Electric Lift Table Project

[D45]

The cover arrived and fit well

I'll get some pics up soon

Hopefully I'll get the motor mounted this week and find a V belt to connect both pulleys

Then will focus on wiring the motor to the switch, wiring the switch to the power cord, and fabbing a cover for the drum switch

Should the motor be grounded to the lift frame?

 

[D45]

Capacitor did snap firmly into the cover

I used some cardboard to prevent the Capacitor from sagging any inside the cover

I also added a 90° 1/2" fitting to run the wires from the switch inside the flexible metal jacket

 

[D45]

Does the motor have to be grounded to the lift frame?

Or is running the power cord ground to the motor sufficient?

 

[D45]

Handy Lift (Janco) wants $27.41 for the belt plus shipping

I'm hoping to find it locally for substantially cheaper

On the invoice they list it as:
Gates V-Belt 11350

 

[Jagmandave]

What about just using SO cord? instead of armored? Is the cord vulnerable to getting caught in the "works"

 

[D45]

I think my local independent true value has a good selection of small pulley v belts

I'll stop there on Saturday

 

[D45]

They also want $45 plus shipping for the parts tray that sits on top of the vertical frame

I'm going to buy a larger magnetic parts tray for $15 shipped

 

[D45]

The motor definitely isn't original

Two of the four mounting holes don't line up

I'll mark and drill two more holes so the motor is properly secured with all four mounting bolts

 

[D45]

Mounted the motor today after modifying some of the mounting holes

I removed the second pulley, that is mounted to the vertical threaded lifting post, to clean and inspect

Blows my mind that the PO was running a flat ribbed belt with two V groove pulleys

I also adjusted the electrical fitting at the motor to run horizontal rather than vertical

 

[The Cobbler]

a true , in GJ fashion revival !

 

[D45]

Goal this week:

-Find a proper V groove belt

-Reinstall both pulleys

-Buy and install flexible metal conduit

 

[bpwoodworking]

Really cool project!

Personally, I have not seen MC used in a continuous flex situation. On a machine where the conduit will flex all the time and is subject to possible pinch situations I have used type A liquid tight. It keeps out dust and is heavy enough to be fairly crush resistant, probably more-so than metal which is likely to cut through the wire if its crushed.

I've used the spiral type also flexible conduit but it tends to split along the spiral when flexed continuously so I prefer the type A style. It's nylon lined PVC.

 

[D45]

Thanks, it's a fun project so far and much cheaper than buying one new for $1,500 + (which I would never do)

The flexible metal conduit will not be moving or in motion with the lift table

It's merely running from the motor to to F/R/S switch that will be mounted near the top of the vertical post

I'm actually going to see if I can use rigid conduit and hard pipe the electrical wiring

 

[D45]

I went alittle on the heavy duty side for the power cord and will be using a 12/3

However, what size wire should I run between the motor and the F/R switch........14G or 12G stranded?

Wire length will be about 4 feet

 

[D45]

From what I have read, as a general guideline, you can typically fit around 6 to 7 12 AWG wires with THHN insulation in a 1/2 inch conduit

I will need to run a toal of 5 wires from the motor to the switch

I think 12G might be better than 14G, just a guess so

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

@D45 - There was a similar lift table at a Rental store I worked at 25+ years ago. Is there any manufacturer tags on the actual lift? I like the design as it sits low to the floor.

Cheers

Jim

 

[mike93lx]

I went alittle on the heavy duty side for the power cord and will be using a 12/3

However, what size wire should I run between the motor and the F/R switch........14G or 12G stranded?

Wire length will be about 4 feet

14 is more than enough

 

[D45]

@D45 - There was a similar lift table at a Rental store I worked at 25+ years ago. Is there any manufacturer tags on the actual lift? I like the design as it sits low to the floor.

Cheers

Jim

Yes its a Handy Multi Lift by Jandy

Even has the serial number

 

[bpwoodworking]

I wouldn’t run rigid conduit to a motor. Personally I still think liquid tight conduit is most appropriate.

 

[D45]

Suggestions taken, picked up some 1/2" liquid tite and fittings

I wish I could have found it sold locally, by the foot......had to buy a 25' roll and 8 fittings for $22 shipped on Amazon

 

[D45]

Time to get some stranded 14G today

 

[bpwoodworking]

That’s a great price! I usually buy on McMaster, nice thing being that they will do small quantities but the prices can sometimes be high.

 

[D45]

I opted for stranded 12G, bought four different colors and 8 feet of each (probably only need 4 feet)

Blown away it's so expensive!

0.85 cents a foot and I need to run 4 wires, oh well

 

[D45]

I need to add another wire for the drum switch ground

I initially only bought 4 lengths of wire, should have been 5

 

[D45]

New leveling feet installed with a rubber grip base, rather than the sliding plastic feet

 

[D45]

Trying to figure out belt lengths today

Definitely a 1/2" wide v-groove

The flat ribbed belt that the PO used wasn't proper for the pulleys

22, 23, 24, and 25

24" looks the best but it also has a tad too much slack........I'll run it and see

 

[D45]

This belt fit the best and without having the ability to adjust the tension before or after install, this is the only length I was able to fit on both pulleys

 

[D45]

It's all done.......raises and lowers really good and smooth!!

It's very quiet overall, much better than I ever expected

Total cost so far, including the initial purchase is around $300

I just need to find a cover for the Furnas drum switch

 

[D45]

It's all back together and working

Hope this link works

 

[D45]

Would Kydex be a good material for the drum switch cover? I've looked alot and can't find a replacement

Kydex seems to be easy to work with and mold when heated up and retains it's form when cooled

 

[Wiz02]

Great restoration, thanks for the pics and kudos to you for listening to the advice that you received.

 

[D45]

The switch cover is basically would jave Two sides, two 90° bend and the top

The switch has two threaded holes to secure the cover

 

[D45]

I just picked up a nice 1999 Generac 19hp 10,000W generator for $120

Needs typical work and maintenance

Going to test out the lift table this weekend

 

[Motorman55]

Interesting the shaft is Keyed and the pulley uses an Allen to secure itself to the key

Hopefully a new belt isn't hard to find. The pulley looks to need a V groove belt and the belt I took off is flat with 3 ribs

The ON OFF switch is archaic

The allen set screw keeps the pulley from walkingin/out on the shaft.

 

[Firebrick43]

Would Kydex be a good material for the drum switch cover? I've looked alot and can't find a replacement

Kydex seems to be easy to work with and mold when heated up and retains it's form when cooled

I would say so if you buy the correct thickness. Some of it for holsters is very thin. If you get some that is .093 or .125” thick I would think it would be excellent to make a cover.

 

[D45]

There's a small groove in the switch (near the lever) that I need to measure, to see what thickness of kydex or sheet metal will fit in to the area

I think there is a threaded hole between the two ground screws for the cover to be mounted or it could be for a third grounding screw

 

[D45]

I could likely use that center threaded hole and use a threaded rod with a nut, to secure the rod to the switch

then mount the cover using the treaded rod with another nut......like a stem

 

[D45]

Going to look for a material in this thickness for the switch cover

 

[mike93lx]

1/8" hdpe could be a good option

 

[nadogail]

May you enjoy your lift table in good health for many years.