boogerboy72
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2009
- Messages
- 212
holy cow @ the barrel tool.
- Thread starter Ryan
- Start date
This tool was made to pull dents out of wheels
Like this one. Can you show how it in action?[/QUOTE]
in the second pic, just push down on the handle. you can see the round stock in the first pic. prob need someone to stand on the rim
you are correct the fumes from muriatic acid are very corrosive and will produce rust on any bare steel. I had the same problem when I etched my garage floor prior to applyinng an epoxy coating. All the ungalvanised metalwork on my garage doors went rusty. Fortuntely I was wearing a respirator with acid cartridges to protect my lungs
Ditchdigger
Well-known member
This tool was made to pull dents out of wheels
Like this one. Can you show how it in action?[/QUOTE]
It works just like it looks. The handle is about 4 feet long so if you can keep the wheel from moving ( i had to park a car on one once) you can pull the dings out. It will leave a dent in the aluminum though.
compo7000
Member
Great welding
dabirdguy
Well-known member
I love tools, but when you don't have a lot of money you improvise.
My beadroller:
Hammer and clamp farm:
Extension for the cherrypicker to lift and move the truck cab:
Rotisserie:
My beadroller:
Hammer and clamp farm:
Extension for the cherrypicker to lift and move the truck cab:
Rotisserie:
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
I love tools, but when you don't have a lot of money you improvise.
My beadroller:
I like the driven bead roller,not sure the safety board would approve though.
I love tools, but when you don't have a lot of money you improvise.
Hammer and clamp farm:
What do you feed your hammers? I never thought about raising clamps... they seem to be a bit tempermental, but it looks like you've got them under control.
I like your bead roller as well... but be sure no inspectors come around that, they'll drop dead on the spot from the nonexistant guards
diesel research
Well-known member
I like your bead roller as well... but be sure no inspectors come around that, they'll drop dead on the spot from the nonexistant guards
If OSHA is coming around your house and private non-business garage, feel free to tell them to piss-off.
How many "scary" things have you saw in your/your friends garages?
On the other hand, i am a bit surprised my employer converted a air polisher/sander into a 7" guard-less angle grinder. Guess that's not as bad as the pic floating around with the chop saw blade attached.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Used to be I would throw out my expensive 6 inch cut off disks when they got to small in diameter for my electric grinder. T'ill the day I turned an adapter for my angle die grinder on my lathe.
Now I can get to those hard to get places and use up those disks to the end.
DOH!!!
Gotta watch that kickback!
Now I can get to those hard to get places and use up those disks to the end.
DOH!!!
Gotta watch that kickback!
I love tools, but when you don't have a lot of money you improvise.
My beadroller:
Another option for a powered variable speed attachment if yours is not.
Jim Stabe
Well-known member
I used a HF winch motor to power mine. I use one of the emergency jump start units to run it. One advantage is the spool release that allows you to disengage the motor and turn by hand for the intricate corners. I welded a socket on an old steering wheel to turn manually. The sprockets and chain are from Surplus Center. The cable spool was turned down to 1 1/4" dia and mounts a 1 1/4" id sprocket. I used the winch hand control to make a foot pedal (fwd and rev pedals) an idea I copied shamelessly from the internet.
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kcaz507
Well-known member
I was replacing some of the hand railing on my deck, and I was having some trouble getting the deck nails(the twisted shank kind) out on the 1x1's that support the hand rail without breaking the 1x1's, so I made this out of some pipe, angle iron, washers and a piston pin out of a 50 liter Cummins:
Worked great.
Worked great.
That's pretty neat!
Everything ive made for sheet metal...
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View media item 10332
Jim Stabe
Well-known member
Me too
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Woooooo..Real nice machines you guys built. I especially like the plenishing hammers.
I especially like the plenishing hammers.Zengineer
Well-known member
Impressive stuff guys!
1Garageman
Well-known member
That's awesome making those machines.
Fun doing it, I assume, and saving money!
Fun doing it, I assume, and saving money!
bill.haigh
Active member
Hello everyone,
After restoring cars (both professionally and as a hobby) for over 20 years, I finally broke down and built a rotisseire. I started with a kit for the rotating heads and built the rest myself. I can flip a complete '71 'Cuda body *inside my 2 car garage* *with the garage door open*. And when it's not in use, it collapses down to fit in my shed.
Thought everyone would enjoy the pics.
http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg241/hemibill/rotisserie/
BILL
After restoring cars (both professionally and as a hobby) for over 20 years, I finally broke down and built a rotisseire. I started with a kit for the rotating heads and built the rest myself. I can flip a complete '71 'Cuda body *inside my 2 car garage* *with the garage door open*. And when it's not in use, it collapses down to fit in my shed.
Thought everyone would enjoy the pics.
http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg241/hemibill/rotisserie/
BILL
PCO6
Well-known member
Ahhh ... but can you flip it with the "car" doors open?
Now that would be impressive. Nice shop btw. Harvey Melvin Richards
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2011
- Messages
- 406
Lots of nice, innovative tools here. A few of mine.
Harvey Melvin Richards
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2011
- Messages
- 406
A couple more miter gauges, you can never have enough.
Steevo
Well-known member
I didn't make these, but some one did.
He apparently didn't have a welder, because all connections are threaded.
The spark plug ends are A/C, but have no part numbers. I suspect 1920's or 1930's, based on the other items in this auction lot.
The handles and the spark plug bases are threaded on, rather than welded.
They appear to be cylinder head holders/stands. Probably to put a head on the bench for de-carbonizing, etc.
He apparently didn't have a welder, because all connections are threaded.
The spark plug ends are A/C, but have no part numbers. I suspect 1920's or 1930's, based on the other items in this auction lot.
The handles and the spark plug bases are threaded on, rather than welded.
They appear to be cylinder head holders/stands. Probably to put a head on the bench for de-carbonizing, etc.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Cool thread, I'll have to Bookmark it...
I have quite a few home-brew tools, but many are too buried for pics just now (Huge shop press, engine crane, motor stands...) or I already posted (Drill press fence) but here are a couple I can get to easily:
First up engine leveler for the Engine Crane; The acme thread all thread moves the traverse bar back and forth on the hook pin, and allows minute changes in the angle the engine that is hanging from the chains (Chain numbers and length optional depending on the engine....). Normally there are 4 chains but the last engine was a small 4 banger, hence the 2 chains and hooks. I've had complete Ford big blocks with ******'s on this little rig.
Next up something a little different. We used to make wood stoves out of huge iron pipe and plate and I needed to cut quite a few round plates with a torch out of 1/4" or thicker. Some required concentric cuts for the doors. I made this up to allow me to set both the torch height, and diameter of cut with 2 settings. Its a cutting torch Compass.
There is a bearing in the sleeve sized to hold my cutting torch tip, and make sure it does not bind up while cutting. The aluminum angle, has two more small bearings that are the wheels to the cutting head cart.
The thing about midway up the hex shaft, is the center pin, and that sets on top of the (missing for pics..) CB antenna magnet mount I converted to hold the center pin on the head of a hex head bolt.
As long as the material is reasonably clean/smooth, and you give the torch time to heat up before starting to cut, (a little preheating goes a long way), it cuts almost machine clean. The bar allows over 4 foot diameter cuts in wanted. Apologies for the rust, it's been hanging on the wall for the past 20 years or so...
I have quite a few home-brew tools, but many are too buried for pics just now (Huge shop press, engine crane, motor stands...) or I already posted (Drill press fence) but here are a couple I can get to easily:
First up engine leveler for the Engine Crane; The acme thread all thread moves the traverse bar back and forth on the hook pin, and allows minute changes in the angle the engine that is hanging from the chains (Chain numbers and length optional depending on the engine....). Normally there are 4 chains but the last engine was a small 4 banger, hence the 2 chains and hooks. I've had complete Ford big blocks with ******'s on this little rig.
Next up something a little different. We used to make wood stoves out of huge iron pipe and plate and I needed to cut quite a few round plates with a torch out of 1/4" or thicker. Some required concentric cuts for the doors. I made this up to allow me to set both the torch height, and diameter of cut with 2 settings. Its a cutting torch Compass.
There is a bearing in the sleeve sized to hold my cutting torch tip, and make sure it does not bind up while cutting. The aluminum angle, has two more small bearings that are the wheels to the cutting head cart.
The thing about midway up the hex shaft, is the center pin, and that sets on top of the (missing for pics..) CB antenna magnet mount I converted to hold the center pin on the head of a hex head bolt.
As long as the material is reasonably clean/smooth, and you give the torch time to heat up before starting to cut, (a little preheating goes a long way), it cuts almost machine clean. The bar allows over 4 foot diameter cuts in wanted. Apologies for the rust, it's been hanging on the wall for the past 20 years or so...
Attachments
RBailey
Well-known member
Some of the stuff here is amazing !
This is my humble offering.
I used to do a lot of structural steel work and this lived on my belt for a few years.
- Point is a a podger for lining up holes.
- Fork is to help you turn / roll 'I' section beams.
- And there is the obligatory lump of metal for hitting things.
This is my humble offering.
I used to do a lot of structural steel work and this lived on my belt for a few years.
- Point is a a podger for lining up holes.
- Fork is to help you turn / roll 'I' section beams.
- And there is the obligatory lump of metal for hitting things.
Attachments
TireTracks
Well-known member
My belt/disk sander. I have all of $15 invested in it. The "little" 1/6thHp motor is a 1940's Delco. The Black PVC 90* on the back if for the Shop vac dust colector. To change belts you undo the wingnuts on the side, unscrew the right upper pully axle and then pull the side off. I spent about 15 hours building it, now befor someone says It would be cheaper to buy one, I'm unemployed, so my time is technicaly worthless. I taught myself how to use my dads lathe, grind tooling, use a boreing bar, etc in that time, so I could build another one tommorow in about 4-6 hours.
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next up is a Bandsaw, then a dust colector, then a lathe, the a milling machine, then a drill press, then a....
View media item 13143View media item 13144View media item 13145View media item 13146
next up is a Bandsaw, then a dust colector, then a lathe, the a milling machine, then a drill press, then a....
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I didn't make these, but some one did.
He apparently didn't have a welder, because all connections are threaded.
The spark plug ends are A/C, but have no part numbers. I suspect 1920's or 1930's, based on the other items in this auction lot.
The handles and the spark plug bases are threaded on, rather than welded.
They appear to be cylinder head holders/stands. Probably to put a head on the bench for de-carbonizing, etc.
I have some of those and also some with different threads that my father in law made for lifting heads from the engine. The ones you have could be used on a lot of the flathead type engines.
lg
no neat sig line
luvmyhondas
Well-known member
I wish the pics still worked....
Here's the latest thing I made. I was in need of a pump for putting fluid in a transmission. Spec called for 10 qts, so the idea of hand pumping it in made me cringe. I know there are plenty of commercially available units, but it was very late at night and I needed to get this done. Took an empty peanut butter jar (Jif creamy, not crunchy), some hose/fittings scammed from my Blue-point vacuum tester kit, an air pressure regulator (that I'd already rigged up to test wastegate opening pressures), and the tube cut from a spray bottle (for the pickup). Works very well, but since none of the fittings in the lid are secured by anything other than press fit pressure I didn't try to go very high on the air pressure. Plus, the lid would swell up if I tried to push too hard. This worked so well that I went to Lowe's today to get a few parts to make it better. I'll post up the 2nd gen when it's done.
ECP
Well-known member
A tool I built for one specific job.
It's a 1-3/8 hole saw inside a 1-9/16 hole saw using the OOPS arbor. The arbor was then welded onto the larger hex adapter.
I used it to "bore" out the spindles on a 79 F250 Dana 60 rear axle. After I bored it out, I was able to run 1 ton 35 spline axle shafts in a 3/4T housing.
The 1-3/8 saw was the same size as the stock bore, so it kept the larger saw true.... which was the intent of the oops arbor.
The following edge of the green masking tape is how far I had to bore each side... about 8".
Took me about 6-7 hours to do both sides (and about 3 cans of Walther cool cut). You can buy a boring tool made specifically for this... but its $500!!!!! For a one time use tool (not Snap-On )
It's a 1-3/8 hole saw inside a 1-9/16 hole saw using the OOPS arbor. The arbor was then welded onto the larger hex adapter.
I used it to "bore" out the spindles on a 79 F250 Dana 60 rear axle. After I bored it out, I was able to run 1 ton 35 spline axle shafts in a 3/4T housing.
The 1-3/8 saw was the same size as the stock bore, so it kept the larger saw true.... which was the intent of the oops arbor.
The following edge of the green masking tape is how far I had to bore each side... about 8".
Took me about 6-7 hours to do both sides (and about 3 cans of Walther cool cut). You can buy a boring tool made specifically for this... but its $500!!!!! For a one time use tool (not Snap-On
)
I certainly hope whatever 7/8 nut your using it on isn't frozen...
That hurt just looking at it
but it looks cool
Jolomite
Well-known member
SH, That plane is beautiful! Arts and Crafts absolutely. The sweeping top curve also conjures some streamline locomotive lines. The finish on the brass top plate/ piece and tension screw is also a nice touch.
Have you used it for much? How do you like it/ has it held up?
Have you used it for much? How do you like it/ has it held up?
Jim Stabe
Well-known member
Hope your hand doesn't slip off the wrench - ouch!