Homemade Tools

[Vividlyvintage]

The wires are razor sharp and spinning, and they are a lot wider than a cutoff wheel.

It did hurt like all get out, but it looks worse than it is. Took a while for the skin to fill back in, and I still have discoloration in the same place and shape. The photo is from March of this year.

BTW, I was cleaning a small metal tool box. Those sheet metal edges can REALLY catch the brush and throw the tool around. The grinder is a 15yr old Makita 4 inch angle grinder. Wheel was a medium steel knotted twist. It just hit me for the instant it took to jump and hit my arm.

Moral of the story, be careful!

zuk

Ouch! I hate these electric grinders.. they scare the **** out of me. I wish i could afford an air compressor.. even though they are equally dangerous, once you let go of the throttle it at least starts to drop in rpm. But that looks like it hurt man... ouch.

thanks,
Douglas Johnson
"Skrach"
www.VividlyVintage.com

 

[jrlp]

Don't be afraid of small 4.5" grinders. Grab it hard, and don't let go! I think I've probably spent years of my life behind one. The ones you need to be scared of are 7"+ ones. I have a 7" grinder that was given to me by a buddy, after he knocked 14 teeth out with it. He was under a Chevy cutting off a frame mount, bound the blade, and the head kicked him in the face. He lost 6 teeth on top and 8 on bottom. I've caught the blade and shattered them about 3 times now. That tool commands RESPECT.

 

[Vividlyvintage]

Don't be afraid of small 4.5" grinders. Grab it hard, and don't let go! I think I've probably spent years of my life behind one. The ones you need to be scared of are 7"+ ones. I have a 7" grinder that was given to me by a buddy, after he knocked 14 teeth out with it. He was under a Chevy cutting off a frame mount, bound the blade, and the head kicked him in the face. He lost 6 teeth on top and 8 on bottom. I've caught the blade and shattered them about 3 times now. That tool commands RESPECT.

Yikes! I have used pneumatic grinders for years. I just recently started using the electric ones. You definitely have to be on your guard with the electric ones. I wont even touch a 7" lol

thanks,
Douglas Johnson
"Skrach"
www.VividlyVintage.com

 

[Alchymist]

Don't be afraid of small 4.5" grinders. Grab it hard, and don't let go! I think I've probably spent years of my life behind one. The ones you need to be scared of are 7"+ ones. I have a 7" grinder that was given to me by a buddy, after he knocked 14 teeth out with it. He was under a Chevy cutting off a frame mount, bound the blade, and the head kicked him in the face. He lost 6 teeth on top and 8 on bottom. I've caught the blade and shattered them about 3 times now. That tool commands RESPECT.

You ought to try the 9 inch one. Talk about removing stock.....

 

[zuk123]

Don't be afraid of small 4.5" grinders. Grab it hard, and don't let go! ...

I'll second that! You can't be tentative with any tool. Read the manual, rehearse the action if you have to, and do it.

I've got 2x dewalt and one Milwaukee 4.5" and 2x Makita 4 in. I like the 4" as a little lighter, more maneuverable, and smaller (easier for my stubby fingers.) I have different wheels on each.

I'd recommend using the extra handle when possible, and using 2 hands, but that said, I usually don't. One thing I can't stand is seeing one used with the guard removed. If you absolutely can't make the cut with the guard on, replace it as soon as you are finished. (But also consider that you might not have the right tool for the job if you have to remove manuf' designed parts.) The guard is there to protect you from inadvertent contact with the blade, and from shrapnel if a blade comes apart.

As for the big boys, I've used them in the shop, and if you are doing big material you need a big grinder, but I can't think of a need for one in a home shop. Not worth the risks. They will F you up.

One last hidden danger. It's becoming clear in industry that long term use of tools with a lot of vibration can lead to permanent nerve damage. Please consider buying a new grinder with reduced vibration, or wearing anti-vibe gloves. Like hearing, eye, or lung protection, wear it every time even for the quick stuff.

As you use your new grinder, like any tool, you will gain confidence and skill. No need for fear, but a big need for caution and respect.

zuk

 

[ndoran]

Don't be afraid of small 4.5" grinders. Grab it hard, and don't let go! I think I've probably spent years of my life behind one. The ones you need to be scared of are 7"+ ones. I have a 7" grinder that was given to me by a buddy, after he knocked 14 teeth out with it. He was under a Chevy cutting off a frame mount, bound the blade, and the head kicked him in the face. He lost 6 teeth on top and 8 on bottom. I've caught the blade and shattered them about 3 times now. That tool commands RESPECT.

I nearly cut my arm off with a 9 inch grinder 12 years ago after the blade caught in a piece of rebar whil cutting concrete. I have a scar on my left forearm that is still visible. I cut part the way through the bone and was in surgery for 2 hours. I was fortunate I did remained conscious and control the bleeding so I could walk over to a neighbour and get help. Fortunately I still have full use of my arm and hand, just a little numbness in the arm itself.

 

[Hetman]

The wires are razor sharp and spinning, and they are a lot wider than a cutoff wheel.

It did hurt like all get out, but it looks worse than it is. Took a while for the skin to fill back in, and I still have discoloration in the same place and shape. The photo is from March of this year.

BTW, I was cleaning a small metal tool box. Those sheet metal edges can REALLY catch the brush and throw the tool around. The grinder is a 15yr old Makita 4 inch angle grinder. Wheel was a medium steel knotted twist. It just hit me for the instant it took to jump and hit my arm.

Moral of the story, be careful!

zuk

If you use brush with 11krpm, I have no words...
1st, much slower!
2nd, use overload protection set at less then full power - grinder stops instead of catching and destroying sth./hurting smb.


And yes, always be careful, but also think what you do.


PS: Guys, is this "who has bigger balls?" contest? I won't ever touch a grinder bigger than 5", they're too dangerous for occasional use.

 

[Jim Stabe]

I have a 9" grinder and the only thing I use it for is to turn a stainless shrinking disc. No danger of catching it, it just rides along the surface.

 

[Captain-Matt]

9" at work. No need for one at home. Use with slitting disks, grinding and softpad (big disk of sandpaper with seperate plastic backing, don't know what you guys call them across the pond)

I would however, not go anywhere near a cupbrush made for a 9".

We frequently use 4" in our workshop, dinky little things you can comfortably use with one hand if using the soft pad.

 

[nine4gmc]

I didn't make it but here is a Williams 1009 & 1010 "Superrench" welded together at almost 28" long and 7 lbs.

 

[zuk123]

^^ that is one big wrench!

zuk

 

[dr.gizmo]

Would you mind posting some details about the construction/ design? Please explain the process? How does it compare to an Air lift unit?

It works on the exact same principal as an Air Lift. The difference is that the pipes act as a tank that draws coolant from the bottom of the radiator tank, then I have a home made manifold attached to an old radiator pressure tester head. The "tank" is made from 8, 2"' sections of 2" schedule 40 PVC connected in a spiral by a series of elbows. The Vacuum source is a Harbor Freight air operated vacuum pump for A/C systems. The vacuum pump is attached to the top of the spiral of pipes and the hose to draw the coolant and vacuum on the cooling system is attached to the bottom.

To operate you place the hose down the radiator tank and turn on the vacuum. The coolant is drawn into the pipes. When the radiator is empty I attach the cap adapter to the radiator and pull a vacuum on the system. I let the system sit closed for a couple of minutes to make sure there are no leaks, this I know if there is no vacuum decay. I then place a hose attached to the cap adapter and open a valve which allows the new coolant to be drawn into the cooling system. The system is filled with no air and in a few minutes. I used the original tool for 12 years with no problems.

 

[86k10]

Here is my homemade tool or shopmade more like it. It is a Isuzu 6HK1 common rail injection injector puller. Also will work with 4HK1. I use to pull them with a pair of Vise Grips but it is a half *** way to pull them and you damage them a little when doing it that way. This is a good way if you had to pull them out and reuse the same injectors. It is two bolts welded together and a little wheel as a slide hammer.

 

[Hetman]

It works on the exact same principal as an Air Lift. The difference is that the pipes act as a tank that draws coolant from the bottom of the radiator tank, then I have a home made manifold attached to an old radiator pressure tester head. The "tank" is made from 8, 2"' sections of 2" schedule 40 PVC connected in a spiral by a series of elbows. The Vacuum source is a Harbor Freight air operated vacuum pump for A/C systems. The vacuum pump is attached to the top of the spiral of pipes and the hose to draw the coolant and vacuum on the cooling system is attached to the bottom.

To operate you place the hose down the radiator tank and turn on the vacuum. The coolant is drawn into the pipes. When the radiator is empty I attach the cap adapter to the radiator and pull a vacuum on the system. I let the system sit closed for a couple of minutes to make sure there are no leaks, this I know if there is no vacuum decay. I then place a hose attached to the cap adapter and open a valve which allows the new coolant to be drawn into the cooling system. The system is filled with no air and in a few minutes. I used the original tool for 12 years with no problems.

Could you show modified caps?

 

[jrlp]

You ought to try the 9 inch one. Talk about removing stock.....

That's how I feel about the 7". Being able to plasma gouge really put grinding on the back burner for the most part. I really only use it for cleaning up stock, smoothing plasma gouge / cut marks, and stuff like that. 99% of the time I pick up a grinder, it's either of the dedicated flap-disc one, or the wire wheel.

 

[maddawg308]

Made this one. I learned when doing informal gunsmithing on my own rifles that nothing makes a better drift punch surface than an old hockey puck. It's hard enough to support your work on it, but not so hard as to scratch your precious guns or other things you are trying to drift a pin out of.

Shown below is a virgin puck, with it's first hole drilled in it to start drifting pins out into it. As it gets older, and I use it for more pin sizes, it will get other holes of different sizes drilled into it as well.

 

[PCO6]

maddawg308 - ^^^ - That's a good idea! Just make sure you thaw them out before you use them. Hockey pucks are usually frozen for a week or so before they are used in "big league" games. They perform better when frozen.

 

[BARN ONE]

This is a press I built using a bottle jack.

And a lifting sling.

 

[ndoran]

some I made a long time ago

The orange stubby bit driver was made by fitting a MAC tools 1/4 inch bit holder into a stubby screwdriver handle.

The yellow handled 3/8 driver was made by inserting a 2/8 drive bit driver into the handle. The long bit driver was made from some 1/4 inch hex rod and inserting into a snap on handle. I pulled the end off a bit holder and hammered it onto the end. I did this for a water hose clamp, I can't even remember which car I made it for. The small 1/4 in handle was also made by fitting a handle to a bit that fits into a drill. The 10 inch long 1/4 inch extension allows you to fit a ratchet on to it. I drilled the handle to allow the extension to fit flush on the top of the handle.

The chrome pipe is my cheetah for ratchets it was a seat stem from a bicycle, yes it is chromed and the knurling provides great grip/ I found it in a garage sale but you can get them at a bike store

 

[newchris]

Im a diesel mechanic and this is a tool i made for removing installing the the springs on air brake shoes. works like a charm. (dont flame the hf pry/bar and box haha. the past two years i worked out of a service truck so id buy tools as i needed them, my new job has dealers and im buy more and more good tools.)

 

[mayday0017]

Well I had to install a ton of baseboards in the house over the weekend and remembered a tool I once saw someone using and decided it would make all of these coped cuts go faster and be easier. Not a whole lot to it but it sure did make things go much faster then using a standard coping saw and for me I was able to make better cuts too.... I basically took a piece of scrap MDF I had laying around and cut a window in it and then cut another scrap piece at a sharp angle and screwed the two together then ground the screw heads a little to make sure they were flush with the board so they wouldn't scratch or mar the new trim.

Once you have the jig made, nub your end like you normally would (I do it on the miter saw) Then clamp the jig to the trim as shown, pull out your jigsaw and start cutting the profile. Once you cut a few you will learn tricks such as cutting a relief cut first and cutting from detailed side to the long straight. All cuts are made using a fine tooth jigsaw blade preferably skinny on about medium speed.

See pictures attached

 

[maddawg308]

Came up with this idea, but I sold all mine before I saved any to use. I had 8,000 of these at one point, dealers bought them all....

These are military pack shelves for the ALICE backpacks. They are made out of aluminum and normally go over the rear cross-brace of the metal packframe to hold a radio, gas can, ammo cans, etc. They have a "lip" on one side, that would be great to slip over a lip on a tool chest or other fixed location, and the holes that are pre-drilled in the shelf to save weight, would be great for holding screwdrivers, awls, and similar items. They cost retail about $3-8 and are made of aircraft aluminum that has been black painted. I don't have anymore, sorry, so I can't show you how they work in this role, but I know they will.

 

[Lkdelta]

Made copies of stuff already available,
but a lot cheaper to construct it

The trailer dolly makes it easier to move the trailer around in the yard
Those 2 others are for rolling or lifting the firewood logs while I'm cutting them into blocks for splitting

 

[terryr]

Hi there. Here's a bunch of modified sockets I made. Most of them were used when I converted a car to EFI. A local pawn shop has bins full for a buck each.

Socket on a stick for a Ford diff cross pin, and half a socket with 2 screwdriver bits for Ford rear disc calipers, which have to be screwed in.

 

[thruthefence]

Cobbled this up from a set of throwaway Channellocks, & some scrap .125" steel strap. They're used to install those miserable Lucas bullet connectors on old English cars.

 

[nissan200sx]

thruthefence that is absolutly brillant,
i may have to make some tomorrow hope you dont mind

 

[thruthefence]

Don't thank me, thank the guy who designed the "official" tool for Lucas, (about $80.00 from the 'usual suppliers') that I unashamedly copied.

Here's a tip for tool vendors: If you have a "special tool", don't post such good photos of it on the internet!

 

[e-tek]

Here is an arbor I made so that I can rewind the 1# spools that we use in my school shop from the 35# rolls. It saves me quite a bit of money over the course of the year. It is powered by a 1/2" chuck drill and takes about 90 seconds to rewind. The wood handle stays stationary in your hand while the arbor spins inside it.

Funny how sometimes it comes to you and sometimes it don't....I made a 2-spool holder to do that very job, but it took too long to roll the spools by hand so I abandoned it.....


Here's some more of mine that DID work out:

Torch stand:

Flathead valve keeper hook punch (actually made this one for a GJ member):

Door installation holder:

Rotisserie:

 

[e-tek]

Jim (Stabe) you've made some great stuff!! I'm gonna try and copy your winch on the bead roller idea. Especially like the steering wheel handle - totally "ROD" !

 

[e-tek]

The wires are razor sharp and spinning, and they are a lot wider than a cutoff wheel.

It did hurt like all get out, but it looks worse than it is. Took a while for the skin to fill back in, and I still have discoloration in the same place and shape. The photo is from March of this year.

BTW, I was cleaning a small metal tool box. Those sheet metal edges can REALLY catch the brush and throw the tool around. The grinder is a 15yr old Makita 4 inch angle grinder. Wheel was a medium steel knotted twist. It just hit me for the instant it took to jump and hit my arm.

Moral of the story, be careful!

zuk

There's only ONE moral to handling angle grinders - and it's hold on TIGHT!!

 

[Jim Stabe]

Jim (Stabe) you've made some great stuff!! I'm gonna try and copy your winch on the bead roller idea. Especially like the steering wheel handle - totally "ROD" !

I have some more pictures and can explain it in more detail if you want. Let me know

Jim

 

[e-tek]

I have some more pictures and can explain it in more detail if you want. Let me know

Jim

ABSOLUTELY - Thanks! I'd say PM me on it, but I think there would be more than enough interest to either put it here, or even make it it's own thread. Just let me know if you do - I seem to miss a lot of the best threads!

 

[e-tek]

I love this thread - any more?

 

[Stephenw]

The wires are razor sharp and spinning, and they are a lot wider than a cutoff wheel.

It did hurt like all get out, but it looks worse than it is. Took a while for the skin to fill back in, and I still have discoloration in the same place and shape. The photo is from March of this year.

BTW, I was cleaning a small metal tool box. Those sheet metal edges can REALLY catch the brush and throw the tool around. The grinder is a 15yr old Makita 4 inch angle grinder. Wheel was a medium steel knotted twist. It just hit me for the instant it took to jump and hit my arm.

Moral of the story, be careful!

zuk

I've been using a 4" air angle grinder for wire brush work. It is less likely to get away. You need a big compressor to keep up with the air demand.

http://shopngarage.com/2010/08/4-air-angle-grinder/

 

[rslaback]

Time to bring this thread back to the top. . .

Quite often I am given tools from coworkers and friends that no longer function. Last year I was given a Craftsman 14.4v drill and flashlight set that "both batteries died." Turns out the cheap dumb charger took a ****. My solution to make the system usable is below. I took the top of an old DeWalt 12v pack and wired in a S connector to the battery terminals. Then I filled the pack top with epoxy. I also gutted the Craftsman charger and wired in a S connector to those terminals. Now to charge the Craftsman battery packs I hook what is left of the Craftsman charger to the adapter and put the adapter into the DeWalt charger.

It works like a charm and as a bonus, since the DeWalt is a smart charger, it doesn't cook the Craftsman batteries.

 

[e-tek]

Not really a home-made tool, but definitely re-purposed....

Hated golf - love welding!

 

[jmlcolorado]

I didn't make this, but I picked it up on Craig's from a guy who father did build it. $50 I couldn't have bought the material to male it myself for that much!

 

[PatDoody]

Made a 12" press brake for my harborfreight shop press. Easily bends 10g plate.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

PCO6,

Do you have a write up or more detail on the blast cabinet. I am very interested in building one and would like to know your set up. Thank you.

 

[PCO6]

Mohawk Dave - It's basically just a metal box made out of 18 guage galvanized sheet metal - lots of pop rivets and seam sealer. It has held up well since the early 80's. I have seen a lot of similar cabinets made out of plywood or MDF and I think they work just as well.

Initially I set it up for syphon feed blasting but I later altered it so it works with a pressure pot blaster as well. For syphon feed, the air inlet is via the black plate on the left side in the first picture. A hose on the inside connects directly to the sand blast gun and the sand intake hose drops down into the hopper. For pressure feed blasting I simply drilled a hole in the front panel to feed the nozzle through.

I tried several different lighting systems over the years. In the end the 2 halogen lights pictured below seem to work the best - plus they are small and inexpensive.

The window is tempered glass. I get a few sheets cut at a time at an auto glass shop. They last a few years - probably longer if I was more careful.

I plan to make a better stand for it with casters so I can move it around. When I do that I also want to redo the hopper. Sand and other media does drain out the bottom but making it "deeper" would make that much easier.

The vacuum system is basically a small shop vac that is connected to a 5 gal. pail. The pail has another hose that connects it to the cabinet. A cyclone effect is created in the pail when the vacuum is turned on. The pail has about 3" of water in the bottom and the vacuumed sand falls into the water. There are some photos of a similar system and a much better desription of it somewhere here on GJ - I believe in a thread on home made sand blaster cabinets.

I hope this helps.