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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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D.F.B

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Contrary to Breaks & Scrapem’s advice, you actually DO need to change the oil!

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Some time ago, Briggs & Stratton determined that consumers don’t like changing the oil on their gas-powered lawn equipment. In fact, I would be willing to bet that 90% of gas-powered lawn mowers never get an oil change in their life. According to Briggs and Stratton, because of the advancements in oil technology and engine design, the engines run cooler and negate the need for regular oil changes. Those changes include improved air filters and oil filler seals, which limit the chance of debris entering the oil system. The subsequent tag line being “No Oil Change Required, Just Check and Add”.


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Briggs & Stratton even make note of the environmental savings made by not generating waste oil. I guess they have a point, but if the engine blows up because of degraded or a lack of oil, then I can guarantee Briggs’s would happily sell you another engine that took a lot of energy and natural resources to manufacture. Go figure.

Needless to say, if you want the engine on your lawn mower to go the distance, please change the oil!

When I first took delivery of the Victa Commercial 21-inch, I filled the engine with the recommended SAE-30 mineral oil.

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Having outlined the "No Oil Change Required" above, that actually doesn’t apply to the 850-series engine. I would suspect that relates to these engines being primarily for commercial users, meaning they are being used far beyond the average domestic lawn mower engine. As such, Briggs recommend the first oil change on the 850-series be at 5 hours of use, then every 50 hours or annually going forward. The oil filter replacement is also at 50 hours.

After the first oil change at 5 hours, I go a bit more conservative in doing oil changes at 25 instead of 50 hours. I would normally switch to 10w-30 semi-synthetic at the first change, but I've decided to run SAE-30 mineral for another set.

For oil filters, I do them every second oil change for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the filters are $20 each, which is quite expensive for such a small filter. Secondly, I just don't see the need considering the frequency of oil changes.

Engine Oil Capacity – 540 to 590 ml (wet fill)
Oil Filter P/N - 795 990 https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/briggs-stratton-oil-filter-795990/

The first step in changing the oil on a small engine is to warm it up beforehand, thus allowing the oil to drain more effectively. While the engine is warming up, I get my oil pan ready and measure out the replacement oil.

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These engines can be drained from above or below, but I have always drained them from the dipstick tube to avoid taking off the blade carrier. Make sure to clean around the dipstick tube beforehand, which you should be doing anyway when checking oil levels. All waste oil is put in an empty bottle and disposed of at the council collection point.

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Once drained, the mower is flipped back up and the new oil added, reserving about 100ml. I then check the dipstick, adding the final 100ml in steps to the correct level is achieved. If the oil filter is changed, make sure to check the oil after a quick test run and add more oil if needed.

As a way of keeping track, I put the date on the oil filter to indicate when the last oil change was.

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I actually rinsed the mower down prior to the oil change, the ceramic coating easily shed the dust debris that was clinging to the deck. See, there was method in my madness! ;)

I’m loving this mower by the way……………..and a lot of that is the 850-series engine.

1 - It’s easier to pull over the Krohler or Honda. The Krohler feels very heavy, like it doesn’t have a compression release. The Honda’s rope is too short, meaning it doesn’t permit a zone starter and it reaches the end of the travel on each tug.

2 - It can power through thick Kikuyu that has the Honda or Krohler bogging down.

3 - The quick release air filter cover allows for more convenient filter cleaning. I like to tap the filter out after a big day, something that is discouraged on the Honda and Krohler arrangements.

4 - Even though I have it revving harder than standard, the 850 is quieter than the Krohler and Honda, in particular producing less high frequency muffler noise across the rev range. The Honda does idle quieter, but only because of a slower idle speed. This will sound deranged, but I actually love how this engine responds to a rapid full throttle action, it has such a rorty sound to it.

The 850's only major failing is its thirst for fuel, exaggerated by the extra revs I have it at, but in every other way it’s the perfect modern lawn mower engine.
 
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ajohno

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I change the oil every August on my mowers. I have a Briggs and Stratton oil removal kit which I have been using for years.
 
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I change the oil every August on my mowers. I have a Briggs and Stratton oil removal kit which I have been using for years.
I have the Victa branded version, it works well, although not as thorough at getting the last dregs out of the sump. What oil have you been using?
 

ajohno

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I have the Victa branded version, it works well, although not as thorough at getting the last dregs out of the sump. What oil have you been using?
I use Honda premium engine oil 10W-30. All my mowers are Honda or have Honda motors on them including my pressure washer.
 
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Got my first chance to use the M18 Surge today, making treated pine backing boards for Elkhorn and Staghorn ferns. Wow, this thing is so smooth, easily the best impact driver I have used to date. Granted, treated pine is not a great challenge, but I love how you can creep up on the fastener rather that pounding it into submission.

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Kranzle Check Valve Repair / Service

After nearly four years of flawless hard work, my German tank failed me last week. I bought this Kranzle K1152 TST (1122 TST in the US) in mid-2020, a sight unseen purchase that was a go-big-or-go-home type of deal. Apart from the stout water flow, low noise and high-quality construction, the main benefit of a Kranzle is the ability to service and repair these machines as needed. The pumps are fully serviceable or completely replaceable, a contrast to the throw away type of deal with cheaper pressure washers. The hoses, fittings, pressure gauges and oil are all replaceable as needed, even the electrical circuitry.

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After sitting for more than 6 months unused, I took the Kranzle to work on Wednesday to wash the two delivery vans. I connected the hose and turned on the tap to purge the lines, but nothing came out. Apart from a tiny trickle, water was not flowing through the pump. I checked the inlet screen and the nozzles for blockages, but all was good on that front. I later discovered the glycerin filled pressure gauge was leaking fluid. I ended up having to wash the vans with a garden hose, further diagnosis would have to wait.

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A quick Google and further discussion with PowerBlast, the Australia service and parts agent for Kranzle, the issue would be a stuck check valve, of which there are seven on the AZ pump. The first 6 valves are accessed by a brass plug, the exception being the valve below the pressure gauge, which needs to be removed to gain access.

Upper outlet valves -

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Lower inlet valves -

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The seventh valve is the final release valve and is accessed behind the larger cap highlighted below. This is not the same arrangement as the red plastic check valves in that the cap acts against a spring and ball bearing. The ball bearing can weld to the seat and cause a blockage. I actually removed this valve first but found everything to fine, the ball bearing free and clean.

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It’s recommended to start by removing the three top (outlet) valves, of those the central pressure gauge and valve cap should be first to allow clear access to the outer two valves. The three lower (inlet) valves are then removed, starting with the two outer caps to allow access to the central one. Most will remove the hose reel for better access, but it can be done with it in place like I did here.

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The first three outlet valve came out free and easy, the springs moving within the housing just fine. However, all three lower valves came out with the spring frozen to the seat. In this case, I mostly likely didn't purge water from the pump after use. As it sat for so long, the minerals in the water calcified around the spring and freeze it in place.

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According to PowerBlast, the valves often free up after being removed, which was the case here. Using a pick, gentle pressure freed the spring from the seat, working it several times to dislodge any build up. I then followed by sprayed the valves with IPA and wiped them clean. I also cleaned each valve cap, including a light go over the threads with a wire brush to remove any thread locker used during manufacture. There are also o-rings at the base of each check valve channel, but I didn't want to mess with those.

To reinstall the valves, simply slide the valve back into the channel and replace the cap. Start with the central top valve and cap, then the two outers. You can then re-install the pressure gauge. The lower valves, again start with the central, followed by the outers. Despite what is shown in some of the below videos, I do not recommend using a power tool on these brass pumps, just run them down by hand until you feel resistance, then nip them up with a socket or wrench. It would be all too each to destroy one of these $1000+ pump housings by smashing a cap home with an impact gun.

Once I had the pump back together, I went out and connected the water, purged the lines and then fired the unit up. Success! 🥳


You will notice that the pressure gauge is not working, which I had expected. The bubble in the gauge is normal by the way. I have ordered a replacement gauge, along with a check valve kit which includes 6 new valves and 12 new o-rings to have in stock.

Check Valve Kit - 41.648

Pressure Gauge - 15039

Through all of this, I discovered that PowerBlast have a distributor local to me. While they don't stock spares, they can get them in for me.

Normally, something like this would have freaked me out. In fact, Detailing Shed suggested I just send it to PowerBlast. If it was the plungers, from what I have seen they can be tricky to seat properly. But the check valves were a piece of cake. As such, I'm so glad I did this myself and learnt more about these awesome machines.

Video Resources –

No Flow Diagnosis -


Check Valve Replacement –


Check Valve Sequence –


Valve, Seal and Oil Replacement -

 
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Expanding The Spare Parts Department

Last year, I bought a Milwaukee Pack-Out unit to store various spare parts for my equipment. This was set up within one of my cabinets, allowing it to be out of sight but still easily accessible.



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This setup has been working very well, but.........................I was running out of room! The beauty of the Pack-Out system is the modularity, meaning you can easily add to the setup and have it all lock together. So, adding another unit was a natural decision.

Milwaukee now offer 2, 3 and 4-drawer configurations, but I decided to stay with the 3-drawer unit. Because I had a store credit, I again bought this from Total Tools, but the same units at Sydney Tool's right next door are noticeably cheaper. That's strange because typically Milwaukee has their prices standardized from store to store.



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Blades...................

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Spark plugs, chassis and carburetor parts..................

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Air filters.......................

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Fuel line and starter rope.......................

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Oil filters, chains and belts........................

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Various used parts.........................

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The blue folder sitting next to the drawers is used to catalog the various owner's manuals, ideal for quick and easy reference when I'm not in front of my computer.

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Organizational Bliss! :D
 
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Capping off my day pottering in the garage, the Mustang got a "sanity wash".

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The wheels and paint were cleaned using Opti-Coat M-Wash. I also gave the exhaust tips a once over with P21S Polishing Soap.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/p..._psq=P21s&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=32016154591321

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After drying, glass, tyre dressing, interior wipe down and vac, I went over the exhaust tips with two layers of Dr. Beasly's Metal Coat.

https://www.obsessedgarage.com/products/dr-beasleys-metal-coat

I then had a delivery arrive from CarCareCo, of which the bottle of Frostbite was only unveiled in the USA this time last week, so it's quite unusual to get a just released product so soon in Australia.


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Compared to the runnier Pearl and Radiance from P&S, Frostbite produces much thicker foam for extended dwell time. It's also an alkaline soap, with the pH quoted as being 9.9. Scent is Eucalyptus Mint. The DIY Waterless Wash is something I have been wanting to try for a little while now.


The concept of the Rip-n-Rag is not a new idea, I've had bulk towels like this before. However, the point of difference with The Rag Company offering is the quality. Despite the low 190 gsm and the multi-purpose job description, the 70/30 blend delivers a quality towel at a low price. For perspective, an 80-count roll delivers a per towel cost of 0.87c AUD, or 0.37c USD. Instead of using shop or paper towels, I like to use this sort of towel for checking oil, machine maintenance, oil changes, polishing exhaust tips, adhesive removal...................


 
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D.F.B

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Thanks another detailing shop to look at.
CarCareCo is the Australian importer and distributor of The Rag Company towels, products and tools. I think they are the P&S distributor as well. You will find that they offer the widest range or TRC and P&S products compared to the other retailers.

From what I can gather, CarCareCo is basically the retail arm of the business that had until recently been geared towards supplying to the commercial car wash industry. Apparently, they are winding back on the car wash side to focus on retail. However, I don't think they are ready for that.

I don't love buying from them because their shipping is more than it should be, the products seem to always arrive covered in dust, and the customer service is poor. On a couple of occasions, they have sent the wrong product, then didn't bother to respond to email requests to fix the mistake, the replacement just arrives unannounced. That sort of thing is not going conductive to repeat custom.
 
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My day started off on a high note after seeing my post on Inside the Hex got the tick of approval from the master himself.................... :D

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On the agenda today, the Ranger was in line for a wash. Despite it raining last week, the car was remarkably clean with little to no road film. This is where having a ceramic coating on a daily driver makes a lot of sense. Even still, I wanted it fully clean to start my week, and to use a new product...............

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P&S Frostbite was only released in the USA this time last week, and yet it's already on sale in Australia, so I'm one of the first customers to use it. This is a high foaming mild alkaline soap that can be used as a foaming pre-wash or in a bucket. The scent is quite unlike any other soap I have used, a distinctive "Eucalyptus Mint Green Tea" mashup.

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In this case, I used Frostbite on the Ranger as it a bit of deeper cleanse, the first since the Gyeon Pure EVO coating was applied late last year. Unlike P&S's other soaps such as the excellent Radiance or the terrible Pearl, Frostbite foams like a champ at the suggested 10:1 ratio. It's pleasingly slick and rinses well. Considering the higher pH, I wouldn't use this every wash, but for dealing with tougher road grime or as a periodic coating decon wash, its a solid offering.

I also had a chance to try DIY Detail Waterless wash.

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I tend to use waterless wash products for wiping down door jambs and engine bays, along with wiping down the outside of the Ranger's tray. The scent of this product is a touch strong, but it's an otherwise excellent product with high lubrication.

And after an extended slumber, I fired up the XR8 for some exercise today. I wish I had more time and motivation to get this car out more often, but at least when I do, it's a special occasion.

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After letting the car cool down while washing the Ranger, I decided to give the XR8 rinse-less wash before putting it back to bed. I started by washing the wheels as I normally would, Brake Buster for the tyres and foamed NV Snow for the wheels. I then moved the car back into the garage for the rinse-less wash using P&S Absolute, Clean Maker the drying aid.
 

ajohno

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That FG XR8 and colour is beautiful. Just recently I was looking at grey colour with 30 thousand km on it for $46000. I passed as every rim was gutter scratched and black stickers all over it.
If it happens might have to look at the S650 Mustang. My son is a mechanic at Ford and said apparently they might be delayed till next year if they even bring them out here.
 
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D.F.B

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That FG XR8 and colour is beautiful. Just recently I was looking at grey colour with 30 thousand km on it for $46000. I passed as every rim was gutter scratched and black stickers all over it.
If it happens might have to look at the S650 Mustang. My son is a mechanic at Ford and said apparently they might be delayed till next year if they even bring them out here.
Seriously? It's been delayed several times now so it wouldn't surprise me, but apparently cars are scheduled to start build for Australia this month with deliveries August-September.

I'm so close to cancelling now, if the right used example of another car I'm eyeing off pops up in the meantime, I'll be cancelling. I've been waiting for more than 18-months now, I could have gone and bought something else in the meantime, but Ford are clearly happy keeping customers on the hook and off the market. I have also been waiting for my new car to arrive so I can take some extended/long service leave, so the delays have me annoyed on two fronts.

Ok, so colour is one of my favorite car topics, so excuse my indulgence in the following..........................

As for the XR8's colour, I agonized over that choice. I really wanted fire engine red for that car, but Ford had dropped Vixen Red prior to the FG-X's release. I was then considering Smoke (dark grey), Kinetic (Ford Corporate Blue) and Emperor Red.

Smoke would have been classy, if a little boring, and Kinetic was clearly the signature colour and ended up being one of the most popular choices.

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That left Emperor Red, but I couldn't fully decide if I liked it or not. The predecessor to Emperor was called Seduce, a vibrant cherry red that I felt "popped" a little better in the sun. Emperor was darker with more metallic flake, but it could also look "muddy" in low light. Because Ford dealers weren't stocking Falcon's like they once did, and the fact Emperor wasn't a popular colour, seeing the it in person was somewhat difficult. Even so, I ordered Emperor and then spent the following months stalking other Falcon's and Territory's painted in that colour.

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As soon as it came off the truck, I knew I had made the right choice.

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What I love about Emperor is how much gold flake it has in the sun, but then takes on a glass, rich tone in low light.

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Emperor ended up being one of the rarer colors on the FG-X XR8, it also wasn't available on the final Sprint models. In fact, of the 2179 FG-X XR8's made, mine is one of 95 cars in Emperor, of which 73 were Auto's.

FG X FALCON XR8 BUILD NUMBERS
TOTAL BUILD2179
Silhouette (Black)504Winter White451
Auto355Auto349
Manual149Manual102
Kinetic (Blue)457Smoke (Grey)289
Auto323Auto225
Manual134Manual64
Victory Gold172Lightning Strike (Silver)123
Auto134Auto103
Manual38Manual20
Emperor Red95Aero Blue75
Auto73Auto50
Manual22Manual25
Vanish (Dark Blue)13
Auto9
Manual4
 
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D.F.B

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I also had the dealer retain the build sheet, stickers and protective covers from the assembly line. I had them photo copied and filed away for safe keeping. Not that I intend to sell the car, but these would obviously be quite desirable to a potential buyer.

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ajohno

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That‘s the colour smoke dark grey. I have my son on the look out as he knows how fussy I am with cars.
My son works big Ford dealership and he said the dealer principal has no idea about the Mustangs and hates it when people cancel their orders.

Hopefully yours will come soon.
 
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D.F.B

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That‘s the colour smoke dark grey. I have my son on the look out as he knows how fussy I am with cars.
My son works big Ford dealership and he said the dealer principal has no idea about the Mustangs and hates it when people cancel their orders.

Hopefully yours will come soon.
Thing is, the dealer principle getting annoyed at canceled orders is tough ****. If it was a cancelled order on a Ranger that was ordered a few months ago, then sure. But on the Mustang, there's got to a point where customers get tired of being forgotten about and strung along. If the dealer network and Ford head office would collaborate more, customers wouldn't be left sitting in the dark. Personally, waiting two years for a ****** mass-produced Ford is unacceptable, if I chose to back out of the deal, that not on me.

To be fair to my salesman, he is super frustrated by Ford and their handling of the S650 Mustang. I'm nothing but understanding of the situation he is in, he wants to sell me the car and get his commission as much as I want my brand-new car.
 

ajohno

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I agree with you 100%. All I see on YouTube is how everyone likes there S650 and we can’t even get them here yet.
 
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I'm late to the party, but I'm now on board the Touchless train.


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I was sent about 2 liters of Touchless to sample last year, I tried it a few times and was not impressed. That's because I was diluting it too much in the foam cannon bottle and via the high flow rate of my pressure washer. I continued to use it in different dilutions and now think I have it dialed. Having said that, the bottle Touchless above is the recently superseded version, a more concentrated reformulation is available overseas and shouldn't be far off. That will mean recalculating the convoluted panel impact ratio. :rolleyes:

I'll be completely honest in that I'm not using this soap on my own cars, they just don't need that sort of cleaning power. However, Touchless is too good not to have around when dealing with far dirtier cars than my own, it's cleaning ability is remarkable.

Also in that order was the new XL version of the Detail Factory Tire Brush.


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Compared to the excellent original, the XL version offers four times the surface area, which should prove useful on larger side walls.
 
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D.F.B

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Spare parts for the Kranzle arrived today.

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The check valve kit I will keep for stock, the pressure gauge will be installed to replace the non-operative original.

I have also ordered a bottle of Briggs & Stratton Pump Saver. This is primarily aimed at the US market to prevent damage to the pump if it happens to freeze with water in it. However, it also prevents damage to pistons and seals for long term storage or infrequent use.

 
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Tactile

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Left it with my father in law in 2015 when I went to Qld and it was supposed to of stopped working not long after. I suspected he ran it standing up or lent it to one of his dead-beat mates who did same. Ive never bothered to follow up with it...he wrecks everything he touches and we aren't on the best of terms so here we are.
 
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Left it with my father in law in 2015 when I went to Qld and it was supposed to of stopped working not long after. I suspected he ran it standing up or lent it to one of his dead-beat mates who did same. Ive never bothered to follow up with it...he wrecks everything he touches and we aren't on the best of terms so here we are.
Sorry to hear that, and I know the sort.

I have a co-worker that's like that, breaks everything he touches. I'm not sure how, but he seems to have a knack for snapping broom/rake/shovel handles right in two. And talking of pressure washers, he blew up the boss's personal machine by running it with no water turned on, burnt the pump up real good, a $700 machine went in the bin.

As for the Kranzle, I have seen where an 1152 / 1122 being ran extensively run in a professional setting in the upright position without causing it to blow up. They can also be run without water for a certain period too. Not that you would purposely do either, but these things are tougher than you would think.

The easiest things to check would be the unloader, making sure it's wound all the way in, people like to play with them for some reason. You would then inspect the inlet screen. The check valves are easily removed, cleaned or replaced if needed, along with the anti-back flow check valve.

If its leaking water from under the pump, or the oil is milky, then its going to be the seals behind the pump. That's more involved because of the sequence of seals, washers and plugs that all need to be aligned and inserted into the barrels correctly, and without the tool, you need to work them in with a screwdriver without scratching the brass pump.

If all else fails, reach out to Power Blast, in particular ask for Dennis. He will talk you through it or arrange for it to be repaired. These things are too good to be left out of action.

 

Tactile

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After reading your posts I'd say its probably a similar problem to yours, he wouldn't of purged the water out of it or done any maintenance at all.

I also sold him the best powered appliance Ive ever owned - a Kawasaki tiller. The Japanese make awesome market garden products, there was not one thing that I could find wrong with this device, I hate using this word for engineering excellence but this thing was art! I used to service it every time I used it, change the oil in the engine and the grearbox, remove the tines, clean and lubed it up. I saw it a few months ago and it was wrecked and wont run anymore...pissed me off!
 
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D.F.B

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After reading your posts I'd say its probably a similar problem to yours, he wouldn't of purged the water out of it or done any maintenance at all.

I also sold him the best powered appliance Ive ever owned - a Kawasaki tiller. The Japanese make awesome market garden products, there was not one thing that I could find wrong with this device, I hate using this word for engineering excellence but this thing was art! I used to service it every time I used it, change the oil in the engine and the grearbox, remove the tines, clean and lubed it up. I saw it a few months ago and it was wrecked and wont run anymore...pissed me off!
And yet, if you didn't allow the person to borrow it, you would have been labeled stingy. It's a no-win situation.

As far as I'm concerned, if I borrow something and break it, I would be having it repaired or replaced.
 
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D.F.B

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The XR6 surfaces again after more than two months.

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Back in 2008, after I first took my grandmother for a ride in this car for the first time, from then on she called it the "Blue Rocket". Despite being only the naturally aspirated version, the XR6 would have been the most powerful car she had ever ridden in. And no, I wasn't bouncing the rev limiter of my brand-new car with my 85-year-old grandmother in the passenger seat.

Every time I get back into this car, it feels like home. I actually had a light bulb moment driving out of the storage compound, this car is so delightfully simple. Compared to the Mustang or Jaguar, other than selecting Performance Mode on the gearbox, there's no starter button, no mode buttons to press, no modes to set for the steering or throttle response, no beeping reverse sensors, no seat warmers, no multi-colour instrument illumination, no auto-stop-start, no paddle shifters, no fancy gear selector, no layer after layer of screen menu's, no Bluetooth or audio streaming............................

Are those missing features missed? Maybe, I would have loved for Ford to have included shift paddles and rev matching for the FG, and I probably should have paid the $450 for the Tech Pack that brought Bluetooth and audio connectivity to the table. However, it's refreshing to step back in time and just drive the car without fiddling with modes and buttons. Just put the key in the ignition, turn to start the engine and then select drive. Simple.

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D.F.B

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I've just emailed my salesman about my S650 order. I have to say, as it stands I'm actually getting quite depressed about the whole situation. Delay after delay is getting old and I really don't know what to do now.

I placed the order in September 2022 knowing full well that it was going to be a long wait. But two years is ridiculous for what is a mass-produced Ford. Apparently my car was to be made in early April 2024, but its been suggested that has been pushed out to June.

My problem is, the S650 is now two years old in the USA, so I will either end up with a superseded model at full retail price (these cars are basically $100,000 now), or Ford will hold all Australian deliveries back until an updated model arrives, in which case the whole process starts again, so another two years?

Two years ago, I wasn't ready for a new car, but I knew I would be by the time late 2023 rolled around, the original expected deliveries. But I can't help but feeling as if I am wasting time on a car that may not be the "new" model, let alone arrive at all.

In recent months, I have been on the hunt for a car on the used market. Frustratingly, I'm finding that most of what's available are painted white or black, neither are colors I want for such a special car. Green, blue, red and grey I would jump on. I then question why the hell would someone choose rental-fleet flat white paint on such an expensive car when new, no imagination.

Meanwhile, I guess I have to keep fantasizing about what wheels and exhaust I would fit to my S650, what I'll do with the paint, where I want to go in it.............................. and the long service leave I have been wanting to take to coincide with the cars arrival.

So confused and frustrated at being in limbo.

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Wreckster23

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Newburgh, NY
I would be losing my mind waiting 2 years for a car. I have little patience and am probably quite American in that.

Want to ask your opinion. I have drying assist, thats quite nice to use. What would you use to wax/seal on top of that?
 
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D.F.B

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I would be losing my mind waiting 2 years for a car. I have little patience and am probably quite American in that.

Want to ask your opinion. I have drying assist, thats quite nice to use. What would you use to wax/seal on top of that?
I'm not familiar with that product, unless you were meaning "drying aid"?

Typically, you would use a drying aid as a topper to an existing wax, sealant or ceramic coating. Having said that, drying aids seem to have evolved to be re-purposed spray sealants, so quite often the use of one of those provides pretty decent protection.
 
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D.F.B

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While I knew this was coming, Detailing Shed have just announced the addition of Armour Detail Supply to their store, the first to sell the brand in Australia.


Armour Detail Supply is the brainchild of a young bloke called Bradley Nilsen, who also runs a detailing and PPF studio called Naples Auto Armour in Bonita Springs, Florida. I love these sort of stories, a young guy with the drive and passion to take it to the big boys.


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The Armour Detail Supply range is centered around high solids count ceramic coatings. The focus is on real world durability claims rather the best-case-scenario figures provided by key competitors. In addition to the coatings, they also have a line of maintenance products.

For the time being, Detailing Shed are offering the range of ceramic coatings for paint, glass and wheels. To date, I have only used the high-temp wheel coating, easily the best wheel coating on the market.


Compared to other wheel specific coatings that I have used in the past, I love the slickness and extreme hydrophobic behavior of Armour Detail Supply Wheel Coating. Quite often, those two elements are missing from other similar products. And from what I have noticed over the years, most wheel coatings are lucky to achieve their quoted durability, so if the claims of two years and beyond are true, then this is arguably the products best attribute.

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I now have this coating on two cars..........................and one lawn mower! It can be applied to all wheel finishes, including matte black, and can also be used to coat brake calipers and dust shields...............anything that will be subjected to high heat conditions. The initial wipe off is pretty grabby, but it smooths out to a slick finish once it's been fully leveled and cured.

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Coating the lawn mower was more so as a laugh, but its actually keeping the unit cleaner, not attracting dust like you would expect and a simple hose down is all it needs.

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Of the other coatings offered, its pleasing to see these also offer a slick finish. Again, slickness is often traded for additional durability, so this aspect has it sitting as a strong contender to coat my S650...............if Ford ever build it. And while not available just yet, I'm see Amplify ceramic quick detailer gaining a strong following, same for the Shampoo+ maintenance soap.


It's been a while since I was genuinely excited about a new detailing brand hitting Australian shores, Armour Detail Supply could very well be the next Carpro.
 
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D.F.B

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If you don’t get your new Mustang what other cars are you looking to buy.
Three cars, a BMW M2 (previous gen), Porche Cayman (6 cylinder only) or a Jaguar F-Type (V8 only).

All three of those mean buying used. Considering my current Mustang only has 10,000 km on the clock, to buy any of the above means 4 to 8 times those km's for the same price or less than a brand-new Mustang. To me that doesn't really add up.

The other problem is finding any of the above in a colour other than black or white. For a daily driver, I get why you would choose white. On a "special" or weekender, why on earth would anyone choose white? To me, it's a fleet colour, an F-Type in white is a waste of such a beautiful design. I also do not want a black car, the colour doesn't do a thing for me and I'm a slave to shiny paint as it is let alone what it would take to maintain black. You might think I'm being picky, but colour is very important to me.
 

ajohno

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Mar 25, 2014
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Sydney Australia
Nice cars you are looking at.
Funny thing is I like white. I had a Blue FG XR6 turbo the same blue as yours. My car now is white and so is my wife’s. I like colour cars but I live in the bush so white is easier to clean move on.
 

Wreckster23

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Aug 15, 2014
Messages
369
Location
Newburgh, NY
I'm not familiar with that product, unless you were meaning "drying aid"?

Typically, you would use a drying aid as a topper to an existing wax, sealant or ceramic coating. Having said that, drying aids seem to have evolved to be re-purposed spray sealants, so quite often the use of one of those provides pretty decent protection.
Sorry, yes. Drying aid. I’ve noticed it works a lot like a spray on sealer which is nice. Just a light coat though.

Out of the three you listed, the Cayman would top my list as a sunny day car, and has been on my list for when the kids move out. Otherwise the M2 is not far behind. I’m also very partial to Audi but certainly don’t want that headache on my hands.

I’m also very fond of the Fiat Spider. Just beautiful cars.
 
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D.F.B

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Sorry, yes. Drying aid. I’ve noticed it works a lot like a spray on sealer which is nice. Just a light coat though.

Out of the three you listed, the Cayman would top my list as a sunny day car, and has been on my list for when the kids move out. Otherwise the M2 is not far behind. I’m also very partial to Audi but certainly don’t want that headache on my hands.

I’m also very fond of the Fiat Spider. Just beautiful cars.
I'm assuming its OG Drying Aid you have been using? In which case, that is a polymer spray sealant that contains Si02 added for good measure.

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The base formula is from B&B Blending and is called Slipstream in their catalog. The product is bottled for various brands including Adam's (Slick-n-Slide), Ethos (Pro-Shine) and Xtreme Solutions (Topper). For OG, they removed the scent and colorant to help with chemical stability, which I have found to be a worthy change after using the heavily scented and colored Adam's and Ethos versions.

While it doesn't quite reach the gloss and slickness of Bead Maker, it is slightly easier to work with.
 
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D.F.B

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Considering I have more Victa's in my care than an actual dealer would carry in stock, I decided I wanted a sign to hang on my garage wall. This is how my order showed up........................

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I guess it looks more shabby chic now?

The way it was creased was very deliberate, like it was sent like that, or someone in Australia Post though such an action was appropriate despite the package wrapped with "FRAGILE" tape.

The vendor is making me a new one, but just wish people (Aust Post) would be honest when they screw up. I guess I'm too naive for my own good.
 
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D.F.B

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SamYoung

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Jun 4, 2020
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Massillon, Ohio
You will not be disappointed with your Knipex. My collection has slowly been growing over the years. I really like their cobra pliers and parallel jaw pliers wrenches of which I have a pretty full set of each. I've started building out some of their other wrenches now and have not found one that I haven't liked. They're just built so well.
 
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