Craftsman Drill Press

[endangeredspecies]

Thanks guys!

I was trying to check level. The column is at such an angle that the table isn’t level. So the pulleys aren’t either. I’ll check into that in a bit.

Belt is new. (3 years old, but unused .) I got the Gates Hi-PowerII (A43), which was recommended elsewhere on this thread. Will definitely look into the toothed ones now that I know how easy it is to install and adjust.

First order of business was 1/4” holes in 1/8” aluminum with M42 bits. 2 different sources put recommended RPM in the 4500- 5,000 range. Seemed awfully high - and super fast in general. But I’m trying to do it right.

Next up is drilling bit holders in walnut with HSS. Looks like recommendations put me in the 1500rpm range (depending on diameter), so I’ll adjust level, slow it down, order a belt, and see how it goes.

 

[FrankLee]

I was trying to check level. The column is at such an angle that the table isn’t level. So the pulleys aren’t either. I’ll check into that in a bit.

You want square, not level. Level doesn't matter when checking the spindle, motor and belt alignment since everything is at the same relative out-of-level. A straight edge across the motor pulley will still work regardless of level.

 

[Outlawmws]

You want square, not level. Level doesn't matter when checking the spindle, motor and belt alignment since everything is at the same relative out-of-level. A straight edge across the motor pulley will still work regardless of level.

 

[Cruzan80]

You want square, not level. Level doesn't matter when checking the spindle, motor and belt alignment since everything is at the same relative out-of-level. A straight edge across the motor pulley will still work regardless of level.

Technically, you want co-planar (surfaces occupy the same 2D plane). Square would be perpendicular (90deg between planes)...

@endangeredspecies, most people use "level" as it is an easily repeatable way to achieve co-planar, but Frank is right that as long as they line up, level doesn't actually matter.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Technically, you want co-planar (surfaces occupy the same 2D plane). Square would be perpendicular (90deg between planes)...

@endangeredspecies, most people use "level" as it is an easily repeatable way to achieve co-planar, but Frank is right that as long as they line up, level doesn't actually matter.

First thing I did last night (after taking the video) was was dial up tension on the Feed Return to return to top position. That seemed to help.

The coumn wasn't fully seated in the base! I thought it seemed funny. All set now.
Here's level at the floor:

https://imgur.com/a/GUMJoFh

And here's the Table:

https://imgur.com/a/CpuGe8v

Adjusting motor height without a helper sure was fun. Rigged up a couple 2x4's for support and got it done.
Here's the pulley tops after adjustment (motor had been about 1/8" low):

https://imgur.com/a/mgbEm0D

Much better. A quick spin:

https://imgur.com/a/fDsHSaf

Lowered to 1280 RPM position for 3/32 to 1/2" holes in wood:

https://imgur.com/a/oaaJ4zn

https://imgur.com/a/ZKkVWFU

Thanks again. I hope I haven't made too much of a mess of this thread.
Without your collective help I would have given up long ago, set this on the curb, and picked up a Grizzly or Delta benchtop DP and called it a day.

About to order a cogged belt. PIX is a week out; Goodyear is end of month. Gates AX43 can get here tomorrow, but costs twice as much as PIX. With my use, I expect to get several years out of a belt so $20 doesn't seem too much to spend. Any reason I shouldn't go with Gates?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks again. I hope I haven't made too much of a mess of this thread.
Without your collective help I would have given up long ago, set this on the curb, and picked up a Grizzly or Delta benchtop DP and called it a day.

About to order a cogged belt. PIX is a week out; Goodyear is end of month. Gates AX43 can get here tomorrow, but costs twice as much as PIX. With my use, I expect to get several years out of a belt so $20 doesn't seem too much to spend. Any reason I shouldn't go with Gates?

Besides cost, no reason at all.

 

[Outlawmws]

DP Belts will take a semi permanent "set" from not using it regularly before they ever wear out.

 

[endangeredspecies]

DP Belts will take a semi permanent "set" from not using it regularly before they ever wear out.

Thanks.
From past experience, I'll use it regularly. Just not very hard, or for very long. Like 5 minutes a month, with a bit more a couple times a year. Depending on free time for hobbies, and the honey-do list.

Cogged Gates belt is on the way.

 

[FrankLee]

Square would be perpendicular (90deg between planes)...

Correct. The belt should be square (perpendicular) to both the spindle and motor shaft.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Cogged AX43 belt came in this afternoon, after I had drilled about 35 holes.
Swapped in easily.
It doesn’t feel all that much more pliable in hand than the A43, but I guess sitting around in the garage and shed for 4 years didn’t do it any favors. Tension was much easier to set with the new one, and she spins like a top! Definitely worth the $20.

https://imgur.com/a/2rE1Plr

I also found the original Jacobs chuck key. Not sure why it was relegated to the bottom of the parts bin. A little grez-off and scotch brite, and she’s good to go!

https://imgur.com/a/kGC4rtB

 

[Outlawmws]

I also found the original Jacobs chuck key. Not sure why it was relegated to the bottom of the parts bin. A little grez-off and scotch brite, and she’s good to go!

get an old screwdriver handle and give your hand a break:

 

[endangeredspecies]

get an old screwdriver handle and give your hand a break:

Using the key isn’t hard on my hand, though I imagine your trick would make it even more pleasant. Except - what did you do to get it to stay together? Flatten flat end? Epoxy round end? Other trick?

 

[Outlawmws]

what did you do to get it to stay together? Flatten flat end? Epoxy round end? Other trick?

Press/friction fit. just drill one size smaller.

 

[endangeredspecies]

Is it okay to place this here?
Used the refurbished 100 to drill out the walnut to accommodate a new Norseman HSS set, and some other handy stuff.
Replaced the ill-sized, incomplete old set that was left behind with the DP.

M42 drills for metal are still in their box.

https://imgur.com/a/D1hmMO6

 

[endangeredspecies]

Now that the DP has found a semi-permanent home ( may just need to move it to work on larger stock), should I shoot a couple lags through it to secure to the floor?
It’s still mounted to the original pallet, and easy to wobble.

Floor is 1.125 T&G ply over 3/4 ply, on standard Tuff-Shed steel joists.

 

[Outlawmws]

I would - you can always take the screws back out...

 

[endangeredspecies]

Task completed.
Behold, Taj Ma-Shed:

https://imgur.com/a/3FKGbxk

 

[endangeredspecies]

Anybody know if there’s any kind of market for a non-refurbished 75 year old 1/4hp bronze bearing motor?

https://imgur.com/a/bzwdPX7

 

[FrankLee]

Now that the DP has found a semi-permanent home ( may just need to move it to work on larger stock), should I shoot a couple lags through it to secure to the floor?
It’s still mounted to the original pallet, and easy to wobble.

Floor is 1.125 T&G ply over 3/4 ply, on standard Tuff-Shed steel joists.

A couple things...

Is the floor flat? How far apart are the floor joists?

That factory pallet may not be flat. It looks like several of those nails may have backed out some. This could lead to rocking. Did you hammer those nails flat?

Also, the column may be extending below the three "feet" of the base. I always install the base flush with the lower column bore.

Task completed.
Behold, Taj Ma-Shed:

Excellent!

Anybody know if there’s any kind of market for a non-refurbished 75 year old 1/4hp bronze bearing motor?

Absolutely!

IMO, sleeve bearing motors are easier to refurb than ball bearing motors.

 

[Prospecter]

Anybody know if there’s any kind of market for a non-refurbished 75 year old 1/4hp bronze bearing motor?

https://imgur.com/a/bzwdPX7

We've got a "local" (in state) guy who refurbishes and sells motors who would probably that. No help to you. Wrong coast, but suggests there might be someone around. Our guy advertises on CL / MP.

 

[Snip's]

Legendary racer, Smokey Yunick, spinning the legendary Craftsman drill press...

 

[endangeredspecies]

Cogged AX43 belt came in this afternoon, after I had drilled about 35 holes.
Swapped in easily.
It doesn’t feel all that much more pliable in hand than the A43, but I guess sitting around in the garage and shed for 4 years didn’t do it any favors. Tension was much easier to set with the new one, and she spins like a top! Definitely worth the $20.

https://imgur.com/a/2rE1Plr

I also found the original Jacobs chuck key. Not sure why it was relegated to the bottom of the parts bin. A little grez-off and scotch brite, and she’s good to go!

https://imgur.com/a/kGC4rtB

Turns out I had a brand-new, 4-year-old, cogged belt, too. I had forgotten about it. Fell behind the workbench, it seems.

https://imgur.com/xSYipxC

New Gates AX43 is working so well, I'm not going to worry about it. Spare for next time?

 

[FrankLee]

Spare for next time?

Time to find a Craftsman 150.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#150 is a 150.

I brought this one home a couple days ago. It's a late King-Seeley, model 103.24501; repainted, missing the head trim panel and the motor mount clip stud.

The motor is a massive Wards RI 1/3 hp, 1750 rpm beast with a built-in forward/reverse switch.

​

 

[FrankLee]

I took a 200 mile round trip this afternoon to pick up this sad Atlas 5010 sander (#3). It is missing several key parts, but the only thing I needed was the stop fence to complete my refurb'd Atlas 5010. I was checking ebay every day for weeks with no luck.

​

​

 

[Hoorn]

Nice patience @FrankLee
I too have had to "lie in wait" for months for an elusive part.

 

[Outlawmws]

Well done Frank!

 

[FrankLee]

Next question .. cleaning is well underway. The original color is blue-gray. There doesn't seem to be anyone making anything close to this color any more. I've been looking all over for a gray that has some blueish tint. Any suggestions? I can't believe no one makes a blue-gray and I don't want to get too crazy with custom stuff.

Krylon Matte Dark Pearl:

This morning, I discovered an outstanding paint color match for the mid '40s to late '50s King-Seeley and Packard Electric Craftsman gray.

Krylon #2937 Matte Dark Pearl and is the closest off-the-shelf match I've ever come across. I have a Head and Table Lift that will get this color.

​

Table saw motor mount. Left side is sprayed with Krylon MDP

​

---

Also, I recently learned that if sprayed too heavy or re-coated too soon, the Matte Dark Pearl will be too glossy. The can says to re-coat within 6 hours or after 24 hours.

I sprayed these a week ago... primer and three coats each about an hour apart.


I re-sprayed them lightly this morning.






1/6/2024

This morning, I finished (almost) assembling the 115.7575 grinder...



and a 115.6962 motor.

10/27/2025

Update regarding Krylon Matte Dark Pearl...

@Bronislaus mentioned on that other site that Krylon MDP was discontinued.

I had a chat with Kryon this morning and was informed that it is not discontinued, but it does have a new part number.

KRYLON (10/27/2025 9:01 AM): Hi there! I'm Krylon's virtual assistant.
KRYLON (10/27/2025 9:01 AM): I'd be happy to get you connected with one of our live agents. So how can we help you today?

You (10/27/2025 9:01 AM): Good morning,
You (10/27/2025 9:03 AM): I'm curious about the Krylon Matte Dark Pearl, # 2937....
You (10/27/2025 9:03 AM): Is this a discontinued color?

KRYLON (10/27/2025 9:13 AM): The new part number is: K02937007
KRYLON (10/27/2025 9:13 AM): It is still being made. It was is carried by Lowe's.

KRYLON (10/27/2025 9:14 AM): Wal-Mart also stocks it

I don't recall seeing it at WM, but a few Lowes stores in my area have some in stock.

 

[Junkman]

Every time I come to this thread, I think about getting back to restoring my old Craftsman DP.

 

[FrankLee]

Every time I come to this thread, I think about getting back to restoring my old Craftsman DP.

You should.

What’s stopping you?

 

[Junkman]

It isn't high enough on my list of projects. I am a full-time driver, "Miss Daisy" (my wife, since she no longer drives). Just today, she thanked me for being so patient as she wandered around a store. I always thought that I would be the one who needed the "chauffeur", but it didn't work out that way. If I can get the garage cleaned out this winter, I will put it together if I can still find all the parts.

 

[FrankLee]

This morning, I discovered that hog ring pliers do a very good job in re-forming wonky feed return springs. The narrow grooved jaws are much better and much easier to use than the slip-joint pliers or needle-nose pliers I had used in the past.

 

[Prospecter]

That is an inspired solution! Wish I'd thought of it!

 

[FrankLee]

Howdy Folks...
Restoring a Craftsman 113.24630 Industrial DP. When purchased it had all thread with old hammer handles for knobs. Looking for good condition knobs to replace. Black or Burgundy is fine with me. Would prefer to not purchase entire spindle handle assembly for just the knobs.
Thanks, Mike

Mike,

I've seen just the knobs on ebay, but they are usually way over-priced.
Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267459464391

If you're not a purist, there are good inexpensive options. McMaster, Grainger, Amazon and others have many options.
https://www.amazon.com/CL-55-PTK-Carr-Lane-Manufacturing-Phenolic/dp/B00H933QD4?tag=atomicindus08-20

The problem with using aftermarket knobs is that the oe rods are only partially threaded. However, it's not difficult to continue the 5/16-18 threads. If you get oe knobs later, they still work perfectly on the modified rods. The only thing to verify is that the socket on the aftermarket knob is deep enough to accommodate the 1.25" stud. Or, you can drill and tap the knob deeper.

​

Another option is to make your own custom knobs.



It's also possible that someone is 3D printing a replica of the oe knob.

The oe knob is ~1-3/8" dia x ~2-1/4" long.

 

[CH-Midget]

Much obliged, Frank

 

[Wickedbass]

Been following this thread for years- Thanks for all the great info.
This guy followed me home last week after I spotted it on FB- $100
I've been after a table lift since I first saw them on here years ago.
I also have a vari-slo i picked a few years ago. The plan is restore one of them will all the parts I like- and we will see about the other.
Lucky for me I found a "left handed lift"

 

[FrankLee]

Been following this thread for years- Thanks for all the great info.
This guy followed me home last week after I spotted it on FB- $100
I've been after a table lift since I first saw them on here years ago.
I also have a vari-slo i picked a few years ago. The plan is restore one of them will all the parts I like- and we will see about the other.
Lucky for me I found a "left handed lift"

Very nice!

It looks like both machines will refurbish nicely.

So far, you'll definitely want to keep the Jacobs 633C Safe-Lock chuck and the steel lock sleeves on your keeper machine. You'll probably also want to keep the ball-end head and table lock handles to match the lift lock handles.

Looking forward to watching your progress.

 

[Wickedbass]

Very nice!

It looks like both machines will refurbish nicely.

So far, you'll definitely want to keep the Jacobs 633C Safe-Lock chuck and the steel lock sleeves on your keeper machine. You'll probably also want to keep the ball-end head and table lock handles to match the lift lock handles.

Looking forward to watching your progress.

Thanks-Good news the gears look great. It took about three hours to get them off the collum- 2x4 and a hammer.
Getting these collum locks out is not easy also- ill let them soak a few days.
What are the steel lock sleeves?

 

[FrankLee]

What are the steel lock sleeves?

Your DP#2 with the lift is '46-'48. Early machines have zamac lock cylinders with a separate nut. Zamac cylinders had a tendency to deform to the curve of the column when the locks were loosened and tightened over time. This caused the heads, tables and quills to stick.

Your lift also has zamac cylinders which would account for the some of the difficulty you had on removing it from the column.

My swag is that your DP#1 with the Vari-Slo is a '54-'55 machine. Starting in the early '50s, zamac cylinders were phased out in lieu of steel threaded cylinders. That occurred over a couple/few years. The steel cylinders do not deform.

Craftsman Drill Press

Finally back working in the shed. I've started building my press-adjacent workbench, which got me looking at the press. The Headstock Lock Handle was mounted on the wrong side, causing interference between it, the feed handles, and an add-on power switch. One of the quill / feed handles was...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Wickedbass]

Your DP#2 with the lift is '46-'48. Early machines have zamac lock cylinders with a separate nut. Zamac cylinders had a tendency to deform to the curve of the column when the locks were loosend an tightened over time. This caused the heads, tables and quills to stick.

Your lift has zamac cylinders which would account for the some of the difficulty you had on removing it from the column.

My swag is that your DP#1 with the Vari-Slo is a '54-'55 machine. Starting in the early '50s, zamac cylinders were phased out in lieu of steel threaded cylinders. That occurred over a couple/few years. The steel cylinders do not deform.

Craftsman Drill Press

Finally back working in the shed. I've started building my press-adjacent workbench, which got me looking at the press. The Headstock Lock Handle was mounted on the wrong side, causing interference between it, the feed handles, and an add-on power switch. One of the quill / feed handles was...

www.garagejournal.com

Ah got it- thanks.
The sleeves in the lift look like Zamac also- is that why they are hard to get out?