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Above 1200 Sq/FT Garage Refurb®

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

boostme

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Wow, that's pretty neat! Even great for nuts and bolts when you disassemble something and you don't want them dropping on the floor

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Strouty

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I think I am subliminally being told I have no interest or something.

Those magnetic strips are great, I also just use small magnets on the sides of cabinets to hold razor blades and other easily lost metallic items.
 

BBChevro

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Submitted for Kevin's approval. Dust removed.



...

Glad to see that (I noticed it too, but just didn't say anything). :lol:




...

So, low and behold, :shocking: I got hit with 120V.

...


It's not actually legal to do any of your own electrical repairs here in the land down-under - but (hypothetically), if I was to delve into that realm, I would always have one of those inexpensive "voltage detector pens" to poke at anything and everything before touching anything.
(Not that I'd do that of course - because it is against the law).

I can't really imagine your 120v being a whole lot safer than our 240v (I do realize that it's half the voltage - but I would think that it would still be a potential killer).


I like the TV mounting too. :thumbup:
 

Dan in Pasadena

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I also made a small addition to the pegboard today. I grabbed a magnetic strip at HF this morning. I've never had a good way to hang or keep some impact driver bits. I was going to make a tray to toss them in but I thought about using one of the strips. It works great.


Just a suggestion to make those bits a little more organized. I didn't invent this, someone on the board did and I blatantly copied it. I've posted this before, but what the hell? Cheap Harbor Freight socket organizers on each side of cheap Harbor Freight magnetic strip:

 
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NUTTSGT

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Glad to see that (I noticed it too, but just didn't say anything). :lol:

It's not actually legal to do any of your own electrical repairs here in the land down-under - but (hypothetically), if I was to delve into that realm, I would always have one of those inexpensive "voltage detector pens" to poke at anything and everything before touching anything.
(Not that I'd do that of course - because it is against the law).

I can't really imagine your 120v being a whole lot safer than our 240v (I do realize that it's half the voltage - but I would think that it would still be a potential killer).


I like the TV mounting too. :thumbup:

Thanks for the compliments. I did check the wiring with a meter but somehow, I missed the hot one coming in :dunno: just a reminder to me not to get complacent.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Just a suggestion to make those bits a little more organized. I didn't invent this, someone on the board did and I blatantly copied it. I've posted this before, but what the hell? Cheap Harbor Freight socket organizers on each side of cheap Harbor Freight magnetic strip:


Now that you posted that Dan, I remember seeing that awhile back. I might need to grab one and cut it in half to do one side of the magnetic strip. ;)
 

dlcwent

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NUTTSGT

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Or one of these works well for nu...s/s156/nuttsgt/all/02212016daka 001.jpg[/IMG]
If anybody wants more information on this un it, I picked it up from Menard's. I believe I posted a link up above 5-6 posts ago.
 

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dlcwent

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Nice addition Nutts. Glad to see it has arrived. Now it's just getting it installed. Is that this weekends project or are you on the clock?
 
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NUTTSGT

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The place is looking great! :beer::lol_hitti


Thanks man.


Nice addition Nutts. Glad to see it has arrived. Now it's just getting it installed. Is that this weekends project or are you on the clock?

Now that I actually have an instruction manual in hand. I need to finalize the plan for installation. I know I have to get some electrical over there for the blower motor.

I had started a another thread in the Heating/AC section and somebody mentioned checking the temp rating of the Reflectix wrap before I put it onthe warm air ducts. I read on the tech specs that it had a rating of 180°F and I glanced at the manual last night and it mentioned needing a 250° rating. So I was going to do some research on that today. When I went out to start a fire in the garage, I glanced at the label onthe Reflectix and states it works up to 250°. I need to do some double checking on that.

I'm going to get the filter box put together and get a measurement of how big it is. I'm considering setting the DAKA unit on a layer of solid 4"x8"x16" laying flat. I don't really need to, but it would be nice just to have it a few inches off the floor when I sweep, mop the floor, or just for general purpose/looks.



EDIT: I just fired off an email to Reflectix regarding using their product in my situation. Hopefully I'll be good to go.
 
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NUTTSGT

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So what's the final plan for the old Wood stove? One last ride to the scrap yard?

Do you anticipate using less firewood with the new unit?

Yes, I should use less wood with the new stove or atleast I would think so. The old wood stove might get put on CL or maybe a for sale sign stuck on it. My neighbor across the road might just put dibs on it. If all else fails, it'll go to the scrapper.


Eric, in the dust on the cabinet, you should have written"Test dirt. Do not wash" just to screw with the OCD types.


Interesting, I might have to do that next time, maybe use a small brush wetted with some water. :bounce:
 
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NUTTSGT

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I had a few pictures that I wanted to get posted the other night but things didn't work out. I put together the ductwork in anticipation of starting the project. I'll be running 8" over to the other side and then transitioning down to 6" for the boot.


I did some measuring and the block layout will look like this


And after cutting one block down a bit. Funny thing is, after actually setting it up, I don't ned that half block.
 

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NUTTSGT

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This morning, I got the old ******* a pallet and ready to leave the garage. I hooked a strap to the pallet and pulled it out with my truck. It's no sitting out in the driveway.


In it's place, sitting atop a layer of block.


I have the wiring in the conduit stubbed up into the attic. I need to bring a section of wire over and meet them together. The door is on, adjusted and the ash door is too. The grate is in along with the firebrick waiting to get lit.

 

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drivesitfar

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Nutts: very nice. hope it works as good as it looks.

since you won't get much or anything by scrapping the old stove do you have anybody to pick it up? one option i could think of is maybe making an outdoor BBQ out of it or a fire pit by burying it?

Wow tunes and heat. your wife and kids won't ever see you now.

cheers :beer:
 
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NUTTSGT

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I hope this new one keeps the place as warm as the old one. The neighbor thinks I'm going to regret is because the lack of radiate heat.

The daughter is grown but living at home with the granddaughter, she doesn't care where dear old Dad is. lol. The wife, knows where to find me. :beer:
 
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dlcwent

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Nice looking heater Nutts. I'll bet it'll be worth the time and money spent.

Did you have the fire department come and check it out to see if it was installed properly?:lol_hitti
 
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NUTTSGT

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Very nice looking new heater! Ruffly how big is your garage spot that you are going to be heating?


This heater should heat the entire garage more effectively since I'll have a duct running to the other side. Atleast I hope so, if not, well I screwed up then.

I forget what the square footage of the garage is but I can easily measure it up again. Maybe I'll try to do that today when I take a break from working on the stove installation.

Nice looking heater Nutts. I'll bet it'll be worth the time and money spent.

Did you have the fire department come and check it out to see if it was installed properly?:lol_hitti

I hope it'll be worth the money. I have talked about replacing that old behemoth for years. Things just went right this year and we got a decent refund from our taxes this year. Coupling that with a few rebate/gift cards from Menard's and a nearly full change jar, it made the timing perfect.

As far as the installation, lol, no. We went out one time as somebody wanted us to look at their installation of a wood stove. The problem that is created by doing that is we say "yes, it's okay" and it's not or they have an issue, is liability. In today's society, that's more than enough for a lawyer to jump on and sue the city and FD.
 
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NUTTSGT

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This project is going to drive me nuts. I just grabbed my spool of wire to run power for the blower and it's quite obvious I do not have enough wire for the run. :willy_nil
 

dlcwent

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I hope it'll be worth the money. I have talked about replacing that old behemoth for years. Things just went right this year and we got a decent refund from our taxes this year. Coupling that with a few rebate/gift cards from Menard's and a nearly full change jar, it made the timing perfect.

As far as the installation, lol, no. We went out one time as somebody wanted us to look at their installation of a wood stove. The problem that is created by doing that is we say "yes, it's okay" and it's not or they have an issue, is liability. In today's society, that's more than enough for a lawyer to jump on and sue the city and FD.

Around here, the only way to get the insurance company to insure you with a wood stove is to have it inspected by the fire chief and prove it to be a safe install. And that's why I asked. Not to mention that you might have some "connections".
 
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NUTTSGT

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Around here, the only way to get the insurance company to insure you with a wood stove is to have it inspected by the fire chief and prove it to be a safe install. And that's why I asked. Not to mention that you might have some "connections".

I have the connections if it needing done but luckily it's not the case here
 

drivesitfar

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NUTTS: it's sort of like plumbing. once i've made about 4 trips to the store to complete what i thought was an hour job half a day later or more i'm done. sadly or maybe not i'm putting away my plumbing tools for 4 more years until i need something else fixed and i was just getting the hang of it.

maybe you can use all the knowledge you are gaining today to install other guy's stoves for some spare cash for more things for the garage? :evil:


seriously i hope it works like you are hoping it will.
 
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NUTTSGT

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So I made teh trip to Menard's grabbed a spool of wire and got it run, well, almost. What isn't clear to posting here is that the garage has been added on to a few times. I'm having to run the wire through 3 separate attic areas. Climb up, pull wire across 1 attic, climb back down, repeat twice more. Once it's connected, it's reverse and stapling the wire up in place. Crawling across dirt, dust dirty cobwebs and fiberglass insulation is not fun at all. So as I pull the cover off the breaker panel, I'm looking for the spare breaker that I know is in the box and I don't see it. Apparently, I used it somewhere in the past. So now, it's another trip somewhere to grab another breaker and probably a spare one too.

Duct work is run up into this attic space after 20-25 trips up and across the attic. I had to cut and reinforce a ceiling joist in the process. I'll still have to repair some of the foil faced insulation around that area.


I was also arm deep in the duct insulation pulling the center duct and wire out of it.


The email I sent to Reflectix has gone unanswered. Although it does say it's good for 250 degrees in contact, it also states below that not to use it in applications above 180 degrees. Since it says that, I'm going to try to run this over the duct work and maybe wrap it with Reflectix.
 

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NUTTSGT

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Geez nutts it sounds like a lot of fun. You describe it like it was less than pleasant.:lol_hitti

On top of the fiberglass itching, I also got a small amount of poison ivy from cutting a tree up the other day at my parents. It was windy and it came down across the road onto their property. As I'm moving sections , I'm cutting through vines thinking to myself, I think that's poison ivy but there are no leaves.

So I'm trying to be cautious on what I scratch and itch. I don't need this **** spreading, especially the spot I have along my jawline. :sad:
 

dlcwent

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That ***** and not in the good way. I live in a oak grove and can count on a good breakout of poison oak at least once a year. I feel for you Nutts. And I didn't say "your"

You might have said and I missed it, but what is that suppose to put out for BTU's?
 

drivesitfar

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Nutts: just curious what you put on poison IVY to make it stop itching. Calamine lotion or ?? sorry to hear you had to find some while doing some work. knock on wood i can't recall ever having to experience it. we did have NETTLES in the woods and it would sting and itch sort of like the fiberglass you are also dealing with.

i have a concrete block home that started out as a small 700 square foot home and one of it's owners in the early 60's was a mason and built a few rooms with full on foundations and walls so it ended up being a bunch of boxes and 2000 square feet. my wife wanted to make a bigger kitchen and make a 45 degree hallway through the middle of the house. i tore out a piece of 5 bearing walls to do that, but the real fun was hooking up the new kitchen to the sewer (we found out old kitchen and laundry was on septic and bathroom was on sewer and not hole house like we thought when we bought it). anyway crawl space was about a foot so part of the reason i'm losing weight is i need to get back under there and do some wiring now.

believe me when i say i feel your pain, but your new stove looks AMAZING.

hope you feel better soon
 
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NUTTSGT

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NUTTSGT

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Nutts: just curious what you put on poison IVY to make it stop itching. Calamine lotion or ?? sorry to hear you had to find some while doing some work. knock on wood i can't recall ever having to experience it. we did have NETTLES in the woods and it would sting and itch sort of like the fiberglass you are also dealing with.


believe me when i say i feel your pain, but your new stove looks AMAZING.

hope you feel better soon



The itch isn't bad, just a spot between the fingers is all that is really gets me. The rest of it, I either splash some rubbing alcohol on it (when in the house or at work) or while I'm out in the garage, I break out a bit of Lacquer Thinner. They both work good to dry it out.
 
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