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APEowner

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Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
4,164
Location
Sunny, New Mexico
I stuffed one of my race cars into a tire barrier and rather than pay someone to pull the nose back where it belongs I built my own puller and did it myself. The long tube runs back another tube that runs across the car and clamps to the pinch welds.
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I don't have any before pics but I must have done something right because all the body parts bolted back on like they're supposed to.
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Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
I stuffed one of my race cars into a tire barrier and rather than pay someone to pull the nose back where it belongs I built my own puller and did it myself. The long tube runs back another tube that runs across the car and clamps to the pinch welds.
1694646512247.jpeg

I don't have any before pics but I must have done something right because all the body parts bolted back on like they're supposed to.
1694646697630.jpeg
Very nicely done!
I love the turntables on the top of your tire stands.
Are they leveled to a particular spot on the floor so you can align the car?
 

APEowner

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
4,164
Location
Sunny, New Mexico
Very nicely done!
I love the turntables on the top of your tire stands.
Are they leveled to a particular spot on the floor so you can align the car?
Thanks. I use a laser level and shim the stands so that the tops are level for alignments and scaling the cars. I did build the stands so that they're level in specific spots on the floor but that only works for one car which I no longer own.
 

Jgaz

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Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
Thanks. I use a laser level and shim the stands so that the tops are level for alignments and scaling the cars. I did build the stands so that they're level in specific spots on the floor but that only works for one car which I no longer own.
@APEowner A long time ago, I was wrenching on a friends Formula Ford. It was the mid 90’s so no laser level.
We rented a builders level to set our stands level on a very imperfect garage floor.

No turntables. We used Masonite that was tempered on both sides, then layered that with heavy duty wax paper to make back alley slip plates.
This set up made a really accurate way for setting ride heights and camber.
It also was pretty decent for caster using a borrowed and adapted caster gage with the turn angles marked on the front slip plates.
Fun times.
 

APEowner

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
4,164
Location
Sunny, New Mexico
@APEowner A long time ago, I was wrenching on a friends Formula Ford. It was the mid 90’s so no laser level.
We rented a builders level to set our stands level on a very imperfect garage floor.

No turntables. We used Masonite that was tempered on both sides, then layered that with heavy duty wax paper to make back alley slip plates.
This set up made a really accurate way for setting ride heights and camber.
It also was pretty decent for caster using a borrowed and adapted caster gage with the turn angles marked on the front slip plates.
Fun times.
I'll have to remember the Masonite and wax paper trick.

One of my other race cars is a Formula Ford. It's a Crossle 32F.

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jimbothecricket

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Joined
Aug 15, 2023
Messages
96
Location
San Diego
I work with electonics and frequently unscrew a particular set of #2 Phillips screws holding a heatsink to a PCB. Unfortunately they are not accessible with a standard #2 driver due to the width of the shaft and the fins of the heatsink interfering. I normally resort to using a #1 and trying not to strip anything.

Today I took matters into my own hands with a cheap screwdriver with a terrible handle that was in the pile of "trash tools" at work and a dremel. I ground the shaft around the head until it fit in the narrow holes on the heatsink. I also cut off the handle and made a new one with some paracord, glue, and heat shrink. It may not be pretty but it is perfectly suited for my task. I'm happy with it :)IMG_20230915_155809.jpg
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Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
My box (finger) joint jig that was built from WoodSmith magazine plans in the mid 90’s

The front, facing the blade.
These keys are adjustable for both width and relation to the blade.
Width is set to match saw blade kerf or router bit diameter.
The two keys move together to adjust finger spacing and therefore joint tightness.
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Test piece shown to maybe explain keys better
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Rear view of the jig showing it mounted on the the miter gauge.
You can also see the red safety guard that I added later after beginning to use the jig.
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Close up of the adjustment and locking knobs on the moveable key assembly
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Cutting finger joints on a 7x19” panel for my future machinist chest riser.
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ChefRex

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Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
3,693
Location
NJ
I used a tool I made years ago today to press bearings out of a Softail swing arm, been a long time since I used it as a company came up with a simpler solution but new shop does not have it and I have not needed to do this since I've been in this shop.
Also works for FL springer fenders.
No pic but if I think of it when I reassemble I'll post it up.
 

threewood

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Messages
419
Location
Yuma, AZ
Not as fancy as most of them posted here but I welded up a few to help rebuild transmissions.
Servo compressor out of rebar.
Clutch pack spring compressor.
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A set of keys to tighten and loosen instrument trim rings for early Mopars.
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And a gauge ohm fuel gauge tester built to show low, half and full.
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Terra Nova

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Joined
Feb 26, 2012
Messages
4,179
Location
Michigan
Needed to shape a couple handles for some campfire pokers I'm making for the white elephant game at Christmas. Lacking a wood lathe or knowing anyone with one I whipped this up. A 60 grit flap disk in the ol' angle grinder made short work of shaping the 1 1/4" oak dowel rod. After a little trial and error, it was still pretty sketchy, but got the job done.

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jimbothecricket

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Joined
Aug 15, 2023
Messages
96
Location
San Diego
I don't have anything new to post, but I hate when this thread gets buried - then I don't get to see new homemade tools for awhile.
I'll bite :)

Here is my all-time favorite pair of flush cutters (formerly a pair of diagonal cutters):
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About 11 months ago one of my coworkers attempted to use my cheap HF flush cutters to cut something much harder than zip ties and stranded wire (I think it was some headers on a PCB) leaving the blades mangled and useless. I went to HF, bought him a pair and told him not to do that again. For myself, I went to Home Depot and picked up a pair of the Klein flush cutters and boy were they awful. The spring didn't work, they would stick in the closed position, and they opened only slightly wider than the width of a zip tie, making them annoying to use in cramped spaces. After a day or two I returned them. Stuck without a pair of flush cutters I needed to do something (I make a lot of custom harnesses so flush cutters are an essential tool for my job). That's when I remembered this small pair of diagonal cutters I inherited when my grandfather passed away. They were too small and dull for me to use as diagonal cutters so I pulled out a dremel (it is the only grinding tool at work) and ground them into the current profile.

This pair of cutters is now one of my favorite tools of all time. Another coworker tried to convince me to buy the Icon Snap-On knockoff pair but they just feel too bulky. This pair is small, opens easily, is sharp, and best of all it makes me think of my grandfather when I use them.
 
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Mgdoug3

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Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
1,391
Location
KY
I made a front main seal installer for a couple of John Deere engines I'm building. The tool should push the wear sleeve and seal at the same time. The JD tool looks very similar to the tool I made so it should work. I haven't tried it because I'm waiting on the machine shop.
 

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Jgaz

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Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
I made this Angle Finder back in the early 90’s after I saw an article in Fine Homebuilding about running trim in older houses with outta square walls, corners, etc.

The author of the article made his angle finder out of wood. I made mine from aluminum.
It‘s been handy for setting an angle on the miter saw.
IMG_4055.jpeg
I laid out the angles by gluing a paper print to the aluminum. A neighbor drew up the angles on the paper using a CAD program.

I very carefully ***** punched the ends of the lines. Then used a razor knife blade followed by a sharp engraving tool to connect the dots. Lastly I sheared the two edges to remove the punch marks for a cleaner look.
A machinist friend of mine randomly checked about 12 or 15 lines on this board in our inspection dept.
He didn’t find any that were more than 0.3 of a degree plus or minus off the intended angle.

This was a lot of work. I didn’t find one commercially available back then.
There is one sold here now that I would buy in a heartbeat rather than make this plate again.


However, this was a good exercise in precision and patience.
 
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rslaback

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Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
4,061
Location
Westcentral Wisconsin
My fifteen year old has decided lately that he shouldn't have to help with anything that doesn't directly benefit him. I had 9 crated tillers to move from the garage to storage. This moved a fork attachment for my garden tractor loader from the someday list to the now list.

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PugetDude

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Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,262
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
My fifteen year old has decided lately that he shouldn't have to help with anything that doesn't directly benefit him. I had 9 crated tillers to move from the garage to storage. This moved a fork attachment for my garden tractor loader from the someday list to the now list.

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Ryan, you should post this in the "Show us your Welding Projects" thread
 
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larry4406

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,939
Location
Northern Virginia
My fifteen year old has decided lately that he shouldn't have to help with anything that doesn't directly benefit him. I had 9 crated tillers to move from the garage to storage. This moved a fork attachment for my garden tractor loader from the someday list to the now list.

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Remind the 15 year old ungrateful that no help means no internet, no phone, no TV, dishwashing for the rest of the month, and maybe you will include food and shelter.;)
 

Jgaz

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Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
I thought I’d share my homemade picture frame clamp I made in the early 90’s.
It’s copied it from a 1960’s vintage Jorgensen Clamp Co. brochure that my Dad had
IMG_0477_Original.jpeg
The brochure showed using a twin screw hand clamp, (Jorgensen naturally) but I’ve found the threaded rod to be a lot less “fiddly”
I have no experience with hi dollar frame clamps but this one works better than any cheaper clamps I’ve tried
 

Mgdoug3

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Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
1,391
Location
KY
I needed an easier way to measure liner protrusion and this is what I came up with. I wish I had some wider material but it this works and can measure piston height too. It probably took me about 40 minutes to make on my mill since I was just winging it but it'll do. I started off as a solid 1x2x5 chunk of aluminum. Next time I'll try to found something that's 7" long.
 

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Jgaz

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Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,628
Location
AZ
Alright, now for a seriously crude homemade tool.

Was up in the UP of Michigan deer hunting in about 2009. The water pump went out on my 2001 Dakota pickup. 4.7L V8.

I was able to order a water pump but the part store had no tools to rent/loan.
I was unable to find a tool (pin spanner) to hold the pulley so I could remove the fan.

No garage was open, let alone nearby. We made a Hail Mary run to a combination, bait, feed, sorta hardware, and liquor store.

This is what we came up with. The aluminum was some sort of extrusion for an unknown purpose so it was nice and rigid.
IMG_4152.jpeg
Worked like a charm!
You can laugh now.
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
Alright, now for a seriously crude homemade tool.

Was up in the UP of Michigan deer hunting in about 2009. The water pump went out on my 2001 Dakota pickup. 4.7L V8.

I was able to order a water pump but the part store had no tools to rent/loan.
I was unable to find a tool (pin spanner) to hold the pulley so I could remove the fan.

No garage was open, let alone nearby. We made a Hail Mary run to a combination, bait, feed, sorta hardware, and liquor store.

This is what we came up with. The aluminum was some sort of extrusion for an unknown purpose so it was nice and rigid.
IMG_4152.jpeg
Worked like a charm!
You can laugh now.

Nothing wrong with that. Necessity is the mother of invention and it worked so no shame there, crude or not. :thumbup:
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
After running the overhead on our Cummins ISL diesel engine last fall and having to pull the starter motor to bar the engine over, I thought I'd make a tool that would allow me to grab the harmonic balancer and bar the engine over as a time saver. Made some time last week to knock out a tool that was adjustable so it would fit more than just my engine's harmonic balancer for future jobs that may or may not come into my shop.

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Grabs the outer lip of the balancer then accepts a 1/2" ratcher or breaker bar.
tool11.jpg
 

isb cornbinder

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Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I fount this axle holder design with Google. I want/need to put two DANA 60 axles and 2 DANA 44 axles on something like this so I can get them inside the shop. The two 44s have been covered but out in the weather for the winter. I do not like this situation.
I hope I can take up less floor space with something like this.
Can anyone add some ideas for something like this.
 

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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,080
Location
The Badlands
ISB - Are you looking for holding for work one at a time; or racking for storage?

For the later two posts, alternating hanger rods staggered front to back gives a balanced load (as long as you alternate as you load, unload) Front to back allows a bit denser loading.
 

isb cornbinder

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Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
ISB - Are you looking for holding for work one at a time; or racking for storage?

For the later two posts, alternating hanger rods staggered front to back gives a balanced load (as long as you alternate as you load, unload) Front to back allows a bit denser loading.
After having a good sleep, I recognize I have not been clear. Storage is my main reason, right now.
Thank for inquiring
 

teknikfrog

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Joined
Apr 29, 2023
Messages
216
Here's a quick fabrication I did. I wanted to remove this rock from my yard. it was about 12" x 12" -- or so I thought. You can see the grey part on the photo, that's the only part not covered by grass. What I thought was a small piece ended up being 300-400lbs as I dug it out. I couldn't pry on it with a shovel so I went through my bin of scrap metal and found a strip of steel, bent it in my vice, and then machined a slot in it for my winch to (barely) grab onto. I used my winch remote in conjunction with my shovel to basically ratchet it up and out of the ground until I could flop it onto a gorilla cart, which I then ratchet-strapped down and towed out of the environment with my mower.

photo_2024-04-02_15-04-53.jpg
 
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