Craftsman Drill Press

[BlueHeart]

Here is dp#44. I picked this one up on July 7 at an estate sale. The price was very right! It's a 15" Atlas, but the model tag was removed, so I'm not sure of the exact model number. I hope to flip this one as-is.

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Below is dp#35 which I bought last August 15. I had it torn down and media blasted (I still owe that debt, btw!). Earlier this year, I thought I had it sold as a project, but that sale never materialized.

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So, here it is completely refurbished... just finished this morning. Damn, it runs nice!

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Looks incredible! I'm glad you moved forward with the resto/refurbishment.
I've been avoiding GJ since late June. I found that I had become obsessed with vintage tools and purchasing them all while letting other priorities lapse.
Some things are better on the home front while some of the projects still need some attention before diving back into the abyss of GJ. I hope all of you have been enjoying the summer and I look forward to seeing more of the excellent posts here, especially from FrankLee.

 

[ZBear]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Oh My...................................Sorry to hear.
Get better soon!!

I spent a week plus in the hospital. Missing another toe and foot is pretty sore because of three surgeries while I was a resident. Lots of antibiotics. Tough to try to get around with boots on both feet, but you you play the hand dealt. I was able to get to my desk this morning and saw this ad on local Facebook Marketplace, just in case anyone has a couple grand laying around for a drill press.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/261635244566285

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I spent a week plus in the hospital. Missing another toe and foot is pretty sore because of three surgeries while I was a resident. Lots of antibiotics. Tough to try to get around with boots on both feet, but you you play the hand dealt. I was able to get to my desk this morning and saw this ad on local Facebook Marketplace, just in case anyone has a couple grand laying around for a drill press.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/261635244566285

Good thoughts coming your way. Glad to hear you're able to move around some.


That's an "interesting" drill press with a humorous description; an autocorrect, I assume.

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8/21/2018

Now only $1500!

 

[Rushton]

An update and a question about runout... I've finished cleaning, lubricating and re-assembling that Model 100. I kept the original paint even though its a bit worn. With a good coat of paste wax, I think it looks quite serviceable. Certainly shows 70-years of character.

And I kept on it one of the more intelligent caution signs I've seen recently:

My question for the group is about the runout I'm measuring in the chuck/spindle. I know this machine was built as a consumer woodworking machine and not as a machinist tool; still, I'd love to get some tighter tolerances if practical to do so. I've not replaced any of the bearings, only cleaned and lubricated the pulley shaft bearings; nothing done with the spindle bearings which seemed to turn smoothly and quietly.

The spindle/quill has some side-to-side movement when pushed by hand, a bit under 10-thousandths. I'm guessing this is from wear in the machined holes in the head through which the quill travels and there's nothing to be done for that??

When turning the chuck, I'm seeing about 20-thousandths runout even after turning the chuck by 60-degree increments to get the lowest I can manage. The chuck jaws don't show any damage or excessive wear.

Any thoughts?

 

[Outlawmws]

Run you indicator on the outside on the lower chuck, and see if its still 20 thou. If it's less, clean the chuck parts and lightly lube and try again.

The looseness of the quill may be a contributor as well

 

[Rushton]

Thanks, Outlaw. I'll try that.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Take the chuck off and measure at the taper.

Here is mine and it’s like 0.0002”

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[Rushton]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Take the chuck off and measure at the taper.

Here is mine and it’s like 0.0002”

That's beauty to behold! Thanks for the additional suggestion.

 

[Rushton]

Well, this has been very educational. I pulled off the chuck and measured at the base of the spindle as sheltonfilms suggested. That measurement is less than 1 thousandth. Movement of the quill measured here is still 4-5 thousandths.

Then I cleaned, lubricated and re-mounted the chuck, as Outlaw suggested, and measured at the base of the chuck. That is less than 3 thousandths. The chuck housing has a modest amount of slop in it, however.

I then replaced a drill for the burnishing rod I was using to measure mounted into the chuck. Measuring 1" down the shank of the drill, the runout measured at less than 10 thousandths. I can live with that.

So, much of the runout I was measuring came from not using a machined true rod for testing and other runout simply comes from some slop in the chuck, which I'm assuming will have to be-what-it-will-be because I don't want to invest in a new chuck that might or might not be better than this one and I know I don't want to invest in a several hundred dollar precision chuck.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[FrankLee]

One final suggestion, and maybe you did this, but when you tighten the bit, tighten on all three holes in the chuck. You should feel it tighten just a bit on the second and third holes. Then, measure again.

 

[Rushton]

Frank, excellent suggestion. This is how I do it.

 

[paulm12]

Frank (and others): I will finally get some time soon to reassemble my CMan 100 drill press. Is there a preferred method (install head first, then install parts, etc) for this? I have repainted the castings, cleaned the internal parts, and purchased all new bearings. Thanks.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank (and others): I will finally get some time soon to reassemble my CMan 100 drill press. Is there a preferred method (install head first, then install parts, etc) for this? I have repainted the castings, cleaned the internal parts, and purchased all new bearings. Thanks.

I've reassembled several ways;

• head frame on column
• head frame on bench for all sub-assembly installs
• head frame on bench for quill and pinion installs

Each has advantages and disadvantages.

I find it easiest to assemble the head frame while it's on a bench resting on the motor-mount back side.

On several occasions, I forgot to install the outer snap ring. I didn't realize it until I found the extra part.


If you have the tilt table, it's easier to install the table support and table lock first on the column. Then the table, tilt lock, taper pin and protractor badge.


Quite a while back, I commandeered an old 14" lazy susan from my wife. I found it very useful for dismantling, painting and reassembling head frames and motors. I have since removed it's 8" base with 3" bearing plate, bought a 12" bearing plate on Amazon and made new bases for both. The large and small lazy susans come in very handy for many different projects.

 

[paulm12]

thanks Frank.

 

[Craptain]

.


Quite a while back, I commandeered an old 14" lazy susan from my wife. I found it very useful for dismantling, painting and reassembling head frames and motors. I have since removed it's 8" base with 3" bearing plate, bought a 12" bearing plate on Amazon and made new bases for both. The large and small lazy susans come in very handy for many different projects.

I use one also. I have a 12 bearing with a 36 x 36 melamine board on it. In a limited space it is wonderful for painting, assembly, disassembly and many other jobs that require access to all sides.

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[ZBear]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Well, I'm glad to hear from you again, but sorry to hear you're still having health issues and haven't been able to work on your DP.

How much have you been able to do on your '56 Chevy?

I am on the shelf for the remainder of the year. No motorcycles, no truck. I was told my only concern is to keep from losing my foot. I am 95% ready to run the truck. I got the Holley back and it needs to be bolted on. I have a new HEI distributor and I need it clocked and wires put on and I think it is ready to fire up. I need to find someone that can come to the house and finish it up so I can get anti-freeze in it. Snow is only a few weeks away. I thought I had a picture on my computer of the doors after the guy made a decal. It was to honor my grandfather when he moved onto the family farm. He had to make me part of the decal again. It said Establised 1919 when it should have had Established spelled with an "h". I am glad I got the drill press restored this winter. I was able to use it a couple times and it is really great. Thanks for all you help, Bear

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I am on the shelf for the remainder of the year. No motorcycles, no truck. I was told my only concern is to keep from losing my foot. I am 95% ready to run the truck. I got the Holley back and it needs to be bolted on. I have a new HEI distributor and I need it clocked and wires put on and I think it is ready to fire up. I need to find someone that can come to the house and finish it up so I can get anti-freeze in it. Snow is only a few weeks away. I thought I had a picture on my computer of the doors after the guy made a decal. It was to honor my grandfather when he moved onto the family farm. He had to make me part of the decal again. It said Establised 1919 when it should have had Established spelled with an "h". I am glad I got the drill press restored this winter. I was able to use it a couple times and it is really great. Thanks for all you help, Bear

Godspeed on your journey back to health. Everything else is just stuff.... it'll get done eventually. Hopefully you can get the help you need sooner than later.

 

[FrankLee]

dp#45 - Start to Finish

Yesterday, I picked up dp#45, an early 150, model 103.24531. It's pretty dirty, but in decent shape with a very good table top. I think the motor may be pre-war, but it runs good. I paid more than I wanted, but the seller was a nice older guy.

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I have it dismantled and spent a couple hours today cleaning parts. I discovered that the spindle was ~1/16" short of being fully seated into the quill bearings, and the spindle washer is over-compressed. This is another first-time issue for me. It's probably a matter of simply pressing the spindle further into the bearings, but I'll have to investigate this more.

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Here's an "interesting" mod I discovered. A previous owner drilled into the column locking shoe and removed the last few threads of the locking bolt. The end of the bolt fits into the hole, but for what purpose? I have no idea what he was trying to accomplish.

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8/19/2018

Most of the internal parts are cleaned. I got the spindle fully pressed into the quill bearings with (almost) no problems.

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I also installed a new cord on this '57 motor that I'll be installing on this machine. This is not the motor that came with it, but it matches the age and color of the machine much better.

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Below is the head frame panel. Mineral spirits didn't touch that grime, but Meguiar's Cleaner Wax did a very nice job!

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8/20/2018

Today, I started cleaning the cast iron parts. The paint on the head frame casting cleaned well.

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The paint on the table, not so much, but the table top is very nice!

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... The column is in really nice shape, should clean up nicely. ...

Before I went to see this drill press, I was looking at the seller's pictures and thought it was rather odd that the condition of the column did not match the condition of the other parts. When I went to see it, the seller explained that he sanded the column to clean it up some, but he only cleaned the visible portions. There is still plenty to clean, but it should be just a little easier.

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8/21/2018

This morning, I disassembled, cleaned, polished and reassembled the chuck. I will finish cleaning the chuck sleeve when I get the chuck installed and spinning with the machine running.

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I also finished cleaning the machined and tapped bores in the head frame and started reassembly. Final head frame assembly will occur with the head frame installed on the column.

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The feed handle rods were in particularly bad shape. I soaked them in vinegar and was able to clean the rust off the exterior of the chrome plating, but the plating still had a coarse texture. I hit the rods with a wire wheel and most of the plating easily removed which exposed rust underneath. I cleaned and polished with various grades of sandpaper followed by a paste wax. The knobs were also polished. Beautiful!

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8/22/2018

This morning, I tackled the column and base.

The column looks very good, but it wasn't that bad to start with.

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The base was bad and it's only marginally better after cleaning.

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Things went quickly today and I completed reassembly. It looks good and it runs beautifully!

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[Tano]

I really like the gold/champagne painted DP's, to me they have less of an industrial feel. Having worked in machine shops in my prior life, I have seen enough battleship grey machinery to last a life time. The column is in really nice shape, should clean up nicely. That table is a great find.

 

[bubinga]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Godspeed on your journey back to health. Everything else is just stuff.... it'll get done eventually. Hopefully you can get the help you need sooner than later.

yes, Sorry, Hope you get/feel better soon.
You've been through A lot.

 

[Tano]

Re: dp#45 - Start to Finish

I am curious what you use or do to clean up the pulleys? they look great and that has always been an issue for me. Also, the Handle Hub looked pretty rough in the before, that after looks amazing, any tips on how you did that?

 

[FrankLee]

Re: dp#45 - Start to Finish

I am curious what you use or do to clean up the pulleys? they look great and that has always been an issue for me. Also, the Handle Hub looked pretty rough in the before, that after looks amazing, any tips on how you did that?

For the inside cavities on the pulleys I usually use Simple Green with a tooth brush. Sometimes, mineral spirits if greasy grimy.

On the horizontal pulley step surfaces, I usually use #000 steel wool, or sometimes #1 steel wool.

Quite often there is black pitch on the pulley steps from the old rubberized belts. Lacquer thinner usually does a good job to remove that pitch.

That hub was very dirty, but that cleaned well using #000 steel wool with WD-40, then cleaner wax. They all seem to be very different, some have excellent chrome, some are very pitted, some were painted for the '52 and '53 model years.

Here is a tutorial on my feed handle rod clean-up procedure.

 

[Tano]

Re: dp#45 - Start to Finish

For the inside cavities on the pulleys I usually use Simple Green with a tooth brush. Sometimes, mineral spirits if greasy grimy.

On the horizontal pulley step surfaces, I usually use #000 steel wool, or sometimes #1 steel wool.

Quite often there is black pitch on the pulley steps from the old rubberized belts. Lacquer thinner usually does a good job to remove that pitch.

That hub was very dirty, but that cleaned well using #000 steel wool with WD-40, then cleaner wax. They all seem to be very different, some have excellent chrome, some are very pitted, some were painted for the '52 and '53 model years.

Here is a tutorial on my feed handle rod clean-up procedure.

That is very helpful, I am going to try your suggestions this weekend. I have referenced the handle cleanup post. again, very helpful, i switched some of my methods to yours with very good results.

 

[FrankLee]

Craftsman Shaper 103.23920

I picked up my next project yesterday... a Craftsman shaper, model 103.23920. It's in rough shape, but was well worth the $20 gamble.

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That stand is very heavy, very dirty and destined for the scrapper.

The spindle was seized in the quill, but eventually broke loose. Despite it's condition, everything came apart with minimal effort using the correct tools.

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9/4/2018

The refurb is going well.

The spindle/quill assembly is cleaned and partially reassembled. Like I said above, the bearings were seized, but freed-up after working it for a just a little while. I removed the seals from the bearings, cleaned the bearings and seals in my sonic cleaner, repacked and reinstalled the seals. The bearings are in excellent shape with no slop!

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The cast iron parts cleaned up better than I expected. The table top has just a few small areas of very minor pitting.

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9/5/2018

The belt guard is pressed steel and was particularly nasty. I cleaned it with Simple Green and a small scrub brush, but the finish was still very coarse. Cleaner wax didn't help much, so I wet sanded it with 1000 grit paper. That didn't replace the missing paint, but it did the most good. After a coat of wax, I think it looks pretty good!

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The fence frame is cast aluminum, has very splotchy paint and had a lot of stuck-on wood resin. I also cleaned this part with Simple Green and had to let it soak in hot water to loosen the resin. This is as good as it's going to get.

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The table/base assembly is back together.

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The motor. Ugh. Like the rest of this machine, the motor was in rough shape; lots of saw dust inside, rusty exterior, fubar switch and cracked base. I also think the capacitor is getting weak. This motor is a '52 model 115.7429, 1/2 hp, and 3540 rpm.

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I didn't really want to crack it open, but I did... very reluctantly. It cleaned up ok, but when I reassembled, I pinched and severed both capacitor wires when I installed the end cap. So back apart to repair those wires. I rigged up a cord to test and it runs fine.

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I have a replacement switch, but it's the newer threaded toggle switch instead of the square switch. I'll have to fab a plate to mount the new switch.

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9/6/2018

The motor is complete. The new switch is installed, the center band was soaked in vinegar to remove the rust and a new grounded cord installed. It's not a looker, but it runs strong.

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9/8/2018

Today, I finished and installed the fence.

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The refurb is complete except for the motor. I had to order a new capacitor. When installed, the motor would not start under load without manual intervention. I believe that's why the previous owner had a second pulley installed on the lower motor shaft... so he could give it a turn to get the motor going.

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Overall, it turned out very nice for sitting idle since 1991.

I'm missing just a handful of parts (numbers are from the owners manual):

• the guide post #32
• the insert disk #33
• the holding finger #41
• a holding bar #42
• a holding bracket #44
• cutters

 

[sheltonfilms]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Got to love the ones that need a little love. Allows you to put more “you” into it.


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[bubinga]

Keep Us Posted.
That's nice!

 

[honza.vosalik]

I finally finished my Craftsman 100 this weekend

 

[Smokeshow69]

I finally finished my Craftsman 100 this weekend

Very nice restoration! That will serve you well for years to come. Do you happen to have any extra varislow parts by chance ?


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[bubinga]

I finally finished my Craftsman 100 this weekend

Very nice restoration! That will serve you well for years to come. Do you happen to have any extra varislow parts by chance ?


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Yeah, Looks Great!!
Lucky You!
Finding the Varislow.

 

[honza.vosalik]

Very nice restoration! That will serve you well for years to come. Do you happen to have any extra varislow parts by chance ?


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

No, sorry.

 

[Smokeshow69]

No, sorry.

No worries... I figured not but you never know. I do have a wanted ad posted on Owwm.com


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[IdahoMan]

I picked up my next project yesterday... a Craftsman shaper, model 103.23920. It's in rough shape, but was well worth the $20 gamble.

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The spindle was seized in the quill, but eventually broke loose. Despite it's condition, everything came apart with minimal effort using the correct tools.

​

9/4/2018

The refurb is going well. The spindle/quill assembly is cleaned and partially reassembled.

The cast iron parts cleaned up better than I expected. The table top has just a few small areas of minor pitting.

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That cleaned up nicely. Wire-wheel, Scoth-Bright pad?

 

[FrankLee]

That cleaned up nicely. Wire-wheel, Scoth-Bright pad?

On the painted surfaces, I gently scrubbed with a thick green Scotch Brite pad with mineral spirits. Then, followed up with liquid Zud cleanser and a small plastic scrub brush.

The table top had a thick layer of surface rust. I first sprayed it down with WD-40 and scraped much of that rust layer off with a razor blade. I sprayed again with WD-40 and used a finishing sander with 320 grit paper. I never tried wet sanding with WD-40. It worked ok, but I believe dry sanding would have work as well.

A small block of particle board wrapped in sandpaper worked well in the miter slot. Particle board is slightly thinner than 3/4" plywood.

 

[bubinga]

That cleaned up nicely. Wire-wheel, Scoth-Bright pad?

Looks Great! Frank!
The Table is beautiful!

 

[bubinga]

On the painted surfaces, I gently scrubbed with a thick green Scotch Brite pad with mineral spirits. Then, followed up with liquid Zud cleanser and a small plastic scrub brush.

The table top had a thick layer of surface rust. I first sprayed it down with WD-40 and scraped much of that rust layer off with a razor blade. I sprayed again with WD-40 and used a finishing sander with 320 grit paper. I never tried wet sanding with WD-40. It worked ok, but I believe dry sanding would have work as well.

A small block of particle board wrapped in sandpaper worked well in the miter slot. Particle board is slightly thinner than 3/4" plywood.

Yeah, Had some surface rust on my disk sander table (My Fault)
That razor blade did wonders to remove the rust, actually used a Utility knife blade, as that's what I had handy.
going to follow up with some fine paper on My Old ROS

 

[smashburn]

Hi there. I just inherited my grandfathers vintage craftsman drill press. I believe its a 1948 model. I was curious about it because it has a round base on it. The slots are the same as the ones I see here but the base is heavy cast iron in a perfect circle about 3 foot diameter. Is this an original base? There is no tag on it.

 

[Outlawmws]

Hi there. I just inherited my grandfathers vintage craftsman drill press. I believe its a 1948 model. I was curious about it because it has a round base on it. The slots are the same as the ones I see here but the base is heavy cast iron in a perfect circle about 3 foot diameter. Is this an original base? There is no tag on it.

Did you intend to provide pics?

 

[FrankLee]

Hi there. I just inherited my grandfathers vintage craftsman drill press. I believe its a 1948 model. I was curious about it because it has a round base on it. The slots are the same as the ones I see here but the base is heavy cast iron in a perfect circle about 3 foot diameter. Is this an original base? There is no tag on it.

Welcome!

I'm assuming the slots you refer to are on the table in an X pattern. That round base would not have been original to a King-Seeley Craftsman 100 drill press.

Yeah, let's see some pictures!

 

[FrankLee]

I finally finished my Craftsman 100 this weekend

Beautiful work, Honza!

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marquee

 

[ZBear]

Seen this critter in Davenport for $60. Looks like it would be a good project for $60 if I wasn't laid up.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/242049896505566/?ref=netego_ssfy_www