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hacksaws?

AntiqueBen

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Thanks RTM. Wow...1906. I didn't realize this hacksaw was that old.
 
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AntiqueBen

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Looks a lot like this #9 in the newer 1931 catalog. They probably didn’t change them much that far back.
-DonIMG_1328.png
It does look like the no. 9. I wandered why mine just says "Hoosier" without the no. 1 marking. The Hoosier no. 1 in the 1906 catalog looks like it only says Hoosier too. Wander why they didn't put the no. 1 on there?
 

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RTM

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Thanks RTM. Wow...1906. I didn't realize this hacksaw was that old.
That’s when it first appeared in a catalog.
Still going in 1914


And in 1923
 

Beerhippie

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Nothing as nice as some of those above, but better than the one I broke/wore out last week:

53697139074_9b84fb8608_b.jpg

53696868601_873982a8f9_b.jpg

Ain't it nice when you go out junk shopping and find just what you were looking for?

The handle is rubber/gutta percha--a little worn, but I think it might still have a few decades of use in it.
 

Beerhippie

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That's not a hack saw. This is a hacksaw:

53710652423_944ac087bf_b.jpg

I'll see your 12" and raise you seven: 19" pin-pin. Do they even make blades like that anymore?

53710652413_005e3d5173_b.jpg

Another found in my own garage cool tool.
 

AntiqueBen

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That's not a hack saw. This is a hacksaw:

53710652423_944ac087bf_b.jpg

I'll see your 12" and raise you seven: 19" pin-pin. Do they even make blades like that anymore?

53710652413_005e3d5173_b.jpg

Another found in my own garage cool tool.
Nice hacksaw. But I see your 19" & raise you 7-1/2". Here's my biggest hacksaw. It's a monster. Has a 26-1/2" blade & is 37" long overall. Most of these types I see usually don't have a medallion. This one is a 5 screw & has a "Warranted Superior" medallion. I'd love to find out the manufacturer on this one.
 

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RTM

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Both of those hacksaws have a 90% chance of being butcher saws. Their blades were available by the roll, and blade punches sold to make them to length needed.




I use SS bandsaw blades to turn them into hacksaws.

There are also some out there that seemed to belong to a rental type agency, stamped NOT TO BE SOLD, and apparently were resharpened by the owner. Blades thick at the end, then tapering erratically a bit, skinny in the middle.
 

AntiqueBen

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Both of those hacksaws have a 90% chance of being butcher saws. Their blades were available by the roll, and blade punches dold to make them to length needed.



I use SS bandsaw blades to turn them into hacksaws.

There are also some out there that seemed to belong to a rental type agency, stamped NOT TO BE SOLD, and apparently were resharpened by the owner. Blades thick at the end, then tapering erratically a bit, skinny in the middle.
Thanks for those links. Good info. Did you notice none of them in the links have 5 screws or a medallion? That's what threw me off when I seen my saw. I couldn't pass it up when I seen it.
 

AntiqueBen

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Did you know Atkins, Simonds, and about 5 other companies made butcher saws?

I'm not going to do all the heavy lifting around here.😉
Gotcha 😊 I've never got around to digging into figuring it out. I'm down enough rabbit holes right now 😉
 
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Beerhippie

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Thanks for the links, RTM!

I'd pretty well figured out it was a butcher's bone saw after looking for blades. The band saw blade idea had occurred to me, too. I have some we bought for our Porta Band that don't fit--maybe I'll cut one of those down, drill for pins and have a HUGE metal hacksaw.
 

AntiqueBen

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Thanks for the links, RTM!

I'd pretty well figured out it was a butcher's bone saw after looking for blades. The band saw blade idea had occurred to me, too. I have some we bought for our Porta Band that don't fit--maybe I'll cut one of those down, drill for pins and have a HUGE metal hacksaw.
The band saw blade sounds like a good idea.
 

AntiqueBen

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There are also some out there that seemed to belong to a rental type agency, stamped NOT TO BE SOLD, and apparently were resharpened by the owner. Blades thick at the end, then tapering erratically a bit, skinny in the middle.
I believe the Tilden Saw Company out of Michigan rented butcher saws. Theirs may have been the ones marked "Not To Be Sold."
 
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tom coffey

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Today's add:

53743367637_631eb7dcd9_b.jpg

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53743367647_23d8628564_b.jpg

Cool design, nickel-plated frame (with some copper underplate showing), rosewood handle, very little rust--you're comin' home with me!

Now if I can get the blade out... the blade wants to twist when I try to unscrew the handle. It's soaking with some PO right now.
Neat saw. I don't think I have one like it.
 

RTM

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Eric Brown

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Here is the nicest hack saw that is in my tool collection

Solid brass

49067707497_ec1a2a01ed_z.jpg2016-04-23 19.20.25 by don long, on Flickr
This saw looks very similar to one patented by G.W. Griffen June 5, 1883 (#278935) These were made of cast iron and used a lever to tension the blade. It looks like this one may be a pattern makers copy and uses a knurled nut for tension. Griffin merged with C.E. Jennings later and they modified the design making the handle and blade rotatable. Ad from 1883 shows the change. The other picture shows a couple of Griffins to the left.
 

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Eric Brown

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Here is my pad saw collection. Over time it seems most have lost their wood keyhole saw blades and hacksaw blades are the replacements.
From left to right: Disston 1877 patent, four more Disston's of various ages, A 1879 patented and an unknown. All have been cleaned, polished and nickel plated. Edit: Found an image of the one on far right in the 1897 Strelinger catalog pg. 737 where they indicate it was Thropp's key hole saw and pad. Did not find a patent in either DATAMP.ORG or Google patents.
 

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Eric Brown

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Got a 8" Sterling hacksaw. Cleaned, polished and nickel plated it. Noticed a diamond with a S inside it. Did some searching and found Diamond Saw Works. Sterling was a line they produced. Started business in 1890 and they are still in business today. 100% employee owned. They still make hacksaw blade but only have 12" listed. I contacted them and asked if they might have some old stock of 8" and 9" blades. Didn't expect an answer except maybe no. Instead, the National Sales Manager checked with the production people, and they actually made some new ones for me. Even had the Sterling name put on them. The cost? Free, in exchange for me sending them a picture of the Sterling hacksaw with a new Sterling blade in it. I agreed. I am happy that the company is proud of their history. So, to show my appreciation I am sending them the saw.
 

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Beerhippie

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Got a 8" Sterling hacksaw. Cleaned, polished and nickel plated it. Noticed a diamond with a S inside it. Did some searching and found Diamond Saw Works. Sterling was a line they produced. Started business in 1890 and they are still in business today. 100% employee owned. They still make hacksaw blade but only have 12" listed. I contacted them and asked if they might have some old stock of 8" and 9" blades. Didn't expect an answer except maybe no. Instead, the National Sales Manager checked with the production people, and they actually made some new ones for me. Even had the Sterling name put on them. The cost? Free, in exchange for me sending them a picture of the Sterling hacksaw with a new Sterling blade in it. I agreed. I am happy that the company is proud of their history. So, to show my appreciation I am sending them the saw.
Great story, beautiful saw, and very nice plating work!
 

mercifiknow

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Today's add:

53743367637_631eb7dcd9_b.jpg

53744295451_73ebe1aafb_b.jpg

53743367647_23d8628564_b.jpg

Cool design, nickel-plated frame (with some copper underplate showing), rosewood handle, very little rust--you're comin' home with me!

Now if I can get the blade out... the blade wants to twist when I try to unscrew the handle. It's soaking with some PO right now.
Not to take away from this thread, I have a similar saw and was curious if any knows how to clean up the metal portion? Mine is in a somewhat worse shape and would like to clean it up some without damaging it further. Thanks!
 

Eric Brown

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Not to take away from this thread, I have a similar saw and was curious if any knows how to clean up the metal portion? Mine is in a somewhat worse shape and would like to clean it up some without damaging it further. Thanks!
You could use a razor to scrape and then either grey scratch pad or fine steel wool. Really depends on what you desire as the final finish. One difficulty with the chemicals like evapo-rust is finding a container to put it in and being able to submerge it. You could try doing each end but will end up with a line. You could also try Navel Jelly (phosphoric acid). It will cling to the part. Needs to be rinsed off with water. Will leave a black coating that cleans easily with wire brush or grey scratch pad. It is always advisable to scrape the rust off as much as you can first. The time and amount of chemical needed will be reduced. (More milage out of evapo-rust). Vinegar can also work but it will also eat at metal beyond the rust. Leave it in for too long and the tools will be damaged.
 

Eric Brown

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Here are a couple, probably made by patternmakers. The one on top is brass, copper steel and wood. Can handle blades of any length up to 16" Unmarked, but very nicely done. The lower saw is steel, brass and leather. Can only take 12" blades. Also nicely done. It is marked but I can't make out the full name. Can anyone identify either one?

Pattern 1.jpg


Pattern 2.jpg

Pattern 3.jpg
 

Eric Brown

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Here is a meat hacksaw (butcher saw). It is marked across the back with "Hook-Eye" Trade Mark - A.S.Co. Owners Never Sold
and then Patented Mar. 27, 1934 Other Pats Pending. Down on the tensioning lever it has Pat.- 38 and on the other side where the lever attaches Pat. June 1935. The saw blade is 17" long, hole to hole. A little research shows that A.S. Co. is the Atlantic Service Company. They are still in business and out of England. There are no patents listed in DATAMP so these are probably English patents.

Hookeye Left.jpg

Hookeye Right.jpg

Hookeye Back 1.jpg

Hookeye Back 2.jpg

Hookeye Lever 1.jpg

Hookeye Lever 2.jpg
 

Eric Brown

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Here is a group of hacksaw made for cutting sheet metal. First up is a Edison Steel Works Cleveland OH with a 12" blade. On the back, right side, is stamped "Young Rip, The Mechanics Saw, it's all in the blade angle. Adjustable tension.

Edison 1.jpg

IMG_3154.JPG

Edison 3.jpg

Edison 4.jpg

An Eclipse Model 55 with 12" blade. Made and Patented in Sheffield England, #721074. Tension not adjustable.

Eclipse 1.jpg

Finally a C.E. Jennings 18". Etched on the blade: C.E. Jennings & Co., No. 10, Metal Cutting Saw, FOR, Copper Smiths - Metal Work - & Carpenters, This Saw Can Be Filed, New York - USA. Note the handle hang is lower than a regular woodworking saw.

Jennings 1.jpg

Jennings 2.jpg
 

four.cycle

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Mr. Brown -

You most certainly have some interesting specimens.

I've hit a dead end on the "NeverSold" unit, and I think you may be correct in assuming it is British-made, but that's just a guess.

The "W.Y. Roh??" is a mystery. Perhaps British as well? Did you check gracesguide.co.uk yet?

The Eclipse British Patent doesn't come up at datamp.org, and I'm not adept at searching foreign patents myself.

Edison / Edison Steel Works, 1635 E. 55th St., Cleveland, OH / "Young Rip" hacksaw / TM 336183 Jun 30 1936 Marshall Beymer first use Aug 5 1935 /

Not sure, but it looks like Mr. Beymer may have been involved in ventures other than hacksaws.
 

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isb cornbinder

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I have a hacksaw frame for every blade pitch i use. This way, I can avoid having to change blades for a pitch change.
About 10 years ago, I bought a KELLER POWER HACKSAW from a Craigslist seller. I got a good deal. Well, I thought $150 was the right amount.
Keller has been on my list of tools I want to own before I kick the scrap bucket. The Keller vice is an ingenious design. I changed the Keller from 3 phase to 220V single phase and added a magnetic switch for a new Baldor Motor.
I have been having trouble finding an affordable blade for this saw. One of the neighborhood clowns was cutting his junk when the junk jumped out of the vice and snapped my new Starrett blade. Maybe I and wishing for a fried chicken to fly into my mouth, but I think a blade should not cost $25 or more, for one blade. I don't get it either. I pay hundreds for a Baldor and my **** slams shut over a $25 sawblade.
 

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