Hein Werner OS

[SmanPlymouth]

New here. Nice job on the jack. Just picked up what I believe is an OS model 2500. Pumps up and holds at about eight inches. Have yet to bleed out old fluid and refill, bleed. Aside from the plate which is a bit damaged, is there another location for positive ID for resto parts? Paid $15 for it. I need another in the garage. So any help will be great. Thanks, Steve

 

[Roberts210]

Does this look like the proper filler plug that goes in the back of the pump body underneath the cover?

I have a plan for making a impact socket fit the tank nut. I'll post a picture if it's a success. If not I'll probably slink off and just use a big pipe wrench.

 

[Hiball]

Not a factory plug, just so there is no confusion, the tank nut is the outer nut, the brass piece is the inner compression nut that sets the packing Rod pressure. Didn't want you to waste time making a socket to fit the brass one.

 

[Roberts210]

Thanks HiBall. This brass plug is built like a banjo-bolt, that is there is a hole through the threaded part that comes out the side. It leaked--no surprise there. I assume the real one doesn't have a hole in it?

Actually I was going to take an old thin-wall socket and cut it to fit the compression nut.

 

[Hiball]

Thanks HiBall. This brass plug is built like a banjo-bolt, that is there is a hole through the threaded part that comes out the side. It leaked--no surprise there. I assume the real one doesn't have a hole in it?

Actually I was going to take an old thin-wall socket and cut it to fit the compression nut.

The plug is simply a breather, I sold them for years as a metal replacement to the older plastic plugs. The factory system on the OS/WS was sealed that utilized a small round headed bolt/seal. A face spanner will make quick work of that inner nut, you can see signs of someone using a punch.

 

[Roberts210]

Yes, I noticed the punch damage. Somebody did mess with this jack, but it worked well when I have tested it. Leaks tho.

So it's ok to keep the breather then.

 

[Hiball]

So it's ok to keep the breather then.

I would go back stock, Since the fill hole is so low, I suspect any swaying of oil from moving the Jack is going to be a constant leak point.

 

[MikefromD]

Hein Werner WS

In 1976 I bought a Hein Werner WS 1 1/2 ton and used to carry it around in the trunk of my 57 Chevy. Lost the spring clip that kept the pins out on the handle and my friend after clunking his knuckles on the cement too many times welded the pins in place so you couldn't take the handle off any more. I went on a road trip and wanted to take a jack so I borrowed another friends H.W. 1 1/4 ton as his handle could still come off. While in my use I broke something on it so I gave him mine. Couple years later I bought another and still have it today although it developed a major leak problem which turned out to be corrosion pitting on the main ram. I took the ram into the shop I work at and showed it to some friends who work with lathes to see if they could help make another and all they could do was talk about what you can get at Harbor Freight for $59. So I tried the braze welding technique to see if I could get it smooth enough to seal on the outside. I messed up and forgot to take some good pictures of it before I put it back together but I do have some pics of the wrenches I made to get the tank nut off and on and a wrench for the seal screw.
This article has pretty good pictures which are mostly the same as a WS. I noticed the OS has bushings for the pins in the handle while my WS has the bushings in the sides of the jack.
I found a slightly larger than 3" piece of pipe and welded some 1/4" rounds on the inside. I did it mostly from memory and was thinking of it in fours having eight spaces but it was twelve spaces so I had to grind most of one set of four off. ( insert Homer Simpson "DOH" ) welded a bunch of whatever around it so I could put a handle on it.

 

[Roberts210]

Well I don't feel so bad now about my home-made tank-nut wrench. A year or so ago I went into an OSH hardware store (West coast chain) that was closing. They were selling off their tools at $1 each. I picked up a dozen impact sockets, including this one which is a 35 mm axle nut. So to make my wrench I welded two hefty washers together, drilled 3 holes, and stuck in 3 grade-5 bolts. I made sure they would fit into the recesses in the tank nut and then welded the bolts in place, and welded the 35 mm socket to the washer. I chucked it all up in my Milwaukee impact wrench and fired that baby up and OFF the tank nut came.

Total cost less than $5.

 

[469 runner]

That is some ingenious thinking there making those tools. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[Roberts210]

I just got some more time in the shop and made the spanner wrench to remove the brass packing nut. I used a piece of T-beam from an old steel frame window.

It fits perfectly.

 

[KatanaKid]

I just got some more time in the shop and made the spanner wrench to remove the brass packing nut. I used a piece of T-beam from an old steel frame window.

It fits perfectly.

How cool is that ! Is there a tool loan program on this board ?
I just ordered my seal kit and will make good use of those , if its possible

 

[Roberts210]

The pins are 1 & 5/8ths apart, center to center.

 

[Roberts210]

KatanaKid, check your PM's.

 

[Roberts210]

Hiball, do I absolutely have to remove the cylinder tube? I'm thinking I might be able to put the ram in from the top and leave the cylinder tube in place. But will that even work?

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, do I absolutely have to remove the cylinder tube? I'm thinking I might be able to put the ram in from the top and leave the cylinder tube in place. But will that even work?

Sure you can put the Ram in from the top, that's how it came out. The most important thing is to make sure the New leather piston cup is crimped to prevent damage when installing in the bore. Cylinder leakage from the base is very rare, even on units that utilize seals due to the amount of torque involved from the factory.

 

[Roberts210]

Great! Thanks. I'll try it.

 

[Roberts210]

What happens if the nut that holds down the leather cup is overtightened? I'm not sure I overtightened mine, but I was holding the ram in my hand and tightening the nut with my impact wrench--I was allowing the ram to slip and rotate in my hand while running the impact wrench. Now the nut looks like it might have tightened down a little more than before I removed it, but I'm not sure. Should I loosen it, inspect it, and retighten it to specific torque?

 

[Roberts210]

And what is this hole for in the upper left? When I removed the slotted plug there was only a rubber "piston" below it, with nothing underneath the piston. No spring, no ball, nothing. The jack worked before I disassembled it.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Great! Thanks. I'll try it.

I had some trouble trying to get my leather cup back into the bore, so I flipped it & pushed it into the bore. Then I soaked it in jack oil for a day. This made it conform more to the bore. It still was a ****** to reinstall.

 

[Hiball]

What happens if the nut that holds down the leather cup is overtightened? I'm not sure I overtightened mine, but I was holding the ram in my hand and tightening the nut with my impact wrench--I was allowing the ram to slip and rotate in my hand while running the impact wrench. Now the nut looks like it might have tightened down a little more than before I removed it, but I'm not sure. Should I loosen it, inspect it, and retighten it to specific torque?

I've never used a impact, if you overtighten the nut/washer it can deform/draw the face of the piston seal in. I normally just hand tighten the nut, stake the nut on the inside near the thread and call it good.

 

[Hiball]

And what is this hole for in the upper left? When I removed the slotted plug there was only a rubber "piston" below it, with nothing underneath the piston. No spring, no ball, nothing. The jack worked before I disassembled it.

Depending on the Era, that more than likely the overload. Should be a splined adjustment under the rubber piston seal.

 

[Hiball]

I had some trouble trying to get my leather cup back into the bore, so I flipped it & pushed it into the bore. Then I soaked it in jack oil for a day. This made it conform more to the bore. It still was a ****** to reinstall.

A crimping die makes quick work of leather piston seals, from the factory they are flared, once properly crimped they slide in the bore rather easily. If you have problems inserting them in the bore, STOP and soak/crimp some more. Otherwise you will damage the sealing face and the Jack will ever seal properly.

 

[Roberts210]

Good idea ex-x.

 

[Roberts210]

Thanks Hiball. I soaked this leather for 5-6 days.

Trouble was I couldn't remove it with just a ratchet, and I didn't want to chuck it up in a vise, hence the impact wrench to loosen the nut. Then when I was putting it back on, I couldn't get it past the staked area with just a ratchet holding it in my hand, so I used the impact to run it back on. I'll pull it and see if I messed it up.

 

[Roberts210]

And where is the overload valve? I can't seem to find one on this jack.

 

[Hiball]

And where is the overload valve? I can't seem to find one on this jack.

Post #302

 

[Roberts210]

Sorry, I didn't see that Hiball. There was no splined adjustment under the rubber cap. Nothing fell out when I disassembled it. Shining a light down there I don't see a hole at the bottom for a ball to press against. I doubt I'll be overloading this jack, so maybe I'm OK?

 

[Hiball]

Sorry, I didn't see that Hiball. There was no splined adjustment under the rubber cap. Nothing fell out when I disassembled it. Shining a light down there I don't see a hole at the bottom for a ball to press against. I doubt I'll be overloading this jack, so maybe I'm OK?

It's there, the spline adjusting screw has a flat top so it's hard to see, nothing fell out, nor did you see a hole because all the components/seat are Below that splined adjusting screw. The spline is a factory tool, so just reassemble and go on about your business.

 

[Roberts210]

Great! Thanks Hiball. I (and so many others here) could never have rebuilt our jacks without your help.

 

[crab]

Hiball, how far are you from St Louie ?

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, how far are you from St Louie ?

Roughly a hour and a half, I live just NE of Columbia.

 

[crab]

OK, thanks. I've been on the lookout for a nice old jack to restore. I might do everything except the hydraulics when I find one and get you to do that. Not to far to drive.

 

[Roberts210]

The spring at the bottom of the picture is the new one that came in my kit from Hydraulic Parts Supply. The one on top is the one I pulled out of the jack. Question is, which one should I use?

 

[Hiball]

The spring at the bottom of the picture is the new one that came in my kit from Hydraulic Parts Supply. The one on top is the one I pulled out of the jack. Question is, which one should I use?

Either one, the springs on these jacks is only to aid in seating the ball quicker, thus a crisper action. It's not a vital part of the operation, as long as there is constant tension between the plug and ball or balls in the case of the lower/upper ball.

 

[Roberts210]

That makes sense. Yes there are two balls--the other new spring is the same size as the old one. Thx.

 

[Roberts210]

Is there supposed to be an o-ring or gasket to go between the release valve and the unit itself? My kit didn't have anything that size.

 

[Hiball]

Is there supposed to be an o-ring or gasket to go between the release valve and the unit itself? My kit didn't have anything that size.

No, there is a piece of packing in the topside of the release mechanism that requires dissesembly to install, Nothing on the bottom.

 

[Roberts210]

Ok. Thanks.

 

[Roberts210]

Is it OK to leave the pump guide in place and insert the pump ram through the bottom of the hole? Will the threads there tear up the small cup?