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E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD

MN4x4

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

I am loving this thread as I've never restored a vehicle but have one waiting. Please keep posting - I love the detail of your documentation.

BTW, are you going to give the owner a set of these photos to go with the truck?
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

I think the POR-15 company should invent an expanding foam that you could shoot into an area like that.

(I sent them an e-mail about it)

See below!

You beat me to it! I agree totally.

I also have thought of some kind of long (disposable) tube or snout with a kind of spray head like a Hudson garden sprayer. You could drill a small hole in a space like that windshield A pillar and put the snout in there to thoroughly drench it in POR-15 or other product. Sure, it would not be perfect but it would be an improvement.

There used to be a few "rust=proofing companies (remember Ziebart?!) that did something similar. They drilled holes in pillara and rockers, sprayed in some kind of magic potion and plugged the holes with a little rubber stopper. It worked...sometimes....

Actually, there's an old standby rubberized undercoating you can use (it used to be called body Shutz) and was likely OK on new car applications, but for this type of work Eastwood has something just like you're thinking of that I'd like to try. I beleive it's a wax-like penetrant like I was talking about. Here's the links.

http://www.eastwood.com/rustproofing-and-undercoating-system.html
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

E-Tek, I think you are bustin' azz on this truck and I highly doubt you could be getting paid a fair, representative wage for it. It's just time, time, time to do it right and very few will do it for themselves, much less for someone else.

Why thank you Sir. Bit there's 2 things I have going for me: 1. I enjoy doing this kind of work and 2. I'm getting paid cash! :thumbup: But you're right, there's much more money in collision work, so shops don't do much rust owrk/restoration anymore.

I am loving this thread as I've never restored a vehicle but have one waiting. Please keep posting - I love the detail of your documentation.

BTW, are you going to give the owner a set of these photos to go with the truck?

First off - you can do it. Read everything you can (autobodystore.com and Carcraft.com are good) and take your time. And get the right tools.

And yes, I always do a thread for the owners. They have links to this one and one on 67-72Chevytrucks.com http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=420843
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Did a lot of interior & exterior sanding today, which doesn't translate in photo's very well (but is dirty, hard work!).

IMG_3041.JPG


As well, began the bolt-up of the front end. Not having taken it apart - and not having any of the fasteners (old or new), or a FSM for that matter, is like a jigsaw puzzle - without the box. I had to stop a little earlier than planned, but first thing tomorrow - I'll order a FSM and some fastener kits!

IMG_3038.JPG


IMG_3039.JPG
 

gsport

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

yes.. without being the one to take it apart, it would be like doing a jigsaw puzzle.. i took mine apart, and i'm thinking i have a jigsaw puzzle here too...
 

Kevin54

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Got the lower A-pillar brackets welded back on and applied POR 15 to the cab bottom. Once the POR15 dries, I'll apply a Black Seam Sealer to any seams and gaps on the underside.


As well, I put a little AllMetal on some areas to be smoothed (inside of door sill/step).

IMG_2917.JPG


Hey E-Tek......Do you find the All-Metal to be good or have you had any problems with it? Reason I ask is that I used to use it all the time. Just about the only thing I would use. But the last few times I used it, it seemed like it took forever to cure, and would gum up any grit of paper that I used on it. Yes it was mixed appropriately if you ask. I don't have any problem with anything else, just the All-Metal. I have heard from other people also that have had the same problems with it curing out.
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Hey E-Tek......Do you find the All-Metal to be good or have you had any problems with it? Reason I ask is that I used to use it all the time. Just about the only thing I would use. But the last few times I used it, it seemed like it took forever to cure, and would gum up any grit of paper that I used on it. Yes it was mixed appropriately if you ask. I don't have any problem with anything else, just the All-Metal. I have heard from other people also that have had the same problems with it curing out.

YES - That does happen! I'm pretty sure it's due to the liquid hardener (not being a "creme") doesn't mix completely. It get mixed into most of it, but then gets used up and can't mix through any more of it. As well, being colorless, you can't see how well it's mixed....

Today was basically a lot more sanding. The owners came by, one to help with the sanding and one with some money - I warmly welcomed both! They also brought over all the fasteners and small parts that they properly bagged and tagged when they stripped the truck - very important!

IMG_3061.JPG


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A skiff of AllMetal on the lowers will help stave off rust as well:

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Cleaning the hood hinges - in a bath of Varsol and rust-eze:

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This item (bed-floor cross brace) needed some serious repair time:

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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Haven't update yet this week, so lots to show!

After cleaning and sanding the inner fenders, treated them with POR15:
IMG_3074.JPG


IMG_3075.JPG


Second coat on the bed rails as well

IMG_3076.JPG


On disassembly, both bolts attached to this mount where broken off. As I want to re-assemble the F. End to set the gaps/do bodywork, I needed to remove it, make a new braket and get the bracket back on:

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Zengineer

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck


I have found that when using POR-15, it's often better to use a centerpunch and punch 2 holes in the lid, on opposite sides of the can (like old school oil cans), and pour some into a disposable cup. If you seal the holes in the lid with a piece of electrical (non-porous) tape, it's a piece of cake to keep reusing and nothing will weld shut.

I had a can last over a year using this method.
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

More Metal Ready treatment on the door surface rust:

IMG_3107.JPG


I like to test and re-test various products that may help in restoration work. Lots of people seem to like these "rust-washes", but I've never had much luck with them. I'm guessing they may work on a little "top-surface" rust on chromed or polished tools, but that's about it. I had a bag of fasteners I needed cleaned up for the F.End, as well as the hood hinges (which I don't like to sandblast), I thought I'd give it another try. I soaked the fasteners in a bucket of Evapo-ruat and brushed Permatex' Rust Dissolver Gel on the hinges. All where left overnight.

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Of course sand-blasting always works!

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The Evapo-rust in the fastener bucket turned black and the hinges, which only had some minor surface rust, changed color. Maybe this time!

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The hinges loo pretty good, but as you can see, when I took the fasteners out, they still looked pretty nasty....

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I'll just fire up the sandblaster.......:wtf::bounce:
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

One of the long bolts for the cab mounts had snapped on exit. As it was Sunday and I couldn't find a suitable repalcement in my own collection, I decided to do a temp repiar so I could continue with my day....

IMG_3114.JPG


I used the OA set-up becuase I wanted to weld it together either with it's own material, or with the softer metal of filler rod.

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The bolt was fused togther with it's original material, but build-up was needed, so I ended up added filler rod to the circumference.

IMG_3117.JPG


Once filled out enough I recut the threads and was on my way to getting back to work. Monday I'll head to the bolt shop.

IMG_3120.JPG
 

Dan in Pasadena

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

No need to whine! lol. I usually just take a box of bolts over to my wire wheel on my bench grinder and have at it.

I asked before if you painted those inner fenders on the front end with a rattle can or spray gun? What paint did you use?
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

No need to whine! lol. I usually just take a box of bolts over to my wire wheel on my bench grinder and have at it.

I asked before if you painted those inner fenders on the front end with a rattle can or spray gun? What paint did you use?

POR15 my man - with a brush! It's really incredible sh1t! HAving said that, I just ordered some Eastwood rust products and am eager to see if they are similarly easy to use and stand up as well.
 

Kevin54

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

POR15 my man - with a brush! It's really incredible sh1t! HAving said that, I just ordered some Eastwood rust products and am eager to see if they are similarly easy to use and stand up as well.

Do they plan on painting over the POR15 or undercoating over it? The reason I ask is that the POR needs a nother coating to prevent fading from UV rays or it will dull out in no time.

I've used Chassis Saver with good success and a little cheaper than POR15 http://www.savesautobodysupply.com/chasissaver.html but ran into the same problems with getting the lid off. That stuffs welds itself to metal. I once spent almost an hour trying to get one off and totally destroyed it. One person told me to put Saran Wrap over the can before closing the lid down. What I did was just keep a few empty quart cans at home to pour the remainder into. You can get new, empty quart cans for just a small amount of change from your local paint supplier.

BTW E-Tek.....everything is looking great. I may not always comment, but I always look forward to your projects. :thumbup:

Now I suppose we are going to have to get some "I Love E-Tek" shirts and hats :lol_hitti
 

Jay H 237

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

POR15 my man - with a brush! It's really incredible sh1t! HAving said that, I just ordered some Eastwood rust products and am eager to see if they are similarly easy to use and stand up as well.


I've had good luck with the Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, plus it's UV resistant unlike POR.
 

Tscott

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

E-Tek,
You do good work. I would like to ask how often you do work like this for people. I would like to get started doing some custom work to try and make some side money. Ideally, I would like to buy a car, restore it and then turn it for a profit. I would be willing to do work for customers as well as long as they were the right type (easy to work with and respectful). Do you find you have a good profit margin on stuff like this or is it mostly for the love of the craft?

Tom
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Its looking amazing. Very nice work.

:bowdown:Thank you sir!

Do they plan on painting over the POR15 or undercoating over it? The reason I ask is that the POR needs a nother coating to prevent fading from UV rays or it will dull out in no time.

I'll be overcoating some of the parts (those exposed), so what you do is spray a "tie-coat" primer on, then the top coat. POR goes a bit grey over time in the sun, but it takes 6 months to a year.
.... ran into the same problems with getting the lid off.....One person told me to put Saran Wrap over the can before closing the lid down. What I did was just keep a few empty quart cans at home to pour the remainder into. You can get new, empty quart cans for just a small amount of change from your local paint supplier.
Yes - Saran-wrap is best if you want to re-use the lid, but then someone here mentioned punching 2 holes in the lid, then sealing with duct-tape between pours - works great!!
BTW E-Tek.....everything is looking great. I may not always comment, but I always look forward to your projects. :thumbup: Now I suppose we are going to have to get some "I Love E-Tek" shirts and hats :lol_hitti
:bowdown:Thanks - like the wife says: It's just nice to hear it once in a while!!:lol_hitti But let's keep the shirts and hats for Jack - LOL!
E-Tek,
You do good work. I would like to ask how often you do work like this for people. I would like to get started doing some custom work to try and make some side money. Ideally, I would like to buy a car, restore it and then turn it for a profit. I would be willing to do work for customers as well as long as they were the right type (easy to work with and respectful). Do you find you have a good profit margin on stuff like this or is it mostly for the love of the craft?

Tom

I've had awesome luck with doing this "on the side". I do 1 or 2 projects per winter and only work for people that really respect the trade. I charge $50/hr cash which adds up and works out for both me AND the car owner. I have them "pay-as-we-go", so I always have money coming in and never have a scenario where the guy owes me too much. Though it's never happened, if the money stopped, so would the work.:bounce:
 

djjsr

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Just an FYI, if you order POR-15 on their website, they have free shipping until the end of the month. Use code HFSO.
 
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The Rider

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Love this thread!

I know next to ****** all about restoration fabrication and view these posts as a "masterclass".

If you lived closer I'd willingly pay to sit in for a session a week to learn how it's done in the same way my wife teaches piano three times a week!!
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Todays weather: STINKING GROSS!! We had an early season blizzard here in Saskaberia, so instead of driving out to see an account of mine 2 hours away, I spent 6 hours in the shop - much more cozy and relaxing!

First off, sandblasted all the hardware that I had soaked in the Evapo-Rust and/or brushed with Permatex' Rust Gel - two products I CANNOT recommend. Check out how the hinges came out after trying to clean off these rust preparations:

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Close up of the mess left behind:

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Sandblasted fasteners:

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I then put all the blasted parts in my small-parts paint booth/fume hood, ready for Etch primer:

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For those that haven't seen it before, here's a shot of the fume-hood, the duct fan I use to exhaust the overspray, as well as the filter medium as I changed it out (works well!):

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Bolting up the fenders - took an hour to align the left one due to the inner fender brace touching the A-pillar where I made some repairs - that's why it's SO important to bolt everything up before paint.

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Front-end looks straight!

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Front-end with filler attached:

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As well, I ground down the rust on the door bottoms and sprayed them again with MetalReady. While doing so, I found a couple small rust-through spots that will need repairing.
 

rwhite692

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Ed you are doing a bang-up job. Thanks for posting all the photos, this thread will make a great history review for the owner, whole process, start-to-finish.
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Thanks gents!
Kinda in that state where nothing much "looks" to be happening.... But as I'm sure you bodymen know, there's a lot of bolting up, removing, re-bolting, finding fasteners and parts, aligning and tweakinggoing on, (then more aligning!) before the process of metal work and filler work can even be started. Then, once she's roughed out and feathered, a coat of primer makes it look like it's jumped WAY ahead. Thanks for staying tuned!
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

After pulling the hood and door hinges out of the fume hood, I got to sanding down the door inners. Want to get some primer on them prior to bolting them onto the truck for fitment and body work.

80 grit on the DA amkes quick work of the factory runs (lots!), grind off rust and any chips or scratches due to the ravages of time and hard use:

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Used a wire wheel to clean out the edges along the crimped over door skins

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Then cleaned out the water channels on the door bottoms to make sure any water doesn't sit in there again

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Lastly, I applied POR15 to the door bottoms that had been treated (several times) with MetalReady, as well as on some rusty spots on the inside of the door skins. On the bottom, I made sure to get the POR15 into the water channels and the door skin edges. Show me a shop that'll do that!

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The inner doors will require a few hours of metal work...someone along the line was pretty hard on the old girl!

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Motown 454

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

e-tek The truck is coming out great. Have you ever tried this rust remover
http://www.safestrustremover.com/
I tried it on some parts and they came clean, no more rust. It doesn't damage the parts. Check out the site it actually work like they say.
Wayne
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

e-tek The truck is coming out great. Have you ever tried this rust remover
http://www.safestrustremover.com/
I tried it on some parts and they came clean, no more rust. It doesn't damage the parts. Check out the site it actually work like they say.
Wayne

Hey Wayne - take a look at post #143. If it's anything like "Evaporust", I just haven't had any luck. Perhaps it's a different concoction, but I've tried a few of them and none have worked on any real rust. But I'll have to try it if you say it works.
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Remember those crusty hood hinges? Here's the blasted and primered product:

IMG_3148.JPG


The door hinges where tweaked - as evidenced by the damage to each door. They show here as pulled up at the thread holes. In the repair, the thinned metal split at the fold. This will require some welding of course, but I also will need to figure a way to shore it up to add strength.

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Preparing for primer with wax and grease remover. Always wipe on and dry it off when still wet.

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Etch primer went all the bare metal areas

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4StarCstms

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

That is some serious damage on those hinge mounts!!! Well I'm confident you'll come up with a good way to fix it, that'll last longer than the factory job!

:thumbup: :beer:
 

MP&C

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

You can see the spot welds in this pic holding the "hinge bolting plate" in place. Should be a fairly simple drill out the spot welds and fab up a new one, reweld. Coming along nicely Etek..


IMG_3158.JPG
 

Lippyp

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

I use a product over here called Deox-C made by a company called Bilt-Hamber. It comes as a powder you mix with warm water and then just soak the parts in it overnight and it really does work. It works even better if you can keep the solution warm, I keep meaning to invest in a small plastic tank and a fish tank heater to do this. Just to give you an idea this picture shows the old steel shutters from my house in France, they were heavily rusted, all I did was a quick once over with a wire wheel to remove the loose rust, mix up a couple of gallons of solution and make a bath by simply digging a hole in the then earth floor of my cellar and lining it with heavy gauge plastic and soaked them for 24/36 hours. they came out like new. I use it a lot on car parts with great success. Its non toxic and non corrosive, just stings a bit if you have any cuts on your hands.

shutters.jpg
 

dellwas

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

That stuff is awesome! I'll have to see if I can find a source for it in Canada.

I use a product over here called Deox-C made by a company called Bilt-Hamber. It comes as a powder you mix with warm water and then just soak the parts in it overnight and it really does work. It works even better if you can keep the solution warm, I keep meaning to invest in a small plastic tank and a fish tank heater to do this. Just to give you an idea this picture shows the old steel shutters from my house in France, they were heavily rusted, all I did was a quick once over with a wire wheel to remove the loose rust, mix up a couple of gallons of solution and make a bath by simply digging a hole in the then earth floor of my cellar and lining it with heavy gauge plastic and soaked them for 24/36 hours. they came out like new. I use it a lot on car parts with great success. Its non toxic and non corrosive, just stings a bit if you have any cuts on your hands.]
 
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e-tek

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Re: E-tek Resto's 56 Chevy Truck

Well, after a bit of down time in San Diego - where cars don't rust but everyone leases new - I got back at the 56!

Last I posted, I was about to repair the lower hinge pocket on the Right door. I thought (briefly) about removing the pocket, repairing the cracks from the backside and re-installing it, but that was going to add to much more damage to a near pristine door. Since welding from the front or back would basically result in the same repair, I decided to leave it in and repair it from the front. Easy decision.

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The other side also had some pull-through around one of the captive nuts.

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After an inital weld up, I ground it down and checked where more weld would be needed.

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Cleaned up all the bolts as well before re-installing the doors.

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and the captive nuts with the "tap on a stick" method...

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One of the captive nuts broke loose when cleaning. Since it's inaccessable from the top side, I cut some slits into the pocket and welded them from the top side.

Marked it:

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Cut it:

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Welded it up:

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I made this door installation-holder a while back...no more struggling. Doors are always a one-man job now without the grunting!

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Can't see the repairs that where done! I was on a roll, but aligning them will have to wait until next time - the wifey is calling me for dinner!!
 
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