Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Yes, that's the Emerson 2nd gen. I'm thinking they were first offered in '67, but no proof. Their 1st gen was the 150, virtually identical to the King-Seeley last gen.
I can't dispute the "built like a tank" quality. And free is always a huge bonus. I just don't care for the styling, especially the belt cover. Those tables are very nice. I save those for grinder stands.
I'm still trying to figure out the quill gear rack discrepancies in the Emersons. Below is another and better picture showing the shorter gear rack from a 3rd gen Emerson. I don't get it.
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lafester
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I'm pulling apart a 3rd gen right now if you would like some pics or measurements.
I'm pulling apart a 3rd gen right now if you would like some pics or measurements.
lafester
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
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Here you go
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Attachments
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
There is no '67 catalog when I believe the 2nd gen Emerson dp was first available.
The '68-'69 catalogs show a 6" spindle travel for the 2nd gen Emersons.
The '70-'72 catalogs show a 4" spindle travel for the 3rd gen Emersons.
Thanks for posting!
So, my earlier assumption about 2nd and 3rd gen quills being the same was incorrect.
Your quill has the same tooth count, and therefore the same 4" spindle travel as the 100/150 series machines.
There is no '67 catalog when I believe the 2nd gen Emerson dp was first available.
The '68-'69 catalogs show a 6" spindle travel for the 2nd gen Emersons.
The '70-'72 catalogs show a 4" spindle travel for the 3rd gen Emersons.
Thanks for posting!
So, my earlier assumption about 2nd and 3rd gen quills being the same was incorrect.
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sai5021
Member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Marc, I used this degreaser - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015KROXU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for 90% of cleaning. Then I repainted. Thanks for your kind words!
Frank, I got some quick photos of the inside of that motor.
If you need me to do a deep dive on it and take more just let me know. My knowledge of electric motors is so limited it's laughable. Using this project as a method of learning. Any insight is welcome!
Marc, I used this degreaser - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015KROXU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for 90% of cleaning. Then I repainted. Thanks for your kind words!
Thank you!
Frank, I got some quick photos of the inside of that motor.
If you need me to do a deep dive on it and take more just let me know. My knowledge of electric motors is so limited it's laughable. Using this project as a method of learning. Any insight is welcome!
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
If you feel the motor is fubar, you have nothing to lose in attempting to repair it. It would be a great learning experience either way.
You will likely need a puller to remove the rotor from that end cap.
My only other suggestion is to set the stator on the steel sides and not the coils.
IMO, that is very fixable with a soldering gun, some shrink tubing and pieces of 16 gauge wire and crimped wire connectors. I can help with different color insulated wire if you need.
If you feel the motor is fubar, you have nothing to lose in attempting to repair it. It would be a great learning experience either way.
You will likely need a puller to remove the rotor from that end cap.
My only other suggestion is to set the stator on the steel sides and not the coils.
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lafester
Well-known member
lafester
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
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So... Would it be possible to swap the 2nd gen spindle and pulleys into a 3rd gen head?
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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
For the quill/spindle, there are a handful of considerations...
For the spindle pulley...
Having said all that, here is the seller's photo of my dp#28. I don't recall which quill/spindle assembly was in this machine, but I suspect it was the original 2nd gen version.
Maybe.
For the quill/spindle, there are a handful of considerations...
- Will the 2nd gen spindle fit with the 3rd gen plastic belt cover?
The 2nd gen spindle is 19". IIRC, the 3rd gen spindle is 17". - Will the 2nd gen spindle splines fit into the 3rd gen pulley splines?
I think so, but I have had problems swapping 100 quill/spindle assemblies into 150 pulleys. - Will the 2nd gen spindle feed out of the 3rd gen pulley splines?
Not likely, but? - Will the 2nd gen quill feed out of the upper quill guide in the 3rd gen head frame casting?
The space between the quill guides in the 2nd gen casting is ~1-3/8". I don't know the spacing of the quill guides in the 3rd gen castings. - Will the spring handle the extra torsion of a longer quill gear rack?
It should. The same spring was used from late K-S 150's to 4th gen Emersons. I have seen plenty of springs adjusted with too much torsion, so it could be a factor.
For the spindle pulley...
- The bearings on the 2nd gen and 3rd gen pulleys are the same part number, so that's not an issue.
- The bearing spacing IS different.
The bearing spacer on the 2nd gen pulley is 1" tall. The bearing spacer on the 3rd gen pulley is 1-7/16" tall. Some kind a modification may be required, depending on which direction the swap is going.
Having said all that, here is the seller's photo of my dp#28. I don't recall which quill/spindle assembly was in this machine, but I suspect it was the original 2nd gen version.
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Thank you FrankLee, I had seen that one, and not sure about it. I believe I will give it a shot. A little pricey, and I will probably have ti cut the rod down, but really could use it if you think so. Sounds like you have more experience in these matters than I do.
dp#88
I picked up dp#88 this morning from a fbmp ad. It's an Atlas Craftsman model 101.03680 with the alfa-class belt cover.
The seller owned it only for a couple years and never used it. He never tested it before listing it and it was my good fortune that the motor didn't run. I got it for a very good price!
It came with a small vise and box with eight or so chucks; two are nos in boxes. The belt cover is complete and in good shape.
Besides the motor, there are a few issues:
8/30/2020
Many of my drill presses have had WTF issues and dp#88 is included on that list.
A previous owner installed a strip of aluminum between the table and table support, but only on the top edge. He attached a chain to the strip to hold the chuck key. That skewed the table greater than 90 degrees to the column, so the front of the table tilted down.
In addition, the column was partially inserted into the head frame only just above the head frame lock and not through the upper column bore. This skewed the spindle.
With the table and the spindle out of alignment, it's anyone's guess how far off from perpendicular holes were drilled.
I got much of the head frame dismantled and discovered that the feed stop bracket was broken and brazed back together.
I sprayed the base/column with PBlaster for tomorrow.
8/31/2020
I finished dismantling the head frame... the switch, the grease fitting and the badge. I got to use my panel screw remover again, and again, it did a great job to safely remove the badge.
I got the table apart to get that shim out.
I took a quick look at the motor. I cut the cord to the Atlas switch at the seller's place to remove it. This morning, I removed the motor from the mount, the pulley from the shaft, spliced that cut portion together, plugged it in and hit the switch. After a big spark, it fired up and ran well. I needs a thorough cleaning and obviously some wiring work.
I got the column out of the base. It took a bit of work with a bfh and a 2x4, but it finally surrendered after what seemed like several hundred whacks.
I looked over the box of chucks. Some are unusable, but there were two nos Jacobs chucks; a 22B with 0-3/8" capacity and threaded 3/8-24, and a 33B with 5/64-1/2" capacity and also threaded 3/8-24.
I've often needed 1/2" capacity in a hand drill, but never had it. So, I swapped a small chuck in an older Makita hammer drill with the larger 33B 1/2" Jacobs.
I also dismantled the Companion vise for cleaning.
9/2/2020
There a few subtle engineering differences between the Atlas made Craftsman drill presses and the King-Seeley made Craftsman drill presses.
One difference is the design of how bearing pre-load is achieved. In K-S machines, a spindle collar compresses a rubber washer abutting the inner race of the upper quill bearing. In Atlas machines, the upper 3/8" of the quill has internal threads. A externally threaded nut is tightened against the outer race of the upper bearing. In addition, a collar with set screw is attached to the spindle somewhat similar to the K-S design.
I've had several Atlas machines and I've never been able to remove that bearing nut. This time, with a 1/8" bit, I drilled through the wrench slots down to the outer race. That nut would still not budge. I then drilled a 1/8" hole through the quill to the nut threads. With a small punch, I was able to crack the nut. After that, the nut backed out easily.
Before I reassembled, I drilled a shallow hole in the spindle and mimicked the K-S design with a rubber washer.
Another difference is the spindle pulley. The K-S pulley is a one piece with the internal splines at the bottom of the shaft. The Atlas design is two pieces. The cast pulley has the splines inside the top pulley step and a set screw for a steel shaft. The shaft with bearings is secured to the head casting with a round plate. A common problem with this design is that the set screw will back out.
To remedy that. I sanded a flat on the bearing shaft and will use thread locker on the set screw. Notice the set screw witness marks. There were probably six marks around the shaft.
9/5/2020
Below left are the original SKF bearings from dp#88. The bearings on the right are from another Atlas dp. I'm going to reuse the bearing shaft (above photo) from these bearings on dp#88.
I'm not sure what design these are. The other side is shielded. The visible side is partially shielded and partially open so they can be lubricated while still installed.
I cleaned another used set of spindle pulley bearings in the same sizes; 6204 and 6205. These are also SKF, but had the typical shields. One shield was removed for cleaning.
I got the head frame re-assembled enough to test it. It runs beautifully!
9/6/2020
Most of the time, I prefer not to reuse panel screws. Instead, I will drill and tap for machine screws. The panel screws securing the "Craftsman" badge are very small. In addition, they are countersunk for the 3-D badge. I re-drilled the holes with a #42 bit and tapped for 4-40 screws. I was a little nervous tapping that small, but I went slow and backed out often.
My Ace hardware store had this size flat-head screw in stock. The fit was perfect.
Dp#87 came with a late-'60s motor with no switch. Because it has a built-in switch in the had frame, I'll use the '60's motor on dp#88. To make the motor easily removable, I installed this 2-pin connector.
9/14/2020
Dp#88 is coming along slowly. I changed plans somewhat and bought dp#91 for some parts swapping.
I'm going to use the pulley cover, base and column from dp#91 to convert dp#88 to a bench-top model. To do so, I have to repaint the pulley cover and base. I found this Rustoleum 2X paint in Evening Navy that is not too far off; not perfect, but close enough.
I'm also going to juggle some motors.
I picked up dp#88 this morning from a fbmp ad. It's an Atlas Craftsman model 101.03680 with the alfa-class belt cover.
The seller owned it only for a couple years and never used it. He never tested it before listing it and it was my good fortune that the motor didn't run. I got it for a very good price!
It came with a small vise and box with eight or so chucks; two are nos in boxes. The belt cover is complete and in good shape.
Besides the motor, there are a few issues:
- one original feed handle knob was replaced with a wooden knob
- the spindle thrust collar is missing
- one motor mount bolt was drilled out via hack job
- the original paint on the head frame casting and the cast iron cover mount is actually very good. More than half of the original paint on the cast aluminum cover is missing. Some original paint remains on the table, but the base is all rust.
8/30/2020
Many of my drill presses have had WTF issues and dp#88 is included on that list.
A previous owner installed a strip of aluminum between the table and table support, but only on the top edge. He attached a chain to the strip to hold the chuck key. That skewed the table greater than 90 degrees to the column, so the front of the table tilted down.
In addition, the column was partially inserted into the head frame only just above the head frame lock and not through the upper column bore. This skewed the spindle.
With the table and the spindle out of alignment, it's anyone's guess how far off from perpendicular holes were drilled.
I got much of the head frame dismantled and discovered that the feed stop bracket was broken and brazed back together.
I sprayed the base/column with PBlaster for tomorrow.
8/31/2020
I finished dismantling the head frame... the switch, the grease fitting and the badge. I got to use my panel screw remover again, and again, it did a great job to safely remove the badge.
I got the table apart to get that shim out.
I took a quick look at the motor. I cut the cord to the Atlas switch at the seller's place to remove it. This morning, I removed the motor from the mount, the pulley from the shaft, spliced that cut portion together, plugged it in and hit the switch. After a big spark, it fired up and ran well. I needs a thorough cleaning and obviously some wiring work.
I got the column out of the base. It took a bit of work with a bfh and a 2x4, but it finally surrendered after what seemed like several hundred whacks.
I looked over the box of chucks. Some are unusable, but there were two nos Jacobs chucks; a 22B with 0-3/8" capacity and threaded 3/8-24, and a 33B with 5/64-1/2" capacity and also threaded 3/8-24.
I've often needed 1/2" capacity in a hand drill, but never had it. So, I swapped a small chuck in an older Makita hammer drill with the larger 33B 1/2" Jacobs.
I also dismantled the Companion vise for cleaning.
9/2/2020
There a few subtle engineering differences between the Atlas made Craftsman drill presses and the King-Seeley made Craftsman drill presses.
One difference is the design of how bearing pre-load is achieved. In K-S machines, a spindle collar compresses a rubber washer abutting the inner race of the upper quill bearing. In Atlas machines, the upper 3/8" of the quill has internal threads. A externally threaded nut is tightened against the outer race of the upper bearing. In addition, a collar with set screw is attached to the spindle somewhat similar to the K-S design.
I've had several Atlas machines and I've never been able to remove that bearing nut. This time, with a 1/8" bit, I drilled through the wrench slots down to the outer race. That nut would still not budge. I then drilled a 1/8" hole through the quill to the nut threads. With a small punch, I was able to crack the nut. After that, the nut backed out easily.
Before I reassembled, I drilled a shallow hole in the spindle and mimicked the K-S design with a rubber washer.
Another difference is the spindle pulley. The K-S pulley is a one piece with the internal splines at the bottom of the shaft. The Atlas design is two pieces. The cast pulley has the splines inside the top pulley step and a set screw for a steel shaft. The shaft with bearings is secured to the head casting with a round plate. A common problem with this design is that the set screw will back out.
To remedy that. I sanded a flat on the bearing shaft and will use thread locker on the set screw. Notice the set screw witness marks. There were probably six marks around the shaft.
9/5/2020
Below left are the original SKF bearings from dp#88. The bearings on the right are from another Atlas dp. I'm going to reuse the bearing shaft (above photo) from these bearings on dp#88.
I'm not sure what design these are. The other side is shielded. The visible side is partially shielded and partially open so they can be lubricated while still installed.
I cleaned another used set of spindle pulley bearings in the same sizes; 6204 and 6205. These are also SKF, but had the typical shields. One shield was removed for cleaning.
I got the head frame re-assembled enough to test it. It runs beautifully!
9/6/2020
Most of the time, I prefer not to reuse panel screws. Instead, I will drill and tap for machine screws. The panel screws securing the "Craftsman" badge are very small. In addition, they are countersunk for the 3-D badge. I re-drilled the holes with a #42 bit and tapped for 4-40 screws. I was a little nervous tapping that small, but I went slow and backed out often.
My Ace hardware store had this size flat-head screw in stock. The fit was perfect.
Dp#87 came with a late-'60s motor with no switch. Because it has a built-in switch in the had frame, I'll use the '60's motor on dp#88. To make the motor easily removable, I installed this 2-pin connector.
9/14/2020
Dp#88 is coming along slowly. I changed plans somewhat and bought dp#91 for some parts swapping.
I'm going to use the pulley cover, base and column from dp#91 to convert dp#88 to a bench-top model. To do so, I have to repaint the pulley cover and base. I found this Rustoleum 2X paint in Evening Navy that is not too far off; not perfect, but close enough.
I'm also going to juggle some motors.
- The '68 1/2hp motor from dp#87 will be installed on dp#88.
- The 1/3hp Companion motor from dp#88 will be installed on dp#90.
- The 1/2hp, 115.6962 motor from dp#90 will be installed on dp#89.
- The motors that came with dp#89 and 91 are junk.
The single spline on the spindle is another interesting feature of that early machine.
Here's an example of a 15" version (dp#35) with the four-handle hub. This was featured in the 1936 catalog.
One more thing about the blue paint on these Atlas machines...
IIRC, I used a Sears Easy Living spray paint for dp#35 above. I don't recall the gloss color name, but that's probably irrelevant anymore.
Below is my dp#88, a later model,. I repainted only the belt cover, hub and base. The paint I used was Rustoleum Ultra Matte in Evening Navy. It's not a perfect match, but IMO, it's the closest match to any Craftsman color in any off-the-shelf paint. The matte finish is also much nicer than gloss.
You may have noticed the three-spoke hub is not original to Craftsman branded Atlas machines. I swapped it out because the fourth knob did not match the other three.
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Hi and thanks, FrankLee, for this excellent thread! My first post in GJ.
I picked up DP#1 at an estate sale yesterday. It's a late 40's 13 1/2" (100?) bench top model 103.23640. It has the tilt table (couple small divets), machine screws in the trim panel (missing original trim panel), and is equipped with a E2 49 1/2 hp motor. It runs smooth and true and the feed operates smoothly.
Other than an incredibly thick coat of paint (can hardly see the casting finish!) it seems to be in good shape and is mostly complete. I plan a full tear-down and restoration since I intend to keep this DP for my garage workshop and will post pictures when I figure out how.
One item missing is the base lock shoe (22212) and correct square-headed set screw (X185). Could someone please post up the dimensions of the base lock shoe so I can fabricate one? Any recommendation on sourcing the set screw?
Thanks!
I picked up DP#1 at an estate sale yesterday. It's a late 40's 13 1/2" (100?) bench top model 103.23640. It has the tilt table (couple small divets), machine screws in the trim panel (missing original trim panel), and is equipped with a E2 49 1/2 hp motor. It runs smooth and true and the feed operates smoothly.
Other than an incredibly thick coat of paint (can hardly see the casting finish!) it seems to be in good shape and is mostly complete. I plan a full tear-down and restoration since I intend to keep this DP for my garage workshop and will post pictures when I figure out how.
One item missing is the base lock shoe (22212) and correct square-headed set screw (X185). Could someone please post up the dimensions of the base lock shoe so I can fabricate one? Any recommendation on sourcing the set screw?
Thanks!
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Re: dp#88
This is an amazing find! Floor model but then you add the alien head cover to it! Very well done! Are you going to keep this one?
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
I picked up dp#88 this morning from a fbmp ad. It's an Atlas Craftsman model 101.03680 with the alfa-class belt cover.
The seller owned it only for a couple years and never used it. He never tested it before listing it and it was my good fortune that the motor didn't run. I got it for a very good price!
It came with a small vise and box with eight or so chucks; two are nos in boxes.
Besides the motor, there are a few issues:
- one original feed handle knob was replaced with a wooden knob
- the spindle thrust collar is missing
- one motor mount bolt was drilled out via hack job
- the original paint on the head frame casting and the cast iron cover mount is actually very good. More than half of the original paint on the cast aluminum cover is missing. Some original paint remains on the table, but the base is all rust.
This is an amazing find! Floor model but then you add the alien head cover to it! Very well done! Are you going to keep this one?
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Welcome! And thanks for your comments.
I really appreciate the research you've done to identify your machine!
I can't help with lock shoe dimensions at the moment, but, iirc, I fabricated a substitute lock shoe for a 13-1/2" machine base from three 1" pieces of 5/8" brass rod. I inserted them vertically into the shoe cavity; two against the column and one against the set screw. It worked rather well.
I may have a spare set screw. I'll send a pm if I do.
Yes, please keep us updated on your progress.
Thanks! Using rod bits sounds like an easier solution than cutting and grinding out a shoe! Here's a pic of how it looked when I got it home. The motor is off as I disassembled it per your technique for the truck ride.
Attachments
I generally don't post referrals, but here's an uncommon floor-standing mohawk drill press on craigslist in se MI. Pictures are the obligatory poor quality, but the price is right.
https://annarbor.craigslist.org/tls/d/ann-arbor-craftsman-drillpress/7185872640.html
Here's a brightened photo:
https://annarbor.craigslist.org/tls/d/ann-arbor-craftsman-drillpress/7185872640.html
Here's a brightened photo:
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Cruzan80
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Uncommon would be an understatement!!!
And the correct motor as well! Somebody better grab that one quick!
Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Uncommon would be an understatement!!!
And the correct motor as well! Somebody better grab that one quick!
Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
That statement is akin to saying you saw big foot riding a unicorn. That is so rare! I am drooling now! Someone go rescue that! So jealous
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
That statement is akin to saying you saw big foot riding a unicorn. That is so rare! I am drooling now! Someone go rescue that! So jealous
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Feed Stop Nut, 5/8-12 Acme Threads
Feed Stop Nut, 5/8-12 Acme Threads
My curiosity got the better of me and I ordered the Powermatic arbor nut via ebay. I gotta say that it fits the rapid-adjust feed stop rod and works perfectly without modification. The Pm part number is 3530006. It is 7/8" across the flats, 1" across the corners and 7/16" thick.
The ebay price was still steep, but still less than half of ERP. This is a great option and much cheaper than the price of the oe rapid-adjust collar assembly on ebay... if you can find one.
Thanks GreyEyes for that tip!
Feed Stop Nut, 5/8-12 Acme Threads
I am new to this website and thread and I hope I am asking my question in the right place. I recently purchased a Craftsman 150 drill press. I am looking for a couple of the feed stop rod stop nuts. By looking on this thread on the website, I saw that they are 5/8"-12 ACME style threads. I counted the threads on the rod on my drill press, and I counted 12 in 1 inch. Any help in acquiring these parts would be really appreciated. Thanks.Welcome Stanley!
I did a fair amount of online searching, but I've never been able to find that size acme nut in any form from the major fastener players.
They are available as replacement parts as arbor nuts for some table saws (powermatic in particular) but they are ungodly expensive for a single nut, anywhere from $15 to $25 before tax and shipping
My curiosity got the better of me and I ordered the Powermatic arbor nut via ebay. I gotta say that it fits the rapid-adjust feed stop rod and works perfectly without modification. The Pm part number is 3530006. It is 7/8" across the flats, 1" across the corners and 7/16" thick.
The ebay price was still steep, but still less than half of ERP. This is a great option and much cheaper than the price of the oe rapid-adjust collar assembly on ebay... if you can find one.
Thanks GreyEyes for that tip!
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Re: Feed Stop Nut, 5/8-12 Acme Threads
You're welcome FrankLee, and thanks for being the guinea pig to see if the o.d. would clear!
You're welcome FrankLee, and thanks for being the guinea pig to see if the o.d. would clear!
y'sguy
Well-known member
Okay, ……so…Against all urges, I really thought I "needed" (wanted) a vintage Craftsman drill press. Much to my dismay every time I found one they were 300-400 bucks OR worse just not around it seems. So, I decided this was good! It would keep me from buying something I was obsessing about and thinking about, the project I thought I was ready for. So I gave up looking.
Or so I thought. I snuck a peak on craiglist knowing full well there would be nothing. I inadvertently came across the listing of … Delta ocillating sander with stand? But the picture was A craftsman drill press? $55.
Had to be a screw up so I called and surprisingly enough it was all for sale as listed.
I said I would be there to take a look in about 45 minutes.
So, yeah I gave him the 55 bucks having realized it didn't have the handles and that I didn't really want the nice plywood cabinet it was bolted to but took anyway.
It turns out the sander setup is really pretty cool and works great! so I guess that's a bonus and maybe I will end up using it.
Then I got to thinking what a genius I was (before I read deeper into this thread!) and devised a way to pclean and polish the mast. I admit it was a p pretty sketchy way of doing things, but I bravely went ahead. Because really "What could go wrong!"
Well it was somewhat violent but not as bad as I feared, AND it worked! Only mishap was a boxs of taps and dies vibrated off the shelf and scattered over the floor. NOT BAD
So I will continue to clean it up and do a light restoration on it from here. And I promise I will read the first post on this thread that I wish I had read in the beginning before I bought this!
As always great info on GJ! As yuo can see I am looking out for options for feed handles and sscouting the adjustable stop mechanism if anyone has one they would part with. I browsed ebay and will keep an eye out there. I think I already haknow the solution for feed handles for me but would prefer original style if anyone knows of those too.
I hope this wasn't too rambling and boring for all of you. But hey, it's sort of payback if you will for getting me all excited and having to find one of these things!
Or so I thought. I snuck a peak on craiglist knowing full well there would be nothing. I inadvertently came across the listing of … Delta ocillating sander with stand? But the picture was A craftsman drill press? $55.
Had to be a screw up so I called and surprisingly enough it was all for sale as listed.
I said I would be there to take a look in about 45 minutes.
So, yeah I gave him the 55 bucks having realized it didn't have the handles and that I didn't really want the nice plywood cabinet it was bolted to but took anyway.
It turns out the sander setup is really pretty cool and works great! so I guess that's a bonus and maybe I will end up using it.
Then I got to thinking what a genius I was (before I read deeper into this thread!) and devised a way to pclean and polish the mast. I admit it was a p pretty sketchy way of doing things, but I bravely went ahead. Because really "What could go wrong!"
Well it was somewhat violent but not as bad as I feared, AND it worked! Only mishap was a boxs of taps and dies vibrated off the shelf and scattered over the floor. NOT BAD
So I will continue to clean it up and do a light restoration on it from here. And I promise I will read the first post on this thread that I wish I had read in the beginning before I bought this!
As always great info on GJ! As yuo can see I am looking out for options for feed handles and sscouting the adjustable stop mechanism if anyone has one they would part with. I browsed ebay and will keep an eye out there. I think I already haknow the solution for feed handles for me but would prefer original style if anyone knows of those too.
I hope this wasn't too rambling and boring for all of you. But hey, it's sort of payback if you will for getting me all excited and having to find one of these things!
bubinga
Well-known member
Happen to have a ,etal Lathe?Okay, ……so…Against all urges, I really thought I "needed" (wanted) a vintage Craftsman drill press. Much to my dismay every time I found one they were 300-400 bucks OR worse just not around it seems. So, I decided this was good! It would keep me from buying something I was obsessing about and thinking about, the project I thought I was ready for. So I gave up looking.
Or so I thought. I snuck a peak on craiglist knowing full well there would be nothing. I inadvertently came across the listing of … Delta ocillating sander with stand? But the picture was A craftsman drill press? $55.
Had to be a screw up so I called and surprisingly enough it was all for sale as listed.
I said I would be there to take a look in about 45 minutes.
So, yeah I gave him the 55 bucks having realized it didn't have the handles and that I didn't really want the nice plywood cabinet it was bolted to but took anyway.
It turns out the sander setup is really pretty cool and works great! so I guess that's a bonus and maybe I will end up using it.
Then I got to thinking what a genius I was (before I read deeper into this thread!) and devised a way to pclean and polish the mast. I admit it was a p pretty sketchy way of doing things, but I bravely went ahead. Because really "What could go wrong!"
Well it was somewhat violent but not as bad as I feared, AND it worked! Only mishap was a boxs of taps and dies vibrated off the shelf and scattered over the floor. NOT BAD
So I will continue to clean it up and do a light restoration on it from here. And I promise I will read the first post on this thread that I wish I had read in the beginning before I bought this!
As always great info on GJ! As yuo can see I am looking out for options for feed handles and sscouting the adjustable stop mechanism if anyone has one they would part with. I browsed ebay and will keep an eye out there. I think I already haknow the solution for feed handles for me but would prefer original style if anyone knows of those too.
I hope this wasn't too rambling and boring for all of you. But hey, it's sort of payback if you will for getting me all excited and having to find one of these things!
Okay, ……so…Against all urges, I really thought I "needed" (wanted) a vintage Craftsman drill press. Much to my dismay every time I found one they were 300-400 bucks OR worse just not around it seems. So, I decided this was good! It would keep me from buying something I was obsessing about and thinking about, the project I thought I was ready for. So I gave up looking.
Or so I thought. I snuck a peak on craiglist knowing full well there would be nothing. I inadvertently came across the listing of … Delta ocillating sander with stand? But the picture was A craftsman drill press? $55.
Had to be a screw up so I called and surprisingly enough it was all for sale as listed.
I said I would be there to take a look in about 45 minutes.
So, yeah I gave him the 55 bucks having realized it didn't have the handles and that I didn't really want the nice plywood cabinet it was bolted to but took anyway.
It turns out the sander setup is really pretty cool and works great! so I guess that's a bonus and maybe I will end up using it.
Then I got to thinking what a genius I was (before I read deeper into this thread!) and devised a way to pclean and polish the mast. I admit it was a p pretty sketchy way of doing things, but I bravely went ahead. Because really "What could go wrong!"
Well it was somewhat violent but not as bad as I feared, AND it worked! Only mishap was a boxs of taps and dies vibrated off the shelf and scattered over the floor. NOT BAD
So I will continue to clean it up and do a light restoration on it from here. And I promise I will read the first post on this thread that I wish I had read in the beginning before I bought this!
As always great info on GJ! As yuo can see I am looking out for options for feed handles and sscouting the adjustable stop mechanism if anyone has one they would part with. I browsed ebay and will keep an eye out there. I think I already haknow the solution for feed handles for me but would prefer original style if anyone knows of those too.
I hope this wasn't too rambling and boring for all of you. But hey, it's sort of payback if you will for getting me all excited and having to find one of these things!
Welcome to the club! That's one of the most interesting dp finds I've seen in a long while. Thanks for posting!
Because of the effort to r&r that sander, I'm not sure how practical it is to switch between sanding and drilling. To leave it as a dedicated sander, it takes a lot of space.
Before shopping for parts, I always suggest getting machines completely dismantled and existing parts thoroughly inspected. There's no point in throwing good money after bad. In your case, you may want to verify the integrity of spindle pulley, the spring and run-out of the spindle.
Yeah, that lathe set-up does look rather sketchy. Your results look good though.
Keep us posted on your progress!
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y'sguy
Well-known member
Thank you FrankLee, Your information from all your hard work and research is well appreciated.
FYI, I won't leave this as a dedicated sander. The sander installs and removes pretty easily. It is fun to watch it move the spindle up and down on its own!
Here's a question I did not see covered as yet. Is it advisable to remove the bearings and service them or replace if possible in the quill? This one seems to have a small catch in it, but I'm probably overthinking it OR can it cleaned? It IS a sealed bearing but I have seen the seal pried open and serviced successfully. Any Thoughts?
FYI, I won't leave this as a dedicated sander. The sander installs and removes pretty easily. It is fun to watch it move the spindle up and down on its own!
Here's a question I did not see covered as yet. Is it advisable to remove the bearings and service them or replace if possible in the quill? This one seems to have a small catch in it, but I'm probably overthinking it OR can it cleaned? It IS a sealed bearing but I have seen the seal pried open and serviced successfully. Any Thoughts?
Probably half the time, the spindle will slide out of the quill without too much difficulty. In that case, I will remove the bearings from the quill, remove one shield and thoroughly clean the bearings in a sonic cleaner. Once clean, I determine whether they're still good or need replacing. If good, I repack with Mobil Polyrex EM electric motor bearing grease. They get reinstalled in the quill and on spindle pulley with the open sides facing each other. The bearings in most of the older cast iron motors, i.e., model 115.6962, are already open on one side and shielded on the other.
If the spindle does not slide out, I'll put a few drops of oil around the inner race and let it soak in. If the bearings feel gritty or loose, I'll press out the spindle and replace. If the bearings are smooth, it's good to go.
The vast majority of the time, IMO, the bearings are good after servicing them.
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whateg01
Well-known member
As cheap as bearings are, I don't see the point in disassembling and cleaning. I will for open bearings, but sealed or shielded, I would only do that if they bearings were particularly expensive. The exception to this would be if I was only flipping them. In that case a dollar saved is a dollar made.
If they have a catch in them, I would definitely do something about it, though. It doesn't happen often, but I have had bearings that had a catch like that turn out to have a cracked race. You probably aren't relying on a drill press for tenths accuracy, but anything that disrupts the smooth rotation of the spindle will cause runout.
BTW, those are shielded bearings, not sealed.
Dave
If they have a catch in them, I would definitely do something about it, though. It doesn't happen often, but I have had bearings that had a catch like that turn out to have a cracked race. You probably aren't relying on a drill press for tenths accuracy, but anything that disrupts the smooth rotation of the spindle will cause runout.
BTW, those are shielded bearings, not sealed.
Dave
lafester
Well-known member
y'sguy
Well-known member
Thanks for your advice, It's no trouble for me to clean them as I have already done it. They now work fine. My GO TO bearing place is no longer user-friendly as they once were. The guys that used to work there are retired and younger ones have to have computers and specific part numbers to work with. I understand, but life seemed simpler before.
ttpete
Well-known member
As long as you know the number you need, try running a search at Amazon. That's my first stop because there are many sources that use Amazon to sell bearings and o-rings.
y'sguy
Well-known member
Yes, I know, but still I cleaned them easily and quickly. Amazon is sometime for me great as I don't have to hunt around town. But delivery and shipping time and cost often tips the scale the other way for me. I know I'm old fashioned!
bubinga
Well-known member
almost worth the drive for me~
bubinga
Well-known member
They will be just fine!
good job!!
9/2/2020
Companion Motor S-4390
DP#88 came with a Sears Companion motor, model S-4390 dated J 47. It is split phase, 1/3 hp and 1750 rpm.
Like I said above, the motor did not start or run at the seller's home. After I got it home, I bypassed the switch in the head frame and it started right up.
As usual, the exterior of the motor is filthy, but much of the dirt easily wiped off with a dry rag. The center band is very rusty, but remarkably, the original black paint is in very good condition.
I dismantled the motor and as expected, the interior was just as dirty.
Keeping small parts organized is always a big help.
The bearings have gone through a couple cycles in the sonic cleaner and I expect them to be in very good condition to be reused.
9/5/2020
More progress on the Companion motor...
All parts and bearings were cleaned. The original New Departure bearings are part number ENDEE 8013.
Some wiring was refreshed.
The center band was soaked in citric acid, cleaned and covered with the vinyl film. Motor is pretty much complete until I install it and wire-up the Atlas head frame switch.
Companion Motor S-4390
DP#88 came with a Sears Companion motor, model S-4390 dated J 47. It is split phase, 1/3 hp and 1750 rpm.
Like I said above, the motor did not start or run at the seller's home. After I got it home, I bypassed the switch in the head frame and it started right up.
As usual, the exterior of the motor is filthy, but much of the dirt easily wiped off with a dry rag. The center band is very rusty, but remarkably, the original black paint is in very good condition.
I dismantled the motor and as expected, the interior was just as dirty.
Keeping small parts organized is always a big help.
The bearings have gone through a couple cycles in the sonic cleaner and I expect them to be in very good condition to be reused.
9/5/2020
More progress on the Companion motor...
All parts and bearings were cleaned. The original New Departure bearings are part number ENDEE 8013.
Some wiring was refreshed.
The center band was soaked in citric acid, cleaned and covered with the vinyl film. Motor is pretty much complete until I install it and wire-up the Atlas head frame switch.
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