#FabSpace

[Growlertdi]

all of this is so above my head and out of my experience, but I am enjoying the detail you are going to in your posts. thanks! Looking forward to the end results!

 

[awdblazer]

subscribed this thing is awesome!!!!!!!!!!

 

[74cj5]

Looking good! I like the work with the sawsall. Probably a lot easier getting that through there than trying to get all the way around it with a cut off wheel

 

[lilscorpion]

Awesome work as usual Matt.

That is going to be an awesome build. Looks like you will have minimal up-travel, possibly only a couple to three inches. What kind of droop are you going to have? Around 8~ish or so?

Thanks Mike! Honestly I’m not totally sure where it will land. When we got it, the Jeep had 2 1/2” OME coils in it and poly 1 1/4 budget boost pucks (front only). They had ~6” of bump stop (silly) in it which resulted in 3 1/2 inches of up travel. The down travel with the short arms sucked so I didn’t even bother measuring it.

Total travel will be about 12” front and 14” rear. We want it low, rock rod low. With high-clearance 60’s, the TNT high-clearance belly pan, and 40’s It’ll do well on the trail and climb like a monster. It will feel very streetable and should stand out when I’m a crowd of other jeeps...of my vision comes to fruition.

I’m concerned about how the Dana 60 will fit up under the engine. Rumor has it the yolk can get into the oil pan with lower lifts. Also the trac-bar into the frame and/or radiator can also be an issue when the wheel base has been stretched forward. If I have to add bump stop to solve any if these things, I might as well run the bigger springs.

I have 2 sets of coils. The PO’s setup 2 1/2 - 3 3/4”
(With the budget boost) or 4 1/2 all springs. Once the Jeep can sit on all 4’s again, we’ll swap them in/out and see where we are. The up travel will either be 3 1/2” or 5 1/2”.

 

[lilscorpion]

Looking good! I like the work with the sawsall. Probably a lot easier getting that through there than trying to get all the way around it with a cut off wheel

Thank you. The sawzall is, and there’s less sparks, and I find it easier to get a cleaner final cut. It does vibrate like hell though.

 

[lilscorpion]

On with the stretch kit...

The only remaining piece of the original crossmember is what went through the frame rails. The new crossmember needs to be installed all the way forward air only about the forward half needs to be removed to make space for it. After making a few cuts with the sawzall, I was able to use the air hammer knock out a wedge big enough to accommodate.



By only removing as little as necessary, the new tube will fit nicely and firmly in the hole which will help keep things square as they’re assembled and then welded.



After rough cutting out the bulk of the material, I use a carbide burr and air grinder to match fit the opening to the bracket. Every time I use a burr I reflect back to my early twenties where I learned to match port intakes and cylinder heads. No matter what I’m doing with a burr, it’s easier and takes less time.



I work though one frame rail at a time until the tube fits just to the point where sliding it through doesn’t scratch the tube.



After fitting both sides, I use my level to see if the frame has moved after the hackery. 0.0 at rest but can influence it +/- .1 degree. Far more precise that was necessary but reaffirms the saying slower is faster.



All of this work to just get to the point where I can now solve the front bumper problem so I can hustle it down to the powder coater tomorrow morning.

This bumper was designed to cup the outer frame rails. Since the side plates make the frame wider by ~1/8” per side, the bumper will no longer fit on the frame once they’re welded in.



Fortunately when i spent the extra time removing the front crossmember I left as much of the frame intact as possible leaving me with the ability to trim down the plates a little and still have enough to weld to. I started by marking the interference dimensions of the bumper on the side plate adding a strong 5/16 extra to accommodate for the thickens of the weld.



I then cut to the line with the cutoff wheel and touch up the edges with the sanding disc.



This handles most of it but I’ll need to doctor the bumper a little since the new tube crossmember is so far forward.



Increasing the size of a half moon that was originally cut by a CNC isn’t exactly easy by hand but a few tricks and a little patience it’s totally doable. For me it helps to take a seat.



I start by finding an object somewhere in the shop to trace the new arc over the part. This time, the anti-seize jar is perfect. With the cutoff wheel in my dominant hand, and using my other hand to balance, I cut a dozen or so small slits towards the new line being very careful not to cut too far.




Looks like this when done. You might have to zoom in on the pic.



Then I use sweeping motions to clear out the little metal teeth again balancing my cutting hand with my free hand.



when done there’s only a little bevel left to be cleaned up with a sanding wheel.



I now switch a flapper disc into my 1/4” grinder and blend the bevel in to a square edge.



Enough room to accommodate the weld and clean enough most won’t likely notice it didn’t come out if the box this way.

 

[lilscorpion]

Now to see what I have to do to make the steering box work. I pulled the steering box out of the box it. Billet cap is cool.



Immediately I notice the first major problem - it’s not a 4 bolt box. PSC sent me the wrong one even after triple confirming with the sales guy. Since I need the bumper done ASAP, I’ll have to make it work.



When comparing the steering box to the side plate, the 3 ears on the box are different than the 4 bolt plate from TNT. I swore the 3 bolt and 4 bolt boxes were identical other than the additional (4th) tab. Ok, fast fix is to completely remove the one that doesn't line up. All they're really for is to help get the box located on the frame anyway. Now I’m totally off script. By the time I’m finished, I could have made my own side-plates all together.





The two lower holes in the side plates are for sleeves that go through the bottom of the frame. The sleeves will only be partially in the frame so notches need to be cut toward the bottom to make room.



After cutting the bulk of the material away with the cutoff wheel, a little cleanup with the carbide burr allows them to slide in easily but with a snug fit.



Now to get the box hung and install the bumper so I can see what modifications I’ll need to make. The rear break on the winch plate runs into the box before the bumper bolts line up. I’d say there’s about 1/2” interference.



I don’t want to remove the lip all together or the integrity of the bumper could be compromised and winching could distort it so I’ll try to move the flange forward and re-weld it to the winch plate.



I’m totally bummed I failed to get pics but I was able to use stronghand clamps and some pieces of 1” steel and form a little break of sorts and bend the back lip enough to give clearance for the box and then weld it back to the winch plate.



Plenty fo clearance now. Maybe 3/8” more than I needed but it looks clean and gives more than enough access to the box should it need to be removed.



I can now mark the bumper done and get it dropped off for coating tomorrow. My son missed this mod, he had to work all day. When he got home he said “You’re so predictable Dad, I knew you’d modify the bumper so it was easier to see the machined aluminum top of the steering box.” He knows me so well.



Thanks for following along.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks Mike! Honestly I’m not totally sure where it will land. When we got it, the Jeep had 2 1/2” OME coils in it and poly 1 1/4 budget boost pucks (front only). They had ~6” of bump stop (silly) in it which resulted in 3 1/2 inches of up travel. The down travel with the short arms sucked so I didn’t even bother measuring it.

Total travel will be about 12” front and 14” rear. We want it low, rock rod low. With high-clearance 60’s, the TNT high-clearance belly pan, and 40’s It’ll do well on the trail and climb like a monster. It will feel very streetable and should stand out when I’m a crowd of other jeeps...of my vision comes to fruition.

I’m concerned about how the Dana 60 will fit up under the engine. Rumor has it the yolk can get into the oil pan with lower lifts. Also the trac-bar into the frame and/or radiator can also be an issue when the wheel base has been stretched forward. If I have to add bump stop to solve any if these things, I might as well run the bigger springs.

I have 2 sets of coils. The PO’s setup 2 1/2 - 3 3/4”
(With the budget boost) or 4 1/2 all springs. Once the Jeep can sit on all 4’s again, we’ll swap them in/out and see where we are. The up travel will either be 3 1/2” or 5 1/2”.

The nice thing about a crawler is you really don't need a ton of uptravel, nothing like a desert racer or baja style build so you can still have a very capable rig even if you limit the uptravel and have a lot of droop. Also with those 40's bumping up against a ledge you won't have the possibility of getting under an undercut with a bit more droop than say a 35" or even a 37" tire. That was one of the reasons I limited my droop when I was running 35's was because left un-strapped they would get caught under ledges all too frequently and I'd have to back up and pick a different line. I noticed as soon as I strapped the axles, front in particular, that become less of an issue.

Great progress on the build so far Matt. I enjoy checking in and seeing the progress. Your son probably doesn't realize how fortunate he is to have you as a dad with your skillset and knowledge.

 

[lilscorpion]

The nice thing about a crawler is you really don't need a ton of uptravel, nothing like a desert racer or baja style build so you can still have a very capable rig even if you limit the uptravel and have a lot of droop. Also with those 40's bumping up against a ledge you won't have the possibility of getting under an undercut with a bit more droop than say a 35" or even a 37" tire. That was one of the reasons I limited my droop when I was running 35's was because left un-strapped they would get caught under ledges all too frequently and I'd have to back up and pick a different line. I noticed as soon as I strapped the axles, front in particular, that become less of an issue.

Agreed. There's a balance somewhere that does depend on both preference and tolerance. With only 3 1/2" of up travel the jeep may kiss the bumps when going through and intersection with veracity. That's about the only time I didn't like my YJ (which was about this low button 37's). On the trail I never really noticed it. You don't really hit the bumps on the trail, you rest on them as you roll over stuff...that is unless you dismount an obstacle rather quickly.

I don't like allowing infinite droop because of obstacles like undercuts. To you point, the tire can find it's way buried if left on it's own but with a strap, as long as the front of the vehicle is ascending, that wheel has to go along for the ride.

Great progress on the build so far Matt. I enjoy checking in and seeing the progress. Your son probably doesn't realize how fortunate he is to have you as a dad with your skillset and knowledge.

Thanks. He's having a really good time. I think it's all sinking in as a complete life experience even in ways I had not anticipated. Here's an example: He's had his license about a week now. Because his jeep isn't done he's been borrowing mine to go "hang out" with his friends each night. Two nights ago, he somehow clipped a sign at a fast food joint with my front bumper and passenger's fender. Scrapped the fender and took some powder coat off of the bumper.



He called me and told me immediately and I was very glad he chose to do so. I managed to stay calm and told him we'd talk the next day...long story short, the next day he and I talked about the situation from a 3rd person point of view. He damaged someone else's vehicle. If it had been his, he could just live with it. Since it's not his, the owner of the vehicle has to live with it...but he knows me, he knows that I take incredibly good care of my vehicles. Not even a scratch on my JK since I purchased it 2 years ago. I think it hit him the hardest when I said "now you're driving my jeep when I'm building yours. When you're jeep is done it will be sparkly new and mine will now be all dinged up but not by me. How would you feel if the roles were reversed?" Later that day he came up to me and said "dad, I'll pay to have your jeep fixed." Good outcome.

As for the jeep itself, I think the appreciation will become more real as soon as he can see it sitting on all fours again. Right now I think he can't visualize it come together in his mind like I can.

 

[zmotorsports]

Again though Matt, that was a valuable life lesson that not many will have the opportunity to have. Around here I see that going a bit different with some of my neighbors who have kids at driving age. One backed into another neighbor's car as he was backing out of the driveway a few months back. The parent's of the kid just paid to have the vehicle fixed but never involved the kid who was at the wheel and incurred the damage. I don't think that taught the kid anything at all, other than mommy and daddy will pay for it. I'm having a little difficult time fitting into this new neighborhood as so many think that money grows on trees and seem to throw it around like it's nothing. Most have their lawns hired out rather than having their teenage kids mow them which I view as teaching opportunity 101 on how to work, but I guess I'm too old school. You just taught your son a valuable lesson in accountability.


Your son sounds like mine. When my son was in high school he mowed a few lawns after school and he came home to change one day before going to mow lawns and discovered he had an issues with his Jeep. I told him to just take mine. A couple of hours later he called me to inform me that he had broken the driver's side window when a rogue rock flew out from the line trimmer and shattered my window. He was devastated and called me immediately. Later he informed me that was one of the most, if not THE most, terrifying phone calls he had ever made. Fortunately I had the opportunity to think about it before he got home and I told myself I wasn't going to get pissed. We talked about it while he vacuumed up the shards of glass, then the next day we went and found a used glass in a wrecking yard but I was proud of him for respecting me as well as himself enough to call and not try to lie about it or hide it. That told me that he was mature enough to "talk" about it rather than me yelling at him. I think that incident actually made me grow more as a person than him but he still brings that up a lot as a scary time yet one that brought us closer.

Again, my hat's off to you for taking that opportunity to teach rather than yell because I know EXACTLY where you are coming from about how you treat your vehicles.

 

[lilscorpion]

With the front stretch complete, it’s time for the front diff. If you recall, I’m stretching the front 3” and the work I’ve done thus far moves the steering forward 3” but that’s only a portion of the equation. Adjustments need to be made at all of the attachment points too - the shock mount location, the coil spring mounts, trac bar mounts on frame and different, and the upper and lower control arms need to be 3” longer than before. This phase will cover the coil springs and shock mounts.

Stock, the coils (blue lime in the picture below) sit about 1 1/2-inches forward of the axle tube (red) and the shocks (green) sit about 2” behind. Conceptually, all that need to be done to accomplish a 3” is to shift the coil mount to be 1 1/2-inches behind the axle tube and hang the shocks off the back of that enough to keep the distance consistent with how it was stock.



The Stock differential will be removed shortly but, before I do, I need to get the new differential prepped. Andrew pulled the lid off the shipping crate. Ya know, we’ve opened this crate about a dozen times in the past 3 months and each time it feels like a magical moment. Drumroll...



Each time I see then I wonder if I can still lift a one-ton axle...Andrew doesn’t worry about that, it’s my problem. He just sees bling.



About a year and a half ago I sold my cherry picker because I knew I’d never need it again. When you’re wrong you’re wrong, I needed it, should have kept it. Oh well, plan B - take the sides off the box and man-move this damn thing myself.



Ok, it’s a start. We found out that the sides were the structural integrity of the box and removing them caused the whole thing to collapse under the weight of the diffs. So closer to the floor, I’ll take it since my foot didn’t get crushed.



One by one I lifted an end of the diff and shifted it off the plywood and on to the small jack stands. It’s there I’ll more easily be able to make the necessary modifications.

Replacing the coil buckets - Dynatrac installed a set in the correct factory location but, at my request, they only tack welded them on to make them easier to remove. Below on the ground is the new coil buckets with a 3” offset.



Kinda hard to see the difference in the above picture. Here’s a different vantage point that does a nice job showing the difference shifting the coil to the rear of the tube.



I used the Dynatrac installed coil buckets As a reference to get the new buckets exactly where they need to go. To find the location all I need to do is use the jack to lift the pinion until the provided coil bucket is 0-degrees and measure from the center casting to the center of the coil bucket.



To prep for welding I’ll need to clean off the primer. To know exactly where I need to clean, I use a silver sharpie to mark where the bracket will be.



Now I know where to focus my attention



I re-measure and locate the bracket again. Now I’m ready to tac on the bracket so I tac-weld all four corners checking level after each to make sure it’s not moving around.



These coil buckets have an adjustabilty to them if you’re only wanting a 1 1/2” stretch (for some silly reason). The slot in the base plate allows you to move the coil cup (a steel puck the ID of the coil springs) from 0 (axle centerline nets 1 1/2”) to -1 1/2 (nets 3”).



With everything in place, I repeat the process on the other side and then get busy welding everything home.



I ever told you the story about when I had a shop and huge steel tables with 1/2-inch thick tops? I’d lift a diff like this onto the table with my forklift and weld it home while standing up-right? I have? Oh.



No wonder my back hurts. Yeah I weld, take a break and let the diff cool, and go again but I’m getting too old for this **** so I do so from a chair instead of on my knees.



Once the diff has had a chance to cool down, I hose on some etching primer on there.



And then some color.



Popped off the diff bridge so I could make sure to get primer and paint on the underside.



Prepped and ready to go. Last time I need to (man) handle this thing - one end at a time I pivot it off the jack stands and onto the dolly I’ll use to get it over to the Jeep.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mmmmm, beefy.

 

[Arclitgold]

This might be my favorite thread on this forum. Nice work!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lilscorpion]

This might be my favorite thread on this forum. Nice work!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you and thanks for following along. Much more to come too!!

 

[Seagoon]

Excuse a dumb question from an Englishman who knows nothing about off-roading but what's the reason for the stretch?

 

[lilscorpion]

Excuse a dumb question from an Englishman who knows nothing about off-roading but what's the reason for the stretch?

Not a dumb question at all. Mechanics of a suspension make some designs better suited for different terrains as well as offering significant differences in vehicle behavior, comfort, and drivability in those terrains. That being said, each suspension design has its pros and cons making none of them ideal in all situations so selecting the right one depends completely on each Jeep owners preferences, driving style, and vehicle usage.

For us, the primary technical reason for the stretch - making room to run bigger tires (e.g. 40’s) within the constraints of the vehicles body but it’s also enables

(1) stability improvements in just about all on and off-road situations.

(2) Longer wheelbase pushes the tire (aka huge bumpers) closer to potential impact points.

(3) Wider wheelbase and narrow fenders results in less body and more tired to scrub against things.

(4) Bigger tires and steeper gears makes the motor slightly undersized - racing will never be a thing in this Jeep.

All (arguably) good for a new teenage driver

 

[lilscorpion]

Anyone know what this tape is or is called? It must be for sealing the drain plug on the side of the tub. I need some if I can figure out what it is.

Thanks

 

[Bob Heine]

Just guessing here but it looks like clear silicone tape.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Clear-1210364/203534911

 

[lilscorpion]

Just guessing here but it looks like clear silicone tape.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Clear-1210364/203534911

Thanks, I’ll look into it.

 

[lilscorpion]

To get the front axle in, we need frame-side control arms and the front attachment points at the frame. That’s where the TNT Customs belly pan system comes into play. The belly pan system is a 2 phase install, phase 1 is the front half which has integrated front mounts for the front lower control arms (YLink arms). The back half has all of the mounts for the upper and lower rear control arms. I’ll install that later (when I get to installing the rear end).

The factory skid plate, if you’ve never seen one, is more awkward and monstrous than it is beefy. It’s a formed piece of 1/8-inch sheet metal and detracts significantly from the jeeps ground clearance.

The new front system is 3 pieces -

(1) L & R Side plates
(2) Crossmember

After removing the stock belly pan and inspecting the lower portion of the fame I found a significant amount of rust build-up from gunk getting caught between the belly pan and the frame. This is what happens when you don’t clean under your Jeep. That gunk is moisture turning into a scale-like rust flake. It came off fairly easy using an air grinder and air hammer.



With the frame rails clean, a few coats of paint are applied to make it look new again. Here you can see the bungs that the stock belly pan bolts into. They’re welded into the frame and will be used to help locate the new side-plates.



Each of the side-plates is attached first by referencing the body mount and centering it in the gap and then by centering the visible bungs in the holes. Once centered, the original pan mounting bolts are driven in to secure it to the frame.



The holes in the side of the side plates will receive frame sleeves similar to how the factory steering box worked. The holes are center drilled using the center drilling jig I made earlier.



Then the spotted hole is thru-drilled using a small sharp drill bit.l and then a step drill to 3/4-inch.



3/4-inch x .120 DOM sleeves are pushed into the holes and then bolts through them torqued to damn tight.



With the pair of side plates installed, the super structure if the pan is now in place, all we need now is the crossmember to span the two.



Like so. Each side plate is now secured to the frame in 5 places. 2 of the original bungs that are welded into the bottom of the frame and the three new thru-frame crush sleeves.



We’re now ready for the front suspension and diff.

 

[Seagoon]

Will there be more skid plate under the sump(sorry,oil pan) or will you depend on the extra ground clearance to keep it safe?

 

[lilscorpion]

Will there be more skid plate under the sump(sorry,oil pan) or will you depend on the extra ground clearance to keep it safe?

Yes, there’s much more to it. There’s a rear x-member for the rear dual triangulated control arms that goes behind the side plates I just installed. Then there’s a shell/outer skid that covers the opening between the side plates. If I quit having problems I should have both in next weekend with pics.

 

[lilscorpion]

It’s time to get the front diff in the Jeep but I start by cleaning up the shop cart. I used to try to clean up at the end of every day but I’ve found that if I do it at the start, I can put away the tools I know I don’t need for the day and load up with the ones I do. If I do it the night before, I’ve not always processed what I’m doing the next day...meh, it works for me.



I’ve gotten tired of switching between tools in my air grinder so I added this to my arsenal this week.



It’s a mini so it’ll help me get into tighter spots. In contrast to the Craftsman I’ve had for years, it’s significantly smaller.



Good to go.



I start by lifting the diff off of the stands and onto the dolly. Damn thing is heavy. I can barely lift the heavy end but barely is enough. This dolly has really proved to be useful in diff swaps over the years. If I center the 60 the narrow ways on the diff, I can easily bolt up both control arms and the diff sits level and moves around below the vehicle easily.



For the first time since we started cutting and grinding we take a minute to clean up beneath the Jeep so the dolly moves more easily (and it’s driving my OCD crazy).



Push the diff under the Jeep and position it about where I think it needs to be.



Now for the YLink arms. The YLinks are radius arms which are made up of 3 different components. The lower arm has a factory style elastomer busing in the differential end and an extremely beefy threaded assembly on the other.



The flex joint has internal threads internally and a summit machine flex joint ore assembled and greased.



To assemble, I add some anti-seize. I noticed that TNT ships them with a little anti-seize installed so adding additional may not be totally necessary but I do because there’s quite a few threads internally, about 2 1/2 inches and getting a little all the way down will help.



Then the flex joints now spin into the lower assembly.



Set them to an initial length if 40” (guess)



It’s easier to show the bend on the bench. This is what makes the Y-link unique.



The bend and rotation of the arm allows the arm to tuck nicely up into the frame rails higher than you’ll ever be able to stuff the diff. This means the arm will not be the limiting factor in your suspension and the ground clearance is king.



Right about the time I was ready to hook up the front diff is when everything went south. I noticed that I’d forgotten to remove the factory trac-bar bracket which is a giant cast unit that was clearly welded on correctly.



This is a Rubicon Express trac-bar. As far as I’m concerned, it’s junk. Avoid any suspension component that is made with a heim joint. This one is rusted and almost seized. Once it fully seized the joint will fail and bad bad things will happen. Seriously, they’re dangerous unless you service them as often as your oil (3k) and you’ll be replacing them often.

Back to that stupid trac-bar bracket...No biggie I thought, I grabbed the air hose, cutoff wheel, and air hammer and got after it. 2 hours later it looked like this after giving the sawzall a shot.



Cutoff wheel is too short to get through 1/4 of it, sawzall waant progressing quickly with the blades I have, and I had resorted to trying to remove a piece at a time so I could get the cutoff wheel in further. All in all I think this damn thing took longer to remove than all of the brackets we’ve removed on this Jeep together. In the end I just sucked it up and cut it off with the sawzall.



I pride myself in trying to work smarter and not harder but this time there was no smart about it, just hanging on as long as I could even though my elbows, wrists, and shoulders felt like they were going to fall off. On the up side it only took me 2 1/2 sawzall blades.



Following sawzall paluza I spent the next 30 minutes grinding the residual cast and weld left behind after my butchery.

Finally I’m back to the front diff install. After rolling the diff back in place, we slid the floor jack under it so we could lift by the housing. This part is slick - the jack lifts the diff right off the dolly.



Because the center section is offset, the sort side is lifted off the ground. Allowing me to swap in a jack stand.



Rinse and repeat on the other side. I’m now able to pull out the dolly and the diffs are in place.



Now to install the upper control arms. I move the jack under the pinion. I can now rotate up or down the center section as needed to get the uppers installed.



Little tweak and they fall into place. Kidding, the arm angle makes this step very difficult but it’s easy if you know the tricks. The business on the arms, lowers and uppers, deflect. By pulling (hard) on the arm assembly, you can influence it just enough to make the bushings easier to slide in (with a rubber mallet).



And that’s why they’re called YLinks.



Now to install the trac-bar. It has smaller flex joints on both ends and is seriously beefy. Probably multiple times thicker,stronger than the Rubicon piece I just took off and the joints are serviceable.



Lucky for me the bar had enough adjustment that I could set it to 33” which was the measurement of the bar when parallel to the ground. This meant that I could jack up the diff to the bump stops, attach it to the new frame side bracket and use the bar to locate and tax-weld on the new bracket perfectly in place.



Heavy tack weld in two places and it’s ready to go around the block (j/k, cycle the diff to see how everything clears). These little two welds are enough though to get it back on all four though and work in the backend. I need to wait to burn them home until I’m sure that it’s in the right location.



There’s not much room for everything under the front end of a wrangler when you upgrade to a Dana 60, even the tie rod that came with it is an 1/8th from hitting the cover at full stuff.



Started by running the diff up into the bump stops to check clearance if it were to bottom out (both hitting at the same time).at full bump, there’s about 2 inches of clearance at the radiator and the trac-bar has an inch to the passengers frame rail.



Next we cycled the suspension to see how well everything fits either side.



Closest thing was the trac-bar when the passengers side is fully stuffed and there just less than 1-inch if clearance.



We then tried the same test with wheels and tires.



Really close to the grill. Maybe 1/4-inch if clearance.



We figured out that the diff is 1” too far forward. Good enough for now, we’ll adjust it after we get the rear diff in. We can see it now though.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Badass! Great job with your writeups also.

 

[CumminsFan]

Can you tell us a bit about your handy floor jack, stock or customized?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Can you tell us a bit about your handy floor jack, stock or customized?

I don't want to speak for him, but it's a Pro Eagle. They come in various configurations for offroad use

 

[lilscorpion]

Can you tell us a bit about your handy floor jack, stock or customized?

I don't want to speak for him, but it's a Pro Eagle. They come in various configurations for offroad use

Bigblue&Goldie is right, it’s a ProEagle Offroad jack.



I’ve removed the wheels and installed a quick vehicle mount they used to make for Offroad vehicles and/or support/chase trucks. My intent was to mount it in my Jeep but found it was much heavier that I really wanted to lug around so now it mounts nicely against the wall when not in use.



The only downside is it doesn’t slide at all when lifting a vehicle. Up side is it won’t move at all when there’s a load on it...AT ALL. I find the predictability a nice feature for the things I do in the shop. That and it’s as low to the ground as you can get.

 

[neilc]

Great progress. That Jeep is going to be a BEAST!

Impressed with how you are doing this. I wouldn't know where to begin other than to keep handing you tools!

Thanks for the details in this build!

 

[bradleykd]

Just wanted to comment to let you know I've been watching this one from the beginning!

Great project, even better documentation.

I admire your consistent garage time to work on this. Something like this would take me years because I can't seem to get to the garage for more than an hour or two every few days. I love that you have daily updates.

I also am amazed at your ability to stop and take pictures. I have started many projects with the intention of doing a write up on it, but always wind up with a few pictures at the beginning of the project and one of the finished product. I can't bring myself to stop and take pictures.

 

[lilscorpion]

Great progress. That Jeep is going to be a BEAST!

Impressed with how you are doing this. I wouldn't know where to begin other than to keep handing you tools!

Thanks for the details in this build!

Appreciate it and thanks for following along. No real secret when it comes to the process, I happen to have a bit of experience with most of the tools I've used thus far though I do tend to find myself learning almost daily.

I admire your consistent garage time to work on this. Something like this would take me years because I can't seem to get to the garage for more than an hour or two every few days. I love that you have daily updates.

I do tend to spent a fair amount of time in the shop weekly but this project is unique in that we made a few family decisions about a month ago that delayed this project's start it was supposed to be done on my son's birthday on 7/31...so really we're so committed because we're in scramble mode.

I also am amazed at your ability to stop and take pictures. I have started many projects with the intention of doing a write up on it, but always wind up with a few pictures at the beginning of the project and one of the finished product. I can't bring myself to stop and take pictures.

I've built quite a few vehicles and never really have documented the process. Part of this project for my son was to memorialize the project so the impression it makes on his life is much deeper than just a fleeting memory. I wanted a big big big one before goes off to college.

 

[lilscorpion]

Lug nuts showed up. Devils in the details (part 1) - muting the lugs (chrome/shinny *****)



Took a little looking but the socket that’s required to take off these splined lugs is different than the socket needed to take off mine. Trying to figure out a subtle way to screw myself in the trail. Lol



Now the lugs fade out of focus on the wheels where as before, they’re the sore thumb. Kinda like the 1-ton sleeper approach.

 

[Arclitgold]

Looks awesome! Maybe I missed it but what size wheels are those? I really dig that tire to wheel ratio. The whole giant wheel / low profile tire trend on trucks right now just looks bad.


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[lilscorpion]

Looks awesome! Maybe I missed it but what size wheels are those? I really dig that tire to wheel ratio. The whole giant wheel / low profile tire trend on trucks right now just looks bad.

I’m on the fence actually - I find it slightly hotrod(ish) when a buggy style crawler has big wheels and lower profile tires. But by bigger I mean slightly like 18’s or 19’s on 40” tall or taller tires. Alas, we went traditional (which is my preference) with 40x13.5x17. These tires are true 40’s unloaded measuring at just over 40” and loaded around 39. Ground clearance is crazy.

 

[lilscorpion]

Driveshafts can’t be ordered until both differentials are in place. With the front close to configured correctly, we need to work towards getting the rear in.



After having seen how to approach the front, Andrew now knows the drill.



Andrew pops off the tires and rolls them out of the way.



Spidertrax wheel spacers are stripped off next.



The rear differential will be stretched rearward 4 total inches. Part of the stretch is accomplished by moving the upper coil bucket back roughly 2 1/2 inches. The other 1 1/2 inches will be handled with offset differential coil spring mounts.



The rear suspension we’ll be installing is a double triangulated 4-link. By nature of the design, the rear end will be located by the opposing triangles (formed by the upper and lower arms) and a trac-bar is no longer needed.



First Andrew removes the frame-side upper trac-bar mount using the same process as I’ve been using to remove the other brackets. He’s a little more gentle with the cut-off wheel than I am frequently jumping back and forth between the cut-off wheel and the air hammer testing testing to see if he’d cut enough. Watching the learning experience unfold before me, knowing I had done exactly the same many years ago, is interesting. I let him work at it for about 45 minutes before I asked if he needed help. As it turns out, that bracket was really on there and taking it off was a lot more involved. As soon as we swapped seats and I began to struggle with it, he felt better.



Once we got the bracket off, he cleaned up the left-overs less some gouges we made as we struggled to get it off. I reminded him chicks dig scars.



With the upper trac-bar removed, we tackled the last only remaining outside welds on the upper coil buckets. With this step done, we’ll remove the diff and we’ll spend the rest of the time under the vehicle where the real fun happens.



The old Dana 35 removal goes fairly quickly using the reverse order of how we installed the front axle. Lower the diff with the jack on to the dolly, disconnect all of the control arms, brake lines, sway bar, e-brake cables, breather hose, and driveshaft.d Money.



Then roll the diff out from under the vehicle. Previous owner fabricated this diff guard out of steel bar and welded on the punisher skull. I gotta admit, even though I’m not really into this kinda thing, it’s cool. He didn’t have the clearance that he really needed at the gas tank which is why the skull appears to have a silver business dew.



Quick aside: This little IR 1/4” impact is sweet. I purchased it as an Amazon warehouse deal a few years back and have never really used it. Today I combined it with a sunex 1/4” universal socket and removed the u-joint bolts on the Dana 35. It quietly zipped them out and felt really smooth in my hand while doing so. I’m diggin’ it. Need to use it more.



With the diff out, down under is where I’ll be working for the next few evenings or so…on the floor. I had every intent to not do this big of a project without a lift again but guess I’m right back where it all started…welding on my back it is.



Most of the brackets can be removed with quick simple cuts with a cut off wheel and then zipped off with the the air hammer. For those who’ve never tried it, it’s a long stroke air hammer and after breaking a dozen welds, you feel like someone kicked your a$$. This set of brackets in particular I’ll only use the air hammer since it’s so close to the fuel lines. Trying to avoid a Super Dave Osborn moment.



Passenger’s side done, pile forms.



Andrew continues to clean up on the passenger’s side while I finish cutting off the drivers.



He gets a little back time too. Little sparks on the belly a man does make.



Very very close. A lot of grinding in focused areas. Many of the factory brackets were slightly undercut so it’s impossible to completely remove all evidence of them being there. No one will be able to see them either.



Bigger pile now



Drivers side is now ready to go



Next up, new rear upper coil buckets.

 

[gearhead1960]

Impressive amount of work!

The boy is growing into a man as we watch him with the power tools....

 

[lilscorpion]

Now to install the upper-rear coil buckets. Most of the coolest upgrades require some level of fabrication. In the case of the upper rear coil-buckets, it’s a modification that requires a little more careful measuring and confidence than most of what web done thus far on the project. As a reminder, here’s what we need to do to move the coil back in the frame, we need to cut a wedge out of the frame along the red line below and then weld in the new coil bucket brackets.



The only reference line we have to leverage in this modification is a line we’ll mark that runs parallel to a hole in the frame that the factory likely used for fixturing and/or the assembly process (likely also a reference point for them as well.



When doing a mod like this I like to be able to check my work (following the measure trice, cut once principle) so I pulled a few measurements. As I’ve learned, these pictures are useful in the process as I don’t have to try to keep a notepad and pencil on-hand everywhere I go. This is the top of the coil-bucket bracket.



And the leg. Notice the notch in the ruler? That’s what happens when you use your square as a guide for the plasma cutter.

Now do mock up the layout on the frame. Using the imaginary line running parallel to the frame fixture hole, I then lay the square (1-inch wide) parallel to define the cut line. Using leg measurement I took above, I can then mark the frame where the top should intersect.



The line running horizontally is supposed to be level to the ground. I used a level to set the ruler and mark the line. Now using my two reference measurements, I’m able to validate the what I just laid out makes sense.



This part takes a little faith. Cutting with a grinder loaded with a cut-off wheel takes a little practice but isn’t exactly difficult. I usually do a shallow pass initially and, once there’s a groove to follow, I lay into it a little more to actually do the cut.



Need to remember the bracket has a thickness to it. That means that, when cutting across the frame, there needs to be a slight depth to the cut to accommodate for the 3/16” material thickness.



The inside is a little trickier. On the inside there’s no frame fixture hole to use as a reference point. This requires that I interpolate the triangle from the outside to the inside using only my reference marks and measurements. It is this cut that is the most nerve racking. The way I approach cuts like this is to draw where I think I need to cut and then move the lines slightly in as to intentionally fall short knowing it’s easier to remove more material then try to add it back.



Now sometimes magic happens and this time was one of those times. I must have just slightly been off somewhere because I thought I’d have to remove an additional 1/8-inch to get to the perfect fit however I actually ended up needing to only barely clean up one of the cuts to get al 4 sides to square.



Mocking up the bracket to ensure all sides fit very well and we’re both square and level.



Happy with the layout, I tac-welded in the bump top base. This is where a factory-like bump stop will thread in once I know how long they will be and they also serve as a spring retainer. On droop, the spring can slide down the tub which allows more down-travel than the shock will permit.



I don’t want to burn them home yet, I won’t feel really good about things until I can get the rear end in there and cycle it up to the bump-stops. For now, a couple of good tacks will suffice.



Passenger’s side is ready for the rear diff. That upper tab is a gusset that increased the weld surface of the bracket so not all stress is on what are essentially all **** welds.



The bump stop tube is slightly off-center to the inside of the frame by maybe an inch and a half. As of right now I’m not totally sure how I’m going to get in above it to weld it in place. I’m thinking I’ll need to wait until the vehicle has weight on the axle again and then I can jack the body up and get in there. We’ll see.



Then repeat on the driver’s side. Since things seem to be going well, I decided to weldon the bump stop tube before I tac it in place. It’s always easier to weld in-position than out of it. Here I over-cut just a tad bit. The picture makes it look much worse than it is though, it’s probably less tan 1/4”. Before I’m ready to weld it in place I’ll remove the stop and lengthen it a bit to compensate. Lengthening the bracket is far easier than trying to patch the frame.



With the bump stop installed. What’s installed in the cup is a stock-length stop. I suspect I’ll need to run at least a 3” one after everything is said and done.



Coil buckets are now ready for the rear differential.

 

[Arclitgold]

Wow this is some serious work! I naively had no idea these stretch kits involved this much fab.


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[zmotorsports]

Great progress Matt.

I've been away to Ouray for our annual Colorado wheeling trip and had to check in on your progress. Fantastic if I do say so myself.

As for the heim joints, I completely agree. They're fine on a buggy build or race application but due to the maintenance involved with them I avoid them on a daily driver/weekend wheeler type project for the reasons you mentioned. Unfortunately in our local Jeep club I am the minority. Most think they use them in race applications so they must be better than a rubber encapsulated bushing or greaseable swivel or poly joint so they fight them and fight them, but hey, they look cool.

I am also glad to see you relocate and square up the rear upper spring mounts. They are much more functional and keep even pressures on the springs even if you weren't lengthening the wheelbase.

Great workmanship and I'm looking forward to seeing more progress......

 

[ClappedOutBport]

That's a lot of metal taken out. I guess as long as it's not pulling any heavy trailers or anything it doesn't really matter since it's behind the rear axle?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I'm willing to bet a 6cyl Jeep on 40's isn't towing much.