Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

[D.F.B]

I also received my order or Rover Pro-Cut wheels today.





The two front wheels are pretty self-explanatory and relatively easy to find. The geared rear wheels are much harder to find. To my surprise, they are actually still available from Rover. I think what happens with these is that they are not generally stocked by retailers because of how specific they are and how much they cost. Having a set of these sitting on the shelf indefinitely would be a foolish game to play. As such, searching for these via part numbers alone yielded only one hit, and they were listed as special order. Reaching out to my previous Rover contact and the same applied. So, I ordered two sets!

If you will remember, despite replacing the drive cogs, I gained back then lost two-wheel drive, so the unit was single ******* and pulling to the left. When I pulled the wheels, one was engaging, and one wasn't. As soon as I opened the box, I knew what the problem was, the new wheels not spinning withing the "tyre" so to speak, meaning the left wheel had failed internally and was free spinning rather than engaging with the cog.

So, the unit will be pulled apart again and hopefully this puts things right. Having said that, with how the new Victa Commercial is performing, I think I may have found its replacement.

 

[D.F.B]

I think Matt goes with the product that gives him the best deal but more importantly, is open to the modifications to their products so he can own the IP if they change it for him. I have no problem with that, its just business. The problem for him is that the Euro companies that makes the best "base" products for him to do this are usually the most resistant to change and sometimes I can see his frustration with this.

Some of these companies in Europe have been doing what they have been doing for many decades (successfully) and dont see any reason to change a small component of their product for him (I would be the same), especially when then he demands he then has the sole distributorship rights to that modified product. And lets face it, his "ideas" are mostly crowd sourced anyway.

There are some products he sells that I can definitely tell he has chosen that because of the better deal, in particular certain detailing chemicals that I know for a fact that there are better alternatives.

In terms of Griots, I know it took him a very long time to convince them to sell a very small selection of their products in the OG store. I would suspect that as you say, he got nowhere attempting to influence MTM to make changes to their design, or more to the point, making changes HE wanted. So, he now sells the Griots Boss. A recent comment though suggests he is not getting much say in what Griot's sends his way.

I actually find his way of retailing very interesting. Compared to other suppliers who take on the majority or all of a brand's products, he only sells a small selection. That means he really doesn't have bargaining power as his volumes per brand are low. As someone who deals with customers, the "customer is NOT always right" attitude has me nodding in agreement.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Careful aiming that exhaust tip to the side, you'll have a hard time keeping your lines straight with the back pressure pushing you to the left ha!

Loving your detailing posts as always. I've been wondering how you would approach the care of a vehicle like mine, if you don't mind the thought experiment. It's a '95 Dodge Dakota, so much older than what you're used to working on, and it's always parked outdoors. How would you keep a daily driven vehicle looking sharp that is constantly exposed? Things like morning dew leaving water spots on every surface are always frustrating. Keep up the great work, thank you!

 

[Tactile]

There are some products he sells that I can definitely tell he has chosen that because of the better deal, in particular certain detailing chemicals that I know for a fact that there are better alternatives.

In terms of Griots, I know it took him a very long time to convince them to sell a very small selection of their products in the OG store. I would suspect that as you say, he got nowhere attempting to influence MTM to make changes to their design, or more to the point, making changes HE wanted. So, he now sells the Griots Boss. A recent comment though suggests he is not getting much say in what Griot's sends his way.

I actually find his way of retailing very interesting. Compared to other suppliers who take on the majority or all of a brand's products, he only sells a small selection. That means he really doesn't have bargaining power as his volumes per brand are low. As someone who deals with customers, the "customer is NOT always right" attitude has me nodding in agreement.

There is only one way he is going to be happy with what he is doing...he needs to do his own manufacturing. Total control of what he designs and makes. That's a whole new world financially for him but he could pull it off if he could stop ******* away money on toys!

Sometimes I shake my head at the coin he burns though (he has wrecked that Evo) when he could use it way more constructively. And continually bagging good brands (Snap-On), he doesn't do himself any favors. Each to their own though...it's his path to walk.

 

[D.F.B]

I swore I would never buy Chemical Guys again, but someone had been pestering me to try Honeydew Snow Foam, so I caved....................



And this is not an inexpensive product in Australia, in fact its fairly overpriced. Who knows, I might love it!

 

[D.F.B]

Careful aiming that exhaust tip to the side, you'll have a hard time keeping your lines straight with the back pressure pushing you to the left ha!

Loving your detailing posts as always. I've been wondering how you would approach the care of a vehicle like mine, if you don't mind the thought experiment. It's a '95 Dodge Dakota, so much older than what you're used to working on, and it's always parked outdoors. How would you keep a daily driven vehicle looking sharp that is constantly exposed? Things like morning dew leaving water spots on every surface are always frustrating. Keep up the great work, thank you!

I can't help with the water spots caused by the dew, not much is going to stop that, but I can help keeping it looking good.

I'm sure you know this already, but the key is a little bit and often. For example, I maintain my fathers company car for him, a car that sits outdoors 24/7. Now, I could go crazy and wash this thing weekly because it doesn't take him long to get it grotty again. But................. I choose to limit it to once a month. At this interval, I have found that it stops the crud from baking on and bringing the finish down in the long run. The big difference has swapping from waxes and spray sealants to using a ceramic coating on it too, in this case the super easy to apply Gyeon Can Coat EVO.

If I was to tackle your car, I would start with something pretty intensive to get it back to square one, then maintenance would be simple from there onwards. I'll put it in step form to keep this somewhat brief.

1. Sledgehammer clean on the wheels -
Starting with an iron remover, leave to soak, then rinse. I would then reapply the chemical and go in with brushes. Repeat if nessary. I would then apply something like Gyeon Wet Coat to add some gloss, while make cleaning easier next time. This step could take you an hour for four wheels.

2. Wash & Decontamination -
Without rinsing the car first, I would apply the iron remover to the whole car and leave it to soak, 5 to 10 min depending on temperature, do not let it dry. After soaking, I would foam over the iron remover with a high pH soap like Carpro Lift. Again, allow to soak for a long as possible, then rinse thoroughly. From here, I would then foam the car with an acid leaning soap like Carpro Descale and do the contact wash with a microfiber wash pad. After rinsing again, I would then take a clay mitt and clay lube and go over the whole car, including the glass. A final rinse, then dry the car.

3. Polishing -
You could probably skip this step, but if it was my car, I would. I would start with something like Sonax Perfect Finish on a yellow ShineMate foam pad, if needed I would step up to something like Rupes Coarse on the yellow pad again, or maybe the excellent Rupes yellow wool. After finding the sweet spot, I would then wipe the car down with Carpro Eraser.

4. Protection -
This is where Gyeon Can Coat EVO comes into the equation. I like this because its easy to apply and lasts for about a year with appropriate care (more on that next). Unlike full ceramic coatings, this is much more forgiving for a novice to use, think of it the gateway drug. It is a simple as a spray and wipe application. (I can elaborate if needed, there is still some technique needed for this product). Can Coat would be applied to the paint, glass, trim and head/tail lights.

5. Maintenance -
So all of the above is the hard work, but it's done to make this step going forward much easier! So if we are using my Dad's car as the example, as mentioned, I wash this car once a month.

I start with the wheels and tires using P&S Brake Buster and a couple of brushes, reapplying Gyeon Wet Coat every second wash. Then I foam the car with something like Gyeon Foam, which is a higher pH pre-wash soap designed to remove as much dirt before touching the car. Allow to soak, then rinse. I then foam with something like Carpro Reset and do the contact wash, rinse.

To dry, I used my EGO leaf blower to remove 90% of the water, then use a towel and a drying aid product like P&S Bead Maker, a light mist of product onto the paint, then wipe. This step help maintains the coating and extends its life and helping it reach that 12-month claim. Use this across all surfaces, including the glass and plastic trim. I then wipe the door jambs down with a separate towel and the Bead Maker.

The interior then gets a vacuum, the interior is then wiped down with Optimum No Rinse, including the leather. Glass is then cleaned. I then circle back to the exterior by wiping the wheels with Bead Maker, then dressing the tyres with something like Carpro Perl.

Job done! At least until he gets back into it.


As mentioned, its a big job to get the car at a starting point to then maintain. But it makes it so easy going forward. If I'm hustling, I can do that big Ranger in just over an hour. If I'm taking my time and enjoying it, then its more like two hours. My single cab Ranger, well I can have that done in 45 min. My Mustang, well that's a labor of love, so while it could take under an hour, its more like an hour and a half.

 

[MadeByMiller]

I can't help with the water spots caused by the dew, not much is going to stop that, but I can help keeping it looking good.

I'm sure you know this already, but the key is a little bit and often. For example, I maintain my fathers company car for him, a car that sits outdoors 24/7. Now, I could go crazy and wash this thing weekly because it doesn't take him long to get it grotty again. But................. I choose to limit it to once a month. At this interval, I have found that it stops the crud from baking on and bringing the finish down in the long run. The big difference has swapping from waxes and spray sealants to using a ceramic coating on it too, in this case the super easy to apply Gyeon Can Coat EVO.

If I was to tackle your car, I would start with something pretty intensive to get it back to square one, then maintenance would be simple from there onwards. I'll put it in step form to keep this somewhat brief.

1. Sledgehammer clean on the wheels -
Starting with an iron remover, leave to soak, then rinse. I would then reapply the chemical and go in with brushes. Repeat if nessary. I would then apply something like Gyeon Wet Coat to add some gloss, while make cleaning easier next time. This step could take you an hour for four wheels.

2. Wash & Decontamination -
Without rinsing the car first, I would apply the iron remover to the whole car and leave it to soak, 5 to 10 min depending on temperature, do not let it dry. After soaking, I would foam over the iron remover with a high pH soap like Carpro Lift. Again, allow to soak for a long as possible, then rinse thoroughly. From here, I would then foam the car with an acid leaning soap like Carpro Descale and do the contact wash with a microfiber wash pad. After rinsing again, I would then take a clay mitt and clay lube and go over the whole car, including the glass. A final rinse, then dry the car.

3. Polishing -
You could probably skip this step, but if it was my car, I would. I would start with something like Sonax Perfect Finish on a yellow ShineMate foam pad, if needed I would step up to something like Rupes Coarse on the yellow pad again, or maybe the excellent Rupes yellow wool. After finding the sweet spot, I would then wipe the car down with Carpro Eraser.

4. Protection -
This is where Gyeon Can Coat EVO comes into the equation. I like this because its easy to apply and lasts for about a year with appropriate care (more on that next). Unlike full ceramic coatings, this is much more forgiving for a novice to use, think of it the gateway drug. It is a simple as a spray and wipe application. (I can elaborate if needed, there is still some technique needed for this product). Can Coat would be applied to the paint, glass, trim and head/tail lights.

5. Maintenance -
So all of the above is the hard work, but it's done to make this step going forward much easier! So if we are using my Dad's car as the example, as mentioned, I wash this car once a month.

I start with the wheels and tires using P&S Brake Buster and a couple of brushes, reapplying Gyeon Wet Coat every second wash. Then I foam the car with something like Gyeon Foam, which is a higher pH pre-wash soap designed to remove as much dirt before touching the car. Allow to soak, then rinse. I then foam with something like Carpro Reset and do the contact wash, rinse.

To dry, I used my EGO leaf blower to remove 90% of the water, then use a towel and a drying aid product like P&S Bead Maker, a light mist of product onto the paint, then wipe. This step help maintains the coating and extends its life and helping it reach that 12-month claim. Use this across all surfaces, including the glass and plastic trim. I then wipe the door jambs down with a separate towel and the Bead Maker.

The interior then gets a vacuum, the interior is then wiped down with Optimum No Rinse, including the leather. Glass is then cleaned. I then circle back to the exterior by wiping the wheels with Bead Maker, then dressing the tyres with something like Carpro Perl.

Job done! At least until he gets back into it.


As mentioned, its a big job to get the car at a starting point to then maintain. But it makes it so easy going forward. If I'm hustling, I can do that big Ranger in just over an hour. If I'm taking my time and enjoying it, then its more like two hours. My single cab Ranger, well I can have that done in 45 min. My Mustang, well that's a labor of love, so while it could take under an hour, its more like an hour and a half.

Wow, you made my day with this response! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to think of and write out that message for me. Your workflow and explanations make great sense, and adding specific products is very appreciated as well. The logic of maximizing the foundation to minimize the maintenance is something I've always thought of in the back of my mind, but never had the knowledge to achieve. Of course I've tried waxing, but as I think you were alluding to in your post, it just doesn't seem to last much more than a couple of washes when being subjected to mother nature 24/7.

1. I'm curious why you choose the treat the wheels with Gyeon Wet Coat in step one rather than the same Can Coat that you would put on the rest of the vehicle? I assume it has to do with the more harsh conditions that wheels are subjected to?

2. I actually am really excited to try an iron remover. It looks so satisfying to see all of the contaminants removed in your posts. You suggest a clay lube for the clay mitt step, do you have a favorite product in this scenario? Does soapy water work?

3. Polishing is a dream of mine, a skill that I really want to acquire. The paint on my truck is not amazing, but I know a good polish job would absolutely transform the entire vehicle. Is there such thing as an all around polishing machine that is safe for a beginner like me? I've heard that DA polishers are much safer than a straight buffer?

4. I've been admiring the ease of application of the Can Coat in your posts here (you're who introduced me to the product actually) and I love that it is so approachable for me as a beginner, but provides long lasting protection compared to the waxes I've used in the past.

5. I really like the idea of your double foam wash. Do you rinse before the initial foam? I need to invest in the EGO blower that you detailed in your thread here. Hand drying is so slow and often the wind and/or beating sun can beat me to it and I end up with water spots.

Thank you again!!

 

[D.F.B]

Wow, you made my day with this response! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to think of and write out that message for me. Your workflow and explanations make great sense, and adding specific products is very appreciated as well. The logic of maximizing the foundation to minimize the maintenance is something I've always thought of in the back of my mind, but never had the knowledge to achieve. Of course I've tried waxing, but as I think you were alluding to in your post, it just doesn't seem to last much more than a couple of washes when being subjected to mother nature 24/7.

1. I'm curious why you choose the treat the wheels with Gyeon Wet Coat in step one rather than the same Can Coat that you would put on the rest of the vehicle? I assume it has to do with the more harsh conditions that wheels are subjected to?

2. I actually am really excited to try an iron remover. It looks so satisfying to see all of the contaminants removed in your posts. You suggest a clay lube for the clay mitt step, do you have a favorite product in this scenario? Does soapy water work?

3. Polishing is a dream of mine, a skill that I really want to acquire. The paint on my truck is not amazing, but I know a good polish job would absolutely transform the entire vehicle. Is there such thing as an all around polishing machine that is safe for a beginner like me? I've heard that DA polishers are much safer than a straight buffer?

4. I've been admiring the ease of application of the Can Coat in your posts here (you're who introduced me to the product actually) and I love that it is so approachable for me as a beginner, but provides long lasting protection compared to the waxes I've used in the past.

5. I really like the idea of your double foam wash. Do you rinse before the initial foam? I need to invest in the EGO blower that you detailed in your thread here. Hand drying is so slow and often the wind and/or beating sun can beat me to it and I end up with water spots.

Thank you again!!

This is why I prefer forums, you can share knowledge, mostly without the nastiness inherent in other social media platforms. I learn, you learn, we all learn. In other words, my absolute pleasure.

1. With Wet Coat (or Carpro Hydr02), the benefit here is ease of use. Can Coat is absolutely fine to apply to wheels, however, to coat the barrels, you need to remove the wheels from the car. That is not always entirely possible, be that time or facility wise. Wet Coat is water activated/distributed, so you can coat the whole wheel without removing it. Neither Can Coat or Wet Coat is particularly durable on wheels, but Wet Coat is so quick and easy to apply that it doesn't really matter.

That doesn't mean I don't value a proper full-blown ceramic coating on wheels because specific wheel coatings will go the distance and make maintenance so easy. In that case, I HIGHLY recommend Armour Detail Wheel Coating as it has the trifecta often missing from other wheel coatings; slickness, gloss and hydrophobicity.

2. I have a love hate relationship with iron removers. They are extremely effective.................but stink like rotten eggs. Some are heavily scented to mask the odor, but its a losing battle.

For clay, I moved away from clay bars as they are so fiddly to use. While not quite as effective, modern synthetic clay towels, mitts and sponges are just easier to use. For clay lubricant, it can be simple as soapy water, but rinse-less washes like ONR or N-914 are great choices, detail sprays like P&S Paint Gloss are often used, at the moment I'm using Gyeon Clay Lube Concentrate...............because I can. To be honest, soapy water is just fine. Just DONT use any form of tar remover around them.

3. Machine polishing is one of those things that everyone starts out being afraid of, but is something that you quickly become confident in. I also wouldn't call myself an expert in it, but know enough to be dangerous. In any case, its better to start with DA/Dual Action/Random Orbital type of machine, you really have to be doing something stupid to burn paint with one of these.

You would start out with a 5-inch machine (5-inch backing plate with 5.5 or 6-inch pads), then a 3-inch machine if you feel you want to expand, followed by a 1 to 2-inch machine to get into the smaller areas otherwise done by hand. I also think you want the 5-inch machine with a 15mm orbit, some of the cheaper machines only have a 8mm orbit, which is safer but less effective. I could list countless machines, but I would shortlist down to ShineMate, Rupes, Griot's and Milwaukee.............would depend on budget and preference for cord or cordless.

4. The earlier version of Can Coat only lasted 6 months, which was a bit lean when a wax or sealant could achieve that with care. However, the EVO version will do 12+ months with care. I have seen some suggest 8 months on a hammered daily driver with little care. Even so, its very easy to work with. I would say that you still need to be careful with Can Coat, it will high-spot like a true coating if not leveled properly. You also DO NOT spray the product onto the paint, I really have to stress that because it would be an easy mistake to make. There is also no flash time with Can Coat, you apply two sprays to the towel or applicator (which I prefer), wipe the panel (those two sprays will coat a quarter panel, third of the hood ect), then directly follow with your leveling towel.

5. With foaming, it depends on what I'm dealing with.

On my Mustang that never gets truly dirty, I pre-rinse, foam and then contact wash with the foam on the car. In this case, the foam/soap is purely for lubrication.

On my Dad's car, it gets a different process. I foam the soap onto dry paint without a pre-rinse, allow it to soak, then rinse. I will follow with another layer of foam and then the contact wash. The first foaming is doing the heavy lifting, the second foaming is more for lubrication.

The process I outlined in the previous post is another method again, designed for deep cleaning and decontamination.

 

[MadeByMiller]

This is why I prefer forums, you can share knowledge, mostly without the nastiness inherent in other social media platforms. I learn, you learn, we all learn. In other words, my absolute pleasure.

1. With Wet Coat (or Carpro Hydr02), the benefit here is ease of use. Can Coat is absolutely fine to apply to wheels, however, to coat the barrels, you need to remove the wheels from the car. That is not always entirely possible, be that time or facility wise. Wet Coat is water activated/distributed, so you can coat the whole wheel without removing it. Neither Can Coat or Wet Coat is particularly durable on wheels, but Wet Coat is so quick and easy to apply that it doesn't really matter.

That doesn't mean I don't value a proper full-blown ceramic coating on wheels because specific wheel coatings will go the distance and make maintenance so easy. In that case, I HIGHLY recommend Armour Detail Wheel Coating as it has the trifecta often missing from other wheel coatings; slickness, gloss and hydrophobicity.

2. I have a love hate relationship with iron removers. They are extremely effective.................but stink like rotten eggs. Some are heavily scented to mask the odor, but its a losing battle.

For clay, I moved away from clay bars as they are so fiddly to use. While not quite as effective, modern synthetic clay towels, mitts and sponges are just easier to use. For clay lubricant, it can be simple as soapy water, but rinse-less washes like ONR or N-914 are great choices, detail sprays like P&S Paint Gloss are often used, at the moment I'm using Gyeon Clay Lube Concentrate...............because I can. To be honest, soapy water is just fine. Just DONT use any form of tar remover around them.

3. Machine polishing is one of those things that everyone starts out being afraid of, but is something that you quickly become confident in. I also wouldn't call myself an expert in it, but know enough to be dangerous. In any case, its better to start with DA/Dual Action/Random Orbital type of machine, you really have to be doing something stupid to burn paint with one of these.

You would start out with a 5-inch machine (5-inch backing plate with 5.5 or 6-inch pads), then a 3-inch machine if you feel you want to expand, followed by a 1 to 2-inch machine to get into the smaller areas otherwise done by hand. I also think you want the 5-inch machine with a 15mm orbit, some of the cheaper machines only have a 8mm orbit, which is safer but less effective. I could list countless machines, but I would shortlist down to ShineMate, Rupes, Griot's and Milwaukee.............would depend on budget and preference for cord or cordless.

4. The earlier version of Can Coat only lasted 6 months, which was a bit lean when a wax or sealant could achieve that with care. However, the EVO version will do 12+ months with care. I have seen some suggest 8 months on a hammered daily driver with little care. Even so, its very easy to work with. I would say that you still need to be careful with Can Coat, it will high-spot like a true coating if not leveled properly. You also DO NOT spray the product onto the paint, I really have to stress that because it would be an easy mistake to make. There is also no flash time with Can Coat, you apply two sprays to the towel or applicator (which I prefer), wipe the panel (those two sprays will coat a quarter panel, third of the hood ect), then directly follow with your leveling towel.

5. With foaming, it depends on what I'm dealing with.

On my Mustang that never gets truly dirty, I pre-rinse, foam and then contact wash with the foam on the car. In this case, the foam/soap is purely for lubrication.

On my Dad's car, it gets a different process. I foam the soap onto dry paint without a pre-rinse, allow it to soak, then rinse. I will follow with another layer of foam and then the contact wash. The first foaming is doing the heavy lifting, the second foaming is more for lubrication.

The process I outlined in the previous post is another method again, designed for deep cleaning and decontamination.

Thank you again! Your thorough answers have got me excited to actually put this all in action. I'm sure that I will have more questions when I actually get started, but I'll wait to bug you until that time. You probably noticed, but I have some rust issues on the truck that I will be taking care of this year before I try to polish the paint haha. I'm also planning on getting some new wheels and tires for the truck this year, so that may change your coating recommendation when I have brand new wheels to apply a coating to prior to mounting. I assure you I will be coming back to your thread and reading these posts many times - cheers!

 

[D.F.B]

My sister's birthday gift this year, an exterior and interior detail on her nearly one-year-old Volvo XC60 B6.

This vehicle was last washed by me on Christmas Day last year, apart from a quick spray down after a road trip from Melbourne to Adelaid and back. Remarkably, the car was relatively clean, so Carpro Finest Reserve is doing its job.

Now, my sister loves cars, but more so in how they look and feel, not so much what is under the hood. Hence a slew of relatively tame naturally aspirated petrol 4's and sole diesel 4 in her back catalog. This Volvo with its turbocharged 2.0 putting out 220 kW and 420 Nm, combined with some mild hybrid assistance, is easily the most powerful car she has owned.

Her first comment to me after that road trip was, "wow, its great to have some power on the open road for overtaking and general ease of cruising"........................something I have ALWAY advocated for when recommending cars to people. I always get the usual "I'm not a racing driver" type of response. True, but the power is not necessarily there to drive like a maniac, but to make driving so much easier and effortless. This sentiment is more obvious these days now that we are not buying torquey Aussie made vehicles, their place taken by asthmatic diesel pickup trucks and gutless naturally aspirated hatchbacks.

Anyway, back to detailing.

The wheels were the dirtiest part of the car, typical euro-brake dust buildup. From dry, I sprayed them with NV Purge and allowed to react. I then rinsed, following with a contact wash using Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam. The tyres were cleaned with Undressed, the wheels given a quick application of Wet Coat. I also hosed out the engine bay and topped up the windshield bottle with N-914 at 128:1.

I then went in with the same W4 Citrus on the paint for a pre-soak. Rinsed, we then switched to Carpro Reset for the contact wash. After being hit with the EGO blower, the drying aid of choice was again Carpro EliXir, which works brilliantly with the Carpro coating. Door jambs wiped with ECH20, wheels wiped down with NV Boost v1, tyres dressed with Carpro Darkside.

For the interior, it got a vac, the rubber floor mats cleaned with McKee's, the glass done with Invisible Glass, everything else got a wipe down with a damp towel. We (I) also decided to clean the front seats, steering wheel and armrests using ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner, followed by another application of ColourLock Leather Shield. This is what clean, protected leather should look like..................





Back to spec and off home, my job was done.

 

[D.F.B]

Up with the sparrows to get out while it was still cool this morning. It's amazing how much weather effects the enjoyment or otherwise of a job, too hot or too cold/wet and I've had enough before even getting out of the car. So, the getting onto things before the heatwave continued its early Autumn tirade made things more bearable. It's been a week of 38 degree (100 f) and above temps, making up for the somewhat mild summer.

Getting home at about 12pm, it was then into the shade of the garage begin the wheel repairs on the Rover. To recap, I lost drive to the left wheel, which I briefly fixed with replacement of the drive gears and pawls. Shortly after, it again lost drive to the left wheel, which would engage and spin in the air, but not under load, in turn causing it to pull to the left. After pulling the wheels off (again), the left wheel would spin within the rim, but not the right-hand wheel.

Now, these particular wheels are geared to engage with the drive cog. There are two versions of this wheel, one for the ProCut 50 and one for the ProCut 560 that I have, neither are interchangeable. So, a very specific part for a very specific mower. After searching and reaching out to a past contact, it turns out these wheels are still available from Rover, so I ordered four of them! I get it now, these are not parts a retailer will have sitting on a shelf considering how expensive they are and only fitting one specific mower.

In this case, this is the 9-inch rear wheel as used on ProCut 560, Rover part 634-05015 or A10669 -

Rover Genuine 22" Self-Propelled Procut 50/Procut 560 Rear Mower Drive Wheel A10669, 634-05015

Replaces OEM: A10669, 634-05015 Genuine OEM Rover replacement part. Standard Pack: 1 Suits Rover walk-behind mower models - 22” Self Propelled, Procut 50, Procut 560, Procut 50 S/P & Procut 560 S/P models A10669 REAR WHEEL GEAR DRIVE TO SUIT 22" ROVER SELF PROPELLED BACK TO THE ORIGINAL 8044...

powermowers.com.au

Knowing one of the two was broken, I didn't know which. As soon as I opened the box, I knew what the problem was, the new wheels not spinning withing the "tyre" so to speak, meaning the left wheel had failed internally and was free spinning rather than locking and then engaging with the cog.

With the hub cap removed, the press-fit wheel retainer needs to levered off with a screwdriver. The old wheel simply slides off, the axle cleaned and a little marine grade grease applied for good measure, the new wheel is then slid onto the axle and a new retainer hammered onto the axle using an old socket to drive it home square.

Old wheel on the left, new on the right. It's at this point I remembered what had been done last time the wheels had been attended to. These are not the original wheels, the shop replacing both the left and then right on two separate occasions, the left-hand wheel being the oldest, somewhat explaining its failure. It also had less "tread" than the newer right side.





New wheel against the old hub cap does things to my OCD...............



I also decided to order new front wheels. These are relatively easy to find and are considerably cheaper. Again, there are two sizes available, the 7.5-inch for ProCut 50 and the 8-inch ProCut 560. Actually, I was a bit confused what front wheels I needed. Measuring the old ones, it came in at 7.5-inch, which Rover sell under A10621. But the part number on the old wheels was indeed the larger 8-inch A10622. I guess I have lost 0.5-inch of tread in the 10 years I've had this unit.

Rover 8" Wheel 634-05032

Replaces OEM: 634-05032, A10622 A high-quality replacement part designed for top-quality equipment. This OEM part ensures proper fit and performance. Standard Pack: 1 Suits Rover late model domestic lawn mower models - (not limited to) Procut 560, Procut 50, Big Honcho, Supercut, Shredder, Self...

powermowers.com.au

Again, the same process here, removal of the hub cap and the stupid axle retainer, which is part number A03092 for those wondering. Those retainers can be re-used if you are careful during removal, sometimes they snap, sometimes not.

Rover/Masport/Morrison Axle Retaining Clips A03092

Replaces OEM: A03092, A03092K A high-quality replacement part. Made by the most trusted brand, it ensures smooth operation and reliable performance. It is an essential component for maintaining the efficiency of your outdoor equipment. Standard Pack: 10 Suits Rover/Masport/Morrison (not limited...

powermowers.com.au

A quick startup, the wheels both turning in the air was a good first sign. Under load on the pavement and grass, we have two wheel drive again!

I now have two of those rear wheels brand-new, joining the good used one. The failed rear and both fronts went in the recycling bin! This will have the Rover in working order should I need it. I'm just waiting for the that ****** Krohler to blow up and then I can put a real engine on it...........a Briggs 850!

However, with how the Victa Commercial is going, I may have finally found the Rover's replacement! As I had planned, I'm trying to get some content out there on this mower, there just isn't much available, be that images or video. The below is pretty primitive, but it's a start...................

 

[D.F.B]

Wash day for the Ranger and Jaaaaag, and a chance to try a product that had a few had been gently recommending I try.



Now, in the past I have sampled a few of the overcomplicated Chemical Guys range. Nothing really grabbed me, although I did enjoy using VRP dressing. But, this was before I learnt more of the brand and their approach to covering every conceivable gap in the market, sometimes multiple times. As such, trying to make sense of the range is difficult because they have so many overlapping products. I remember going through their product range and counting something like 15 different tyre dressings, and unless you buy and try every single one of those, how do you know which is the best?

Until now, I have ignored the Chemical Guys offerings. Trying Honeydew Snow Foam comes after a few guys swearing by it, guys who have the means to buy and try any product they want on their very nice cars. And yet, they keep coming back to this soap. So, after resisting the urge, I finally caved and ordered a bottle to try.

Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam 1.9 Litre

Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam 1.9 Litre

www.supercheapauto.com.au

Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam Auto Wash 473ml

Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam Auto Wash is a hi-tech shampoo specifically designed to create copious amounts of cleaning suds in a foam cannon or foam gun to lubricate the surface to avoid scratching during washing. Release and gently guide away dirt and grime Provides a scratch free wash...

www.automegastore.com.au

Now, one of the key drawcards to this soap is the low cost, but not in Australia unless on heavy discount. Supercheap don't sell the smaller 473ml bottle, only the 1.9-liter for $59.95 RRP. For context, I can get double that volume in the form of a 4-liter bottle of NV Snow for only $18 more. Roughly speaking, that works out at about $5.15 per 100ml wash for Honeydew, or $1.95 per 100 ml wash for NV Snow.

Now onto the product itself. This is a pH neutral maintenance soap, which is nicely thin in consistency to make dispensing easy. Foaming ability is fantastic, the scent pleasingly fresh but not a standout like GSF, Incredible Suds or Reset. Lubrication is nice, but not to GSF levels.

Compared to some of the garbage within the wider Chemical Guys product range, Honeydew is actually quite nice to use. But its a middle of the road soap for me. In the US, the performance vs price is extremely favorable. But it just doesn't perform like the premium soaps that its competing with on price in Australia.

 

[Wreckster23]

Man what a read. Kinda how I grew up. There was an old old push mower behind our house (parents built it next door to my grandparents) that was older than I was by far, I’d guess 70s. In about 94 (8yo) I had the mind to tinker with it. I knew well enough how to clean the carburetor, spark plug changed out give her the juice. No dice. Had spark, cool. Had gas, no run. Dad helped me out a bit here changing out the cotter pin, boom, it ran. Subsequently, it was my job to use that old tin mower to take care of the back yard for years, till the cotter sheered again some years later. The poor thing was so old and worn, I let it die. I repaired tons of small engines then on, most of them just being carb cleaning, maybe oil or cleaning out debris from the regulators that were air driven or such things - easy work. Even had a mind to start a business doing it, old farmer tried to hire me to handle his fleet of stuff when I was 15. I decided that wasn’t what I wanted to do for a living. I have the hold back of also thinking my work is never good enough to be professional quality, just adequately good as a typical homeowner. Quite possibly my thoughts on myself are not true, but it’s always stopped me from chasing those things. I’ve always been into cars, near started detailing at one point, but I never had the time to bring that to fruition. I’m so out of the loop these days that all these new chemicals you keep talking about are foreign to me, I’m still doing the 2 bucket method, which as you know means there is little choice but to polish often.
Fast forward to now, I have a month old Subaru forester wilderness. I absolutely adore the thing, which is really surprising being that I’ve had a lot of cars, a good deal of them much quicker than this. I’ve gotten old enough to not need to race around, I rather have capabilities, which this thing has loads of. Problem is, like any new vehicle that gets “prepped”, the team in the shop did a bang up job of introducing swirls into the paint. They even had a run down the windshield from the “ceramic” whatever it is they used that would be a giant streak when it rains, car is not even 2 months old.
I’ve gone over the car gently removing the excess product they left behind and applied a quick coat of some gentler carniba wax to keep it safe until I decide what to do with it. I’m leaning towards having a pro polish and ceramic coat it, might save this really soft clear coat for a bit, might just be a lost cause. Definitely going to switch to a foam cannon and likely some better mitts and towels to limit damage I might cause. I might even try that honeydew stuff given the excellent price state side. One brand I have enjoyed testing as they’ve developed is exoforma. They had one of the better Si02 sprays when the market was new. One thing in particular that I loved was the permashine tire coating. Goes on a bit like a shellac, and was the only product I’ve used that would give any semblance of a lasting shine on the Yokohama advan specs I had on my Passat. I haven’t tried it yet on the Subaru, it’s been a messy spring.

PermaShine Tire Coating - 1.3

TRY IT. RISK FREE. MONEY BACK GUARANTEE If you're not COMPLETELY satisfied with your order, we will refund you no questions asked. WORRY FREE RETURNS Our fast return process will allow you to return the product at no cost to you. OUR GUARANTEE Your satisfaction is 100% GUARANTEED on all orders...

exoforma.com

Long worded hello, though I am greatly enjoying your content. I’ll sit back and read along.

 

[D.F.B]

Man what a read. Kinda how I grew up. There was an old old push mower behind our house (parents built it next door to my grandparents) that was older than I was by far, I’d guess 70s. In about 94 (8yo) I had the mind to tinker with it. I knew well enough how to clean the carburetor, spark plug changed out give her the juice. No dice. Had spark, cool. Had gas, no run. Dad helped me out a bit here changing out the cotter pin, boom, it ran. Subsequently, it was my job to use that old tin mower to take care of the back yard for years, till the cotter sheered again some years later. The poor thing was so old and worn, I let it die. I repaired tons of small engines then on, most of them just being carb cleaning, maybe oil or cleaning out debris from the regulators that were air driven or such things - easy work. Even had a mind to start a business doing it, old farmer tried to hire me to handle his fleet of stuff when I was 15. I decided that wasn’t what I wanted to do for a living. I have the hold back of also thinking my work is never good enough to be professional quality, just adequately good as a typical homeowner. Quite possibly my thoughts on myself are not true, but it’s always stopped me from chasing those things. I’ve always been into cars, near started detailing at one point, but I never had the time to bring that to fruition.

Long worded hello, though I am greatly enjoying your content. I’ll sit back and read along.

Story of my life.

 

[JSGAuto]

Thank you for posting the very detailed....detailing!

I am learning about this stuff and trying to start detailing my own toys. I am currently using the Griots products. It's overwhelming of what is out there!

 

[D.F.B]

Thank you for posting the very detailed....detailing!

I am learning about this stuff and trying to start detailing my own toys. I am currently using the Griots products. It's overwhelming of what is out there!

That's one brand I wish we could get in Australia. Only one online retailer sells Griot's, but one four product and none of them I would call essentials. Amazon discourages selling Griot's to Australian consumers via extortionate pricing on the products and shipping.

Don't hesitate to reach out for advice, more than happy to help. I wish I had the sort of content and knowledge sharing we have at our fingertips these days compared to when I got started. I'm 37 and basically self-taught over more than 20 years, the majority of that gained in the last 5 to 8 years due to the explosion of online video content and the knowledge sharing coming from forums. When I started, the internet was not mainstream, nor was there much in printed format.

 

[Wreckster23]

That has been my thought these last few months. There is such a wealth of information readily available. The issue I have with it, there's too much info. Even detailing as an example. 20 years ago, there were a handful of products that were known to work and that was that. Now, there are 20 different companies that all hold muster and maybe have a slight variance. It's hard to figure out which products are actually good and which are not worth the cost. Griots I see mentioned a lot, chemical guys have a ton of stuff too. I've always been wary of both as they seem like big name brands throwing a lot of stuff out at near any store around here. Used to be, you stayed away from those big catch all brands (armor all, turtle wax).

speaking of which. Let me pick your brain a sec. I've religiously used rain-x on everything for years, it just doesn't last. What would you use as a replacement for every day drivers?

 

[D.F.B]

The issue I have with it, there's too much info. Even detailing as an example. 20 years ago, there were a handful of products that were known to work and that was that. Now, there are 20 different companies that all hold muster and maybe have a slight variance. It's hard to figure out which products are actually good and which are not worth the cost. Griots I see mentioned a lot, chemical guys have a ton of stuff too. I've always been wary of both as they seem like big name brands throwing a lot of stuff out at near any store around here. Used to be, you stayed away from those big catch all brands (armor all, turtle wax).

And this is one of the reasons I'm not welded to a singular brand, its impossible for a single brand to produce THE best product in each detailing category.

And yes, I typically avoid the usual "big brands", mainly because the products are so watered down in ability to cater to all the idiots of the world and mitigate a lawsuit. The end result is a line of mediocre products that don't work like they should.

Naturally, there are some exclusions, very specific products that I have singled out for a particular role or need, products that maybe some of the high-end brands don't offer. Glass cleaner for example, I've tried a number of them from the posh brands, only for cheap and cheerful Stoner's Invisible Glass to come out the winner.

speaking of which. Let me pick your brain a sec. I've religiously used rain-x on everything for years, it just doesn't last. What would you use as a replacement for every day drivers?

I think the success or otherwise with glass sealants is the preparation put into the surface prior to application. I have been using Gyeon Quick View for a few years now and really like it.

GYEON | Q2 Quickview

EASY TO APPLY RAIN REPELLENT COATING Q² QuickView is designed as an easy to use rain repellent that will last at least 6 months. Its application is a matter of seconds thanks to the unique bottle design and felt applicator. GREAT VISIBILITY The ultra-slick coat of Q² QuickView ensures...

www.carsupplieswarehouse.com

I had someone tell me its just fancy Rain-X, and they are probably right. What I like about it is the bottles integrated felt applicator, which makes application quick and easy. I have heard mixed results regarding longevity, some say its gone pretty quick, especially on the windshield. But on my cars, its done really well, although I will say that I tend to manage the wipers and certainly avoid dry wiping.







I mentioned prep prior to application. I always at least clay the glass beforehand, followed by a prep spray like Gyeon Prep, Carpro Eraser or 50/50 IPA and distilled water. You want that glass squeeky clean!





In some cases, I will also polish the glass, mainly to deep clean, followed by that prep spay. P&S Clarity Cream on a blue Lake Country cutting pad is ideal for this job, but any heavy cut compound will do the job.

P&S | Clarity Creme Glass Polish

One of the biggest challenges for detailers is the ability to create crystal clear glass. Over time exterior glass accumulates water spots, mineral deposits, calcium build up, wiper blade residue, etc. and glass cleaner will no longer do the trick. Glass needs to be polished back to its original...

www.carsupplieswarehouse.com

LAKE COUNTRY | SDO Blue Heavy Polishing Pad

Standard Duty Orbital (SDO) pads have been designed to offer the same great engineered foams as the HDO® line without the dual layer construction and are suitable for all DA polishers with a center ventilated backing plate. The center hole provides a tunnel to release and dissipate heat from the...

www.carsupplieswarehouse.com

You would otherwise be looking at a specific glass ceramic coating. These need more technique to apply, so if you haven't used ceramic coatings before, perhaps stick with Quick View.

 

[D.F.B]

I work next door to one of the best motoring museums in the country, so there is always something going on out in the carpark at work. Sometimes it's cars and coffee, club runs, cruise nights................lots of tasty metal passes by my "office". Sometimes it's the usual 70's Aussie muscle cars, maybe a tasty Aston Martin V8 Vantage, right through the downright oddball cars from the past, think Model T Ford's or Studebakers.

Today was bit different, and a first for the complex. I rocked up to a filling carpark, with the museum's own car park cordoned off. Settling into work for the morning, the scream of engines and tyres woke me from my morning haze.

Turns out they were hosting a gymkhana for the morning. The first car sound was obvious, a 90's WRX sedan, you can't mistake that throbby growl. A gorgeous 1965 Mustang in red sounded as good as you would expect. A host of late model turbo 6 BMW M3's and M2's, the distinctive howl and exhaust pop again unmistakable. Less pleasing, but no less interesting, the buzz-saw like turbo V8 BMW, I hate those engines.

But the most distinctive? The most spin chilling and easily the loudest of all the cars thrashing their way around the makeshift course? A sound that I have burned into my brain, a sound like no other car past or present. That sound echoing across the lake and into my ears being that of a naturally aspirated flat 6 revving to 9000 rpm, a Porsche 911 GT3. This is the first time I have heard one in person, and it's as ****** good in person as the countless Youtube clips I have listened to online. The sound is so crisp, so pure, the way it screams and yet howls at the same time. There is none of the muffler theatrics like the BMW's, or the bassy fluff that the Subaru or V8 Mustang had. I probably like V8's more than any other engine layout, but there is something truly special about a highly tuned 6-cylinder, especially of the inline and flat variety.

Obviously not from today, but I just had to indulge that sound again.............

Apart from the 65 Mustang, all of these were by ear, I knew each and every sound without even poking my head out the window to look, the GT3 the most obvious.

 

[Tactile]

Something to aspire to?

 

[D.F.B]

Something to aspire to?

Unless I start trafficking illegal goods, probably not in my lifetime. But dreaming is cheap.

I was never a Porsche guy until they went nuts with the GT3 engines. I think Aussies and American's have that V8 mentality bred into us, so naturally that was always my aspiration. But like most Aussies of my generation, my first car had an inline 6, so I've also always had a thing for hot 6's. For me, BMW made the best of them. My big SOHC 4.0 inline 6 Falcon with its asthmatic top end and wheezy induction note was nothing to get excited about.

This was at a time when BMW were offering such wonders as the E46 M3 and M3 CSL with that glorious 3.2 S54. No engine sounded like that, all barking induction note and raspiness from the exhaust. I remember at the time being at a TARGA Rally with a mate, my excitement for a the competing E46 M3 CSL and how it sounded was met with disapproval, apparently it sounded like sh.t to him. And sure, I could see where he was coming from, the thin and tinny sounding exhaust note was not its best quality. But that induction note, the way it barked as it sucked air into that carbon intake still makes me smile ear to ear.

This all to brief video shows off both intake and exhaust as it reverberates from the trees....................

I love this channel, mainly because they make videos purely for your ears delight.

But it was this ancient head to head from 5th Gear back in the day, pitting M3 against CSL. There are clips in that video that are burned into my brain, the delicious bark on the rev match downshift from the CSL. I've watched this clip billions of times, and it never gets old. And oh how I wished I could drive like Tiff Needel.

What's sadder than me not being able to have a E46 M3 CSL is the fact that BMW don't make M-cars like this anymore, the current crop of M3's and the like are imposters.

To me, very few if any 6-cylinder engines grab me more than those S54 BMW's. And so, we arrive at those glorious 3.8 and 4.0 Porche flat-6's. As the rest of the car industry went for downsized engines with turbo's, hell even Porche did the same elsewhere in their range, the GT3 and GT4 models have become an outlier. I can appreciate the sheer power and endless torque modern turbo engines have, but I find them boring in both sound and the feel of the delivery. Very few turbo engines have that crescendo of a naturally aspirated engine as it sweeps through the rev range. And its that aspect why I love how Ford have kept the V8 Mustang naturally aspirated, sure it's a bit soft on low end torque, but that just an invitation to rev is harder.

While the 911 GT3 is the accomplished older brother, I actually prefer the sound of the lippy younger brother, the GT4 RS. Those last 1000 rpm and that nasty metallic rasp is so unique.

So does that mean at GT4 RS would be the aspiration then? No, those wings and aero stuff do nothing for me. Perhaps the Spider version, maybe. But for some reason, I love the somewhat restrained GT3 Touring, without the wings and plastic add on's. And yes, I have spec'd this car a few times online. It would be either Guards Red or British Racing Green, with the Bordeaux Red/Black interior, carbon ceramic brakes, PDK.











Again, dreams are free.

 

[Tactile]

Yep, normally aspirated for me too...

 

[D.F.B]

Feeling pretty exhausted after a busy week, it was a day for tinkering.

The Ranger was covered in road grime after rain last week, but I just didn't want to get everything out for a full bucket wash. Instead, I foamed the car with Gtechniq W4 and allowed it soak while I prepped for a rinse-less wash.





After a thorough rinse, I moved into the garage and used DIY Rinse-less Wash to finish off. The car was then dried with the assistance DIY Ceramic Gloss. This is a great combo, not as slick and glossy as P&S Absolute/Bead Maker, but satisfying nonetheless.

I then wiped down the tray using a beater towel soaked with the rinse-less solution, the wheels and door jambs wiped down with ECH20. The interior was wiped with DIY Interior Clean and Protect, windows with Invisible Glass. Tyres dressed with OG Tire Dressing, my current favorite.

I also didn't have the energy to address the old man's filthy Wildtrak, which was covered in dust, road grime and bugs from driving all over Victoria in the last two weeks. The perfect candidate to further experiment with Bilt Hamber Touchless.

BILT HAMBER TOUCH-LESS 5 LITER SNOW FOAM PRE WASH TOUCH LESS - 5L

Bilt Hamber Laboratories premium car care products from THE UK TOUCH-LESS is our new eco-friendly pressure-washer, pre-clean, snow foam which can be applied by pump spray, foam cannon or foam gun. Applied at typically a 4% PIR this bio-degradable sugar-based product provides truly exceptional...

www.detailstore.com.au

Touch-Less - Bilt Hamber

sugar-based snow-foam pre-wash

bilthamber.com

I've had a rocky start with Touchless, to the point where I've been hesitant to use it. My initial usages were not successful, which was a source of frustration. I then realized the 10 LPM (2.65 GPM) flow rate of my pressure washer was overdiluting the chemical. I have since had better results from using it neat in the foam cannon bottle, which dilutes just enough without compromising it's "touchless" ability.



In this case, it was rather remarkable how effective Touchless was in removing the majority of **** from the car. Yes, it would've benefited from a follow up contact wash, but that wasn't the aim today. I simply wanted to see what I would get from a simple foam, rinse and blow dry. The result buys the car another week before getting a more thorough clean.

Speaking of foam cannons, I am so far liking these newly updated MTM PF22.2's. The repurposed Kwazar weighted filter is also working very well, helping the cannon to continue drawing soap no matter the fluid level or bottle angle.



Unrelated to detailing, I also had to replace one of the plastic hinges on the garage door. These things have a habit of snapping and causing noisy operation. Each hinge is numbered, so you need to have the correspondingly numbered hinge. I had one in stock, but not the number 2 I needed. So, I ordered one of each number to have in stock. Replaced, its working much nicer now.

https://wholesalegaragedoors.com.au/product/steel-line-nylon-hinge-2-for-garage-door/

I also got onto greasing the gearboxes on my line and hedge trimmers. For some reason, while I seem to remember to change the oil and clean out the air filters on my lawn mowers, I always forget to re-grease these things. The handy thing with the Stihl grease is that the tube will screw into the filler plug thread, allowing you to inject grease into the gearbox without making a mess.

(Not my image/video)

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/ap/heavy-duty-gear-lubricant-1068

 

[D.F.B]

Picked up a quick release chuck for my Milwaukee inflator. These just screw onto the OEM threaded chuck and prevent losing too much air when removing from the valve stem.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09TKMPX3K?tag=atomicindus08-20

Much better now.......................

 

[Tactile]

Just wondering if you have any Milwaukee Packout cases to store your gear? I have a foam insert (1 from a 2-pack) that I'll never use. It's yours if you want it.

 

[D.F.B]

Just wondering if you have any Milwaukee Packout cases to store your gear? I have a foam insert (1 from a 2-pack) that I'll never use. It's yours if you want it.

I love the thought that has gone into the Packout system, very clever.

At the moment, my Milwaukee tools are stored in one of my cabinets, but I would like to better organize them.

The only Packout I have is the 3-drawer unit which I'm using as the "spare parts department" for my garden tools. I have this in one of my cabinets also. I could have done this a number of ways, but I liked how well made that unit is with the proper drawer slides and the ability to customize the layout. And if I run out of room, which I am, I can add another and have it all click together.









Old take-off parts, hoses ect.



Spark plugs, chains, chassis parts, carb parts ect.



Blades, belts and air filters.

 

[D.F.B]

At work, we sell wall art on consignment by a local artist, basically his retirement hobby. He uses reclaimed timber and metal to create quite unique pieces, most of them being of birds, native animals, farm scenery ect. His latest creation instantly caught my eye, apparently my red Mustang caught his too........................



He is also quite clever in some on the fine details, think opening doors or spinning windmills. In this case, the rear-view mirrors are actually reflective. While the frontal proportion is not quite right but check out the rear profile in how it perfectly depicts the S550. I'm told it took 5 coats of red to be as shiny as my real Mustang.

 

[JSGAuto]

Well, I paid for a pro to detail my car and I was disappointed. I had it in their shop to get tint done, which they did do OK. Not perfect, but better than I could do. So I figured I have them detail it too. The only thing they did better than me on was the glass. So I need to research that a bit more. All I have used was a bottle of windex.

They also broke my door. I get it, it happens. But the way he handled that was more of the issue. Lack of customer service.

All well, back to studying @D.F.B posts abd doing this myself.

Jim

 

[D.F.B]

Autumn, my favorite season. Sunny days, not too hot, not too cold..............perfect for pottering about. And so, having the last two days off has been a fantastic recharge.

Yesterday, I serviced a work colleague's lawn mower. She pays to cover the parts and I throw in the labor for free. Nothing overly complicated, it's only a few years old, but I changed out the oil for fresh Penrite 10W-30, a new air filter and spark plug. I then gave the unit a clean with Shine Supply Wise Guy, applied Hydr02 to the deck and a little P&S Shape Up dressing for the plastics. It was then returned, ready for work again.

Interesting to note the design of the airbox on these newer Brigg's engines lets in a lot of dust and debris. Where the oil-soaked foam filters on the old side-valve engines didn't allow any foreign material to enter the filter case, the new OHV engines have two entry points for grass and dust to enter the housing. This makes it vital to check, clean or replace the paper cartridge and foam pre-filters often.

After that and running around town for this and that, I zoned out for a few hours and settled into my happy place by washing the Mustang. I typically use soap for the wheels, but I decided to use Brake Buster from my foam cannon to get a deeper clean than usual.

Soap of choice was Koch Chemie GSF, followed by a blow down with the EGO and OG Drying Aid. With the cooler weather, I decided to tackle the inside of the rear windshield by folding myself into the back seat, using the Stoner Reach & Clean Tool to get right down to the base of the screen. The wheels got a wipe down with NV Boost v1 and the tyres re-coated with OG Tire Dressing.





Today, I made sure I had nowhere to go other than out into the garage. Again, it was on with the headphones to help me zone out, the delightful Table Manners podcast playing in my ear. After running them through the washing machine yesterday, the first job today was to refit the Ranger's waterproof seat covers. Actually, while they were out of the car, I cleaned under the seats and the headboard with Griot's Interior Cleaner, the rest of the interior with InnerQD.

For the exterior, again I used foamed Brake Buster for the wheels, then P&S Radiance for the wash. Drying Aid an old favorite, Meguiar's Last Touch, then the tires got another coat of OG TD and the wheels wiped over with Boost v1.



While it wasn't all that bad, it was then the Jaguar's turn. Foamed Brake Buster again for the wheels and tyres, soap of choice being Shine Supply Shift, and OG Drying getting another run. The wheels this time wiped with ECH20, tyres dressed with Opti-coat Tire Gel.



Finishing up the bliss, I mixed up a fresh batch of ECH20 at 15:1 and topped off various spray bottles, something I find very therapeutic for some reason.

Back to work tomorrow........................

 

[ajohno]

Just catching up on your thread.

Hopefully you get your new Mustang.

 

[D.F.B]

Meguiar's Hyper Wash...................



The above is me caving into peer pressure after numerous Autogeek remembers were suggesting I take a look at Hyper Wash. I have resisted in the past due to the RRP it sells for in Australia and the ultra-thick consistency. This product is from the Pro Detailer line and features an ultra-concentrated 400:1 dilution ratio.

I was told Hyper Wash is not pH neutral, being slightly elevated to provide superior cleaning in commercial applications. As a regular maintenance wash on a ceramic coating, it apparently prevents it from "clogging" and therefore not needing periodic high pH decon washes. However, my pH meter measured 7.68 in concentrate form, and 7.89 diluted. This is only ever so slightly above pH neutral, and actually lower when compared to NV Snow with a claimed pH of 7.0 and a measured value of 9.7.





First impressions, the consistency is not as thick as expected, the scent muted but pleasant.

I'm quite critical of Meguiar's approach to Australia. In the USA, the brand is all about value for money without compromising quality. Thing is, that doesn't translate in Australia...............unless on heavy discount. As such, I'm going to pick a Carpro or P&S product over a Meguiar's at full RRP.

In the case of Hyper Wash, a gallon (the only size) comes in at $94.99 RRP. The above bottle I got on eBay for $66 with free shipping. So why isn't it always at $66? At $95, I would rather only pay $75 for the excellent NV Snow.

 

[D.F.B]

Two of my favorite things today, lawn mowers and washing cars! Let's start with the mowers.

About a month ago, I lost drive on the Mulchmaster. Thankfully, it failed at home and after finishing my mowing run for the day. What I thought would be a simple belt change turned out to be more involved. In fact, the belt itself still had a few threads intact, but one of the tensioner pullies had slipped off the bearing.............







From what I have since learned, once the bearings fail on these, they heat up the plastic pully and melt them free.

After a few minutes searching the PDF parts manual, which I have saved for all of my machines now, I found that Victa only sells the complete tensioner assembly and not the induvial pullies. In any case, these are not all that expensive, but they are special order and why it's taken me a month to get around to fixing this issue.

Victa: CH86896AW

https://bwmachinery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/VICTA-Mulchmaster-560-Mower-2691588-Operator-Manual.pdf

Victa Genuine Tensioner Mount Pack CH86896AW [BRICH86896AW] - $47.55 : Outdoorking

Outdoorking Victa Genuine Tensioner Mount Pack CH86896AW [BRICH86896AW] - OEM Number Outdoorking Product Description © Model CH86896AW Genuine Victa Tensioner Mount Pack MSP562 - Mulchmaster 560, 2 stroke-->Mulchmaster 560 Variable Speed Group MSP564 - Mulchmaster 560, 4 stroke...

www.outdoorking.com.au

Replacement of the belt and tensioner is a bit of a fiddle, but not hard. First, remove the blade carrier from the driveshaft to give access later on. Then, release the speed control cable by loosening the double nuts that hold it to the assembly, then unhook the cable from the pivoting tensioner arm. Next, remove the nyloc nut from the second pully, this bold also holds the assembly in place and passes through the chassis, you will need two 13mm ring spanners.



New unit ready for install following the above in reverse.



The Mulchmaster was the last machine I entrusted to the "care" a local repair shop. I had dropped it in for a belt replacement, a month and $220 later, the machine was handed back on a Saturday morning. On the first job, the thing was driving way too slowly, even in top gear. Thinking back, I am certain they didn't even do a test run before signing off on the job, because if they had, they would have known something wasn't right. By this time, it was 1pm on a Saturday and the shop closed. Annoyed, I removed the belt shroud to discover they had put the belt on incorrectly. The short period of running had also cut the belt.





I then spent a month arguing with the arrogant shop owner, who was insistent I bring the machine back, which wasn't going to happen. My argument being they charged me for a repair that I ended up having to do myself to get it running and earning money again, and that the belt was compromised. In the end, we agreed for them to simply cover the cost of a new belt and call it a day. After waiting for weeks to be issued a refund, I sent an email to Victa head office that a "certified dealer" was doing the brand a disservice. I got no response from either Victa or the dealer, but the money was in my account 24 hours later.

I say all of the above because I already had a belt in stock, and that I'm shocked that the compromised belt lasted 14 months. Even so, I ordered another belt to keep in stock.

Victa - CH85666A

Victa Genuine Mulchmaster 560 Drive Belt CH85666A [BRICH85666A] - $57.58 : Outdoorking

Outdoorking Victa Genuine Mulchmaster 560 Drive Belt CH85666A [BRICH85666A] - Outdoorking Product Description ©: Genuine Victa Drive BeltFits Models:MSP562 - Mulchmaster 560, 4 stroke B&S-->Mulchmaster 560 Variable Speed GroupMSP564 - Mulchmaster 560, 4 stroke B&S-->Mulchmaster 560 Variable...

www.outdoorking.com.au

To fit the belt takes a bit of finagling. First, feed the belt from the top of the deck, pulling through to hook over the blade boss and then onto the engine pully. You then snake the belt around the pivot arm pully and up to the gear box pully. Get the belt started on the gearbox pully, then rotate till it walks into place.





Next, you need to reset the speed control. First, move the lever to the fastest position, pull back on the cable to tension the pivot arm, then adjust and tighten the double nuts to lock everything down. A quick test run, then another readjustment of the cable, the belt cover can be reinstalled.

I ended up giving the machine a test run on the neighbors lawn, and I'm pleased to report the Mulchmaster is now fixed and running well.

 

[D.F.B]

Last week, not having time to attend to the dirty, bug ridden Wildtrak, I decided to see what Bilt Hamber Touchless would do in a simply foam-rinse-blow dry type of treatment. Touchless got the car 90 percent clean, stripping off the grime in an effortless way. That meant today's wash would be far easier.

As always, the wheels and tyres were first. I used foamed Brake Buster for the wheels, the tyres scrubbed with P&S Undressed, followed by another application of Hydr02 on the wheels.

I then moved onto the engine bay, rinsing it down before applying APC and scrubbing with the Detail Factory Fender Brush and an EZ-Detail brush. Rinsed again, I applied Hyper Dressing and closed the hood.



Even though the car was still pretty clean after last weeks Touchless, I still used a pre-treat foaming, in this case Gyeon Foam. It was then onto a new soap......................



After having a few people suggest I try it, Hyper Wash is a highly concentrated soap aimed at pro detailers. I had previously dismissed Hyper Wash because of the high recommended retail price and ultra-thick consistency. Combined with the new wide mouth MTM foam cannon bottle and the thinner than expected consistency, dispensing the soap was easier than I had anticipated.

Hyper Wash produces thick, shaving cream-like foam that, unlike the Gyeon Foam used earlier, does thin down a little as it dwells. The scent is quite muted but pleasant, again I was expecting it to smell like some of Meguiar's older legacy products. Slickness is good but not at Reset or GSF levels, and it's relatively free rinsing. Cleaning power is impressive though, which you would expect from a product rated at pH 9.0.







I have to say, Hyper Wash is way better than I had been expected. Just make sure to buy it when its on sale, at the full $95 AUD, there is better value to be had elsewhere. But on sale at $66 AUD, Hyper Wash is well worth looking at.

After the wash, I used NV Boost v2 for the drying aid and P&S Epic for the door jambs. I cleaned the interior with P&S Xpress, followed by P&S True Vue for the glass. The leather was looking quite grotty, so I cleaned with KCx Pol Star and applied Geist Leather Conditioner. The Floor mats were scrubbed with Mckee's FMCLR and dressed with P&S Swift.



I then wiped the wheels over with Boost v2 and dressed the tyres with Shine Supply Decked Out.

 

[D.F.B]

My first attempt at a Terrarium.....................

 

[D.F.B]

How to not detail your car.................

 

[68400BIRD]

I hope that was a joke.

 

[D.F.B]

I hope that was a joke.

Pretty sure it was, hopefully no one would be that dim.

 

[D.F.B]

Ummmmm...................

Wouldn't expect any less from Bowden's.

 

[Tactile]

The actor in that vid deserves some sort of award...

 

[D.F.B]

The actor in that vid deserves some sort of award...

That's Dan Bowden, one of the owners of the company.