I have a Craftsman bench vise Model 391-5180. I've had it for 35+ years. It spent the last 10 or so in storage. It was used regularly prior to that. I was getting ready to remount it and put it to use but the swivel base is stuck- frozen? I can barely move the locking nut and when I do manage to rotate about 180 deg. worth, nothing frees up. I removed the center nut and the moving rectangular slide bar and see little if any corrosion there. Could something be cross threaded? I've been soaking with Kroil for about 8 hrs. so far. Can any one steer me in the right direction. If I can't free it up I'll just use it as a fixed vise.
Everything you need to know about bench vises...
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
The center bolt is threaded but also has a smooth area for the baseplate to rotate on. However, I've noticed on mine that you can over-tighten the center and it will prevent the vise from rotating. I had to put a washer on mine to get proper spacing.
The lockdown handle just uses those round-head square-neck bolts. If you are trying to loosen it and you see the bolt spinning from the underside it probably stripped the neck. You'll have to soak it good in oil and figure some way to keep it from spinning or drill it out worst case.
The lockdown handle just uses those round-head square-neck bolts. If you are trying to loosen it and you see the bolt spinning from the underside it probably stripped the neck. You'll have to soak it good in oil and figure some way to keep it from spinning or drill it out worst case.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
If you have 180 on the swivel lock, then get some penetrating into it and simply work it back and forth the 180 till it starts to free a bit, then work it off. The threads are probably rusty and limiting motion. Once you get it going it should get easier.
Wangstang
Well-known member
I think there are several of us who'd like to hear some input over in this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211598
Wes
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211598
Wes
I mounted it and can rotate the base a little. I tried using vise grips to hold the round head bolt head while turning the the lock lever-no luck. I'm not dedicated enough to drill out the bolt. The square shoulder under the round head appears to be partially stripped or rounded off. The threads up inside the lock collar will have to be really freed up to allow me to unscrew the bolt and replace it.
Provincial
Well-known member
Try placing the top surface of the lock "nut" on a solid flat steel surface (like an anvil) and hit the head of the carriage bolt with a hammer a few times. This sometimes shakes loose the rust in the threads enough for penetrating oil to reach the bound up parts. You need to keep the vise inverted when you soak the threads so that gravity helps get the oil all the way down to the blind end.
I would try this first, and if it didn't work, either drill out the head off the carriage bolt or cut the head down with a 4-1/2" grinder with a thin wheel. Once you get the curved head off (you don't need to remove the square part of the shank) you can hold the shank of the bolt with a vise and start working the threads loose.
I would try this first, and if it didn't work, either drill out the head off the carriage bolt or cut the head down with a 4-1/2" grinder with a thin wheel. Once you get the curved head off (you don't need to remove the square part of the shank) you can hold the shank of the bolt with a vise and start working the threads loose.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
OK if the rotation is due to the carriage bold square being stripped, then dis mount the vise from the bench, and grip the head of the bolt with a pair of vise grips and go at it.
If the lock collar is stuck, tap on its head every so often while you work it with penetrating oil.
If after a day or so of nursing it. then get a 4-1/2" min grinder or a die grinder in there and grind the head off the carriage bolt.
Once out you can lock onto the lock collar in (another) vise and work at the stub with vise grips and penetrating oil and even a bit of heat on the bolt shank.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Sorry Wes, I have Zero experience with the import Palmgrens. (I do have 5 of the US made vises of one sort or another, plus a few rebrands)
earth_grinder
Well-known member
Does anyone have a source for the pins that retain the spindle nut in a Wilton C2 vise? When I got mine, someone had installed split pins and they were not tight. The hole is larger than 1/4" but too small for a 5/16" pin.
Thanks, everyone! Two days+ a few hrs. of Kroil soak, several solid hammer wacks and a really tight vise grip and it is free. Cleaning out the quick release collar and searching the bolt bin for another un-buggered carriage bolt. No rust any where else to speak of.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
davidmackv
New member
I have a Hollands if you would like to use a photo of it for your reference page.
I am restoring it soon. So it will look better later. When I redo it, the slide shouldn't be painted should it?
David
I am restoring it soon. So it will look better later. When I redo it, the slide shouldn't be painted should it?
David
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Typically the slide and the handles are not painted. With some vises, painting the slide can make it bind..
Unknown brand, but certain it's Chinesium. Use the snot out of it till it breaks, then send to the scrapper.
Keep looking at garage/estate sales and CL until you find a bona-fide USA vise for your long-term keeper.
Hello,
I was wondering if anyone could give me any information about this vise I picked up at a flea market today.
All the information I can find says that Littlestown vises were made in Littlestown PA, and all the pictures I could find of them said Littlestown PA, but this one says New York NY.
I saw one listed on eBay that said it was made in New York NY, but the picture they posted said Littlestown PA. I don't feel it's appropriate to link to it, but if you do a search for "Antique Vintage Littlestown Vise Anvil No. 25" on eBay, it's the first one that comes up.
I picked it up for $27. It appears to be 100% original, and in perfect working order. I was shocked to see the jaws lined up perfectly and there was no play at all. As it is it's very usable, but I plan on restoring it.
Thank you for any input.
Shane
Here's a link to a high res pic of it ... http://imageshack.com/a/img24/2237/46sg.jpg
I was wondering if anyone could give me any information about this vise I picked up at a flea market today.
All the information I can find says that Littlestown vises were made in Littlestown PA, and all the pictures I could find of them said Littlestown PA, but this one says New York NY.
I saw one listed on eBay that said it was made in New York NY, but the picture they posted said Littlestown PA. I don't feel it's appropriate to link to it, but if you do a search for "Antique Vintage Littlestown Vise Anvil No. 25" on eBay, it's the first one that comes up.
I picked it up for $27. It appears to be 100% original, and in perfect working order. I was shocked to see the jaws lined up perfectly and there was no play at all. As it is it's very usable, but I plan on restoring it.
Thank you for any input.
Shane
Here's a link to a high res pic of it ... http://imageshack.com/a/img24/2237/46sg.jpg
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
It's a homeowners level vise, but perfectly fine for light duty use if not abused. it will NOT take any pounding or even pressing, so don't plan on that at all! It's a second pair of hands no more. a common break point on those is where the slide is pressed/cast into the dynamic jaw itself.
Definitely post pics of it's transformation in the main Vices thread, and Welcome to GJ!
Definitely post pics of it's transformation in the main Vices thread, and Welcome to GJ!
I don't know if this would hold true on a C2 but on occasion, I take 1/4 steel rod, cut it to 1". Then I take 2, 9" or so vise grips and clamp down hard on each end. Then I force them to turn against each other. Forcing the teeth scars and actually raises the surface just enough for a tight fit. Try it. Report to me in the morning. LOL!!
earth_grinder
Well-known member
Sounds like it is worth a try.
Hi Outlaw,
Thanks for replying so quickly. After reading your post, I checked for cracks where the slider and jaw meet and I couldn't see anything. It almost looks like someone bought this when it was new, sat it on their work bench and barely used it. It's in excellent condition.
It should be a fun beginners restoration project.
I'll make sure I post some pics in the main thread.
Thanks!
Shane
thrifty bill
Well-known member
Personally, I like the patina it has now. It has taken decades for that patina to develop.
I would lube it and use it!
I would lube it and use it!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The first one was born in the far east. Even if it was whole I'd pass, Heck they even split the tail of the slide...
I believe that monster has been posted before. If so it's price is why it's still for sale...
I believe that monster has been posted before. If so it's price is why it's still for sale...
I passed up a new Wilton C-0 for $300 last night on Ebay because the seller had a low feedback score. It didn't sell. Looking at sold listings it appears used C-0's go for $250-$300. Are the older ones considered more valuable than brand new?
bigcaddy
Well-known member
They command a higher price if they are in good shape. Anything that was designed to be beaten on for a living, and survives in good shape, will bring a premium to vise collectors. My C1 cost me 100.00 is a 1980s but ive had them as early as 1960s. A very clean and complete one from the 50's can shoot past 400.00 easily.
It all depends who's looking to buy it and what they are willing to pay for their collection. 300.00 isn't a terrible price, if you have to have a combo vise. You could easily pick up a "weekend project" wilton machinist vise for less then that and it would have solid castings unlike the hollow C series vises. The cavities that house the pipe jaws really lighten up the vise overall and make the jaw towers a bit thin on the sides. The machinist vises are built for abuse.
Thanks, I didn't realize the C series were hollow. And no I'm not looking specifically for a C0, it just seemed like a good price and I thought I could always get my money back if in fact they hold their value like the older ones. As for picking up a used Wilton, I never seem to be at the right place at the right time.
Aah, I figured as much with the hollow anvil area and falling apart handle..the jaws and screw do look pretty beefy, and It sure looks old and beat up. When did they start importing cheap far-east vise?
Haha, yeah they are asking waay too much, thing's not gold plated.
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NeilG
New member
I found this site because I was looking to buy another vise after this happened today. I know the rule is that if you break a vise it's most likely your fault, but I wasn't hammering on it or using a cheater. I was attempting to clamp something cylindrical and probably got it off-center too much, and I'm a big strong guy. It just went "tink!". This 4 1/4 Craftsman homeowner's model must be nearly 30 years old.
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EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Wow, must have been a flaw / crack already in the casting to break like that. Usually the handle will bend first before you do serious damage to something else. I have one like that but a 3-1/2" made in Japan and I've seriously abused it and it has survived like a champ.
At least now this is a good excuse to get a good old 50yr+ old vise that can handle some serious work.
Don't throw that one away. There are still plenty of good parts on there that can be salvaged for another vise! Post it in the vise parts swap thread.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Aah, I figured as much with the hollow anvil area and falling apart handle..the jaws and screw do look pretty beefy, and It sure looks old and beat up. When did they start importing cheap far-east vise?
Haha, yeah they are asking waay too much, thing's not gold plated.
Probably about the late sixties from Taiwan and other non- Chicom Asian countries. Some post war stuff from Japan early on, but not in those configurations of Vise Shaped Objects; those post war tools from Japan were generally smaller and vises would generally have been clamp on models, and by the late sixties the quality was way up from Japan.
NeilG
New member
Wow, must have been a flaw / crack already in the casting to break like that. Usually the handle will bend first before you do serious damage to something else. I have one like that but a 3-1/2" made in Japan and I've seriously abused it and it has survived like a champ.
At least now this is a good excuse to get a good old 50yr+ old vise that can handle some serious work.
Don't throw that one away. There are still plenty of good parts on there that can be salvaged for another vise! Post it in the vise parts swap thread.
I think I already found one:
]
They're asking $45. Sound about right? Also, would you point me towards the vise parts swap thread? I would give the parts away if someone pays for shipping. Thanks.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
No that is an exposed screw home owners vise and while older/Vintage your craftsman was a better vise. WAY overpriced by at least 3X IMO. (I've paid 5 or less for vises like that...)
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
NeilG
New member
Ah, thanks, I re-read the beginning of this thread describing the attributes of quality vises and see it now.
bullofthenorthwood
New member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2013
- Messages
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I am a new member. This information you have put together is priceless. I just bought my 1st real vise. It is a Reed 106 R. When i get it home i would like to send some pictures. I also have found a new passion. I believe i will enjoy restoring old vises. Thank You once again for having this great site for like minded folks as myself. 
Rick Davies
Rick Davies
Hop2it
Well-known member
earth_grinder
Well-known member
I apologize if this was ask before, but I was wondering why the base ring mounting holes of my Wilton C-2 are not symmetrical. Is the base to be mounted in a certain position relative to the body of the vise?
wrenchguy
Well-known member
yes, its like that so u can have the vertical plane of the static jaw beyond the edge of the bench while keeping the mount bolts as far back on the bench as possible.
earth_grinder
Well-known member
My vise came from the place I retired from. I bet nobody there knew that. Probably just put the vise on the workbench and drilled 4 holes and mounted it not even noticing the un-symmetrical pattern. Thanks much for your explanation.