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Craftsman Drill Press

Cruzan80

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I just got the headstock macthed at Sherwin Williams for metal enamel paint. Can get the code posted when I get home. This was a late 150, seems blacker than the early 100 which has more blue. Much closer to my bandsaw (24260) coloring, matched under the headband.

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bubinga

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Frank, I returned today with that early Model 100 bench drill press I mentioned in an earlier post and the one defect I found is as described in these posts I've quoted above. In my case, however, the damage to that one pinion gear tooth has ragged edges that creates a real binding spot in the travel of the quill.

I plan to pull everything about for cleaning and re-lubricating. While I have the pinion gear and quill assembly removed, do you think I would be safe in filing the ragged edges of that tooth back enough so that that doesn't bind on the quill teeth/grooves? I don't want to proceed down a bad path in trying to fix this.

Sorry, no pictures at the moment. Just thought I'd toss the question out to see if you have an immediate opinion.

Thanks!
Triangle file. Never would touch it with a grinder.


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Dremel tool and be careful [emoji41]

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bubinga

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I
I ended up reinstalling the pinion shaft so that dent was in it's original position at the bottom of the quill gear rack. .
Good idea!
This issue reinforces the importance of having a fully-seated and properly tightened feed stop bracket on the quill, and also of never letting go of the feed handle when the quill is extended.
G00D TO KNOW!



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Rushton

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Dremel tool and be careful [emoji41]

That's a thought, but I think it will be easier for me easier to control a triangular file and stay within the profile. I'll have to see how hard those teeth are. If hardened, then a grinding stone in a Dremel might be the solution. Thanks!
 

bubinga

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

That's a thought, but I think it will be easier for me easier to control a triangular file and stay within the profile. I'll have to see how hard those teeth are. If hardened, then a grinding stone in a Dremel might be the solution. Thanks!
Well not going to be mild Steel by any length. Could sharp file probably cut her though albeit slowly.

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Rushton

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With that level of wear/deformation, it's not going to be particularly hard
Sorry to confuse, but the picture I "quoted" was from someone else's post. It is not my pinion gear tooth. I "quoted" it because it illustrated the problem if not the severity. My gear tooth is a bit more chewed up than this one.
 

bubinga

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With that level of wear/deformation, it's not going to be particularly hard

"With that level of wear/deformation, it's not going to be particularly hard"
Why Is That?
Oh, You mean it was soft enough to have been damaged/deformed, easily, so E-Z enough to File?:thumbup:

BTY IMO Outlawmws is "The Man" On machining and repair of machines.
 

bubinga

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

That's a thought, but I think it will be easier for me easier to control a triangular file and stay within the profile. I'll have to see how hard those teeth are. If hardened, then a grinding stone in a Dremel might be the solution. Thanks!
Agreed, always easier to control metal removal with a file.:beer::thumbup:
 

Outlawmws

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That backs up my point. if its hardened, it is unlikely to deform,or wear. crack maybe, but not the other. I'd guess the pinion is not full hardened, and that the Quill is likely to be at least surface hardened to avoid wear as it goes up and down.
 

Rushton

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Now I gotcha! Yes, my guess is that the pinion gears are not hardened and should file easily. I'll provide a report once I get to working on in in a couple of weeks.
 
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FrankLee

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I had a custom paint made for the Craftsman drill press to match the original paint. Hoping it will turn out good :)

I just got the headstock macthed at Sherwin Williams for metal enamel paint. Can get the code posted when I get home. This was a late 150, seems blacker than the early 100 which has more blue. Much closer to my bandsaw (24260) coloring, matched under the headband.

Honza, Cruzan,

Please post the paint brands and formulas with your dp models number here and on wiki-vm, if you're VM members. http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/PaintColorsCraftsman.ashx
 

honza.vosalik

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ZBear

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hi Frank. I haven't been able to look at my DP in maybe a month. They just can't quit cutting stuff off my feet. The wound was pretty much healed on my right foot and I was to get fitted for a $2000 boot to help stabilized the right foot from continuing to roll over. Then it ruptured open behind the old wound into a new wound. Then there was an issue with a toe on my left foot. They removed the 2nd toe on my left foot last week. Can't walk much, just lay in the recliner and wit for the meds to kick in. Angioplasty on Thursday. One Valium. Really?

I still read the forum every couple days and appreciate all the help I received in restoring my drill press. I posted today mainly to do my part pushing the forum to 100 pages.

Thanks, Bear
 
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FrankLee

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hi Frank. I haven't been able to look at my DP in maybe a month. They just can't quit cutting stuff off my feet. The wound was pretty much healed on my right foot and I was to get fitted for a $2000 boot to help stabilized the right foot from continuing to roll over. Then it ruptured open behind the old wound into a new wound. Then there was an issue with a toe on my left foot. They removed the 2nd toe on my left foot last week. Can't walk much, just lay in the recliner and wit for the meds to kick in. Angioplasty on Thursday. One Valium. Really?

I still read the forum every couple days and appreciate all the help I received in restoring my drill press. I posted today mainly to do my part pushing the forum to 100 pages.

Thanks, Bear

Well, I'm glad to hear from you again, but sorry to hear you're still having health issues and haven't been able to work on your DP.

How much have you been able to do on your '56 Chevy?
 

bubinga

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hi Frank. I haven't been able to look at my DP in maybe a month. They just can't quit cutting stuff off my feet. The wound was pretty much healed on my right foot and I was to get fitted for a $2000 boot to help stabilized the right foot from continuing to roll over. Then it ruptured open behind the old wound into a new wound. Then there was an issue with a toe on my left foot. They removed the 2nd toe on my left foot last week. Can't walk much, just lay in the recliner and wit for the meds to kick in. Angioplasty on Thursday. One Valium. Really?

I still read the forum every couple days and appreciate all the help I received in restoring my drill press. I posted today mainly to do my part pushing the forum to 100 pages.
Thanks, Bear
Oh My...................................Sorry to hear.
Get better soon!!:beer:
 

jssierra

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Dec 10, 2012
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I'm hoping someone can help me.
I just picked up a 103.0304 Mohawk drill press. Does anyone have photos of the pinion shaft? The shaft design I have is 15/16" in diameter as it passes through the housing. The handle is straight 1/2" bar without knobs.
The overall shaft length is about 6" and is end slotted for the clock spring. It is not like earlier posted pictures. Those are all later designs.
The shaft is missing the pinion gear. Not sure if it was originally integral to the shaft and repaired or a separate gear was factory pinned to the shaft. Anyhow my gear was pinned or pressed to the shaft and is somehow missing.
What I could really use is the gears outer diameter and number of teeth so I can try to find a replacement gear. Also can anyone confirm that the PA is 14.5 degrees?
Thanks
 
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Rushton

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I sure would like to see a before-repair picture if possible.
I've pulled that damaged pinion gear and quill, pictures below. Fortunately, there is no damage to the quill. As Outlaw suggested, the quill seems to have been hardened while the pinion is very soft.

Three of the pinion gear teeth are affected. I think I'm going to be able to gently tap some gear material back into alignment with the tooth profile and then file the rest to get all of the material back into the original profile for each of these three teeth. We'll see!

model-100-pinion-gear-damage-e1533150225838.jpg


model-100-quill-e1533150249153.jpg
 

ttpete

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That tooth is cracked in the center. That's because the depth stop was set improperly and it allowed the gear to hit the end of the rack teeth on the quill.

That's repairable. It would involve removing the broken metal and building the tooth back up by tig welding, then re-profiling it with files.
 

Rushton

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Thanks, ttpete. It is hard to tell in the photo but the tooth is not actually cracked. The metal is just pulled and folded over giving the appearance of crack lines in that photo. Here are what I hope will be better photos to see what I mean:

model-100-pinion-gear-damage21.jpg


model-100-pinion-gear-damage3.jpg
 
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FrankLee

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It's beautiful, but $1k is still a lot of money.

No kidding. $1000 is a delusional pipe-dream.

I've had two machines that nice and both had better tables; DP#7 and dp#32.

It took a very long time to sell dp#7 for $300. Dp#32 sold for more than dp#7, but with an MSA, vise, foot switch and delivered and set-up.
 
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Outlawmws

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Yeah, I think someone is dreaming, and too bad about the hole saw damage to the table... Not quite an arc of shame but dang stupid of someone to do that...
 

bubinga

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Yeah, I think someone is dreaming, and too bad about the hole saw damage to the table... Not quite an arc of shame but dang stupid of someone to do that...
l know................I dont understand people either?
WTH are they watching (Not watching)
We had a young fellow at the state road equipment garage, The welder has the DP on auto feed (Nice DP BTY)
He told the young fellow to 'Watch the Drill press feed" while he (the welder) was doing something else.
he came back and the boy was standing there "Watching it" meanwhile it was drilling into the DP vise.:shocking::shocking::headscrat:headscrat
 
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FrankLee

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dp#44, dp#35 refurb

Here is dp#44. I picked this one up on July 7 at an estate sale. The price was very right! It's a 15" Atlas, but the model tag was removed, so I'm not sure of the exact model number. I hope to flip this one as-is.




Below is dp#35 which I bought last August 15. I had it torn down and media blasted (I still owe that debt, btw!). Earlier this year, I thought I had it sold as a project, but that sale never materialized.




So, here it is completely refurbished... just finished this morning. Damn, it runs nice!




8/14/2018

I sold dp#44 this afternoon.
 
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lafester

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Nice! I like the looks of those atlas models.
Could you possibly tell me the distance between the posts on the motor mount? Thanks


Here is dp#44. I picked this one up on July 7 at an estate sale. The price was very right! It's a 15" Atlas, but the model tag was removed, so I'm not sure of the exact model number. I hope to flip this one as-is.




Below is dp#35 which I bought last August 15. I had it torn down and media blasted (I still owe that debt, btw!). Earlier this year, I thought I had it sold as a project, but that sale never materialized.




So, here it is completely refurbished... just finished this morning. Damn, it runs nice!

 
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FrankLee

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Nice! I like the looks of those atlas models.
Could you possibly tell me the distance between the posts on the motor mount? Thanks

The posts on the Atlas cast iron motor mounts are 4-1/16" apart, o.c.

Atlas also made a pressed steel motor mount where the posts can be adjusted between 4-1/16" and 3-3/8" apart o.c.

The posts on both styles are 3/4" dia.
 
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454ragtop

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The posts on the Atlas cast iron motor mounts are 4-1/16" apart, o.c.

Atlas also made a pressed steel motor mount where the posts can be adjusted between 4-1/16" and 3-3/8" apart o.c.

The posts on both styles are 3/4" dia.

They also made a cast iron motor mount with the 3-3/8" C-C distance, have one here.
 

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Rushton

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Update on those pinion gear teeth: FrankLee had a pinion that was in much better shape than the one I'd posted about and he was willing to sell it for a very fair price. So rather than investing time trying to re-shape my chowdered pinion, I got his which is now installed in my hub and I'm moving on to putting this Model 100 back into shape. Thanks for the comments and suggestions!

Now that I've cleaned the head, I can see that the original paint is not in as beautiful condition as I'd first thought, but it is serviceable and will not be re-painted. I like keeping the original paint when possible, and that will be the case with this machine. It has over 70 years of character! Instead, it is getting a good cleaning with paste wax for protection.
 

lafester

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Can't agree more about the paint. I absolutely hate painting but will do it if it has already been painted over... even then I hesitate when I have it cleaned up and has that cool naked look.
 

Rushton

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It is interesting to see the variations in original paint over the years. This Model 100 was built in 1946 and the original paint color has more blue in it than the later dark gray that we're used to. It's still gray, but more of a blue-gray than a black-gray.
 
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