250
Well-known member
Nice addition to the shop.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Eastern Washington Workshop
- Thread starter slodat
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
T-handle
Well-known member
That is one beefy lathe! Congratulations, that's a nice addition to the workshop.
Does it have a "reverse lead-screw" option?
Happy New Year Slodat!
Does it have a "reverse lead-screw" option?
Happy New Year Slodat!
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You can definitely tell that beast is heavy. I still can't get over the mass of that headstock.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
SD: I know at the moment you might be stretched on funds, but it seems like if anyone needed 3 phase power it would be you. any idea on the cost to get 3 phase into your shop?
I know you are close to the dam so the electric bill wouldn't be nearly what ours would be over here, but the costs to set up are probably still up there unless you find a shop closing that has some of the stuff.
nice looking lathe!!
I know you are close to the dam so the electric bill wouldn't be nearly what ours would be over here, but the costs to set up are probably still up there unless you find a shop closing that has some of the stuff.
nice looking lathe!!
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Super cool. I see now it's 2000rpm model. Nice. Probably more suited to the work you will do also.
And btw, YOU ****!!!
And btw, YOU ****!!!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I may have to steal the Kipp handle idea Steven. I just use a standard set screw and T-handle allen but I like that idea. Thank you.
xtremek
Well-known member
Happiness is never called overkill. Just ask Tim "the Toolman" Taylor.
Got the material rack back from the powder coat shop. Hung the first upright. Making the vertical out of 1/4” flat bar wasn’t the best choice. Made sense in my minds eye until I hung it on the wall. Added three more anchors. It will easily hold the minimal load I plan to put on it. If I had it to do again I would have used tube or angle for the upright. The reason I didn’t is so the air line would pass over it. I think it’s going to work out well. Always learning.
Crazy how the photo makes it look all sorts of bendy.
Crazy how the photo makes it look all sorts of bendy.
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Mike- the Kipp handles are great! I keep finding uses for them.
Material rack is finished. It’s always cool when a project turns out the way i wanted. Very happy with the whole thing. Power coat was worth the expense.
Added the blow gun to the bandsaw. Considering this finished. Very happy with how it turned out.
Material rack is finished. It’s always cool when a project turns out the way i wanted. Very happy with the whole thing. Power coat was worth the expense.
Added the blow gun to the bandsaw. Considering this finished. Very happy with how it turned out.
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Put this guy together. Belt stuff is from a HF item. eBay for the conversion parts. Works well in tight spots.
I left the lathe powered up from the temporary setup while I wait for supplies to install it all. Enough tooling arrived to take a cut on some 7/8 4140 I had on hand. I also have a 7/8 2J collet. The rigidity and amount of raw power this lathe has can not be understated. This is my first chips on the lathe:
Went through half a bottle of simple green wiping it down. Still need to do the pedestals below the coolant trays. This is about as good as it’s going to look without a partial tear down and painting. I don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze to do that at this point. It’s a working machine. The ways are in amazingly good shape. Especially for having been a shipyard machine it’s whole life. A testament to how we built these Pacemakers are.
I’ve been using these surprisingly powerful magnetic hooks to hold often used tools near the point of use. This one kinda takes the cake. That spanner is about 2’ long and 3/8 or 1/2 thick.
I ordered some shop built machinery skates and a pair of rigging bars so I can move the lathe a little. It’s not quite in its forever home and I’ve already used the pipe one time more tha I would have liked on this machine. Worked great on the mill. Not so much on the lathe.
I left the lathe powered up from the temporary setup while I wait for supplies to install it all. Enough tooling arrived to take a cut on some 7/8 4140 I had on hand. I also have a 7/8 2J collet. The rigidity and amount of raw power this lathe has can not be understated. This is my first chips on the lathe:
Went through half a bottle of simple green wiping it down. Still need to do the pedestals below the coolant trays. This is about as good as it’s going to look without a partial tear down and painting. I don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze to do that at this point. It’s a working machine. The ways are in amazingly good shape. Especially for having been a shipyard machine it’s whole life. A testament to how we built these Pacemakers are.
I’ve been using these surprisingly powerful magnetic hooks to hold often used tools near the point of use. This one kinda takes the cake. That spanner is about 2’ long and 3/8 or 1/2 thick.
I ordered some shop built machinery skates and a pair of rigging bars so I can move the lathe a little. It’s not quite in its forever home and I’ve already used the pipe one time more tha I would have liked on this machine. Worked great on the mill. Not so much on the lathe.
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That is a great looking machine. My feeling has always been that I like the patina these tools have earned over the years. I’ve got a bit of mileage on me as well. �� I appreciate those folks that have to make them look better than when they came out of the factory. Cleaned up yes but not completely repainted. I just want them to work the way they should.
Ron
Ron
Ron - I agree. The patina on this one definitely shows its time on the pond and that it has done a lot of work over the years. It's looking a lot better now that I've cleaned it up a little. Deep down I'd love to see everything polished up and a fresh paint job but that won't make it a better machine. Thanks for following along and commenting!
I got tired of knocking the lathe’s 2J collets over in the drawer. By now you all know what’s next. I made a tooling rack for the 2J’s I had on hand. Then I decided to hit the faces with the buffer to clean them up a little.
Then I found a set of 2J’s that was what I’m looking for. 1/4 - 1” in 32nds with a couple missing and a few over 1”.
They look to be in great shape. Updated the tooling racks this morning. I know I left out 31/32. I don’t see me needing it and they are about $90 each new from Hardinge.
These are the tallest I’ve made thus far. Stacked the 1/2 tall spacers to get them together. Ended up ordering more spacers and fasteners. I think the middle will go down on the bottom. At some point I’ll make these all out of acrylic. I like using them for a while in mdf to check the design prior to using acrylic.
Then I found a set of 2J’s that was what I’m looking for. 1/4 - 1” in 32nds with a couple missing and a few over 1”.
They look to be in great shape. Updated the tooling racks this morning. I know I left out 31/32. I don’t see me needing it and they are about $90 each new from Hardinge.
These are the tallest I’ve made thus far. Stacked the 1/2 tall spacers to get them together. Ended up ordering more spacers and fasteners. I think the middle will go down on the bottom. At some point I’ll make these all out of acrylic. I like using them for a while in mdf to check the design prior to using acrylic.
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racer-john
Well-known member
Nice racks, slodat.
I still have my 5C's in their plastic boxes, but i am going to make a wooden box to hold them along with the ring nuts, lever locker, square and hex blocks and hook wrench (when I get it).
I still have my 5C's in their plastic boxes, but i am going to make a wooden box to hold them along with the ring nuts, lever locker, square and hex blocks and hook wrench (when I get it).
Got the budget priced import 3 jaw chuck in the lathe. It will work for now.
Used some bar stock I got from the local recycler. Fifty cents a pound for material to turn into chips. I want to make pads for the leveling screws to sit into. Tried the insert parting tool. Got some good chips out of it.
First attempt turning between centers went well. This thing is fun!
Used some bar stock I got from the local recycler. Fifty cents a pound for material to turn into chips. I want to make pads for the leveling screws to sit into. Tried the insert parting tool. Got some good chips out of it.
First attempt turning between centers went well. This thing is fun!
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Moving the new lathe shined a bright light on my need for better rigging equipment. For starters my Northern Tool bar was not getting it done when we were setting the machine in place. A dealer I used years ago had a very effective machinery rigging bar and I’ve looked for one for a long time. Several threads on PM really helped me find that sort of purpose built bar. Last week, at the recommendation of info I found there, I ordered two riggers nose bars from Eastern Rigging Supply- a flare toe 66” and a straight toe 72”. They arrived today. They both make easy work of nudging the lathe around and lifting it to place a bar or shim under it. These were bit cheap, especially when you include the freight cost. They are well worth it to me.
I have three machines that weigh over 2 tons, two of which are closer to 3 tons. This is the weight class of machines I’m enjoying having in the shop. I will add more posts when the other bits of rigging equipment arrive.
Some photos for those who may wonder. The blue bars are from Eastern Rigging Supply, the black bar is from Northern Tool.
I have three machines that weigh over 2 tons, two of which are closer to 3 tons. This is the weight class of machines I’m enjoying having in the shop. I will add more posts when the other bits of rigging equipment arrive.
Some photos for those who may wonder. The blue bars are from Eastern Rigging Supply, the black bar is from Northern Tool.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You definitely will not be sorry you acquired those.
Thinking I’ll make a separate machinery rigging post at some point. I got this set of shop made machine skates off a guy on eBay. Very well done and I couldn’t make them for much less than he charges.
We knew my light/medium duty come along would ultimately fail when we were using it to move the lathe on the pipe. I found a high quality 3ton American made puller that’s on the way.
I feel a lot better equipped to reposition the lathe and other equipment I hope to add to the shop in the future.
Three phase panel stuff has arrived. That’s up next. Then move and level the lathe so I can assess it’s condition.
We knew my light/medium duty come along would ultimately fail when we were using it to move the lathe on the pipe. I found a high quality 3ton American made puller that’s on the way.
I feel a lot better equipped to reposition the lathe and other equipment I hope to add to the shop in the future.
Three phase panel stuff has arrived. That’s up next. Then move and level the lathe so I can assess it’s condition.
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macgyver37
Well-known member
I had missed this thread until yesterday, just made it through. Very nice work.
I have a Komo VR805 cnc router that I do job shop work on, it is my main money maker. I have been considering a laser and see that you have the Boss which I had looked at a little last year. So, have you been happy with it? Are there any quirks or unexpected expenses with it? I do alot of large work and really like the idea of the large work envelope.
How does it handle the thicker acrylic? Does it have enough power?
Thanks,
Jason
Oh, I also have a Milltronics cnc mill that may get retrofitted, so once I do some more homework on the Acorn control I may have some questions for you...
I have a Komo VR805 cnc router that I do job shop work on, it is my main money maker. I have been considering a laser and see that you have the Boss which I had looked at a little last year. So, have you been happy with it? Are there any quirks or unexpected expenses with it? I do alot of large work and really like the idea of the large work envelope.
How does it handle the thicker acrylic? Does it have enough power?
Thanks,
Jason
Oh, I also have a Milltronics cnc mill that may get retrofitted, so once I do some more homework on the Acorn control I may have some questions for you...
Jason - thank you for taking the time to read my thread and comment. I have been happy with my Boss laser. I have two somewhat local friends with the same laser and they have also been really happy with it. One of them runs production type schedules daily and it has been great. Acrylic is where a laser truly shines. When you get into thicker materials with a laser you will have an angle to the cut. It's just part of it. I use a 2" lens which is good for general purpose. I don't typically cut thicker than 1/4" acrylic on the laser. Thicker stuff gets machined on the CNC router.
On the Milltronics, if the original DC servos are in good shape, Centroid's Allin1DC is a great option. Especially if it has an umbrella tool changer. Updating the controls gives these old machines a second life. Feel free to ask any questions I might be able to answer. I'm happy to share what I've learned.
macgyver37
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply. I keep getting distracted by other machine tools, just brought a Mori Seiki SL4 cnc lathe in and the Milltronics came with it. If I don't focus, I'll never save up for the laser.
I had been around a couple Epilogs at the university I worked at, but the Boss seems to be a better fit for me with the larger size and price is better than Epilog.
The mill is a knee mill, no tool changer. I did look into it quite a bit more after I posted and I am not honestly sure if this mill warrants the investment. I have not given it a fair shake yet to see if the original control will work without much effort, so that is probably the smart thing to do first. This one was only $200, so hard to pass up.
I really want a 'real' mill with toolchanger, enclosure and chip auger. Just have to be patient. I may also need one with a larger capacity if an idea I have works.
Thanks
Jason
I had been around a couple Epilogs at the university I worked at, but the Boss seems to be a better fit for me with the larger size and price is better than Epilog.
The mill is a knee mill, no tool changer. I did look into it quite a bit more after I posted and I am not honestly sure if this mill warrants the investment. I have not given it a fair shake yet to see if the original control will work without much effort, so that is probably the smart thing to do first. This one was only $200, so hard to pass up.
I really want a 'real' mill with toolchanger, enclosure and chip auger. Just have to be patient. I may also need one with a larger capacity if an idea I have works.
Thanks
Jason
Working on the rotary phase converter installation. The RPC enclosure, output disconnect switch and motor mount are all mounted. Some of the conduit is done.. well.. the output side just has to go through the wall and around some obstacles.
The motor is going on the other side of the wall from the panels. Should help isolate the idler’s noise. It’s going up about 7’ off the floor. I didn’t want to give up the storage spot for the 6’ ladder and hand truck. The idler motor sits on rubber isolators. They are sold for air conditioning outdoor units. The idler is not supposed to be rigidly mounted.
Should work out well. The RPC will never be running when I’m using the booth.
The motor is going on the other side of the wall from the panels. Should help isolate the idler’s noise. It’s going up about 7’ off the floor. I didn’t want to give up the storage spot for the 6’ ladder and hand truck. The idler motor sits on rubber isolators. They are sold for air conditioning outdoor units. The idler is not supposed to be rigidly mounted.
Should work out well. The RPC will never be running when I’m using the booth.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
it's great to have good strong friends to help, but if they are not always available I used this Jet lift that worked great especially since it had a nice piece of steel made to sit on the forks and act like a table if I needed one too.
I found on Craigslist for about a 1/3 of what it costs new and sold it for about the same price 5 years later and still wish I owned it even if it has to sit outside under a tarp until I build my woodshop. I also had a hand crank lift that should have been used for just cabinets and light stuff, but i probably had it lift 900 pound items off my little trailer several times (sorry don't have a picture handy of that one).
did you change out the plug on your Cadet Hot ones? I went to buy a plug for the used one i just found and couldn't find one at HD so wondering if I need to buy both male and female to use my heater?
keep up the good work and stay warm!!
I found on Craigslist for about a 1/3 of what it costs new and sold it for about the same price 5 years later and still wish I owned it even if it has to sit outside under a tarp until I build my woodshop. I also had a hand crank lift that should have been used for just cabinets and light stuff, but i probably had it lift 900 pound items off my little trailer several times (sorry don't have a picture handy of that one).
did you change out the plug on your Cadet Hot ones? I went to buy a plug for the used one i just found and couldn't find one at HD so wondering if I need to buy both male and female to use my heater?
keep up the good work and stay warm!!
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I use NEMA 6-20 straight blade for the 4kw heaters (and all 20a 240v stuff) and NEMA L6-30 twist lock for the 5kw heaters and 30a 240v stuff.
I buy this stuff on eBay for a fraction of the retail price. I keep a few of the ones I use on hand and buy them for next to nothing compared to what you’d pay in a store or at a electrical distributor.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
thank you and I sent you a PM.
I'm having some issues finding a manual and wondering if you've ever taken one of these Cadet Hot ones apart to clean it cause mine could use a good cleaning before I plug it in?
stay warm!!
I'm having some issues finding a manual and wondering if you've ever taken one of these Cadet Hot ones apart to clean it cause mine could use a good cleaning before I plug it in?
stay warm!!
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jar944
Well-known member
I have a serious case of lathe envy..
Also happy to see that a 20hp converter was able to start that 15hp motor. I just picked up a 20hp rpc myself and guess I'm all set for life seeing that worked out.
Also happy to see that a 20hp converter was able to start that 15hp motor. I just picked up a 20hp rpc myself and guess I'm all set for life seeing that worked out.
I'm really excited about the lathe. Getting closer to having it powered up.
I've been following along and saw your RPC. The trick with my setup is the lathe is starting unloaded. Couple points that I've learned in the process of getting mine installed. The RPC can't start the idler motor if there is any current flow on the three phase side. Only after the idler is running can there be current flow on the three phase side. I installed a disconnect switch on the output side of the converter. If I add a 3 phase load that has a control power transformer or something that would cause this issue, I can just open the disconnect prior to startup and close once it's up and running. I think I paid about $50 for it new on ebay. And, I would install a proper 3 phase panel with a main breaker.
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macgyver37
Well-known member
In my previous shop I had to use a phase converter. I found that I could run a 5 hp machine on my 2 hp converter if I turned on the other 2 machines that were on the converter first. Letting the other 2 idle upped my capacity enough to run the bigger machine. Not ideal, but it worked. Something to remember in the future if you guys run into that problem.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Tim Allen (and I) are proud of you. WELL DONE!!!
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Nice job Steven, you shouldn’t barely hear the hum over your machines. Mine is on isolators as well and there’s no vibe at all. What’s the rational behind running the phase converter into an intermediate service panel? When I installed my RPC I just wired it into the circuit leading to both machines. Even though I’ve had it this way for years I’m now wondering if the way I did it isn’t the best way. My machines are essentially unfused after the RPC.
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt