Craftsman Drill Press

[Bro-Dozer]

@FrankLee - Good morning. This has been a fun project! Glad I found this thread. All you guys have been too cool.

I do not think the belt is original. It is a 'Bando-King A-34'. Great name right? What size do I need?

Images of motor mount below [which seems to match the catalog] and two of topside front.

@Hoorn - thank you. Satin Rustoleum was a good call. However, I am really wondering if the Power Bronze was actually the original color of this unit? Doesn't matter, looks great.

 

[FrankLee]

@FrankLee - Good morning. This has been a fun project! Glad I found this thread. All you guys have been too cool.

I do not think the belt is original. It is a 'Bando-King A-34'. Great name right? What size do I need?

Images of motor mount below [which seems to match the catalog] and two of topside front.

@Hoorn - thank you. Satin Rustoleum was a good call. However, I am really wondering if the Power Bronze was actually the original color of this unit? Doesn't matter, looks great.

Thanks for the pictures... very interesting.


A couple observations and comments...

I agree, the belt is not oe. Belt sizing is rather odd. I think that A-34 belt is 36" around the outside circumference. IIRC, the belt size on earlier 12-1/4" models is 38". The motor mount on your machine is very close to the head casting and the slots on the upper motor mount are at the minimum adjustment. I believe a 38" belt would work fine.

BUT, your motor pulley looks larger than your spindle pulley. It may be an illusion. IIRC, the largest step on the spindle pulley is 4". The largest step on the motor pulley looks like ~5". That means that you may need to make motor mount adjustments if switching belt positions.


Try this:

• Move the motor mount out so the screws are in the middle of those slots.
• Measure the largest step diameter on the spindle pulley and the smallest step on the motor pulley.
• Make sure the motor shaft is near parallel to the column or spindle and measure the distance between the center of the spindle and the center of the motor shaft.
• Plug those numbers into this v-belt calculator.
  
  Then:
• Measure the largest step diameter on the motor pulley and the smallest step on the spindle pulley.
• Plug those numbers into the v-belt calculator.
  
• Compare those results.
  If ~equal, you're ok. That result should be a good belt length. If not equal, ?

 

[Cruzan80]

In the rare department, although it was not a 100, from what I have read here the rare one appears to be a 1941/42 Mohawk floor model 103.0304 which Cruzan80 stated never appeared in a catalog, which I found interesting.

Correct, the .0304 is speculated to only have been shipped to stores in 1942. The 42 and 43 catalog show the bench versions. There are two numbers associated with the bench model, .0303 and .0305 (anecdotally, it seems like there are more .0305 around). There are some differences between the two, and the .0304 I have matches heads with the .0303 I have. The last catalog I have seen is a small 1943, and then in 1948, it starts the "100" series. I have a motor dated 4/47 on mine, and I have heard of motors from Jan 47, but not earlier (found on a 100 series drill press). IIRC, some people have found Atlas-made Craftsman drill presses with war-time date codes, but I don't recall any King Seeley models.

While I hesitate to use "rare" on mass-produced machinery, this is one of the harder to find models out there. Others include the Atlas-made Cabinet saw, the 20" (or 24", can't remember) Parks LARGE planer, Comet 12" radial arm saw,and the 5198 6" swivel vise. I hesitate to put the 18" Parks bandsaw in this category, as it seems to pop up more often than the others (wood/metal being rarer than just wood). Maybe "uncommon"?

In toolboxes, that is a whole different ballgame. There have been various "deluxe", "super duty" and "commercial" pieces at various time, all of which are rarer than the traditional heritage or Chevron logos. The Crown top badged AMD boxes were only available for two years, 58-59, before switching to Waterloo.

I know this is drifting a bit, but hope this helps.

Sent from my IN2015 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Hoorn]

Hoorn,
My power bronze 1957 100 floor model has June 57 stamped into the motor
plate and iron motor caps that are also bronze. The a fixed table and fixed motor mount all seem to zero it as a 57. Rare? Frankly, only the master knows.
In the rare department, although it was not a 100, from what I have read here the rare one appears to be a 1941/42 Mohawk floor model 103.0304 which Cruzan80 stated never appeared in a catalog, which I found interesting.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7802934&postcount=2379
although I read at least one post here with that model number.

Really appreciate you showing me your DP, I love that power bronze. Thank you. As Frank summed up, not rare, but I would definitely rate yours as uncommon because that striped motor band and PB end cap color combination only had a "one year" run, if even that.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

Good afternoon!

Both pulleys are the same size.

I used the calculator and it spit out 36" belt. Picked one up. Much better. Although, the motor mount set up was definitely a cost cutting measure. I dig this little DP. It's a keeper.

So, who is a source for a chuck key? Jacobs Multi-Craft Chuck MC8K33. 5/64 - 1/2 Capacity.

Thanks for the pictures... very interesting.


A couple observations and comments...

I agree, the belt is not oe. Belt sizing is rather odd. I think that A-34 belt is 36" around the outside circumference. IIRC, the belt size on earlier 12-1/4" models is 38". The motor mount on your machine is very close to the head casting and the slots on the upper motor mount are at the minimum adjustment. I believe a 38" belt would work fine.

BUT, your motor pulley looks larger than your spindle pulley. It may be an illusion. IIRC, the largest step on the spindle pulley is 4". The largest step on the motor pulley looks like ~5". That means that you may need to make motor mount adjustments if switching belt positions.


Try this:

• Move the motor mount out so the screws are in the middle of those slots.
• Measure the largest step diameter on the spindle pulley and the smallest step on the motor pulley.
• Make sure the motor shaft is near parallel to the column or spindle and measure the distance between the center of the spindle and the center of the motor shaft.
• Plug those numbers into this v-belt calculator.
  
  Then:
• Measure the largest step diameter on the motor pulley and the smallest step on the spindle pulley.
• Plug those numbers into the v-belt calculator.
  
• Compare those results.
  If ~equal, you're ok. That result should be a good belt length. If not equal, ?

 

[ericlar80]

Can't believe I'm not getting this myself. Free shop press in SoCal:
https://ventura.craigslist.org/tls/d/camarillo-free-20-ton-shop-press-harbor/7281999000.html

edit - oops, wrong thread!

 

[FrankLee]

Good afternoon!

Both pulleys are the same size.

I used the calculator and it spit out 36" belt. Picked one up. Much better. Although, the motor mount set up was definitely a cost cutting measure. I dig this little DP. It's a keeper.

So, who is a source for a chuck key? Jacobs Multi-Craft Chuck MC8K33. 5/64 - 1/2 Capacity.

Cool. Glad that was easy.

Thinking about it more, the earlier 12-1/4" machines had a thicker cast iron motor mount and a thicker cast iron motor base. So, a longer 38" belt on earlier machines make sense.

Yeah, that mount looks much more finicky to get the motor installed and the mount adjusted correctly. But the pivot feature is a plus.

Jacobs keys are based on the pilot size. I didn't see your chuck model number on Jacobs website, but you should be able to contact them to get the key number and/or tooth count.

 

[pikapp]

Can anyone tell me if they have ever seen a drill press with the name =Craftsman= along the bottom base as depicted in this 1957 catalog?

Also, the "Lock-type" key chuck shown as an option is what Frank refers to as a Supreme chuck 15T33C on page 187 of this thread. What benefits does this chuck have over the standard Jacobs chuck?

Hoorn,
Although that appears to be another catalog error, saw a similar one on a Mohawk. The question is not did they but, why didn't they? I think it looks great. May start looking for a decal the right size and put it on the table of my 46 benchtop DP. I'm kinda partial to it but, then again that's just me.

 

[Hoorn]

Hoorn,
Although that appears to be another catalog error, saw a similar one on a Mohawk. The question is not did they but, why didn't they? I think it looks great. May start looking for a decal the right size and put it on the table of my 46 benchtop DP. I'm kinda partial to it but, then again that's just me.

Yes I see you're all in on Craftsman!
Im a Craftsman guy myself, mostly old stuff.
I wish Craftsman would adopt a new logo with a vintage feel to it. The current logo has been around at minimum 40 years. The Long C, heritage and crowntop all had finite lifespans, a new vintage type logo, plus a gesture of basic hand tools made in America would go a long way to revive the brand.

 

[Bro-Dozer]

I think it is worth noting for the future, this is what I started with, and what I ended up with.

Model is 103.23590, deemed in the range of 1965.
I paid $120. + Champagne Mist Rustoleum and Satin Clear Rustoleum. @10. + 'aircraft stripper' $15. This is probably not OE color, but I like it.

It runs just fine and will do exactly what I want it to do: smaller household and old car projects.

Thank you @FrankLee & @Hoorn.

SO, what is the next vintage Craftsman project I should take on?.

 

[FrankLee]

I think it is worth noting for the future, this is what I started with, and what I ended up with.

Model is 103.23590, deemed in the range of 1965.
I paid $120. + Champagne Mist Rustoleum and Satin Clear Rustoleum. @10. + 'aircraft stripper' $15. This is probably not OE color, but I like it.

It runs just fine and will do exactly what I want it to do: smaller household and old car projects.

Thank you @FrankLee & @Hoorn.

SO, what is the next vintage Craftsman project I should take on?.

And thank you for posting your work! IIRC, that is the first refurb of that model featured here.

Earlier 12-1/4" drill presses shared the same feed return spring as early 15-1/2" drill presses. I'm assuming the 103.23590 shared the same double-loop spring as later 15-1/2" drill presses.

Next project? Whatever pops up.

 

[pikapp]

Yes I see you're all in on Craftsman!
Im a Craftsman guy myself, mostly old stuff.
I wish Craftsman would adopt a new logo with a vintage feel to it. The current logo has been around at minimum 40 years. The Long C, heritage and crowntop all had finite lifespans, a new vintage type logo, plus a gesture of basic hand tools made in America would go a long way to revive the brand.

I feel the same way about Craftsman.
Wish they would make stuff in America again but, the cost would be silly I'm sure. A new logo would be welcome but, it would have to have to acknowledge the log history as you say I originally got interested in restoring the shiny power hand tools. Mid-fifties to mid-sixties with the all metal cases 110.** manufactured by Syncro and alot of 315.** manufactured by Deihl. I originally was interested in those through my Dad. He had a 5/16 shovel handled drill he bought in the early sixties that will still cheerfully pop your arm out of the socket if you drill into something tough. I was looking for more info on those and wound up here. Frank spun me into his 217 page web of special tools, techniques, knowledge and killer photography (have you seen his cutaways!) and all the other knowledgeable, creative contributors. I never knew anything about drill presses and now I find them facinating. It's a interesting place to keep up with.

 

[AtlasRearden]

How long does it usually take for Citric Acid to work its magic on rust? I've had these parts soaking for 3 hours or so, and there still seems to be a lot of rust if I look close. Is it safe to leave all these hardware items soaking? It seems like the paint is starting to come off the table, but it looks like it might just be a cheap rattle can paint job that was applied at some point.



I have a more detailed rundown of my cleaning process so far outlined here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8968503#post8968503

 

[Hoorn]

I feel the same way about Craftsman.
Wish they would make stuff in America again but, the cost would be silly I'm sure. A new logo would be welcome but, it would have to have to acknowledge the log history as you say I originally got interested in restoring the shiny power hand tools. Mid-fifties to mid-sixties with the all metal cases 110.** manufactured by Syncro and alot of 315.** manufactured by Deihl. I originally was interested in those through my Dad. He had a 5/16 shovel handled drill he bought in the early sixties that will still cheerfully pop your arm out of the socket if you drill into something tough. I was looking for more info on those and wound up here. Frank spun me into his 217 page web of special tools, techniques, knowledge and killer photography (have you seen his cutaways!) and all the other knowledgeable, creative contributors. I never knew anything about drill presses and now I find them facinating. It's a interesting place to keep up with.

I couldn't agree more about Craftsman. And I'm also with you on Frank's "Craftsman drill press" thread that has roped me in but good. I had a few questions about my 150, which led to this thread, which led to me reading it in its entirety twice, to a full on restoration, annnnd now I'm looking for another drill press.
Do I need another? Nope. But this thread triggered something in me and now it's like crack lol. I check OfferUp and FB obsessively now, scouring the pages for that "mint 100/150 w vari-slow and the optional table lift" that the kids are selling from grandpa's garage for $50 just to get rid of it.
So thanks for that Frank!

And Bro-Dozer, your DP came out great. Should be good for another 60 years of service.

 

[FrankLee]

How long does it usually take for Citric Acid to work its magic on rust? I've had these parts soaking for 3 hours or so, and there still seems to be a lot of rust if I look close. Is it safe to leave all these hardware items soaking? It seems like the paint is starting to come off the table, but it looks like it might just be a cheap rattle can paint job that was applied at some point.


I have a more detailed rundown of my cleaning process so far outlined here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8968503#post8968503

I generally don't soak large cast iron parts in citric acid. For tables, bases and head castings with good original paint, I'll clean with G-O first. Then, if there is light rust on the painted surfaces, I'll apply a coating of liquid Bar Keepers Friend and let that sit for 30-60 minutes. Rust on the milled portion of tables and bases get sanded off with a finishing sander.

I have soaked smaller cast iron parts in CA after G-O; motor caps, motor bases, grinder parts and vises, but not often.


In your thread link, you said you used one tbsp of CA per gallon. That's not enough. I probably use 2-3 tbsp per QUART of water. That's another benefit of CA; you can easily adjust the strength. The water is usually hot tap water. This is for smaller steel parts, not cast iron. I'll leave parts soaking for several hours. Columns usually soak overnight up to 24 hours.


I'm still working on dp#97. It was poorly repainted. I currently have the base soaking in a strong solution of Simple Green that is removing the re-painted coat. It's not removing the original paint. I will likely repaint when the weather warms up.

I'm also working on dp#98 and have a couple parts parts soaking. I'll post some results later.

 

[AtlasRearden]

I generally don't soak large cast iron parts in citric acid. For tables, bases and head castings with good original paint, I'll clean with G-O first. Then, if there is light rust on the painted surfaces, I'll apply a coating of liquid Bar Keepers Friend and let that sit for 30-60 minutes. Rust on the milled portion of tables and bases get sanded off with a finishing sander.

What if there's heavier rust on the bottom of the base? How would you tackle that?

I'm still working on dp#97. It was poorly repainted. I currently have the base soaking in a strong solution of Simple Green that is removing the re-painted coat. It's not removing the original paint. I will likely repaint when the weather warms up.

How can I determine the original color of my unit? The light grey paint started coming off, and since it looks like it's been oversprayed in places, I'm assuming that it's not original. But I also can't really determine any original color beneath it. It has an external tension knob, and it's obviously a 150 per the badging, so assuming that makes it an "early" 150 which started in 1958, per your post here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6500642

I'm thinking maybe mine could be the dark charcoal color seen here?: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8950621

 

[FrankLee]

What if there's heavier rust on the bottom of the base? How would you tackle that?



How can I determine the original color of my unit? The light grey paint started coming off, and since it looks like it's been oversprayed in places, I'm assuming that it's not original. But I also can't really determine any original color beneath it. It has an external tension knob, and it's obviously a 150 per the badging, so assuming that makes it an "early" 150 which started in 1958, per your post here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6500642

I'm thinking maybe mine could be the dark charcoal color seen here?: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8950621

I've used wire wheels to remove heavy rust on bases and then Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer.


I believe your original paint is the charcoal gray. Have you removed the head frame trim panel yet? When repainted, those are seldom removed. The original color should be underneath.

I may need to revisit and adjust that post. With the external tension knob, yours is definitely an early 150, but in charcoal gray. It also has the 103 King-Seeley model number prefix.

My dp#23 and dp#66 were both Power Bronze machines, but I believe both bases were repainted Power Bronze at the factory over dark charcoal gray.

 

[AtlasRearden]

I've used wire wheels to remove heavy rust on bases and then Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer.


I believe your original paint is the charcoal gray. Have you removed the head frame trim panel yet? When repainted, those are seldom removed. The original color should be underneath.

I may need to revisit and adjust that post. With the external tension knob, yours is definitely an early 150, but in charcoal gray. It also has the 103 King-Seeley model number prefix.

My dp#23 and dp#66 were both Power Bronze machines, but I believe both bases were repainted Power Bronze at the factory over dark charcoal gray.

I removed the trim ring, and it appears to have been painted underneath as well.


When I removed the table from the citric acid bath and started scrubbing it, a lot of the light gray paint came along with it. Assuming that is original paint underneath, then it does appear to be dark charcoal.


Although, the section of the base that was covered with sheet metal also had what appears to be charcoal paint on it. Isn't this portion of the base supposed to be bare metal?


Any tips for removing the paint from that badge plate on the base without ruining it?

 

[FrankLee]

I removed the trim ring, and it appears to have been painted underneath as well.


When I removed the table from the citric acid bath and started scrubbing it, a lot of the light gray paint came along with it. Assuming that is original paint underneath, then it does appear to be dark charcoal.


Although, the section of the base that was covered with sheet metal also had what appears to be charcoal paint on it. Isn't this portion of the base supposed to be bare metal?


Any tips for removing the paint from that badge plate on the base without ruining it?

That's fairly uncommon that a previous owner removed the trim panel to repaint.

Some earlier models had that base plateau milled flat and unpainted. Yours was not milled. I once tried belt sanding a non-milled base plateau and regretted it.

I haven't tried to remove paint from a badge trying to save the original finish. Perhaps someone can offer suggestions. I have heard of using a slow cooker to remove paint from small parts. Maybe dipping in boiling water may soften the paint enough to scrape it off with your finger nail. I've never tried it though.

 

[Outlawmws]

I've saved rattle canned logo plates with slow applicants of Simple Green on Paper towels, the laid i paint on the logos is much more resilient than the rattle can, and you can lift it off. You will need toothpicks or sharpened wood matches for some as it sticks better in the nooks and crannies. Take it maybe 15 min at a time

Room temp only! Heat is more than you want to subject the underlying original paint to

 

[AtlasRearden]

That's fairly uncommon that a previous owner removed the trim panel to repaint.

Yeah, I can see how that would be the case. But given the dark charcoal color under the sheet metal on the base, I'm assuming that's perhaps what took place?

Some earlier models had that base plateau milled flat and unpainted. Yours was not milled. I once tried belt sanding a non-milled base plateau and regretted it.

Ah! That's really good to know. For some reason, I thought they were all milled/raw metal. If that's not how mine was originally, then it seems like I should just paint it.

On the topic of paint, what is the general consensus on the best way to prep for paint? My plan was to use an angle grinder with a wire wheel and wire cup to give the base a good brushing, and then rub the whole thing down with mineral spirits before paint. Sound good?

And if I'm trying to make it look as close to original as possible, what is the best paint to go with? Is Rust-Oleum Dark Machine Grey the right way to go?

I realize this is a personal preference thing, but I'm just wondering if there's a "go to" for best originality, durability, etc. The date code on my motor seems to indicate July 1962, by the way.

I've saved rattle canned logo plates with slow applicants of Simple Green on Paper towels, the laid i paint on the logos is much more resilient than the rattle can, and you can lift it off. You will need toothpicks or sharpened wood matches for some as it sticks better in the nooks and crannies. Take it maybe 15 min at a time

Room temp only! Heat is more than you want to subject the underlying original paint to

Thanks for the tip! I will have to grab some Simple Green, which I don't currently have.

 

[FrankLee]

Your plan for paint prep is reasonable. I've used that method before. I've also wiped down with lacquer thinner and also sprayed down with brake cleaner before priming.

I refurbished 65 drill presses. Of those, only 4-1/2 were repainted; dp#3, dp#6, dp#35, dp#86, and dp#88 (1/2).

I was so impressed with s14kev's and itsDROCK's flat-finish paint jobs on their machines, I had to try a non-gloss finish too. They used Rustoleum Flat Soft Iron. I used Matte Metallic Gunmetal Gray.

Bro-Dozer recently completed his refurb with a Satin Clear overcoat. I really like a non-gloss finish.

I'm planning to repaint dp#97 and I’m starting to think about color options.

There is a link in post#1 with examples of color options and paint schemes others have used.

 

[AtlasRearden]

Thank you for the additional links. I did see the link on colors from post #1. I really like the look of some of the non-traditional colors, but I think I'm going to keep it more original. Even if I had gone with Dark Machine Gray, I was thinking about a satin clear overcoat. But the Flat Soft Iron looks very nice. Either seems like a good homage to the original color, but perhaps the metallic element of the Flat Soft Iron earns a few more style points...

 

[FrankLee]

Thank you for the additional links. I did see the link on colors from post #1. I really like the look of some of the non-traditional colors, but I think I'm going to keep it more original. Even if I had gone with Dark Machine Gray, I was thinking about a satin clear overcoat. But the Flat Soft Iron looks very nice. Either seems like a good homage to the original color, but perhaps the metallic element of the Flat Soft Iron earns a few more style points...

Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray is not all that dark. It's still very different than the early gray color. Flat Soft Iron is not real close to to the original charcoal gray either, but IMO, it's an excellent choice. But honestly, if you choose what YOU like, you can't go wrong.

 

[AtlasRearden]

Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray is not all that dark. It's still very different than the early gray color. Flat Soft Iron is not real close to to the original charcoal gray either, but IMO, it's an excellent choice. But honestly, if you choose what YOU like, you can't go wrong.

What do you think is very close to the original gray color?

If the paint I'm seeing beneath the sheet metal on my base is the original paint, then it does look pretty dark.

 

[FrankLee]

What do you think is very close to the original gray color?

If the paint I'm seeing beneath the sheet metal on my base is the original paint, then it does look pretty dark.

I don't really know. I know I've seen some repaints that were closer; maybe in this thread or others. Hopefully someone will chime in.

Yes, that paint under the sheet metal looks original.

 

[lafester]

I like this color, but it comes out as dark blue rather then grey.
I don't know why it is so hard to find a nice dark grey.

 

[LesserSon]

I agree: it’s just about impossible to find the “right” gray. Side by side, most modern grays looks milky-purple to my eye. I think there are multiple reasons. For one thing, paint is not made from the same ingredients (upside is, it’s far less toxic). Also, those ingredients don’t seem to layer quite the same as they dry. Modern paint seems more opaque or at least more plastic-uniform. The color is right there, with little depth. There’s a grainy, pearlescent quality to the old stuff - it has structure. Another reason, what we’re trying to match has been exposed to nitrogen, oxygen and abrasive wear for multiple decades. Plus, rust stains the paint and there’s an accumulated film of nicotine and/or dried oil on a lot of stuff. Finally, memory - I’m sure there are a few guys around who saw these things new, and a few of them may remember correctly what they looked like, but even things that have been stored, unused and out of direct sun don’t look exactly as they did fresh out of the box, and memory plays tricks.

 

[AtlasRearden]

Good points, and thanks to all for the feedback.

For whatever it's worth, it looks like this spot I believe to be the original paint is fairly well preserved, and in case anyone is interested, here's a closeup.

In the shade:


In the direct sunlight:

 

[Cruzan80]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

So...contrary to popular opinion, I found the 103.0304 actually advertised! Pg 1190, Sears Fall Winter 1942. By then, it looks like the motors were only separate, due to war-time restrictions.

Sent from my IN2015 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

So...contrary to popular opinion, I found the 103.0304 actually advertised! Pg 1190, Sears Fall Winter 1942. By then, it looks like the motors were only separate, due to war-time restrictions.

Nice find! Thanks for posting.

It's also another catalog example of the large "CRAFTSMAN" logo printed on the side of the head frame that never really existed.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8960246

 

[Cruzan80]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Yes, in real life, the winged ball bearing decal moves up to where the Craftsman name appears. If I repaint one, I am tempted to do a "catalog" version, and upload it just to mess with people. Hmm...April isn't too far away...

Sent from my IN2015 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[zeven7]

Hello all,
Thank you for the inspiration as I go through and begin the restoration work on two Craftsman 100's (a floor model and a benchtop.) The detailed information included in Frank as well as many of the other members here has made tearing down the machines much more approachable. I'll post pictures of the progress and likely start a new forum thread to follow along as soon as I can hit the post threshold to allow me to do so. I also need to order the o-rings from Frank but am unable to PM him as of yet. Frank if you can reach out to me, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again all and I look forward to participating in the forums!

 

[FrankLee]

Hello all,
Thank you for the inspiration as I go through and begin the restoration work on two Craftsman 100's (a floor model and a benchtop.) The detailed information included in Frank as well as many of the other members here has made tearing down the machines much more approachable. I'll post pictures of the progress and likely start a new forum thread to follow along as soon as I can hit the post threshold to allow me to do so. I also need to order the o-rings from Frank but am unable to PM him as of yet. Frank if you can reach out to me, I'd appreciate it. Thanks again all and I look forward to participating in the forums!

Welcome! Glad you're here!

Do you have your machines apart yet?

 

[zeven7]

And that's what I've done. Guess I'll see what happens. Here are a couple of before and after pics of my more or less completed drill press. Pardon the messy background, but I have very limited space in my garage so it becomes something like a Chinese puzzle shifting things around to make things fit.

I'm fairly pleased with how it all turned out considering with what I started with. Learned a lot along the way, and got to meet some great folks here who tutored me through the process. I still wish I could have gotten the column off the base, but maybe I'll revisit that again later in the year. I also installed a removable pull chain switch lamp fixture up inside the head with a cheap "U" bracket. That should be quite beneficial.

Now I can give those Vari-slo parts a quick rinse off and list those up for sale to see if anyone is interested.

39 LaSalle - Awesome job on the restoration. I'm starting the restoration process on two 100's (a floor model and a benchtop.) I'm interested in your Vari-Slo parts but haven't hit the 10 post threshold yet. Any chance you can reach out to me to work out the details? Thanks,
-Jesse
Corona, CA

 

[zeven7]

Welcome! Glad you're here!

Do you have your machines apart yet?

Hi Frank,

I have the benchtop model mostly disassembled and the floor model is fully intact.
I did pick up a 1/2 HP period correct motor as well for a 3rd press that is in mostly restored condition. That motor is completely apart. I'm going to start paint stripping the bells on it this weekend and am ordering bearings for it as well.
The quill bearings in from the benchtop press seem to be in fairly good shape but since it's apart, I think I'm still going to replace them. I don't have a shop press or bearing puller so I am debating whether to pull and press myself or have them done at a machine shop. Not sure if a small arbor press is sufficient for the job or if I need the standing press (I may invest in a standup given that I've got about 8 other machines that I'm going to start restoring as well.)
Once again thanks and look forward to participating on the forum!

-Jesse
Corona, CA

 

[39 LaSalle]

39 LaSalle - Awesome job on the restoration. I'm starting the restoration process on two 100's (a floor model and a benchtop.) I'm interested in your Vari-Slo parts but haven't hit the 10 post threshold yet. Any chance you can reach out to me to work out the details? Thanks,
-Jesse
Corona, CA

Thanks, and sure. I'll PM you my email. Meanwhile here is the listing for what I have. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475523

 

[FrankLee]

Hi Frank,

I have the benchtop model mostly disassembled and the floor model is fully intact.
I did pick up a 1/2 HP period correct motor as well for a 3rd press that is in mostly restored condition. That motor is completely apart. I'm going to start paint stripping the bells on it this weekend and am ordering bearings for it as well.
The quill bearings in from the benchtop press seem to be in fairly good shape but since it's apart, I think I'm still going to replace them. I don't have a shop press or bearing puller so I am debating whether to pull and press myself or have them done at a machine shop. Not sure if a small arbor press is sufficient for the job or if I need the standing press (I may invest in a standup given that I've got about 8 other machines that I'm going to start restoring as well.)
Once again thanks and look forward to participating on the forum!

-Jesse
Corona, CA

Many times, the spindle will just slide out of the bearings (my dp#98). No press required. Other times a rubber mallet will persuade the spindle out of the quill.

Did you run into any issue or problems taking the first machine apart?

Looking forward to pictures.

 

[FrankLee]

Thank you for the additional links. I did see the link on colors from post #1. I really like the look of some of the non-traditional colors, but I think I'm going to keep it more original. Even if I had gone with Dark Machine Gray, I was thinking about a satin clear overcoat. But the Flat Soft Iron looks very nice. Either seems like a good homage to the original color, but perhaps the metallic element of the Flat Soft Iron earns a few more style points...

Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray is not all that dark. It's still very different than the early gray color. Flat Soft Iron is not real close to to the original charcoal gray either, but IMO, it's an excellent choice. But honestly, if you choose what YOU like, you can't go wrong.

I went to pick up some paint for a couple projects and saw this Rustoleum Black Stainless Steel. It looks very close to some oe motor paint colors and not too far off of the darker drill press paint. Cap color, though, is never an exact indicator of actual contents.

I'm not sure why the capacitor covers were all painted gloss black tho.

​

 

[Reversepolarity]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Picked up a new project today. Already has a jack shaft pulley in the post. Been looking for a mohawk for quite a while.







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