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Craftsman Drill Press

11b30b4

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PureLeaf, he sells them in sets of three. I got a replacement set from him back in December and had no issues getting hold of him. He did say that I got his least set of 3/8-16 rods, but he had two sets of ½-13 rods left and planned on making more. Not sure what size you need but I would keep trying to get hold of him. I hope everything is ok with him. The rods were outstanding quality.

39 Lasalle, I assume you and Frank worked out the chuck issue. As for the motor, if you decide to replace the bearings, Accurate bearing has the proper bearings for it. The inner race is taller than the outer race if it’s the same motor that I have.

Also, if you contact Oldironowner, about the parts for the veri-slow, inquire about his replacement feed rods. Great quality and the price is worth it IMO.
 
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39 LaSalle

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PureLeaf, he sells them in sets of three. I got a replacement set from him back in December and had no issues getting hold of him. He did say that I got his least set of 3/8-16 rods, but he had two sets of ½-13 rods left and planned on making more. Not sure what size you need but I would keep trying to get hold of him. I hope everything is ok with him. The rods were outstanding quality.

39 Lasalle, I assume you and Frank worked out the chuck issue. As for the motor, if you decide to replace the bearings, Accurate bearing has the proper bearings for it. The inner race is taller than the outer race if it’s the same motor that I have.

Also, if you contact Oldironowner, about the parts for the veri-slow, inquire about his replacement feed rods. Great quality and the price is worth it IMO.

Yeah, we've got the chuck worked out. I'm going to order quill bearings from Accurate tomorrow, but all my other ones including the motor seem fine. I'm just thrilled that I was able to get the pulley off my motor, by hand, in about 2 minutes flat.

BTW, you say Oldironowner makes the feed handle rods? Any idea how much and do you have a picture of one? I'd seriously consider that just to not have to fool with them.
 

11b30b4

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39 LaSalle, you will need to message him about the rods. Make sure you know what size you need (there are two sizes for the 100/150 series press). He only sales them in sets of 3. The quality is awesome. Here is a pic of one of the broken rods from my 100 press next to one of the Oldironowner rods. The top of the replacement rod is dark because I needed to sand about a 1/32 off it. Not because the rod was too long but because I sanded the knob to clean it up and the difference made the stem of the knob slightly smaller.

View media item 109837
As noted, there are two different sizes of the rods, but I think there is only one size of the knobs. The replacement rods do not come with knobs so you will need to source a replacement knob. I have seen them on ebay from time to time.

At one point I was thinking about fabricating replacement knobs. I have not pursued it and I do not have the time to do it anytime soon. If you wanted to fab some up, I believe several people would be interested but it would not be a booming business.

My plan was to make a 2-part silicone mold of an original knob then cast replacement knobs in glass embedded acrylic (or something similar) tinted to match the deep maroon color. Once you had the cast, you could drill and tap the mounting hole or even drop a threaded sleeve into the cast before it cures. It would probably cost about 100 bucks to get the materials and knock out a few sets, but I just don’t have the time currently.

Anyway, I hope this helps.
 

39 LaSalle

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11b30b4,

Those rods look great. I'll have to drop him a line. Mine are the 3/8 rods. I have two good knobs, but one was replaced at some point with a ratty wood ball. All of my rods are jacked. Long story and I don't really want to get into, but my DP has changed owners three times since Jan. 1st and in the earliest photos I have of it, they appeared fine. I've got my theories on what happened, but I'll just leave it with by the time I went to pick it up they were broken.

I hadn't gotten that far in my thinking about the knobs yet, but I've done some casting of parts with silicone molds for my car restoration so I already have the gear for it. Sounds like a good idea pursue to me.
 

ttpete

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11b30b4,

Those rods look great. I'll have to drop him a line. Mine are the 3/8 rods. I have two good knobs, but one was replaced at some point with a ratty wood ball. All of my rods are jacked. Long story and I don't really want to get into, but my DP has changed owners three times since Jan. 1st and in the earliest photos I have of it, they appeared fine. I've got my theories on what happened, but I'll just leave it with by the time I went to pick it up they were broken.

I hadn't gotten that far in my thinking about the knobs yet, but I've done some casting of parts with silicone molds for my car restoration so I already have the gear for it. Sounds like a good idea pursue to me.

MSC has all kinds and sizes of knobs in its catalog.
 

39 LaSalle

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MSC has all kinds and sizes of knobs in its catalog.

Thanks for that heads up. They definitely have some interesting knobs I am going to consider.


I haven't been able to update for a few days as real world work has interfered. Nonetheless, I have managed to work a bit of time into my schedule for my drill press. I also made time to read through every page and post of this thread which was a herculean task unto itself!

First of all, I want to thank Frank for starting this thread. The data he and other contributors have shared and made available is invaluable. I also want to thank him for helping me get my chuck issues resolved as well. I received a new thrust collar and had it fitted within five minutes. Works like a charm now.

Sadly, I have encountered other issues with my press. This is my first major tool restoration so please excuse any missteps I may make or any heresy's I may commit along the way. Upon first getting this drill press, my hope had been to make it look and function as good as brand new. Well, things go along and reality sets in. Under ideal circumstances, I should of passed on buying this one, but they are a rare bird in this area so ya take what ya can get. Maybe somewhere down the road something else will come on the market and I can trade up. Ultimately though, as I saw Fred comment in here somewhere, I'm not making a museum piece, this will be a working press and I bought it to use, not to flip or look pretty in the corner of the garage.

Along with my chuck being messed up (now fixed), and my feed handles being broken (easily replaced), I am sad to report that my column and base are pretty much jacked. The base clearly had been sitting in some water for a long time as the cast iron is VERY pitted in many places. I have been unsuccessful in separating the column from the base using any means I have access to. I've soaked it for days (inside and out) with penetrating oil, used a BFH, used a 2 x 4, used heat, tried twisting it. All to no avail. On top of that, at some point prior to my owning it, the base somehow got cracked about 4-5” near the bolster that supports the column. It even extends to the casting fins on the underside. The base has also been monkeyed with at some point as about half of the raised edges where the mounting bolts go through have been ground off. Likely to level it on an uneven floor. If this all weren't bad enough, the bottom of the column had been mushroomed a bit keeping the column wedged on as well. Now honestly, I can deal with all this...I've been able to clean the rust on the base up for the most part, I can have the crack brazed at some point if I feel it is causing a problem, and I can live with not being able to get the column out even though it's a pain, and I can figure out a way to shim it if need be. I think that I will probably be keeping an eye out for a new base or donor machine if I can find one in my area at a reasonable price.

Which brings me to another point. The column had rusted so much that a goodly chunk of it is deeply pitted. I've gotten the worst of it off, but no matter what I do, it's not going to be all nice and sparkly like some I see. It's going to look like a gray and silver leopard. I've been working it over with 220 grit, and am going to hit it some more with 500 grit to see where I'm at. What grit does everyone else go down to when polishing these things? Since I can't get it off the base, obviously I've been doing most of it by hand which is a long and arduous procedure. There again, this is something I can live with, and I don't think it's functionally problematic, it's just disappointing. As with the base, maybe I can find another donor drill press locally and I can just swap them out.

I also discovered that at some point, someone tried to take the quill out by hitting the top of it with a punch or something. This would explain why I had a hell of a time trying to get it out of the head. The punch marks can be seen along the rim, and there was an ever so slight bit of mushrooming to the quill which made it quite difficult to get out, and impossible to put back in. So I popped it in the vice and with a fine file carefully smoothed out the mushrooming, followed with some intensive buffing to eliminate the file marks. It slides back in the head nicely now.

I have also started dismantling the motor. While it runs fine, the cord really needed to be replaced and as I suspected, mud daubers have been inside. The pulley came off just as slick as you please. The case needs painting and the cover band is severely rusted. I'm just going to clean that up and paint it with some of the “chrome” type paint and see how it turns out. I'll also go ahead and touch up the wiring with shrink wrap.

As for the rest of the cast iron, I've now got everything cleaned, and taped up, ready to paint. Weather should cooperate tomorrow, but It's really going to hinge on whether my paint arrives or not. I decided to go with the Rustoleum “Deep Slate” paint. I was unhappy with anything I could find locally, so I had to order this specially. It really *****, because the paint itself was only like $5, but Menards (the cheapest place I could find it) hit me for $15 in shipping and taxes. For that kind of money I might as well have gone to my local paint house and had a color custom made which matches the original.

With any luck, my new quill bearings should be arriving soon, and hopefully I can start reassembly within the week.
 

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FrankLee

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......

Sadly, I have encountered other issues with my press.

......
That's a bummer about the cracked base, but it is less cracked than the one I had.

As you said, the column is still functional. It looks like the worst pitting is at the bottom out of normal use range.

You've already addressed the chuck, the spindle and the quill. With new quill bearings, you should be in good shape. Once you get some fresh paint applied, it will look much better.

What did you decide about the Vari-Slo? Even if you sell it as-is, your ROI should be pretty good.

You're getting there... keep up the good work!
 

y'sguy

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11b30b4,

Those rods look great. I'll have to drop him a line. Mine are the 3/8 rods. I have two good knobs, but one was replaced at some point with a ratty wood ball. All of my rods are jacked. Long story and I don't really want to get into, but my DP has changed owners three times since Jan. 1st and in the earliest photos I have of it, they appeared fine. I've got my theories on what happened, but I'll just leave it with by the time I went to pick it up they were broken.

I hadn't gotten that far in my thinking about the knobs yet, but I've done some casting of parts with silicone molds for my car restoration so I already have the gear for it. Sounds like a good idea pursue to me.

FYI, I had to order rods and knobs for mine and found them at J. W. WINCO. Not original but high quality and cheaper anyway. Just a thought.
All things considered it seems like you are getting there. Have you tried impact vibration on the base to ease the removal. Worked for me. If you can finally get the column all the way out I believe you can make it decent by spinning it. Good luck. :beer: here's a shot at the handles I got. They come in several different dimensions.

 

lafester

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Those look pretty nice... what dimensions did you order?


FYI, I had to order rods and knobs for mine and found them at J. W. WINCO. Not original but high quality and cheaper anyway. Just a thought.
All things considered it seems like you are getting there. Have you tried impact vibration on the base to ease the removal. Worked for me. If you can finally get the column all the way out I believe you can make it decent by spinning it. Good luck. :beer: here's a shot at the handles I got. They come in several different dimensions.
 

39 LaSalle

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That's a bummer about the cracked base, but it is less cracked than the one I had.

As you said, the column is still functional. It looks like the worst pitting is at the bottom out of normal use range.

For the most part yes. There are distinct bands at the top where the head and table were though.

You've already addressed the chuck, the spindle and the quill. With new quill bearings, you should be in good shape. Once you get some fresh paint applied, it will look much better.

It does. The weather gods favored me today, and my paint finally arrived this afternoon. Unfortunately I should have got two cans, but at least the head, table, and motor parts are fully painted now. If I hadn't have gotten it done today, it would have been at least another week or week and a half before it "might" have been warm enough out to paint.

What did you decide about the Vari-Slo? Even if you sell it as-is, your ROI should be pretty good.

Honestly, I haven't had time to fool with it. When I got it home I just set that all to the side, out of the way. I need to give the parts a decent wipedown, but after that, yeah, I think I want to sell them. If it was all working, I'd probably leave it on there, but I just don't see a scenario where I would really "need" to have it. Much more useful to me would be the slow speed pulley attachment.

You're getting there... keep up the good work!

Thanks, I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Made other good progress today. Finally got the motor all apart using a poor mans bearing puller (carriage bolts and a 2 x 2) and cleaned out the mud dauber nests in there. Also cleaned and repacked the bearings. Wires actually look pretty good, but I may dab some liquid electrical tape in there just to be on the safe side. Looking forward to getting it all back together. [/QUOTE]
 
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39 LaSalle

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FYI, I had to order rods and knobs for mine and found them at J. W. WINCO. Not original but high quality and cheaper anyway. Just a thought.
All things considered it seems like you are getting there. Have you tried impact vibration on the base to ease the removal. Worked for me. If you can finally get the column all the way out I believe you can make it decent by spinning it. Good luck. :beer: here's a shot at the handles I got. They come in several different dimensions.

Say...I like the look (and price) of those. I may end up going that route. Thanks for the heads up. :beer:
 

y'sguy

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Those look pretty nice... what dimensions did you order?

haha, wish I could remember! sorry but I just measured the one that I had and got pretty close. I really wanted to find originals but afterall is said and done I like these just fine. I was proud of myself for not overthinking things for a change!
 

Simmslumber66

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Hi gang, new to the forum. Found this site while searching the internet for info on a Craftsman drill press I picked up today. I've spent a good portion of my evening reading through your previous posts. Figured I'd post a few pics and let you tell me if $20 was a good deal. Just a few hours looking around online tells me I did ok.
 

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lafester

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Just curious how you found the dp?
I haven't seen one under $150 for awhile now, and usually over $250.

Yes, $20 is a steal.

Hi gang, new to the forum. Found this site while searching the internet for info on a Craftsman drill press I picked up today. I've spent a good portion of my evening reading through your previous posts. Figured I'd post a few pics and let you tell me if $20 was a good deal. Just a few hours looking around online tells me I did ok.
 
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FrankLee

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Hi gang, new to the forum. Found this site while searching the internet for info on a Craftsman drill press I picked up today. I've spent a good portion of my evening reading through your previous posts. Figured I'd post a few pics and let you tell me if $20 was a good deal. Just a few hours looking around online tells me I did ok.

Just curious how you found the dp?
I haven't seen one under $150 for awhile now, and usually over $250.

Yes, $20 is a steal.

It missing the feed stop nuts, but yeah, I think you did ok. :evil:


Seriously, welcome! Yes, more details on that find, please. What are your plans? Some paint is worn off the table, but the remaining original paint may clean up nicely.


That's an interesting machine.... a 100 model 103.23141(?) with early features and later Power Bronze paint. The imbrications in the head frame trim panel are pressed in. I've never been able to figure out when that was used.

 
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11b30b4

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Y’sguy, was it the Gear Lever handle with knob? Did you have to special order them or were they stock? Do you remember “roughly” what they cost?

There are some nice options on JW Winco’s site, even a red plastic ball knob and there is a tapered knob. Nice options if you are missing rods and knobs. Thanks for the information.

Simmslumber66, just the feed handles and knobs we have been discussing here are worth more than 20 bucks. For that matter, just about any other part on that press is worth more than 20 bucks, great find.
 

Simmslumber66

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The tag on the base shows the model #103.24821
An ATV dealer here in town listed it for sale on Facebook marketplace. Just wanted it out of their shop. I happened to be in the right place at the right time. I think it will clean up pretty nicely. Took the belt off and made sure the motor ran. Nice and smooth.
We'll see how the rest of it looks this weekend.
 
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FrankLee

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The tag on the base shows the model #103.24821
An ATV dealer here in town listed it for sale on Facebook marketplace. Just wanted it out of their shop. I happened to be in the right place at the right time. I think it will clean up pretty nicely. Took the belt off and made sure the motor ran. Nice and smooth.
We'll see how the rest of it looks this weekend.

OK, the model number and the color make sense. The date code on the motor is 8 57.

Looking forward to your refurb updates.
 

y'sguy

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I was able to find my record for the feed handles order.
PLEASE CHECK your thread size as I can't guarantee your threads will be the same. also you may desire a different length, altho these match my original dimension very closely. The 3 handles with knobs were 26.04 with shipping! pretty darn good for what they are. They also have stainless steel if you must.

I originally bought a set off EBAY but as a newbie DP owner I bought the wrong thread size.

Oh, and I might ad as a note to SimmSlumber on his purchase of the Craftsman $20 floor model, You ****! as per the traditional Garage Journal Salute!
 
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Hoorn

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Gents, I bought this 150 about 10 days ago for $90. Only thing missing was the head lock handle; I've already purchased a replacement from eBay and it arrived yesterday. Date stamped on the motor is August 1958. I was fortunate in that there was a safety collar lock that obviously wasn't being used that I will eventually put under the head. Original Power bronze on the head probably could have been cleaned up but PO painted the table and the base grey. I've already disassembled the DP and will post some follow-up pics of my progress.

Having studied this thread for some time before I bought the press so I'd have a good working knowledge of it when I took possession of it, I'm indebted to all for the shared expertise.
 

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Hoorn

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This is where I'm at. Everything was primed and painted. I literally purchased 7 different gold/bronze paints of various brands recommended by others all over GJ as a potential match for power bronze. Some of them were surprisingly not even close, in particular the hammered gold. This is Rust-Oleum champagne mist and I felt it was extremely close. The two samples I have with it are with the light and without. I think the only issue with this color is it is high gloss whereas the originals were satin at most. I will most definitely be putting a satin clear coat on this a few days from now. Because of the high gloss you can see in the images of the head from two different angles how different the color is depending on the light.

To clean the incredible amount of rust on the column I used a technique I've seen on the internet as a makeshift lathe. Took me about 30 to 40 minutes to get it to the point seen in the picture.
 

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39 LaSalle

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A Cautionary Tale

Well, I went and did it now...while deciding to give my paint job a couple of days to cure before fooling with it, I decided to turn my attention to the motor and other fine details like cleaning up tags.

My press ID badge from the base, the motor tag, the reset button tag, the on/off switch tag all had scuffing issues as well as grime build up. In addition the motor bearing covers on mine were originally painted and they were pretty grubby too.

So I decided I'd give them all a quick spritz in a cleaner/degreaser I've had good luck with in the past. A product called "LA's Totally Awesome". BAD idea...within seconds after tossing them all in a small bowl...and I do mean seconds, it had already started melting all the paint and printing off of everything. I was lucky that I didn't toss the Craftsman badge from the head in too. Everything else is pretty much trashed or might as well be.

Moral of the Story -- DO NOT use "LA's Totally Awesome" to clean grease and grime off of your Craftsman tools or badge tags. It will eat the paint off of everything in rapid order. Ordinarily, I have found it to be a great product, but hard lesson learned to not use it on these Craftsman machines.


Now for the Bright Side of the Story

I have discovered there is another member (MATTBLAST) of the Garage Journal forums here that has successfully been able to recreate water transfer decals for vintage machines. Particularly 60s-70s Craftsman grinders and such. He has recreated the artwork required for many items and then presumably sells copies for a nominal fee. As I understand it, he creates the artwork from scratch, or has to have someone submit artwork to him so I don't know if he has any of these already or not.

I used to work professionally as a graphic designer, and have already recreated the motor badge, on/off switch lettering, and am almost done with the machine ID badge mounted on the base. With this artwork in hand, I plan on reaching out to him to see if he can print this stuff on these decal transfers so I can replace mine.

After I get this all finalized, I plan on turning all my artwork over to MATTBLAST so he can produce copies for anyone who cares to get them.

Attached is a copy of the motor plate that I put together. It's not perfect, but close enough I don't think anyone would know the difference unless they knew what they were looking for.
 

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FrankLee

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Gents, I bought this 150 about 10 days ago for $90. Only thing missing was the head lock handle; I've already purchased a replacement from eBay and it arrived yesterday. Date stamped on the motor is August 1958. I was fortunate in that there was a safety collar lock that obviously wasn't being used that I will eventually put under the head. Original Power bronze on the head probably could have been cleaned up but PO painted the table and the base grey. I've already disassembled the DP and will post some follow-up pics of my progress.

Having studied this thread for some time before I bought the press so I'd have a good working knowledge of it when I took possession of it, I'm indebted to all for the shared expertise.

This is where I'm at. Everything was primed and painted. I literally purchased 7 different gold/bronze paints of various brands recommended by others all over GJ as a potential match for power bronze. Some of them were surprisingly not even close, in particular the hammered gold. This is Rust-Oleum champagne mist and I felt it was extremely close. The two samples I have with it are with the light and without. I think the only issue with this color is it is high gloss whereas the originals were satin at most. I will most definitely be putting a satin clear coat on this a few days from now. Because of the high gloss you can see in the images of the head from two different angles how different the color is depending on the light.

To clean the incredible amount of rust on the column I used a technique I've seen on the internet as a makeshift lathe. Took me about 30 to 40 minutes to get it to the point seen in the picture.
Nice find! That's looking great!
 

LesserSon

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Frank - what an interesting specimen that grinder is! Very “Jetsons” appearance.
But no side-guards, no spark-arrestors, no eye-shields? Surprised the S&R lawyers let that through.
 

11b30b4

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Hoorn, that column looks great.

39 LaSalle, Mattblast does awesome work. I recently had him remake a few badges for me. This is the original model # data plate off my 100.

View media item 108670
And this is the decal Mattblast made for me. I cut a piece of aluminum and mounted it. Although my stamped model number is not perfect (I only had one set of stamps), the decal was outstanding.

View media item 109647
Just an FYI, he may not need your artwork, he has a lot of templates on file at this point and may have all the templates you need. If you have some good pics of the originals (before obliteration) and proper measurements, he can probably work from that.
 
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FrankLee

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......

I was fortunate in that there was a safety collar lock that obviously wasn't being used that I will eventually put under the head.

......

I never cared for any of those cast lock handles with the set screw. The set screws always seemed to come loose and the tension knob always interfered with the quill lock lever on the earlier machines.


 
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11b30b4

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This

View media item 110010
Why this was not the actual design that was sold to customers is beyond my understanding. Frank, that quill lock hack is the best I have seen. Now I need to go find column locks for sale at a reasonable price.
 
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FrankLee

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This

Why this was not the actual design that was sold to customers is beyond my understanding.
......
Exactly!

That style was standard on the pre-war Atlas/Craftsmans AND the King-Seeley Mohawks. I guess they wanted to bling it up on the 100s.
 

Hoorn

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I never cared for any of those cast lock handles with the set screw. The set screws always seemed to come loose and the tension knob always interfered with the quill lock lever on the earlier machines.

But, if you have a column collar, here's a tip... You can swap the ball-end lock lever/bolt from the collar with the cast lever and bolt from the quill lock. Both will work perfectly! The new quill lock lever will clear the tension knob.

You will have to tighten the bolt on the collar before installing the lever handle, but it functions perfectly.


Genius tip Frank. That is definitely how I will reassemble things.
 

Hoorn

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Frank, I always attempt to answer my own questions by reading through the thread first before asking, but I'm unclear as to the bottom screw on the motor mount. My DP did not have one at the time of purchase. I ran the machine before I bought it to make sure everything was in good working order and it ran without any vibration whatsoever. The hinged motor mount arms were inside the head frame mount holes and that was it. (They didn't even have the engine mount screws securing it to the head frame)

From my pictures you see I have a threaded hole at the bottom of the head frame and a corresponding hole on the motor mount. What type of bolt was used to secure this in order to maintain the "convenience" of the hinged motor mount?
 

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FrankLee

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Frank, I always attempt to answer my own questions by reading through the thread first before asking, but I'm unclear as to the bottom screw on the motor mount. My DP did not have one at the time of purchase. I ran the machine before I bought it to make sure everything was in good working order and it ran without any vibration whatsoever. The hinged motor mount arms were inside the head frame mount holes and that was it. (They didn't even have the engine mount screws securing it to the head frame)

From my pictures you see I have a threaded hole at the bottom of the head frame and a corresponding hole on the motor mount. What type of bolt was used to secure this in order to maintain the "convenience" of the hinged motor mount?
The Evolution post (link in post #1) shows the three different styles of pivoting motor mounts. Your motor mount plate has a round hole which is the earliest style. However, your head casting has the female threads for a stud/clip. I suspect that hole was drilled and tapped by a previous owner. If that's correct, that is the worst possible place to drill into the head frame casting.

When the stud design came from the factory, that area of the head casting was beefed up thicker and deeper. I recall measuring the before-and-after difference, but can't find the numbers at the moment.

My motor mount plate is the second version with the spot-welded female threaded boss. I have a stud with bumper attached to the plate. That black bumper is not original and I have no idea were I got it.

 
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Hoorn

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Thank you both for your quick responses. After seeing the example you pointed out of the "beefed up thicker" area of the head casting which was threaded, I'm going to fill mine with JB Weld in an attempt to avoid any future cracking.
 
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FrankLee

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Klixon Motor Thermal Switches

Motor Thermal Switches


Many small fractional motors come equipped with a thermal switch. The purpose of a thermal switch is to open run circuit if the motor gets overloaded and overheats.

Many Craftsman motors have a manual-reset switch. If the motor overheats and trips the switch, the red button must be pushed after the motor cools.

1771616717888.png


Some other motors have an automatic switch that resets itself after the motor cools. Below is an example from a Dayton motor.

1771616856053.png

Below is a C77 thermal switch from a Craftsman 115.6962, 1/2 hp, 1750 rpm motor.

1771616967445.png


The switch is a rather simple device. The housing has two wire leads on the back. Inside the housing is bare solid wire loop and two contacts. The reset button is connected to a bimetal snap disk with two contacts.

The snap disk and the metal piece above it have a notch that rides over a ridge inside the housing. This keeps the contacts and reset button aligned.

1771617103077.png

The snap disk is a piece of concave/convex bimetal. The bimetal disk is made up of two layers of metal with dissimilar
expansion/contraction properties. When that bare metal loop inside the housing heats up during overload, the snap disk flexes and opens the run circuit.

Below is a youtube video of how the snap disk works with a heat gun.


IMPORTANT:
The thermal switch above was fubar. Because I like to know how things work, I dismantled it with no expectations to reassemble. The reset button is threaded into the housing at a specific depth tolerance. The small nut is a lock nut to prevent any adjustments. The thermal switch is not a serviceable item.




 
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39 LaSalle

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Hoorn, that column looks great.

39 LaSalle, Mattblast does awesome work. I recently had him remake a few badges for me. This is the original model # data plate off my 100.

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And this is the decal Mattblast made for me. I cut a piece of aluminum and mounted it. Although my stamped model number is not perfect (I only had one set of stamps), the decal was outstanding.

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Just an FYI, he may not need your artwork, he has a lot of templates on file at this point and may have all the templates you need. If you have some good pics of the originals (before obliteration) and proper measurements, he can probably work from that.

Those do look good...except...and I don't mean to be nitpicky, and this is probably going to drive you nuts when I say it because it's been driving me nuts seeing it...notice that the word "ARTICLE" has been misprinted as "ARTICAL" on your badge. That's just me though, I spent years in the business of proofreading things.

Otherwise, yes, they look great. I've been in touch with Matt and sent him artwork. From what he has indicated, I'm guessing he's having difficulty with the files I sent but he hasn't told me what that difficulty is, so we're kind of in limbo right now. Oddly, he hasn't said anything to me about already having the artwork on hand from previous projects. So I don't know, I may end up having to pursue another course.

In other news, I have gotten the all the head parts greased and assembled. So far everything is looking and feeling good. I have decided to take another last stab at getting my base separated from the column and cleaning the column up some more before putting it all back together.

I did get the motor taken apart, cleaned up, and repainted. To my surprise, the wiring was in pretty good shape, so other than replacing the cord I decided to not tear into it any further. I then reassembled the motor sans the stator band (because I have to get the motor tag recreated and attached), and it runs fine.

I also ordered a new set of handles from J.W. Winco and they should be here in a few days. Otherwise, my DP project is somewhat stalled until I can get the badges recreated and get the column/base situation settled to my satisfaction.
 

11b30b4

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39 LaSalle, HOLY ****! you are correct. Since I am dyslexic, spelling has been the bane of my writing life. To add insult to injury, I never really grasped some of the simplest grammatical rules. The use of to, two, too, although a simple thing is often perplexing to me.

Anyway, I will eventually replace the decal but for not its not high on my list of things to do. I would have never noticed it until you pointed it out. Thanks for notifying me and good luck with the DP.
 
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