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Electric Lift Table Project

D45

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I work on portable generators, mowers and snowblowers

I picked up this old lift table

Guy said the motor smoked and stopped working

I'm going to degrease the entire thing first

The wiring is a mess and the ground on the wall outlet plug is missing

I need to decide whether to see if the 1/3 hp Dayton engine is able to be rebuilt or if I should source a replacement motor

Comments?
 

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D45

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Here's the 115v Dayton motor

5K339AA

1/3 HP
 

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D45

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This motor says 115/230volt

So I assume it's just dependent on how it's wired

I only have intentions of using a standard wall outlet for power, so would this mean a replacement motor would be cheaper?

I need to remove the motor and see how it's attached and mounted
 

mike93lx

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That looks super useful.

A single voltage motor may be a little cheaper, but make sure you match up the rpm and mount. Yes, changing voltage is just done with wiring and a plug.

If you have a local motor repair shop, they might have a replacement or can rewind it. May also get lucky and it will start up. Sometimes motors can have a little smoke left in the when some is let out
 
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930dreamer

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This motor says 115/230volt

So I assume it's just dependent on how it's wired

I only have intentions of using a standard wall outlet for power, so would this mean a replacement motor would be cheaper?

I need to remove the motor and see how it's attached and mounted
Most motors are dual voltage rated/ capable.
 
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D45

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I am going to degrease and clean the entire thing first, it will make working on it much easier and cleaner

It's really dirty!

I wonder how the motor shaft looks, will it be a simple gear driven assembly direct to the shaft?
 

BigNuge

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I am going to degrease and clean the entire thing first, it will make working on it much easier and cleaner

It's really dirty!

I wonder how the motor shaft looks, will it be a simple gear driven assembly direct to the shaft?
I have a hydraulic lift table (similar dimensions w/500# rating). It is a godsend when working on generators/snowblowers and whatnot. There is nothing like having the whole machine at a comfortable working height!

IMG_7139.jpeg
 
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D45

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I wonder about the 1/3hp motor and if a 1/2hp would be any better and last longer?

Seems like 1/2hp motors are nearly the same price

I don't want to damage any of the gearing and mechanisms and I guess it doesn't need to be fast at all, slow and steady is probably better with this kind of lift
 
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D45

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I removed the platform

It was held on by a bolt, a quick release pin, and a neat grooved ring almost like a large diameter ring found on a key chain

It is belt driven, by two pulleys underneath

Currently cleaning all the thick caked on grease......that seemed to be too thick and too excessive. This likely could have led to the early demise of the motor since it might have worked too hard?

Anyway, the motor and platform are removed
 
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D45

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The motor is huge and very heavy, surprised it's only a 1/3 hp

If I were to also bet, I say it's not the original motor for this lift table
 
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D45

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The wiring on the motor was so hacked up and remnants of possibly the original wiring

I found a green ground wire that was cut and never connected

I'll get some pics up
 

isb cornbinder

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I built my lift table in 2002. It served double duty as a motorcycle service table and an adjustable height workshop table. My hydraulic table goes as low as 5 inches as tops out at about 40 inches.
I used two hydraulic cylinders to slow the rise speed. One cylinder would have been strong enough. The remote hydraulic unit has a quick disconnect and can be rolled away for a 12 volt booster. TheHydraulic power unit has a built on charger.
 

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D45

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Who knows about electric motors

Here's what I removed

Dual voltage and amps and hp rating is all I know

What does capacitor start motor mean?
 

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D45

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Will a dedicated 110v/115v electric motor work just as good?

I don't understand why I would need a dual voltage 115/230 motor if I plan on using a standard wall outlet in my garage
 
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D45

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Interesting the shaft is Keyed and the pulley uses an Allen to secure itself to the key

Hopefully a new belt isn't hard to find. The pulley looks to need a V groove belt and the belt I took off is flat with 3 ribs

The ON OFF switch is archaic
 

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D45

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The ground on the motor wasn't attached and the 3 prong cord was missing the ground

I reattached the motor ground wire and found and old 3 prong cord I saved

Temporarily wired it up and plugged it in. Hit the switch and the motor hummed

I grabbed the shafted and turned it by hand and the motor turned on. Was smooth and no concerning noises

I then looked more closely at the motor and it does state Capacitor Start Motor

On the side of the motor are two wires with connection tabs. There's a dirt outline on the motor, where I believe a Capacitor should be mounted and wired in. Right or no?

I'm thinking, and hoping, that if I can find a Capacitor the motor should turn on and start rotating by itself?

Any help sourcing the right one?
 

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D45

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The motor shaft is 2-3/4" long

The shaft is 5/8"

The pulley looks old but it cleaned up very well
 

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D45

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Is this area and wires for the capacitor
 

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D45

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Any help with the capacitor?

60hz?

Two tab?

Any will work or do I need something specific?
 

LXCam

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Since it’s a Dayton you can reach out to the Grainger help line and they’ll hook you up with the right capacitor and hopefully a replacement cover.
 
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Pinemarten

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I have a different Dayton motor for my lathe. That is where the capacitor mounts on mine.
The outline of the cover looks like mine as well.

I think Grainger should be able to help you out.
 
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D45

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I can't even find a parts diagram or wiring diagram for this motor

Dayton 5K339AA
 

cannuck

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I can't even find a parts diagram or wiring diagram for this motor

Dayton 5K339AA
Wiring diagram (key) for the motor is on the data plate you have shown. You need the wiring diagram for the lift to verify how the reversing switch is to be wired.
 
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D45

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What guage replacement 3 wire appliance cord will suffice?

10 AWG?
12 AWG?
14 AWG?
 

larry4406

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I think I have a Dayton motor at home with a start capacitor. I will check and report back regarding capacitor and motor specs.
 
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D45

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Google say

You can measure capacitor through MFD ratings. An MFD or micro-Farad is a technical terminology used to describe the level of capacity in a capacitor. Therefore, the higher the MFD ratings of a capacitor, the more electrical current your capacitor can store.

285 MFD Capacitor(238 MFD, 125V Start Capacitor & 20 MFD, 240V Run Capacitor)

Start Capacitor 233 to 280MFD, 110V AC, Run Capacitor

125V Start Capacitor, 20 MFD, 240V Run Capacitor), 285 MFD Capacitor(238 MFD)

Alot of options........

So since I plan on operating the motor at 110v-115v, do I need a two tab *** MFD start Capacitor?

A run capacitor shouldn't be needed for this motor......right?

I saw one 1/3hp unit had a 519 MFD Capacitor
 
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