of the spring aligned with the pin bore. The non-knurled end of the pin was loosely inserted which captured the loop of the spring. Because the knurls of this pin were mashed, I added a drop of low-strength thread locker to the end of the pin.
With the assembly back in the jig, the pin was driven into the hub and pinion shaft.
The Hub, Pinion, Spring & Pin assembly is ready to be installed into the head frame.
Assembly
My swag is that during the manufacturing process, the hole for the pin was bored with the pinion shaft inserted in the hub. Rarely will the holes line up when swapping hubs or pinions from another machine. The through holes will only line up one way.
In the photo on the left, the pin is inserted from below, but the holes on the top are not even close in alignment. In the center photo, I am applying a bit of anti-seize in the hub. The photo on the right is with the pinion shaft rotated 180 degrees in the hub with the pin bores aligned correctly.
Here, I am applying a bead of Super Lube oil along the length of the spring barrel. The spring is inserted into the pinion shaft with the loop of the spring aligned with the pin bore. The non-knurled end of the pin was loosely inserted which captured the loop of the spring. Because the knurls of this pin were mashed, I added a drop of low-strength thread locker to the end of the pin.
With the assembly back in the jig, the pin was driven into the hub and pinion shaft.
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DP#152 - Part 10.4
Installation
I applied a small dab of Super Lube grease to the edge of the hub for the fiber thrust washer. This acts as a glue to hold the washer during assembly and to lubricate the washer between the hub and head casting during quill feed.
Then, I inserted the shim into the spring.
Next, I sparingly lubricated the pinion shaft and it's bore in the head casting with Super Lube grease. The pinion gear was generously lubricated. I pressed the grease into the teeth of the pinion gear with my finger.
I inserted the assembly into the head casting, attached the spring loop onto the roll pin and removed the shim.
Installation is complete.
Installation
I applied a small dab of Super Lube grease to the edge of the hub for the fiber thrust washer. This acts as a glue to hold the washer during assembly and to lubricate the washer between the hub and head casting during quill feed.
Next, I sparingly lubricated the pinion shaft and it's bore in the head casting with Super Lube grease. The pinion gear was generously lubricated. I pressed the grease into the teeth of the pinion gear with my finger.
Installation is complete.
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DP#152 - Part 11.1, The Quill & Spindle assembly
Dismantling
The first step is to remove the retaining ring from the lower quill. A couple vise grips and spreading pliers made it an easy task.
Next is the spindle collar and washers. A 5/32" hex key will remove the set screw in the collar. The set screw measures 5/16-18 by 1/2" and has a cone point.
The collar is often stuck on the spindle. A long 5/16-18 bolt can be used as a handle to twist and slide off the collar.
The steel washer and rubber washer are often stuck to the collar. It's usually easy to separate them.
Next, before attempting to remove the spindle, inspect the spindle for any burrs. File off anything that may interfere with the spindle sliding out of the bearings.
Then, clean the splines with steel wool and inspect the splines for any nicks, burrs or mushrooming.
With nothing apparent left to impede the spindle, it's time to remove it. Sometimes, the spindle will slide out of the bearings with minimal effort. Other times, a rubber mallet can be used. This one was a little more stubborn, so I used my spindle press.
The spindle must be pressed ~13". I installed a zip tie on the forcing screw to know when to stop.
The last step is to remove the bearings from the quill. Insert a long dowel through one bearing to knock out the opposite bearing. Pound the dowel on a hard surface and the bearing will dislodge. The shields may become damaged, but new bearings should be installed anyway.
There is no need to remove the thrust collar from the spindle.
Dismantling
The first step is to remove the retaining ring from the lower quill. A couple vise grips and spreading pliers made it an easy task.
Next, before attempting to remove the spindle, inspect the spindle for any burrs. File off anything that may interfere with the spindle sliding out of the bearings.
There is no need to remove the thrust collar from the spindle.
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DP#152 - Part 11.2
Cleaning
If you're still following along, this post will cover cleaning the quill & spindle parts.
First, I got the spindle soaking in lacquer thinner to dissolve the grease and the smaller parts in the sonic cleaner.
While that's working, I'll start on the quill. Like everything else from this machine, it's really nasty.
I start by cleaning the dried grease from the teeth of the gear rack with a dental pick. Then brush the teeth with mineral spirits.
Next, I scrubbed the outside of the quill with steel wool and mineral spirits.
The remaining grease got removed with a wire wheel.
Next, the parts soak in citric acid.
After a few hours, the quill was removed from the citric acid, rinsed and wet-sanded with 1200 grit paper.
The other small parts were rinsed, dried and wire wheeled.
The spindle collar was completed with a tap and a tube brush.
The spindle was pulled from the lacquer thinner.
The thrust collar and splines were wire wheeled.
The splines needed a bit more rust removal, so it sat in citric acid for a bit and wire wheeled again.
To prepare for assembly, I wrapped the spindle in a towel and put it in the freezer.
Cleaning
If you're still following along, this post will cover cleaning the quill & spindle parts.
First, I got the spindle soaking in lacquer thinner to dissolve the grease and the smaller parts in the sonic cleaner.
Next, I scrubbed the outside of the quill with steel wool and mineral spirits.
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DP#152 - Part 11.3
Assembly
The first step is to heat the bearing. Five minutes on the light bulb is enough.
Next, retrieve the spindle from the freezer and slide the heated bearing onto the frozen spindle.
Install the quill onto the lower bearing.
Heat the upper bearing and slide it onto the spindle. It may not slide all the way into the quill.
Fully seat the bearing into the quill with a pipe on the inner race of the bearing.
Next, install the steel spindle washer and the rubber spindle washer.
Rinse the spindle collar and set screw in acetone to remove any trace of oil and let dry. Apply a dot of thread locker in the internal threads of the collar and on the external threads of the set screw.
Slide the collar onto the spindle with the set screw hole over the divot in the spindle. Then, install and tighten the set screw. You should feel the rubber washer compress slightly as the point of the set screw finds the center of the divot. This is preloading the bearings.
Next, clamp the splines of the spindle into a vise and install the quill gasket (bumper) onto the lower quill.
Clamp the ends of the quill retaining ring into vise grips. With spreading piers, splay open the retaining ring enough to slide it onto the quill and into its groove.
Assembly is complete.
DP#152 - Part 11.4
Installation
The first step is to apply a generous bead of Super Lube grease along the gear rack. I apply it on the side of the gear rack where the pinion gear intersects with the gear rack. Spread it into the teeth with a finger.
Then, spread a thin layer of grease onto the outside of the quill.
Next, draw out the hub/pinion with one hand and fully insert the quill/spindle assembly into the head casting. Turn the quill if necessary to allow the pinion gear to mesh with the gear rack. Allow the hub/pinion to retract back into the head casting.
Turn the hub/pinion back and forth a few times to verify that the quill moves smoothly in the head casting. Installation is complete. Spring tensioning will come later.
Assembly
The first step is to heat the bearing. Five minutes on the light bulb is enough.
Next, retrieve the spindle from the freezer and slide the heated bearing onto the frozen spindle.
Heat the upper bearing and slide it onto the spindle. It may not slide all the way into the quill.
Rinse the spindle collar and set screw in acetone to remove any trace of oil and let dry. Apply a dot of thread locker in the internal threads of the collar and on the external threads of the set screw.
Next, clamp the splines of the spindle into a vise and install the quill gasket (bumper) onto the lower quill.
Assembly is complete.
DP#152 - Part 11.4
Installation
The first step is to apply a generous bead of Super Lube grease along the gear rack. I apply it on the side of the gear rack where the pinion gear intersects with the gear rack. Spread it into the teeth with a finger.
Then, spread a thin layer of grease onto the outside of the quill.
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I wish I'd known about your freezer and lightbulb trick. One of my 2 rebuilds gave me a lot of trouble getting those bearings on. Thanks again for good advise.DP#152 - Part 11.3
Assembly
The first step is to heat the bearing. Five minutes on the light bulb is enough.
Next, retrieve the spindle from the freezer and slide the heated bearing onto the frozen spindle.
Install the quill onto the lower bearing.
Heat the upper bearing and slide it onto the spindle. It may not slide all the way into the quill.
Fully seat the bearing into the quill with a pipe on the inner race of the bearing.
Next, install the steel spindle washer and the rubber spindle washer.
Slide the collar onto the spindle with the set screw hole over the divot in the spindle. Then, install and tighten the set screw. You should feel the rubber washer compress slightly as the point of the set screw finds the center of the divot. This is preloading the bearings.
Rinse the spindle collar and set screw in acetone to remove any trace of oil and let dry. Apply a dot of thread locker in the internal threads of the collar and on the external threads of the set screw.
Next, clamp the splines of the spindle into a vise and install the quill gasket (bumper) onto the lower quill.
Clamp the ends of the quill retaining ring into vise grips. With spreading piers, splay open the retaining ring enough to slide it onto the quill and into its groove.
Assembly is complete.
DP#152 - Part 11.4
Installation
The first step is to apply a generous bead of Super Lube grease along the gear rack. I apply it on the side of the gear rack where the pinion gear intersects with the gear rack. Spread it into the teeth with a finger.
Then, spread a thin layer of grease onto the outside of the quill.
Next, draw out the hub/pinion with one hand and fully insert the quill/spindle assembly into the head casting. Turn the quill if necessary to allow the pinion gear to mesh with the gear rack. Allow the hub/pinion to retract back into the head casting.
Turn the hub/pinion back and forth a few times to verify that the quill moves smoothly in the head casting. Installation is complete. Spring tensioning will come later.
It probably works more than 90% of the time. It works great for motors too.
Craftsman Drill Press
I wasn't going to rebuild the chuck. But then I saw all the threads showing how to do it, and people recommending to do so. And looked inside mine to see all the corrosion and filth. The release nut is just a hair too big for my press, and I don't have the right tubing on hand. I managed to get...
www.garagejournal.com
DP#152 - Part 12.1, The Quill Lock assembly
Dismantling
There's not much to it... remove the set screw for the handle with a 3/32" hex key and remove the handle from the lock bolt hex head.
Remove the threaded lock cylinder and slide off the sleeve cylinder. The washer is not in the parts list, but likely added to space the handle away from head casting.
DP#152 - Part 12.2
Cleaning
All parts were cleaned in the sonic cleaner.
All steel parts were then soaked in citric acid.
All parts were wire wheeled. The chrome handle was gently wheeled with a 0.004" fine wire wheel.
The inside of the cylinders were cleaned with a tube brush. A tap was run through the lock cylinder.
DP#152 - Part 12.3
Assembly and Installation
Sparingly lubricate the lock bores with Super Lube grease.
Apply a drop of oil on the bolt shoulder for the sleeve cylinder and a drop on the threads for the lock cylinder. Slide the spacer washer and sleeve cylinder onto the lock bolt.
Insert the threaded lock cylinder into the right side of the head casting and the bolt with sleeve cylinder into the left side.
Gently tighten the quill lock bolt and place the lock handle on the bolt head. I like the lock handle in the 1 o'clock to 4 o'clock position. When unlocked, the handle will hang at the 6 o'clock position. Install and tighten the set screw. The quill lock is complete.
I never noticed this before. On this 150, notice how deep the lock cylinder is into the head casting in the photo on the left. The center photo is my keeper 100. The head castings are slightly different around the quill lock. This would also explain the spacer washer under the lock bolt head.
Dismantling
There's not much to it... remove the set screw for the handle with a 3/32" hex key and remove the handle from the lock bolt hex head.
Remove the threaded lock cylinder and slide off the sleeve cylinder. The washer is not in the parts list, but likely added to space the handle away from head casting.
DP#152 - Part 12.2
Cleaning
All parts were cleaned in the sonic cleaner.
All steel parts were then soaked in citric acid.
All parts were wire wheeled. The chrome handle was gently wheeled with a 0.004" fine wire wheel.
The inside of the cylinders were cleaned with a tube brush. A tap was run through the lock cylinder.
DP#152 - Part 12.3
Assembly and Installation
Sparingly lubricate the lock bores with Super Lube grease.
Apply a drop of oil on the bolt shoulder for the sleeve cylinder and a drop on the threads for the lock cylinder. Slide the spacer washer and sleeve cylinder onto the lock bolt.
Insert the threaded lock cylinder into the right side of the head casting and the bolt with sleeve cylinder into the left side.
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DP#152 - Part 13.1, The Feed Stop assembly
Dismantling
The feed stop assembly was mostly dismantled during head frame dismantling. The original stop collar was missing and was replaced with a one-piece collar with set screw.
DP#152 - Part 13.2
Cleaning
I started by scrubbing the feed stop bracket with steel wool to remove the thick layer of grease.
Then, all small parts went a few cycles in the sonic cleaner.
While that was working, I scrubbed the flats of the rod with steel wool and wire wheeled the threads.
Rusty parts were added to a citric acid bath.
Nuts were wire wheeled and female threads were cleaned with taps.
The bracket was lightly wire wheeled and its bores were cleaned with tube brushes.
Quite frequently, the through-hole for the 1/4-20 bolt gets mushroomed inward. I ran a 1/4" drill bit to clean that up.
Following the citric acid, the rod was wire wheeled again. All parts are clean.
The aftermarket stop collar fits perfectly on the rod. The problem is that the set screw tightens on the flat of the scale.
There are quite a few set screw witness marks up and down both flats of the rod.
I tried to drill a new hole for the set screw 90 degrees from the original, but got nowhere. That is a hardened collar. I'll look for a brass screw to replace that set screw.
Dismantling
The feed stop assembly was mostly dismantled during head frame dismantling. The original stop collar was missing and was replaced with a one-piece collar with set screw.
DP#152 - Part 13.2
Cleaning
I started by scrubbing the feed stop bracket with steel wool to remove the thick layer of grease.
The bracket was lightly wire wheeled and its bores were cleaned with tube brushes.
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Frank, what about a small brass slug under the existing set screw? Not sire how much room you have to work with.
When I assembled my 150 I also noticed how recessed the quill lock cylinder was, and it didn't "match" the head lock cylinder. It bugged me enough that I found a shiny washer and epoxied it to the end of the cylinder to make it look better.DP#152 - Part 12.1, The Quill Lock assembly
Dismantling
There's not much to it... remove the set screw for the handle with a 3/32" hex key and remove the handle from the lock bolt hex head.
Remove the threaded lock cylinder and slide off the sleeve cylinder. The washer is not in the parts list, but likely added to space the handle away from head casting.
DP#152 - Part 12.2
Cleaning
All parts were cleaned in the sonic cleaner.
All steel parts were then soaked in citric acid.
All parts were wire wheeled. The chrome handle was gently wheeled with a 0.004" fine wire wheel.
The inside of the cylinders were cleaned with a tube brush. A tap was run through the lock cylinder.
DP#152 - Part 12.3
Assembly and Installation
Sparingly lubricate the lock bores with Super Lube grease.
Apply a drop of oil on the bolt shoulder for the sleeve cylinder and a drop on the threads for the lock cylinder. Slide the spacer washer and sleeve cylinder onto the lock bolt.
Insert the threaded lock cylinder into the right side of the head casting and the bolt with sleeve cylinder into the left side.
Gently tighten the quill lock bolt and place the lock handle on the bolt head. I like the lock handle in the 1 o'clock to 4 o'clock position. When unlocked, the handle will hang at the 6 o'clock position. Install and tighten the set screw. The quill lock is complete.
I never noticed this before. On this 150, notice how deep the lock cylinder is into the head casting in the photo on the left. The center photo is my keeper 100. The head castings are slightly different around the quill lock. This would also explain the spacer washer under the lock bolt head.
