Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Ack
Very late heritage badged atlas made dp with belt cover and lift..... Someone really *****! 
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Ack
Very late heritage badged atlas made dp with belt cover and lift..... Someone really *****! Frank
Clearly these presses are 50-70 years old. Finding a pristine one or even excellent one is challenging to be sure.
How many perfect drill tables have you brought through your door out of the 100+ of these things you have picked up?
How rare is a table without drill holes, a smile or an arc of shame?
Clearly these presses are 50-70 years old. Finding a pristine one or even excellent one is challenging to be sure.
How many perfect drill tables have you brought through your door out of the 100+ of these things you have picked up?
How rare is a table without drill holes, a smile or an arc of shame?
Perfect? Zero.
Probably only 5 had no holes in the table, but the paint was not perfect.
You're right... because of the age of these machines, there's always something.
I've probably had 15-20 that cleaned up exceptionally well. DP#32 was probably the nicest. This one did have an excellent table. The original owner must have installed plywood on the table day one, but after all that time, it was blemished. There was also paint on the base were he must have painted the floor. So there's always something.
Deker
Well-known member
Finally got around to finishing the restoration of my 100 drill press and thought I would share. This thread was tremendously helpful through the entire process. My machine was in decent shape cosmetically but suffered from a lot of the common issues encountered here, such as bent spindle pulley retaining screws, missing quill bumper, worn spindle pulley bearings, lack of pre-compression in the quill bearings, etc.
On the latter, it looked like a PO had taken the spindle assembly apart but couldn't compress the rubber washer enough to fully seat the set screw on the collar during reassembly. They ended up replacing the rubber washer with a thinner one in order to get the collar back on correctly, but pre-compression was lost. Shown pictured is the POs replacement washer next to the o-ring I swapped out in its place.
I purchased a pivoting motor mount from another member here to replace the original, and I love how quick and easy it is to change belt positions now.
The only piece missing is the nut for the table tilt lock cylinder, but luckily Frank had a spare that he was willing to sell that is being shipped now to help me complete my machine.
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On the latter, it looked like a PO had taken the spindle assembly apart but couldn't compress the rubber washer enough to fully seat the set screw on the collar during reassembly. They ended up replacing the rubber washer with a thinner one in order to get the collar back on correctly, but pre-compression was lost. Shown pictured is the POs replacement washer next to the o-ring I swapped out in its place.
I purchased a pivoting motor mount from another member here to replace the original, and I love how quick and easy it is to change belt positions now.
The only piece missing is the nut for the table tilt lock cylinder, but luckily Frank had a spare that he was willing to sell that is being shipped now to help me complete my machine.
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Deker
Well-known member
Deker
Well-known member
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Beautiful work Deker.
Hoorn
Well-known member
Deker, great job! Fantastic paint choice, well done motor band, and love that pivoting motor mount!
Deker
Well-known member
Good day, Frank. I discovered this forum while looking for some information about a drill press that I inherited from my father-in-law about 20 years ago. The drill press in question is a 1950s vintage Craftsman model 103.23140 floor model. My father-in-law was a mechanic and used it in his garage business for many years. I am a hobby woodworker and anticipated using it for purposes other than those that it was used for in its earlier life.
I acquired a mortising attachment for it and discovered that in order to attach it to the bottom of the quill, where the depth stop is mounted, I must remove the chuck because the OD of the chuck is larger than the ID of the mortise attachment.
The problem that I have is that since I have removed the chuck and mounted the mortising attachment, I’ve not been able to seat the chuck so that the friction between the socket on the chuck and the taper on the quill is sufficient to hold the chuck and prevent it from coming loose while it is being used. In the middle of cutting a mortise in a piece of wood, the chuck falls off the quill and the boring action ceases.
From what I have read on this site, you seem to be the guru for Craftsman Drill Presses. What do you suggest? How can I remount the chuck firmly? The other possibility that I’ve thought of is to purchase a smaller chuck that will fit through the hole in the mortising attachment.
Thanks,
Bob Elser
I acquired a mortising attachment for it and discovered that in order to attach it to the bottom of the quill, where the depth stop is mounted, I must remove the chuck because the OD of the chuck is larger than the ID of the mortise attachment.
The problem that I have is that since I have removed the chuck and mounted the mortising attachment, I’ve not been able to seat the chuck so that the friction between the socket on the chuck and the taper on the quill is sufficient to hold the chuck and prevent it from coming loose while it is being used. In the middle of cutting a mortise in a piece of wood, the chuck falls off the quill and the boring action ceases.
From what I have read on this site, you seem to be the guru for Craftsman Drill Presses. What do you suggest? How can I remount the chuck firmly? The other possibility that I’ve thought of is to purchase a smaller chuck that will fit through the hole in the mortising attachment.
Thanks,
Bob Elser
Welcome Bob!
It sounds like you have an early machine with the Jacobs 6A chuck without the safety collar. Later machine came equipped with the Jacobs 633C chuck.
First, inspect the mating taper surfaces for damage.
When installing any chuck, the spindle taper and the female chuck taper must be VERY clean. I usually wipe off the spindle with lacquer thinner and spray out the chuck taper with a cleaner and then compressed air. IIRC, the manual says to lightly coat the spindle taper with oil and tap the body of the chuck from below with a piece of wood.
Obviously, this procedure is not possible with the mortising attachment. To improvise, you could loosely chuck the largest wooden dowel possible (1/2"?) that fits through the mortising chisel attachment and strike that from below.
Another option would be to make a small "bridge" from scrap that fits sideways through the attachment below the chuck and use the feed handle to press on the chuck.
If the chuck still falls off, the taper may be damaged.
Also, review the conversation starting here how member 11B30B4 (Jeff) used a sharpie to determine the fit of the spindle taper to the chuck taper.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Once you have discerned and rectified any damage to the taper, use the press to press it in tight - get a block of wood under it so so can put some pressure on. A longer heavier drill bit should work for this as well.
Hoorn
Well-known member
I got lucky with this MSA pulley. Was on eBay when this popped up for $95. I bought it immediately as I rarely see them for under $265+ and usually they are in the $300s. This is the condition I received it in, which I was very happy with. Moves/spins very freely.
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Forgottonia
Well-known member
Question: What's the best way to get a metal burr out that's stuck up in the chuck? The chuck on mine binds up as I try to close it down on small drill bits. Can't close it all the way. It works fine on larger bits. So I suspect there's a metal burr wedged up in there someplace. I've tried blowing it out with an air hose, and tapping lightly. (Okay, maybe more than just lightly.) But the chuck still sticks. Seems like this should be an easy fix. But it's stubborn.
Edit: It's a Craftsman circa early 90s, full size. I've popped the chuck out and tried tapping. But no.
Edit: It's a Craftsman circa early 90s, full size. I've popped the chuck out and tried tapping. But no.
Deker, thats is a nice rebuild.
Hoorn, that is almost a "you ****" find. Outstanding!
Forgottonia, some pictures would help us help you. If it is as new as you say (90s) then disassembling the chuck may not be easy or even possible. The older Jacobs branded chuck can be disassembled and cleaned or even rebuilt. If its a newer chicom chuck, it may just be easier to replace it. Post some pics of what you are dealing with and we should be able to help you out.
Hoorn, that is almost a "you ****" find. Outstanding!
Forgottonia, some pictures would help us help you. If it is as new as you say (90s) then disassembling the chuck may not be easy or even possible. The older Jacobs branded chuck can be disassembled and cleaned or even rebuilt. If its a newer chicom chuck, it may just be easier to replace it. Post some pics of what you are dealing with and we should be able to help you out.
Anyone in Ocala, FL
There is a power bronze 150 going for cheap in this ad from facebook marketplace.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/393913828249140/
There is a power bronze 150 going for cheap in this ad from facebook marketplace.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/393913828249140/
Hi Frank,
I've cleaned the taper and socket of the chuck as well as I can and have tried the 1/2" dowel trick (which, by the way, I had tried before) but still no joy. After trial mortise bore, the chuck fell out again. So, I cleaned the taper again and marked it with a magic marker as described in your reference. I seated the chuck and rotated it. Interestingly, the only part of the taper that showed any change in the magic marker ink was about 1/8" at the tip, uniformly around the taper. Here is a picture (I hope this works as this is my first attempt at posting a picture).
Thanks for your help.
Bob
I've cleaned the taper and socket of the chuck as well as I can and have tried the 1/2" dowel trick (which, by the way, I had tried before) but still no joy. After trial mortise bore, the chuck fell out again. So, I cleaned the taper again and marked it with a magic marker as described in your reference. I seated the chuck and rotated it. Interestingly, the only part of the taper that showed any change in the magic marker ink was about 1/8" at the tip, uniformly around the taper. Here is a picture (I hope this works as this is my first attempt at posting a picture).
Thanks for your help.
Bob
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No easy way to fix that. Looks like it has been spun. High spot on the bottom edge. I expect maybe you could chuck it up in a lathe and recut the taper. Also, a good inspection of the mating surface in the chuck might indicate that it needs significant work that a reamer could fix or work on or you might find that it is just not repairable.
Interesting. That clean mark is very uniform which makes me think the chuck is the problem
Try the marker thing again, but this time don't rotate the chuck or spindle. Also, mark the body of the chuck and the thrust collar above. Keep the initial marks lined up.
After removing the chuck, I'm thinking there should be one short clean mark on the end of the taper. Or maybe two, 180 degrees apart.
What I would do, with 1000/1200 grit sandpaper, judiciously sand the clean spot. Repeat until more of the taper gets clean. I can't predict what this will do for runout though.
A better option may be to try another chuck with the marker test. That would verify whether the issue is with the spindle or chuck or both.
Another option would be to use a green retaining compound to secure the chuck to the spindle. This option would make it more difficult to remove the chuck from the spindle.
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Forgottonia
Well-known member
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Hoorn
Well-known member
Picked this last night. Although I love my 150 in power bronze, I have always preferred the engine turned band and Heritage logo. This scratches both those itches. The 100s in power bronze are far and few between in my area so I was quite happy to find this. The date on the motor is June 1958. This must be a very late model 100 as my 150 is dated August 1958
That band I am holding up next to the original color shows how close champagne mist is to PB.
I had parted out a Walker Turner and could not part with the production table so I have a very handy stand, credit to Frank and his various bench top stands.
That band I am holding up next to the original color shows how close champagne mist is to PB.
I had parted out a Walker Turner and could not part with the production table so I have a very handy stand, credit to Frank and his various bench top stands.
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Frank,
Thanks for the suggestion which I will try tomorrow. I have to think that the problem is the chuck and not the taper since the ink removal is so uniform. This drill press was in my father-in-law's garage for probably 40 or more years. I'm sure that the chuck was driven on initially with a lot of force and never removed before I inherited it and wanted to use it for a different purpose than he did. I'm just considering purchasing a new Jacobs chuck and being done with it. I don't want to attempt to remove any metal from the taper.
Bob
Thanks for the suggestion which I will try tomorrow. I have to think that the problem is the chuck and not the taper since the ink removal is so uniform. This drill press was in my father-in-law's garage for probably 40 or more years. I'm sure that the chuck was driven on initially with a lot of force and never removed before I inherited it and wanted to use it for a different purpose than he did. I'm just considering purchasing a new Jacobs chuck and being done with it. I don't want to attempt to remove any metal from the taper.
Bob
Dp#99, 113.24290 BS, 113.27520 TS
I picked up this trio yesterday in a bundle deal. I'll be busy for a while.
A Korean War era 100 DP with lots of extra accessories. Craftsman vise, new-ish HF 29 pc drill bit set and much more.
A 1970-ish band saw.
A mid-'50s 10" table saw with a 1 hp motor.
He tossed in a rather nice 1960-ish Craftsman aluminum-body 315.25051 router motor/315.25056 router base combo and a router table.
4/28/2021
I dismantled the drill press today and started working on the band saw.
4/29/2021
The clean-up and tune-up of the band saw is complete. This was not a full-blown refurb.
Got the chuck apart and started cleaning it.
5/12/2021
Progress on dp#99. Waiting on quill bearings.
The vise is cleaned and repainted.
I picked up this trio yesterday in a bundle deal. I'll be busy for a while.
A Korean War era 100 DP with lots of extra accessories. Craftsman vise, new-ish HF 29 pc drill bit set and much more.
A 1970-ish band saw.
A mid-'50s 10" table saw with a 1 hp motor.
He tossed in a rather nice 1960-ish Craftsman aluminum-body 315.25051 router motor/315.25056 router base combo and a router table.
4/28/2021
I dismantled the drill press today and started working on the band saw.
4/29/2021
The clean-up and tune-up of the band saw is complete. This was not a full-blown refurb.
Got the chuck apart and started cleaning it.
5/12/2021
Progress on dp#99. Waiting on quill bearings.
The vise is cleaned and repainted.
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Hoorn
Well-known member
That bench top DP is nice. Can't wait to see it when you are finished. Assuming cleaner wax will remove the paint from the knobs.
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Nice score Frank. Always nice to come home with something unexpected.
Progress is being made on this early 100. This thread has been indispensable! That beautiful chromed hub was purchased from Frank. All of the chrome on this thing had that horrible popcorn ceiling look to it. Finished the motor today. I'm going to let the machine set a few days while refurbishing the stand that came with this machine so I'll have something to sit it on when it's done.
Progress is being made on this early 100. This thread has been indispensable! That beautiful chromed hub was purchased from Frank. All of the chrome on this thing had that horrible popcorn ceiling look to it. Finished the motor today. I'm going to let the machine set a few days while refurbishing the stand that came with this machine so I'll have something to sit it on when it's done.
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Nice score Frank. Always nice to come home with something unexpected.
Progress is being made on this early 100. This thread has been indispensable! That beautiful chromed hub was purchased from Frank. All of the chrome on this thing had that horrible popcorn ceiling look to it. Finished the motor today. I'm going to let the machine set a few days while refurbishing the stand that came with this machine so I'll have something to sit it on when it's done.
Beautiful work sir! I do want to call foul on your tool choice
You need to be using era correct =v= tools on this restoration not more modern v era... I guess we will let this slide this one time...
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Ha! Thanks Smokes. I actually do use BE tools when I'm working on the old Atlas and WT machines. Good eye! Those wrenches are -V- that I received as a Christmas gift when I was in high school.
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Nice ! I knew a purist like yourself with an eye for detail would probably be using era correct tools on their machines... I guess that just shows how nerdy/ocd we are
Hoorn
Well-known member
JoCo that motor is badass. Did you remove the badge to clean the band?
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Thanks Hoorn. I'm slowly but surely getting better with motors. The motor band was beyond saving so I made a new one out of aluminum. I wish the data plate would have cleaned up better. I've figured out red paint on these things comes off MUCH easier than black paint. I stopped cleaning it at the first sign of red coming off. I have a nearly pristine data plate from 49 that I considered using on this motor but decided to stick with the 47 plate. I clear coated it and consider it a homage to how nasty this machine was when I got it. I get rivets from Hansen Rivets, I'm attaching a pic of the rivets I use. I always deal with them over the phone as they're very helpful with supplying me with exactly what I need. I also sourced the anvil and punch required to install them from Hansen. The rivets pictured work great for motor data plates as well as logo badges on tool boxes.
Smokes: I just came in from working on it. You guilted me into pulling out some Circle P raised panel wrenches to work on it tonight!
Smokes: I just came in from working on it. You guilted me into pulling out some Circle P raised panel wrenches to work on it tonight!
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Thanks Hoorn. I'm slowly but surely getting better with motors. The motor band was beyond saving so I made a new one out of aluminum. I wish the data plate would have cleaned up better. I've figured out red paint on these things comes off MUCH easier than black paint. I stopped cleaning it at the first sign of red coming off. I have a nearly pristine data plate from 49 that I considered using on this motor but decided to stick with the 47 plate. I clear coated it and consider it a homage to how nasty this machine was when I got it. I get rivets from Hansen Rivets, I'm attaching a pic of the rivets I use. I always deal with them over the phone as they're very helpful with supplying me with exactly what I need. I also sourced the anvil and punch required to install them from Hansen. The rivets pictured work great for motor data plates as well as logo badges on tool boxes.
Smokes: I just came in from working on it. You guilted me into pulling out some Circle P raised panel wrenches to work on it tonight!
Glad to have sufficiently guilted you into using the era correct tools to work on this. It really adds to the experience ( or paranoia, depending on how you look at it
Hoorn
Well-known member
JoCo, really appreciate all the detail you gave me in that response. My next question was going to be about the rivets so thank you for that, they look legit.
Obviously you take your resto's very serious if a 2 year difference in badge was unacceptable AND having to work on your DP with period correct tools. Hats off to that brother!
Obviously you take your resto's very serious if a 2 year difference in badge was unacceptable AND having to work on your DP with period correct tools. Hats off to that brother!
Forgottonia, give the age of the DP, I suspect that chuck looks is one of Asian manufacture and those do not disassemble easily. Frank could probably better identify it. If it were me, I would just replace the chuck. The taper and size are stamped on it and a good quality chuck should run you 90 ish. If you get a Jacobs brand, then disassembly will be a snap.
JoCoSawdust, that stator band came out nice. Also the paint choice on that DP is great.
JoCoSawdust, that stator band came out nice. Also the paint choice on that DP is great.
I don't have any experience with the imported machines, but if you're considering replacing that chuck, you have nothing to lose if you try to dismantle it and clean it.
Check here for a Jacobs dismantle: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5042834
Check here for a Supreme dismantle: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8629027
I do have some Jacobs chucks available. Check here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=474833