Username already in use
Well-known member
Threaded, yes. I have the 2 small slotted screws that come out.
I feel like this is an earlier model. Late 40's perhaps?
I feel like this is an earlier model. Late 40's perhaps?
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Username already in use
Well-known member
Good to know. The Craftsman tag was painted over, but I was able to get enough of the blue paint off to see that it's marked 'Guaranteed Highest Quality' and not 'by King-Seely Corp'. Do you know when they changed that tag over?
I know there were at least four different styles of the 3" wide heritage logo badges, but I never knew or researched which was used when on what machine. Perhaps someone knows.
I have the following on my some of my machines. The bottom one has all red text background, no blue.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
CRAFTSMAN
REG. TRADE MARK
GUARANTEED HIGHEST QUALITY
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
REG. U.S. PAT. OFF.
CRAFTSMAN
MADE BY
KING-SEELEY CORPORATION
GUARANTEED HIGHEST QUALITY
CRAFTSMAN
REGISTERED U.S. PAT. OFF.
REGISTERED U.S. PAT. OFF.
CRAFTSMAN
BY
KING-SEELEY
CORPORATION
CRAFTSMAN
REG. TRADE MARK
GUARANTEED HIGHEST QUALITY
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
REG. U.S. PAT. OFF.
CRAFTSMAN
MADE BY
KING-SEELEY CORPORATION
GUARANTEED HIGHEST QUALITY
CRAFTSMAN
REGISTERED U.S. PAT. OFF.
REGISTERED U.S. PAT. OFF.
CRAFTSMAN
BY
KING-SEELEY
CORPORATION
Last edited:
Well that's a bummer. But I truly appreciate the effort you took to look it up. The hunt continues..haha
Username already in use
Well-known member
It would be nice to help zero in on a date based on the logo.
Here's mine, also what appears to be some of the original paint from the press. Almost a blue/green color.
Attachments
I know this is probably a long shot but would anyone be willing to post a picture of what the quill return spring looks like for the 103.0305? Just so I have some kind of reference to go by. Thank you.
I know I was told I should just part this machine out but I am stubborn and usually exhaust all options before I give up. I am determined. Also how do you measure what size clock spring style you need? Looking online I see them range from what is labeled as a 8" DP to 15" DP spring. Seen them in millimeters etc. I've never had to change one out in any DP that I've owned.
I know I was told I should just part this machine out but I am stubborn and usually exhaust all options before I give up. I am determined. Also how do you measure what size clock spring style you need? Looking online I see them range from what is labeled as a 8" DP to 15" DP spring. Seen them in millimeters etc. I've never had to change one out in any DP that I've owned.
I apologize that you interpreted my comment about what I would do as telling you what you should do. I am not an expert or professional. I rarely offer advice, recommendations, or suggestions; especially on machines like that which I have no first hand experience.
Anyway, this won't help at the moment, but here is a place that has a large variety of flat clock mainspring replacements. There may be something close that may work for drill press return feed springs of that style. http://www.clockworks.com/clock-parts/hole-end-mainsprings.html
Last edited:
No need to apologise at all sir. Every information you all pass to me is very valuable. You all have way more experience in this then I do. Guess I was just explain why I am still asking for information and how too's.
Thanks for the website. I'll take a look..Wonder how hard it would be to fabricate a spring??
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Username that Logo was used for 15 plus years (including overlap on some products) but primarily 1950-1960, so hard to get a specific date. Does it have an original motor? Those often and date codes that could narrow the range. (Keeping in mind the motors were by a different Mfg, and were often added or replaced) by the OP.)
The paint (Lt. blue/Turquoise?) does not look like an original paint. Grey or Gold was the typical King Sealy colors...
The paint (Lt. blue/Turquoise?) does not look like an original paint. Grey or Gold was the typical King Sealy colors...
pinball1966
New member
Hi Fellow Drill Press Model 103.23140 friends.
I'm currently look for a replacement part. the Feed Handel. The knob is fine but the handle broke at the base where it screws into the chrome wheel. Anyone have an extra or know where i can find one.
Thanks, Mike
I'm currently look for a replacement part. the Feed Handel. The knob is fine but the handle broke at the base where it screws into the chrome wheel. Anyone have an extra or know where i can find one.
Thanks, Mike
Does anyone know the original pain color for the 103.0305 DP? I think it's green like an olive green but not 100%. Just received my DP from CA. It made it safe and sound..Haha.. if you all don't mind I'll be posting a bunch of pictures of it Thursday. Maybe you all can help me out and let me know what might be missing or should be replaced. I already know the quill spring is missing. Still on the hunt for one or even an Atlas spring that would fit.
Can't wait to get it apart and clean it up. Along with getting information from you all, the pros.
Can't wait to get it apart and clean it up. Along with getting information from you all, the pros.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Valspar Royal Blue. At least the inside of my 0303 is almost that exact color.
Sent from my VIVO IV using Tapatalk
Valspar Royal Blue. At least the inside of my 0303 is almost that exact color.
Sent from my VIVO IV using Tapatalk
So today I started disassemble of the drill press. The original owner rewired the motor to a two outlet junction box and had a foot pedal hooked to that. The pictures are of the foot pedal and the innards. Has anyone seen a pedal and or switch like this? The switch is a Arrow H&H 5a 125V 10a 250V UNLDLAS. When the post is pressed the roller drops and makes contact to the bottom "hook" to complete the circuit. I'll post pictures of the press tomorrow
Attachments
Re: Chuck Removal and Disassembly
Here is mine. Forgive my ignorance. This is my first time doing this. So is the take down the same as the one you showed us on here?
Here is mine. Forgive my ignorance. This is my first time doing this. So is the take down the same as the one you showed us on here?
Attachments
Re: Chuck Removal and Disassembly
Yes, it should be. Unscrew the collar to force off the Chuck. In the past, I've had to use flat washers between the Chuck and collar because the collar was too near the end of the threads on the spindle collar.
You could also use Jacobs' wedges to remove that style of Chuck.
Yes, it should be. Unscrew the collar to force off the Chuck. In the past, I've had to use flat washers between the Chuck and collar because the collar was too near the end of the threads on the spindle collar.
You could also use Jacobs' wedges to remove that style of Chuck.
Re: Chuck Removal and Disassembly
Never heard of Jacobs wedge but googled them. I am guessing you would unscrew the collar using a pin spanner then drive the wedges to pop the chuck free?
The hole where the pin spanner would go measured 1/4"
Never heard of Jacobs wedge but googled them. I am guessing you would unscrew the collar using a pin spanner then drive the wedges to pop the chuck free?
The hole where the pin spanner would go measured 1/4"
Re: Chuck Removal and Disassembly
Good deal..Thank you sir for putting up with and answering my questions.
Also how do you remove the pulley spindles from the motor and main housing? I removed the three screws but the spindle would not come off the bearrings
Good deal..Thank you sir for putting up with and answering my questions.
Also how do you remove the pulley spindles from the motor and main housing? I removed the three screws but the spindle would not come off the bearrings
Re: Chuck Removal and Disassembly
No problem.
It's been a long time since I've had an Atlas craftsman drill press. I don't recall how that head frame pulley comes off. Someone should be able to help.
Removing the motor pulley depends on several factors. The size of the motor shaft, whether the shaft is keyed, whether the motor is double shafted. There is a relevant link in my first post.
No problem.
It's been a long time since I've had an Atlas craftsman drill press. I don't recall how that head frame pulley comes off. Someone should be able to help.
Removing the motor pulley depends on several factors. The size of the motor shaft, whether the shaft is keyed, whether the motor is double shafted. There is a relevant link in my first post.
Re: Chuck Removal and Disassembly
Thank you again so very much for all the help and your willingness to answer all my questions. You all amaze me with how much knowledge you have. Hope to be there one day. I am sure I'll have more questions and hope I can continue to ask.
I ordered those Jacobs wedges and a spanner wrench so hopefully they will work
Thank you again so very much for all the help and your willingness to answer all my questions. You all amaze me with how much knowledge you have. Hope to be there one day. I am sure I'll have more questions and hope I can continue to ask.
I ordered those Jacobs wedges and a spanner wrench so hopefully they will work
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
The ones in question are the earliest King Seeley models, not Atlas. In case you know more, Frank.
Sent from my VIVO IV using Tapatalk
The ones in question are the earliest King Seeley models, not Atlas. In case you know more, Frank.
Sent from my VIVO IV using Tapatalk
This is the pulley iam trying to remove. Any suggestions? I've removed the three screws. It looks like it just sits in the bearings and the screws hold it on but not 100% sure. So I assuming that it's just old grease "glueing" on. So whatever suggestions you have would be great.
Attachments
Yahooo!! Got the pulley off. So I used a wooden dowel and dead blow hammer. From the underside I put the dowel on the pulley mount where the screws go and gave it some light taps on each screw hole and it finally came off. Now how do I get the bearings off?
The bearings are in great shape but need them off so it can be sandblasted. So how do you take bearings off?
The bearings are in great shape but need them off so it can be sandblasted. So how do you take bearings off?
Attachments
Well just thought I'd share the progress on my journey of my first restoration. Finally got everything off even the bearings. Took all the cast iron parts to the sand blaster so I can work with a clean canvas and had it primered. I have been sanding and polishing parts by hand and painted some of the small parts. I decided to go with a charcoal grey. It's not to light nor to dark. All in all it's been going very smoothly. Will be starting on the case and tables tomorrow.
The part I am most nervous about its Working on the motor. Never ever done one so fingers crossed. I'll post more as I go and thanks again to everyone who's been helping me.
The part I am most nervous about its Working on the motor. Never ever done one so fingers crossed. I'll post more as I go and thanks again to everyone who's been helping me.
Attachments
smalltown
Well-known member
Looking good ndfan6464 !
Thanks buddy!
Well so now I am working in the motor. This part I am most nervous about since I zero experience on. In the pictures you'll see what the motor looks like. I don't need to change out bearings since that are running great. But the wiring looks horrible and as you can see it's packed full of 100 years of dust and grease. Would it be OK to just spray it down with the cleaner I am show in the picture?
Seriously any help on how to clean these up would be much appreciated. The case is in good shape except for a junk that has broken off. It's currently being JB welded.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Now lets not exaggerate, it's only about 80 years of crud! 
And yes, Deoxit should be fine, if expensive. CRC electronics spray is a lot cheaper for that sort of thing.
And yes, Deoxit should be fine, if expensive. CRC electronics spray is a lot cheaper for that sort of thing.
Now lets not exaggerate, it's only about 80 years of crud!
And yes, Deoxit should be fine, if expensive. CRC electronics spray is a lot cheaper for that sort of thing.
LMAO OK 80 years. HAHAH... Thanks for the warm and fuzzy feeling Outlaw. Then I'll just hose it down with this stuff and get it cleaned up...
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nope.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Are you asking about windings? Nope, as it would depend on a lot of variables of design, voltage, power etc.
No. Sorry should have been more specific. The wiring that goes to the on and off switch and from the motor to the "circuit" board. Not sure the name of it but it's a block that has wiring from the windings then to the switch and is mounted on the pulley side..
Looks as if the "curicut" board has the pulley bearing seated in it.