Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
E-Tek...next time you're in the parts store, pick up a "Fin Comb". They are not expensive (maybe $2.00 tops) but are nice to have in the tool box for straightening out radiator fins.
E-tek Restorations: PROJECT THREAD
- Thread starter e-tek
- Start date
E-Tek...next time you're in the parts store, pick up a "Fin Comb". They are not expensive (maybe $2.00 tops) but are nice to have in the tool box for straightening out radiator fins.
HOTFR8
Banned
On the blog I explained that I have one somewhere - just couldn't find it!! Maybe I used it on my mustache and left it in the bathroom....
I can never get enough of those to sell. Use it on the Mo
You must have a tuff Mo. 
JTurbo
Active member
I've read through this thread. Very awesome work. Even learned some tips and tricks for my projects.... Great job E-Tek!!
MP&C
Well-known member
I sure could have used that mustache tip/trick when I had a motorcycle for a daily driver!!
HOTFR8
Banned
Movember......... I get it. http://au.movember.com/
I get it. http://au.movember.com/Movember.........
HaHa - and I didn't get it when you didn't get it (mo
)!! It's a big news item in these parts during "Movember" - tho I see it's big in Ozz too!Of course having a mustache since I was 13 - every month is Movember to me....
The girls have always loved it - especially when I wear my shirt that says: "MUSTACHE RIDES: 5 cents"
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This weekend the 40 Fords owner came out to deliver some parts, discuss fitment of the seats, console design and style, air vent routing and more. No slouch to fabrication and mechanical work himself, he also lent a hand for a few hours on Sunday.
While under the car discussing linkages, he noticed that I had the ****** cooler and AC lines confused! The donor car must have had it's ****** cooler lines located where the AC lines are on this rad, so I thought that was where this one would be as well. So happens tho that this rad has the ****** cooler in the "standard/old school" location in the rad bottom, which ended up making everything much easier to connect. The AC cooler was turned back around and the ****** lines where cut and bend to insert into the rad bottom. Now we'll be able to connect them for run up here while the AC lines can wait until the rod is very near finished.
Owner lends a hand:
Baffle cut for AC line fitment:
****** oil lines cut and bent to meet up with bottom located cooler. Just need a couple reducers and some short hose pieces to connect them up now. This will do for the initial run up, then we'll get crimped lines made up with the AC lines (nothing worse than a slow "red-oil" cooler leak....)
Headlights were also dis-mantled for sand blasting. These will get POR15 back and silver before getting re-wired with the new stuff.
Also began the repair on the hood edge where the lock plate bolts up. This time it'll get reinforcement plates along the edges so as to alleviate the constant stress caused by the catch plate.
While under the car discussing linkages, he noticed that I had the ****** cooler and AC lines confused! The donor car must have had it's ****** cooler lines located where the AC lines are on this rad, so I thought that was where this one would be as well. So happens tho that this rad has the ****** cooler in the "standard/old school" location in the rad bottom, which ended up making everything much easier to connect. The AC cooler was turned back around and the ****** lines where cut and bend to insert into the rad bottom. Now we'll be able to connect them for run up here while the AC lines can wait until the rod is very near finished.
Owner lends a hand:
Baffle cut for AC line fitment:
****** oil lines cut and bent to meet up with bottom located cooler. Just need a couple reducers and some short hose pieces to connect them up now. This will do for the initial run up, then we'll get crimped lines made up with the AC lines (nothing worse than a slow "red-oil" cooler leak....)
Headlights were also dis-mantled for sand blasting. These will get POR15 back and silver before getting re-wired with the new stuff.
Also began the repair on the hood edge where the lock plate bolts up. This time it'll get reinforcement plates along the edges so as to alleviate the constant stress caused by the catch plate.
HOTFR8
Banned
HaHa - and I didn't get it when you didn't get it (mo
Of course having a mustache since I was 13 - every month is Movember to me....
Oh I got it OK, it is just the DRY Aussie sense of humor that was slow in forum translation.
I do sell those combs and I do have trouble getting them. As for the rides well I have not seen one of those shirts for a very long time. Have you even seen the badge ?
Oh keep up the good work and the photos I am enjoying them.
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
Hey e-tec1
Ck the right and left cowl width about even with the top door hinge (body line). Everyone I have had my hands on is wider on the right side. Max I have seen was 3/4 of and inch.
Capt. Chrysler
Ck the right and left cowl width about even with the top door hinge (body line). Everyone I have had my hands on is wider on the right side. Max I have seen was 3/4 of and inch.
Capt. Chrysler
HOTFR8
Banned
You are allowed to carry those in the back of the van ? Here you are not allowed to carry them in the same space as you are in the vehicle and you have to trasport them in a trailer or in the back of a ute or truck and then they also have to be properly restrained.I like the golf cart idea by the way. I repurposed something like that for the pressure washer.
PCO6
Well-known member
I'm not much of a golfer either. I strap a plastic garbage can to my old golf cart and drag it around with me at auto flea markets.Re-purposed my OLD golf hand-cart for pulling welding cylinders out of the shop to the van....gets used for this about once a month - more than I ever golfed!
I like the golf cart idea by the way. I repurposed something like that for the pressure washer.
No rules here!
HOTFR8
Banned
No rules here!
WOW, that really surprises me. Can you imagine what would happen to that cylinder if you got involved in an accident !
Likely nothing.
The argon could actually be helpful by smothering a fire! 
On another - more important note - we went to see Neil Young in concert last night. What a complete waste of time! I love live music and have seen most every rock artist over 35 years and this was by far the WORST gig I've ever attended. A maelstrom of distortion, one couldn't decipher where one song ended and another started. It's sad when artists diss their fan base by exercising their artistic self-gratification at the expense of what people actually paid to hear. What a way to ruin a legacy. I guess at 67 years of age the combination of dementia, loss of hearing and disdain for people should be expected!
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tdkkart
Well-known member
Nope, no problems here either, especially for non-commercial folks. I've hauled 125cf bottles laid across the rear seat floor of my car, I've transported large argon bottles laid out in the back of a hatchback car. Not a work was said at the welding shop where I exchange them.
I actually feel much more comfortable with them somewhat secured in the car than rolling around in the back of a pickup.
HOTFR8
Banned
Likely nothing.
What about the others you may have to carry ?
Rolling round in the back of a pickup here would see you fined for an insecure load as they have to be restrained. Even a Dog in the back of the Ute not ******* is an offense here. Yes even the Dog has to be restrained. Gas bottles and welding gas, LPG (propane) can not be carried with in the same area as your person or in the trunk (boot) of a car. They must be transported on the back of a truck, ute, pickup or trailer and must be secured so as not to move.
I recall some years ago the top coming off a welding gas or oxygen bottle in a car accident and it ended up going through the car and up the road creating another dangerous incident.
Well, now that we know where the World -Wide-Safety Institute is located, we can carry on.
With random shop pics....
Sale on swivel sockets and crows feet today at the "shrine":
Got a pair of manifolds blasted and painted (POR15 Manifold Grey):
The stuff is greta. Lasts a LONG time through major heat cycles and is very easily touched up - it's basically graphite pigment:
Then I got back on the 40 Ford. Headlight buckets and rings were blasted along with the manifolds.
Before:
After:
The retaining springs were wire wheeled and coated in graphite lube:
The shop was a little cool so I set up my make-shift parts painting booth with heat source:
Once the parts all had 4 coats on them I covered the entire thing to (1) keep the heat in and (2) keep the dirt out:
Lastly, I ran the positive wire through the floor and test-fit the battery. I'll build a hold-down for it and it'll get an upholstered box down the road...
Thanks for looking - more details on the blog.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
E-Tek, when you build the battery box, do you add any type of plastic vent tubing from it to some distance below the metal shell? I'm just wondering if the lead sulphite build-up on the nuts/posts creates a corrosive atmosphere in the vicinity of the box? I've heard that is why the Optima style battery is used when moved out of the engine compartment. 
HOTFR8
Banned
Well, now that we know where the World -Wide-Safety Institute is located, we can carry on.
http://www.worksafe.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0003/13089/faq_oxy_aceylene_equipment.pdf
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/SafetyAndRules/SaferVehicles/LoadsAndTowing/SecureYourLoads.htm
Have a look at the above two Ed.
raskal
Well-known member
e-tek, what do you use the red pressurized container for?
thanks
thanks
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
E-Tek.....what did you paint the buckets with that look like chrome? Or did I miss something between the sandblasting and this?
onewaydave
Well-known member
Dang, I've seen these things at a variety of auctions and always wondered what they were. Just never wondered enough to ask. Now, here, I am forced to learn something.
Dave, definitely not in the safety capital of the world.
E-Tek, when you build the battery box, do you add any type of plastic vent tubing from it to some distance below the metal shell? I'm just wondering if the lead sulphite build-up on the nuts/posts creates a corrosive atmosphere in the vicinity of the box? I've heard that is why the Optima style battery is used when moved out of the engine compartment.
"Sealed lead acid batteries don't really need ventilation when used indoors IF they are operating correctly. There's a nice bank of them running in a back office here, in fact... Now, the idea of using battery boxes is very good for safety reasons, to avoid short circuits."
That's from the SolarPanel Forum. A non-conducting box of some sort is used mostly to avoid accidental-shorting.
I keep Wax&Grease Remover in it, which I use to clean everything before painting, as well as cleaning rubber items (from plug wires to electrical conduit).
E-Tek.....what did you paint the buckets with that look like chrome? Or did I miss something between the sandblasting and this?
I noticed that too Kev. but that's just some kinda reflection. It was just a semi-gloss anti-rust black.
I still can't find my fin-comb and also couldn't find one at the "shrine" - looks like I'll hafta use my "REAL" mustache comb!
HaHa. I'm just kidding around with HOTFR8 (Simon). I've always been the guy who pushes back at the self-appointed safety monitors on the site. Of course I believe in safety, working safe, thinking safe, but I think "most" people know what's safe and what's not and that we don't need guys chiming into posts just to say: "That expired tank on your compressor is going to blow up your car, your garage, the house and the entire city block!"
Not that Simon is doing that at all, but (IMHO) places with too many rules are just making it difficult for the regular man to get stuff done....
HOTFR8
Banned
Yes I agree common sense is the thing. I was just asking and pointing out the rules we have here in Australia. They are easy to comply with and make for ones own safety. For example would you clean up something with paint thinners and then get the grinder out to use on the same thing ?
.
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You guys are lotsa fun, but back to the job at hand !!
Test-fit the HL buckets and re-wired them for the single sealed beams and combined park/marker lights:
Left the pigtails of and ready to be connected after paint:
Hot rods are a whole different animal than restorations. When you do a resto, you pretty much know how and where everything will go back together, but with hot rods, you basically have to build it twice - once to make it work and then again to make it pretty!
Did some reading on these hoods and found that the latch plate causes a lot of issues with the hood - both in alignment and damage done due to the repeated flexing. My plan to strengthen both sides is to double-up both the hood edge and the lock plate mounting tab areas:
This electric shear might be the best metal tool I've ever owned - easy peasy!
Now that it's trimmed to shape I'll clean up the edges, weld it to the top-side of the original panel and it'll be completely hidden. Should add a lot of strength to problem area. I'll do the same for the other 2 mounting areas as well.
Test-fit the HL buckets and re-wired them for the single sealed beams and combined park/marker lights:
Left the pigtails of and ready to be connected after paint:
Hot rods are a whole different animal than restorations. When you do a resto, you pretty much know how and where everything will go back together, but with hot rods, you basically have to build it twice - once to make it work and then again to make it pretty!
Did some reading on these hoods and found that the latch plate causes a lot of issues with the hood - both in alignment and damage done due to the repeated flexing. My plan to strengthen both sides is to double-up both the hood edge and the lock plate mounting tab areas:
This electric shear might be the best metal tool I've ever owned - easy peasy!
Now that it's trimmed to shape I'll clean up the edges, weld it to the top-side of the original panel and it'll be completely hidden. Should add a lot of strength to problem area. I'll do the same for the other 2 mounting areas as well.
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
"Hot rods are a whole different animal than restorations. When you do a resto, you pretty much know how and where everything will go back together, but with hot rods, you basically have to build it twice - once to make it work and then again to make it pretty!"
E-Tek, we've got complete faith in you; you will succeed on both counts!
E-Tek, we've got complete faith in you; you will succeed on both counts!
Thanks O!
Was just watching me some Search&Restore and noticed how Tim Strange (host & top car builder) uses the same filler techniques I do....which is to use a fiberglass fill over top of welded areas and putting body filler on bare metal - not priming first.
There's really only one right way....and the guys at my Dad's shop taught it to me: Thanks gentlemen.
Was just watching me some Search&Restore and noticed how Tim Strange (host & top car builder) uses the same filler techniques I do....which is to use a fiberglass fill over top of welded areas and putting body filler on bare metal - not priming first.
There's really only one right way....and the guys at my Dad's shop taught it to me: Thanks gentlemen.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Thanks O!
Was just watching me some Search&Restore and noticed how Tim Strange (host & top car builder) uses the same filler techniques I do....which is to use a fiberglass fill over top of welded areas and putting body filler on bare metal - not priming first.
There's really only one right way....and the guys at my Dad's shop taught it to me: Thanks gentlemen.
I just finished watching the same show.
As far as filler, I always put it over bare metal. Some will epoxy a car, then add filler. Myself, I always ground the area down with a 36 grit disc, then used All-Metal.
BTW....the headlight buckets, I can see now where they were painted. That one photo though sure made them look like black chrome.
HeHe...it's like we're living parallel lives!
Tons of debate on whether or not to prime first....even though it says right on the can to apply over bare metal....
I think it was the first light coat of black - over top of an etch primer - which was likely showing through maybe giving it that black-chrome reflective look....
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Finally got me a new welding helmet!
Time to retire "old Blacky":
Did a little fitting on the 40 Ford's hood latch:
A lot of this rod is ORIGINAL steel....in SERIOUS need of sandblasting!
As well as some hinge work...
Every time I look at the finished 331FE I want to get going on my other engines:
So I got back to work stripping the studs from one of the two flatheads I aquired in the summer:
I had welded this nut on one of the broken studs a while back but must've gotten distracted by something shiny....
First I grabbed Daddy's Little Helper....
Plus the stand you guys talked me into making (thanks!):
Heated it up and out it came!
With that bit of success as encouragement, I went on to another one, this time using the new stud extractor socket set I bought:
Another success! Holy ****, I was on a roll! Time to attack the ones that the previous owner had snapped off flush:
No wonder the studs snap so easily - made of very soft metal:
Decided to try a spiral extractor first:
Not exactly centered, but still moving forward....
After some more heat, WD40 and much twisting, the first one came out!
Unfortunately after about 20 minutes of ******* around the second one was still there....
and that was as far as I got....so I decided to take a break and get the other engine cleaned up for the machine shop trip:
Next weekend I might take a few hours out from the rod and strip the 390 as well, then I can take the 2 flats and this one to the machine shop together. Would be nice to have 3 engines to put together at the same time!
and then I heard the Hot Tub calling, so that'll do for now!
Time to retire "old Blacky":
Did a little fitting on the 40 Ford's hood latch:
A lot of this rod is ORIGINAL steel....in SERIOUS need of sandblasting!
As well as some hinge work...
Every time I look at the finished 331FE I want to get going on my other engines:
So I got back to work stripping the studs from one of the two flatheads I aquired in the summer:
I had welded this nut on one of the broken studs a while back but must've gotten distracted by something shiny....
First I grabbed Daddy's Little Helper....
Plus the stand you guys talked me into making (thanks!):
Heated it up and out it came!
With that bit of success as encouragement, I went on to another one, this time using the new stud extractor socket set I bought:
Another success! Holy ****, I was on a roll! Time to attack the ones that the previous owner had snapped off flush:
No wonder the studs snap so easily - made of very soft metal:
Decided to try a spiral extractor first:
Not exactly centered
, but still moving forward....
After some more heat, WD40 and much twisting, the first one came out!
Unfortunately after about 20 minutes of ******* around the second one was still there....
and that was as far as I got....so I decided to take a break and get the other engine cleaned up for the machine shop trip:
Next weekend I might take a few hours out from the rod and strip the 390 as well, then I can take the 2 flats and this one to the machine shop together. Would be nice to have 3 engines to put together at the same time!
and then I heard the Hot Tub calling, so that'll do for now!
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Heck E-Tek, with those three engines out to the machine shop, you'll have enough room in the shop to have a Christmas party! lol
raskal
Well-known member
1st, I love your work. Also your crazy fascination with PA gets shown to my wife every time to prove there are others like me.
but...
WD40 is not a lubricant
it displaces water... I like Lloyd's http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/6420008/Lubricants/Hi-Performance-Penetrating-Lubricant
/end pet peeve mode
awdblazer
Well-known member
that mask from pa too?
First, thanks for the kind comment.
Mrs E-tek refers to PA as "The Shrine". She knows that I'm much better off worshiping at "The Shrine" than out drinking, smoking dope or carousing with guys that don't have a garage to keep them busy.... she says: "At least I always know where you are!"
Secondarily to my love of PA is my love of WD40. I learned of it's incredible uses from my Dad, who bought it for his shop by the gallon. One of it's MAIN properties is as a light lubricant and one of it most important properties is breaking rust bonds, especially on threads:
What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product do? (from http://www.wd40.com/faqs/http://www.wd40.com/faqs/)
WD-40 Multi-Use Product fulfills five basic functions:
1. LUBRICATES: The product's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.
2. PENETRATES: WD-40 Multi-Use Product loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.
3. PROTECTS: The product protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.
4. REMOVES: WD-40 Multi-Use Product gets under dirt, grime and grease. Use it to remove gunk from tools, equipment and vehicles. WD-40 Multi-Use Product in liquid form (e.g., gallon) also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of excess bonding material.
5. DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because it displaces moisture, WD-40 Multi-Use Product quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
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don long
Well-known member
I think WD40 is a great product however
I had to ban the stuff from my bodyshop
because it floats in the air and caused fisheyes
in our paint jobs
It took a while to discover the cause
but no WD40 no fisheyes
Now I use it all the time in my garage
E-tek
Thanks for posting all those neat projects
I have enjoyed following along
Don
I had to ban the stuff from my bodyshop
because it floats in the air and caused fisheyes
in our paint jobs
It took a while to discover the cause
but no WD40 no fisheyes
Now I use it all the time in my garage
E-tek
Thanks for posting all those neat projects
I have enjoyed following along
Don
raskal
Well-known member
no doubt in my mind that WD40 is the best marketed product much like Fram
WD = Water Displacement
40 = 40th attempt
When a friend took his CJ5 through some water, I pulled out the WD40 and used it for it's purpose, sprayed in the distributor and removes water so the spark can happen
I bring it on trail runs as it will work in a pinch, and comes in smaller cans. At home, I use a penetrating fluid.
to each their own