Hein Werner OS
- Thread starter Elroy
- Start date
tatra
Well-known member
yes please.....................
Junkman
Well-known member
If you want to practice, I will send my jack to you to do also. I just don't have the patience like you do to do a good job rebuilding it.
Its a shame someone would let a piece of equipment get that bad, When someone brings something into my shop that looks like that i dont even let them unload it. Better hope there was a higher ratio of oil than water inside that jack while it was sitting in the dirt, Mud etc. Good luck.
It's been inside its entire life. That's all body shop dust. This particular Hein Werner belongs to a old friend. The jack came from his Grandfather who ran a used car lot. The old guy passed on several years ago, I think he was in his 90's. After seeing Elroy's jack, this friend asked Elroy if he would restore it as a tribute.
It's a paying job and Elroy will be lucky if he makes $5 an hour doing it. We meet the ol guy several times over the years. He was a real good ole boy. Elroy is looking forward to the project because his friend is going to appreciate it.
He's done several things for Elroy over the years and it's time to repay.
The jack is complete, not locked up and still works. It's got the classic leak and some dirt to boot.
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tatra
Well-known member
elroy, will be checking my own jack later this day.........where is the model number stamped on that thing?...........
Wow.. Never seen a body shop that was so dirty that it would fill the casters with that much dust? Regardless, those are nice simple jacks and soft parts are standard size and readily available. If you spend as much time on that one as you did the earlier one i would estimate you will make about $2.50 a hour repairing a 1 1/4 ton jack, But if its sentimental to its owner and a buddy i can see the reasoning. Have fun and stay away from the teflon tape... Its not needed and can only cause problems down the road.
The O,OS,O-boy along with the bigger W, WS model Hein werners had a id tag near on the main support near the lifting pad, You can see the tag in both of his pictures.
tatra
Well-known member
just took a closer look at mine and the tag is not a plate..........was a decal i guess and worn off........differences are the movable casters are welded to the side of the body and the cylinder is welded to the valve block, which looks much more like a bottle jack instead of a hydraulic cylinder.............also the pump mechanism doesn't use the roller system, more like a yoke affair..........jack was 1.5 ton and i bought it brand new in 85 i believe..........still works but does leak down a bit now..........looking forward to elroy's rebuild on this one.........
Yep there is a tag on the main lift arm but after all these years it doesn't say much. You can still see some of the original orange paint.
After a trip to the car wash it looks a "little" better but there's a lot of clean up work still left. You can see the steel plate in the right hand side of this view is bent. This little thing has been used. The whole thing is going to be split open so the plate can go into a press and get straightened. This is going to take some work !
Tell me there Hiball:
We're only assuming at this point it's a model OS. Do you have any pointers on how to make a solid model identification?
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Would you mind taking some pics? I can most certainly identify for you and also provide rebuild kits if Needed/Wanted.
Im mainly going by the size of the jack frame compared to the WS, Im not at the shop but but i think there is very little difference between a o and Ws. 2500lb and 3000lbs if i remember they have the same Ram diameter, and the only difference was the age and frame size. Compare the diameter of the ram between the two, Lemme know.
I don't think the rams are the same diameter but they could be. I'll have Elroy measure them up and advise.
Hiball: PM Elroy if you would be interested in supplying a rebuild kit. He would rather deal with a board member than someone unknown.
Hiball: PM Elroy if you would be interested in supplying a rebuild kit. He would rather deal with a board member than someone unknown.
-B-
Well-known member
I have an old NAPA I need to reseal
A little follow up Elroy, I believe what you have is a O-boy cant really verify account i dont have any breakdowns for the O,OS but they are also a 1 1/4 ton jack and use the same kit as the O-boy so im assuming the only difference is Serial numbers which determine the Time Frame. Another member from this Site just dropped off a O-boy to be rebuilt thursday. His is identical and Still has the Readable tag and its identical to yours.
-B-
Well-known member
Thanks i am a bit occupied at the time now to dig the beast out I will in a week or so.
Excellent. Thank you kindly for the advise. Nothing like having a seasoned professional looking over ones shoulder.
Nice:
Release valve is not jambed
Saddle retaining pin. Looks like the lower "anti-tilt" linkage is retained by a hog ring. Good-ole farm boy repair.
Both jacks require some common sense to rebuild but by far the Napa is the trickiest. Mainly because the tank nut (spanner) is a Bish to get off. Many years and Many Homemade tools later we have solved this problem. But I own just about every Spanner wrench that is made and have yet to find one that will loosen that nut. I have had many people bring there jack in after trying to use Punches, Pipe wrenches only to be sent away because that Tank nut is a OBSOLETE item and if you Muck up the sealing area it will Leak forever...... I dont care how much silicone, gasket maker you throw at it. Lincoln near the end of there run finally went to a socket Nut and **** canned the spanner stlye. (Me claps and applaudes.) If your Napa jack is new enough to have the Socket Nut, congrats! If not I feel your pain. Btw Elroy what did you use to seat (tighten) the pump housing on that W or Ws you previously worked on? it requires a Special tool to do it correctly but can be done with other tools if caution and common sense is used.
Are you talking about the brass packing nut or the cast iron cap that forms one end of the fluid reservoir and accepts the packing nut?
Regardless. They were both set with a drift punch
Common sense???
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Are you talking about the brass packing nut or the cast iron cap that forms one end of the fluid reservoir and accepts the packing nut?
Regardless. They were both set with a drift punch
Common sense???
That is actually called a "Tank NUT" and alot of people do use Punches to tighten the Brass compression nut but the use off a Face Spanner is the Proper tool for the job. Problem with using a Punch is that you have very little feel of how tight you are compressing the packing and it is designed to be gradually tightened to get the most wear out of the packing, as it softens up over repeated use of the jack. Using a Punch on the actual Tank nut is a wee bit iffy account those fingers are Cast and with age get somewhat brittle and a few wacks in the wrong spot could and does break them. Proper tool there would be the proper sized Pin spanner or a flex Hoook spanner. If you notice on the o-boy your doing now it has 4 holes for a Pin spanner. Where i prefer to use this tool..http://cgi.ebay.com/Facom-Adjustable-1-1-2-to-9-3-4-Pin-Spanner-Wrench-New_W0QQitemZ370197243646QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563179a6fe
The actual Piece i was questioning is actually on the Pump and sits below the Spring and housing and screws into the base. It has 2 little notches at the top.
Got it, You're talking about the pump plunger guide
Yep. Special tool application. We tried to remove it and messed the slot up a little. The bore in the guide fit the plunger well so we left it alone on the WS.
We hope the pump guide on the O-Boy is in good enough shape to leave it in place as well.
This is the actual piece that i was referencing. This is what happens when Punches are used instead of Proper tools as you can see by the mushrooming of the the ****, Its not your fault.. and Im not saying your doing anything wrong but, I am trying to make sure Obsolete pieces are not being tore up for your sake. Regardless the kit you put in your jack should last you many years if used correctly. Nice Job again on your previous jack.
Yep a face spanner would have been nice to have. That would have been the ideal tool for sure!
-B-
Well-known member
We hope this exercise is both encouraging as well as helpful on your pending rebuild
I hope so too as this is a bit foreign territory.....
goodfellow
Well-known member
Great post Elroy!!! Many thanks to HiBall as well -- much appreciated guys!!
So the disassembly and splitting of the frame continues
Remove the clip that retains the front wheels
Grind off the rivet head that hold the "axle clips"
Drive out the rivet
Flip over and repeat
Remove the axle
Now there is a pile of parts:
That's enough for today. Time to clean up. Hope you all enjoyed today's little project. Stick around because there is LOTS more to come.
Tune in again next week won't ya.
Same Bat Time
Same Bat Channel
Remove the clip that retains the front wheels
Grind off the rivet head that hold the "axle clips"
Drive out the rivet
Flip over and repeat
Remove the axle
Now there is a pile of parts:
That's enough for today. Time to clean up. Hope you all enjoyed today's little project. Stick around because there is LOTS more to come.
Tune in again next week won't ya.
Same Bat Time
Same Bat Channel
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bushhawg73
Well-known member
Really nice post, I did not know there was so much to a jack. Keep the info coming Elroy.
We had a little time this afternoon so we went ahead and opened up the ram.
This needs to get cleaned out.
The one side plate has a nice bend it. That will go into the press this coming week. This little jack sure has seen some service over the years.
This needs to get cleaned out.
The one side plate has a nice bend it. That will go into the press this coming week. This little jack sure has seen some service over the years.
Iron-Iceberg
Well-known member
Thanks for the pictures Elroy, I have a O-Boy that I got from my Grandpa that has a slow leak that I need to fix and the pictures sure help.
And Hiball I might need some part also. One of these days.
And Hiball I might need some part also. One of these days.
hdtech
New member
Hey!
I found you guys by researching floor jacks. A couple of questions for some
H-W WS floor jacks I inherited.
1 Mid 80's and most likely never rebuilt.
2 One has a slow leak when heavily loaded. I stood on it and Mom jacked it up and no movement. But I ain't no car either.
3 I was going to power wash them and replace the hydra-fluid and do a general once over.
4 Any tips or recommendations on fluids/greases?
5 I was suprised to see they were only 1.5 ton, cause they are built like tanks and we had lifted alot of full size cars and trucks with them.
I am really digging the rebuild pictures! WOWIE
bowdown:
I found you guys by researching floor jacks. A couple of questions for some
H-W WS floor jacks I inherited.
1 Mid 80's and most likely never rebuilt.
2 One has a slow leak when heavily loaded. I stood on it and Mom jacked it up and no movement. But I ain't no car either.
3 I was going to power wash them and replace the hydra-fluid and do a general once over.
4 Any tips or recommendations on fluids/greases?
5 I was suprised to see they were only 1.5 ton, cause they are built like tanks and we had lifted alot of full size cars and trucks with them.
I am really digging the rebuild pictures! WOWIE
bowdown:Could be numerous things but the first place to look is the Ram cup, It could have a bad spot that is letting oil by under heavy load, Secondly the Seat could be bad, not allowing the ball to stop the flow of oil under heavy load, In the same area it could be the Spring has lost its tension and is allowing the ball to raise under load. Without actual inspection of the forementioned areas its nearly impossible to determine what the actual problem is. Could be something as simple as a piece of leather has made its way from the resevoire to the valve assembly and is stuck on the ball not allowing a good seat, But then you have to find out where the leather came from.... Possibly the Ram cup deteriorating? Hmmm... its contageous i tell you.
I used to use alot of ****** fluid because it was cheap and nearly the same weight as hydraulic jack oil, Only problem i have ever encountered is during cold weather, I soley use Hydraulic Oil only now for the anti foaming, and better all around temperature usage.
While Frame size is important the main contributing factor is Ram Diameter and material to workin tonnage.
Hope this helps.
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Hiball's input is much appreciated as he has been through a lot more of these things than Elroy.
Lets put some numbers to these models for reference and identification:
The larger WS series jacks, rated at 1-1/2 ton (3,000 pound)
The dimension inside the frame on WS is 6-3/4"
1-1/2" Diameter piston.
**************************************
The smaller OS or O'Boy jacks are 5-1/4" between frame plates. We understand these jacks are rated at 1-1/4 ton (2,500) pounds
The OS ram piston diameter is 1-1/4"
It appears that BOTH jacks have the same 11/16" diameter plunger.
hdtech
New member
Hey thanks for the replies!
Last time I was at Mom's she said do you want the jacks?
I was like "Jacks" you mean the floor jacks? She said yeah the floor jacks.
I thought she gave them away or my Brother-Inlaw snagged them. NOPE!
Went out in the garage and under 2 old picnic benches were the WS-1.5's.
I always thought they were 3 or 4 ton jacks.???
If these things could talk!
So can I power wash them? and just try to do a fluid exhange and hope for the best? Any other lube points??? I have to pick them up next week and was wondering what to do.
I looked in my local yellow pages not really anything there
So I am just going to go for it. I have the PDF for the jack from the place in Ohio. http://www.ohiohydraulic.com/hein-werner drawing page.htm
So do I need a gallon or quart. Any jack fluid/Hein Werner only/synthetic?
Thanks again!
PS: That picture of the jack you are rebuilding...whew my Dad would have kicked my **** to the moon. Are you sure they weren't jacking up tractors out in the field?
Last time I was at Mom's she said do you want the jacks?
I was like "Jacks" you mean the floor jacks? She said yeah the floor jacks.
I thought she gave them away or my Brother-Inlaw snagged them. NOPE!
Went out in the garage and under 2 old picnic benches were the WS-1.5's.
I always thought they were 3 or 4 ton jacks.???
If these things could talk!
So can I power wash them? and just try to do a fluid exhange and hope for the best? Any other lube points??? I have to pick them up next week and was wondering what to do.
I looked in my local yellow pages not really anything there
So I am just going to go for it. I have the PDF for the jack from the place in Ohio. http://www.ohiohydraulic.com/hein-werner drawing page.htm
So do I need a gallon or quart. Any jack fluid/Hein Werner only/synthetic?
Thanks again!
PS: That picture of the jack you are rebuilding...whew my Dad would have kicked my **** to the moon. Are you sure they weren't jacking up tractors out in the field?
hdtech
New member
Oh Elroy I almost forgot. Have you considered getting a machinist to make you the tool to remove/repair the plunger guide? I had done this back in the day when I used to rebuild pumps. Showed the guy what I wanted to do and told him to make it a t-handle with 3/8ths drive. He made it right up and did a EDM for the 3/8ths socket fittings. Worked like a dream and pretty reasonable too.
Power washing isnt gonna hurt the jack account it is a completely sealed unit, but its also not gonna remedy any problems it has also, As far as the fluid change... Its kinda like a Automatic Transmission your not gonna get all the oil out let alone the gunk that is residing inside the resevoir. (See elroys pics of the Brown/Sticky/gunk im refering too) Each jack will take less than 1 quart of fluid so just buy a couple quarts of Hydraulic jack oil and be done and Hope it doesnt all leak out.