Jim greengo
Well-known member
My dad always said something along the lines of: a blacksmith will make a tool,to make a tool,to make a part.
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alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
That's killer. Definitely remembering this one.Needed to take care of these holes.
So I built this real quick.
Bent some 10g aluminum.
Really cleaned up this area. This was a few years ago and I don’t have the Jeep anymore but it was under $50 for everything.
impala4speed
Well-known member
Needed to take care of these holes.
So I built this real quick.
Bent some 10g aluminum.
Really cleaned up this area. This was a few years ago and I don’t have the Jeep anymore but it was under $50 for everything.
That's just absolutely brilliant! Thanks for posting that one.
WWheeler
Well-known member
Just a followup to this...
It's been a little over a year, and I just used these bottles them again for a transmission pan drain and fill and differentials & transfer case fluid changes and they still work just as they did a year ago. No probs I can see at least using them with the full synthetic fluids I'm using, Toyota WS ATF and Valvoline SynPower 75-W90.
Posted these in the 'show us your new tools' thread earlier but figure they fit here just as well. I turned a couple $10 one gal sprayers, 1/4ID tubing, and a couple 3/8 PEX ball valves into a couple oil transfer pumps, one to be dedicated for transmission fluid and the other for gear oil. I also bent some stainless pipe I had scavenged from something at some point and a couple end caps from an assortment for ends that should let me hang the business end in a fill plug instead of me having to hold the hose in place while I pump 12 qts or more in a transmission. The Motive and other pumps like it that I was copycatting do tend to also have a pressure gauge which I contemplated adding too but didn't really see the point or benefit for the added cost. Those commercially available versions tend to sell for $80 and up each. I was able to make both of these for less than half that.
It's been a little over a year, and I just used these bottles them again for a transmission pan drain and fill and differentials & transfer case fluid changes and they still work just as they did a year ago. No probs I can see at least using them with the full synthetic fluids I'm using, Toyota WS ATF and Valvoline SynPower 75-W90.
nerraw117
Well-known member
do you happen to have a parts list you kept?Pressure brake bleeder made from a garden sprayer. Works very well. Used an old Vacula to catch the fluid coming out, but anything will work. Just add the master cylinder adapter to fit your vehicle.
The plumbing parts are arranged in a circle to balance it. If the valve, regulator, gauge, fittings were on one side, it would tip over.
jives
Well-known member
A bender made from scrap. One of my first "fabrication" and welding projects. Even the dies were scrap that I bored out. And yes, the vise does have a broken horn on the dynamic jaw. Not my doing!
Next, my portaband table. It started as a prototype made from scrap in about 20 minutes. The stupid thing worked so well that I haven't touch it since. The table top is PVC. Not great, but it works.
Next, my wall mounted tool cabinet. A tool cabinet is a tool, right? Made mostly from scrap lumber in the garage, save for the plywood backing, piano hinges, and an extra 1 x 4 piece of oak. It is a full 8' wide when opened.
Next, my portaband table. It started as a prototype made from scrap in about 20 minutes. The stupid thing worked so well that I haven't touch it since. The table top is PVC. Not great, but it works.
Next, my wall mounted tool cabinet. A tool cabinet is a tool, right? Made mostly from scrap lumber in the garage, save for the plywood backing, piano hinges, and an extra 1 x 4 piece of oak. It is a full 8' wide when opened.
I take it #450 is load limit not empty weight?450 pounds per drawer. tooling cab
...nice looking rig, btw.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Post pics of the air bearing slide you're going to need if you load every drawer to 450#
Great looking box.
Post pics of the air bearing slide you're going to need if you load every drawer to 450#
Great looking box.
its rated for #450 im probably not going to put 450 into them .That turned out awesome.
Coloshaver
Well-known member
I posted this over in the "Things that piss you off" thread
1) The brilliant people at Kohler who designed the cold side faucet handles that turn the opposite way of the hot side
2) The stupid people who, when the cold side doesn't turn on by turning counter clockwise, don't try gently turning it the other way, but twist it hard enough to turn the whole valve in the counter and pinch off the hose.
I have one of these faucets in a designer drawered cabinet where the only access to the bottom of the sink is though the drawer slot (~8"). I could barely touch the 1 1/4" retaining nut on the underside of the faucet and hand tight wasn't solving the problem. There was no way to reach it or enough room to get a wrench on it. The water line that feeds the valve comes off the side so a socket was out of the question.
This was my solution:
On a 10" extension, I could finally get the nut tight enough to prevent stupid people from twisting it lose.
1) The brilliant people at Kohler who designed the cold side faucet handles that turn the opposite way of the hot side
2) The stupid people who, when the cold side doesn't turn on by turning counter clockwise, don't try gently turning it the other way, but twist it hard enough to turn the whole valve in the counter and pinch off the hose.
I have one of these faucets in a designer drawered cabinet where the only access to the bottom of the sink is though the drawer slot (~8"). I could barely touch the 1 1/4" retaining nut on the underside of the faucet and hand tight wasn't solving the problem. There was no way to reach it or enough room to get a wrench on it. The water line that feeds the valve comes off the side so a socket was out of the question.
This was my solution:
On a 10" extension, I could finally get the nut tight enough to prevent stupid people from twisting it lose.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nice!
very nice..Just finished making this 1/4" square drive spinner handle.
Had some leftover walnut hole saw cores and acrylic sheet from different projects, so I ordered a 100mm Stahlwille extension and made a handle for it.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
I didn't fab this rotisserie, but I'm refurbing it before using it on my 77 pinto.
Main frame...
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Made this band saw template guide to use when cutting out the hand mirrors I make from time to time.
The piece on right side of the table was cut off the blank attached to the template.
Not an original idea. I think it’s from WoodSmith magazine.
Three rare earth magnets on the bottom side. It really, really sticks to the table.
I don’t think you could move it off the table without the lifting screw on the back edge.
The piece on right side of the table was cut off the blank attached to the template.
Not an original idea. I think it’s from WoodSmith magazine.
Three rare earth magnets on the bottom side. It really, really sticks to the table.
I don’t think you could move it off the table without the lifting screw on the back edge.
bctexas
Well-known member
I am replacing the power steering pump, ps gear and hoses in my '65 Cadillac due to leaks. I needed to transfer the pump pulley from the old pump to the new one. The pulley has only a narrow smooth "nose" to grab in order to pull it off - there is no groove as you will find in later GM pump pulleys. The original tool shown in the shop manual appears to be split and have a pinch bolt to grab the pulley, and a bolt through the center to pull the pulley off. So I machined a puller much like that, but with an external split collar to collapse the close fitting collar onto the pulley. Worked just fine!
I was trying to think if I had any recent homemade tools to share and remembered my attempt to craft a cheap alternative to the Victorinox FireAnt:
If you're not familiar with it, it's basically a tiny ferrocerium rod that threads into the Corkscrew of a Victorinox Swiss Army Knife for making sparks and lighting fires. It sells for $44 Canadian for a 3 pack, and I thought that was just a bit much for something so simple.
I already had some 5/32" ferrocerium rods, so I ground one down to fit the corkscrew and then popped the plastic bit off a Victorinox precision screwdriver (for context, a 4" 5/32 ferro rod is about $1 and the Victorinox screwdriver is $2 - so we're talking a $3 project).
Cut me some slack - I was trying to film it while working one-handed.
It didn't turn out perfect, but I think the idea is sound. I think I drilled out the plastic a bit too much, because it later cracked on me while using it. One obvious solution would be to reduce the diameter of the part of the rod that slides into the plastic piece - or I also wondered if I could just use some QuikSteel/Steelstik (the two-part epoxy you knead together with your fingers) instead.
If you're not familiar with it, it's basically a tiny ferrocerium rod that threads into the Corkscrew of a Victorinox Swiss Army Knife for making sparks and lighting fires. It sells for $44 Canadian for a 3 pack, and I thought that was just a bit much for something so simple.
I already had some 5/32" ferrocerium rods, so I ground one down to fit the corkscrew and then popped the plastic bit off a Victorinox precision screwdriver (for context, a 4" 5/32 ferro rod is about $1 and the Victorinox screwdriver is $2 - so we're talking a $3 project).
Cut me some slack - I was trying to film it while working one-handed.
It didn't turn out perfect, but I think the idea is sound. I think I drilled out the plastic a bit too much, because it later cracked on me while using it. One obvious solution would be to reduce the diameter of the part of the rod that slides into the plastic piece - or I also wondered if I could just use some QuikSteel/Steelstik (the two-part epoxy you knead together with your fingers) instead.
engineer2
Well-known member
Off the top of my head...
- Small hand pump sprayer. $15
- Propane grille pressure regulator. $15
- Quarter turn valve for air supply. $3
- Air fitting to connect to your shop air quick connect. $2
- Gauge from an old MityVac, but any 15 psi pressure gauge will do. $10
- Quarter turn valve with barbed fittings to regulate brake fluid flow. $4
- Vinyl tubing (seems to be compatible with brake fluid). $2
- Assortment of 45 degree and 90 degree elbows and close ******* to put it all together. $10
- Master cylinder adapter to fit you car. $30 for a metal one.
- It can be used with shop air or close the air valve to make it hand pumped.
- Arrange the components in a circle around the jug so it is balanced. If not it will tip over.
- Don't store brake fluid in it. Put the extra brake fluid back into its sealed bottle.
- Don't exceed 20 psi bleeding pressure. 10 psi works fine. You don't want to blow the reservoir off your master cylinder.
- Relieve the pressure before disconnecting anything.
Just noticed that was message # 10,000.
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I made this 6” disk sander to use on my ShopSmith when I don’t want to change from the table saw setup to the 12” disk sander. It has become one of my favorite additions to the machine.
I screwed a disk of 1/4” aluminum to the small lathe faceplate.
The aux. side table is squared to the disk. This table combined with the speed square shown allows me to grind a very square end on a piece of stock.
Although the disk runs very true I don’t leave it installed when running the machine at table saw speeds. It only takes seconds to R+R it.
You really can’t see it in the picture but I’ve used a modified shopvac accessory below the disk for dust collection.
I screwed a disk of 1/4” aluminum to the small lathe faceplate.
The aux. side table is squared to the disk. This table combined with the speed square shown allows me to grind a very square end on a piece of stock.
Although the disk runs very true I don’t leave it installed when running the machine at table saw speeds. It only takes seconds to R+R it.
You really can’t see it in the picture but I’ve used a modified shopvac accessory below the disk for dust collection.
While incredibly clever and potentially cheaper, motive power makes these off the shelf:
Brake Bleeder Kits
Get the right brake bleeding kit for your vehicle—shop Power Bleeder Kits now for the ultimate performance in brake fluid removal! Keep it working at peak condition with these powerful tools.
www.motiveproducts.com
pwhittle
Well-known member
I have a bunch of patio sling chairs to redo.
I made a tool to stretch the frames to install the spreaders.
Paul
I made a tool to stretch the frames to install the spreaders.
Paul
FrankLee
Well-known member
I need to rebuild some select control valves in a John Deere 4440. The tool that holds the grinding stones is close to $500 and on back order. After looking at a friend's set, I decided to make my own. I need to make a second one. The OEM set is a two pack and different spring pressure for the fine and course stones. The second one will go much quicker since I figured out how to make it.
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My parents had one of these, hated it.I posted this over in the "Things that piss you off" thread
1) The brilliant people at Kohler who designed the cold side faucet handles that turn the opposite way of the hot side
2) The stupid people who, when the cold side doesn't turn on by turning counter clockwise, don't try gently turning it the other way, but twist it hard enough to turn the whole valve in the counter and pinch off the hose.
I have one of these faucets in a designer drawered cabinet where the only access to the bottom of the sink is though the drawer slot (~8"). I could barely touch the 1 1/4" retaining nut on the underside of the faucet and hand tight wasn't solving the problem. There was no way to reach it or enough room to get a wrench on it. The water line that feeds the valve comes off the side so a socket was out of the question.
This was my solution:
On a 10" extension, I could finally get the nut tight enough to prevent stupid people from twisting it lose.
Guess I’m stupid.
But not as stupid as the Kohler “engineers”.
bctexas
Well-known member
Having issues with the power steering in my '65 Cadillac - rebuilt pump and steering gear not behaving properly. Wanted to check the pump pressure. Local parts store offered a test kit for free. However, the hose connection to the power steering pump would not connect due to proximity of the exhaust manifold. I could not find a suitable adapter anywhere so I made one. 5/8-18 inverse flare to 1/8 inch pipe. The brass fitting is from the test kit. Did the trick - the pump is fine - looks like the rebuilt steering box needs to go back to the re-builder.
20+ years ago, I made this portable exhaust fan out of an old furnace blower and a length of 14" flex duct. I've used it dozens of times for different jobs. It moves a tremendous amount of air. I usually put it near where I'm working and don't need to worry about dust. Nothing escapes it. Other times I sit it on a window sill without the duct and ventilate the whole space. It's incredibly useful.
Bringing this thread back to the top - I love seeing homemade tools. 
I was watching some Victorinox Swiss Army Knife customizations on Youtube recently and thought "I could probably do that". Here's my first try - its a Serrated Spartan toolset with Layered black G10 scales, smooth white G10 liners and a deep carry pocket clip.
(p.s. I've been EDC-ing it for awhile, so it's collected a few scratches)
I was watching some Victorinox Swiss Army Knife customizations on Youtube recently and thought "I could probably do that". Here's my first try - its a Serrated Spartan toolset with Layered black G10 scales, smooth white G10 liners and a deep carry pocket clip.
(p.s. I've been EDC-ing it for awhile, so it's collected a few scratches)