Hot Dawg 45K Heater Install

[rlitman]

should the flexible gas line go directly into the heater or should the drip leg/pipe and valve be attached to the heater?

Gas flare goes on heater. Flexible line connects to that.
On the other side you should have a valve, drip leg, and a tee above the drip that has the other gas flare for the flex line.

I would strongly suggest you do not hang a drip leg from the heater. Unnecessary piping weight hanging from your gas valve is a bad idea.

 

[D45]

Thanks for the info

 

[toyotadriver]

Gas flare goes on heater. Flexible line connects to that.
On the other side you should have a valve, drip leg, and a tee above the drip that has the other gas flare for the flex line.

I would strongly suggest you do not hang a drip leg from the heater. Unnecessary piping weight hanging from your gas valve is a bad idea.

Won't matter either way he chooses to do it. You'll see lots of drip legs attached directly to the heater itself if you search around this site. Some people don't even attach the gas pipe with an appliance connector at all. They hard pipe it directly to the heater.

I have the drip leg attached to the heater and any extra stress on the valve is negligible. But, either way works fine. Really just depends on what's easiest for the OP.

 

[D45]

I guess I could do it either way

The back of the heater valve uses a 1/2" stub

Making the valve and drip leg out of 1/2" would be cheaper than 3/4", only marginally though

Should I run 3/4" as far as possible to the heater and only use the 1/2" stub ?

 

[toyotadriver]

There are several ways to do it. I don't know how long your pipe is from the source to the heater. However, a quick check of a pipe chart it appears that 1/2 inch black iron pipe will flow 60k BTU at 40 ft long....more if the pipe is shorter. Since your heater is 45k you'll be good. If you go much longer than 40 ft and you'll be starving the heater for gas.

If the heater gas supply pipe is 40 ft or less, I'd run 1/2 inch black iron. If it's much longer than 40 ft, I'd run 3/4 inch.

If you run 3/4 inch, then I'd install 1/2 inch black pipe drip leg and attach the appliance connector with a 1/2 pipe to the 3/4 pipe and call it good. If you run 3/4 and drop it down to 1/2 right at the heater, it'll work fine.

Or, run 3/4, reduce the 3/4 to 1/2, install the drip leg, then connect the heater with the 1/2 inch appliance connector pipe.

The length of the run is what's important so once you know that, you'll know which pipe to go with. You just need to know that you have enough gas flow to your heater. 1/2 inch will flow plenty of gas as long as the pipe isn't too long.

 

[rlitman]

I guess I could do it either way

The back of the heater valve uses a 1/2" stub

Making the valve and drip leg out of 1/2" would be cheaper than 3/4", only marginally though

Should I run 3/4" as far as possible to the heater and only use the 1/2" stub ?

The smaller valve is cheaper too. As are the fittings. It adds up.

I would probably finish your main straight run with 3/4 and then use a reducing elbow or tee to 1/2. Then use 1/2 for the valve and drip leg.

 

[naturalgas]

Run 3/4 main gas line. If you ever want to upgrade you will have the supply line to support more BTU's . Gas line shut off valve within 6' of heater and don't run flex line into heater cabinet to gas valve , run a 1/2 inch ****** from gas valve to outside cabinet , 1/2 in tee with drip, 1/2 flex line , 1/2" gas shut off valve , close ****** and 1/2x3/4 coupling to 3/4 supply line. Good looking install with venting. Do yourself a favor and get it inspected or at least have your gas co. Look it over


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[rlitman]

Run 3/4 main gas line. If you ever want to upgrade you will have the supply line to support more BTU's . Gas line shut off valve within 6' of heater and don't run flex line into heater cabinet to gas valve , run a 1/2 inch ****** from gas valve to outside cabinet , 1/2 in tee with drip, 1/2 flex line , 1/2" gas shut off valve , close ****** and 1/2x3/4 coupling to 3/4 supply line. Good looking install with venting. Do yourself a favor and get it inspected or at least have your gas co. Look it over


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All good advice.

I completely agree with the part about not running flex into the heater cabinet. Though the Hot Dawg 45k I installed last year had the gas fitting outside the cabinet, so that ****** would not be necessary. If the gas valve's connection were inside the cabinet, then I'd agree that you should put a ****** on it.

If you have any intention of pulling something else from that 3/4 line, you might want to put a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee on the end. Drop your 1/2 line to the valve for this heater, and put a ****** and a valve on the other opening of the tee (with a plug in the valve's outlet, or a ****** and cap), for future use.

 

[D45]

There are several ways to do it. I don't know how long your pipe is from the source to the heater. However, a quick check of a pipe chart it appears that 1/2 inch black iron pipe will flow 60k BTU at 40 ft long....more if the pipe is shorter. Since your heater is 45k you'll be good. If you go much longer than 40 ft and you'll be starving the heater for gas.

If the heater gas supply pipe is 40 ft or less, I'd run 1/2 inch black iron. If it's much longer than 40 ft, I'd run 3/4 inch.

If you run 3/4 inch, then I'd install 1/2 inch black pipe drip leg and attach the appliance connector with a 1/2 pipe to the 3/4 pipe and call it good. If you run 3/4 and drop it down to 1/2 right at the heater, it'll work fine.

Or, run 3/4, reduce the 3/4 to 1/2, install the drip leg, then connect the heater with the 1/2 inch appliance connector pipe.

The length of the run is what's important so once you know that, you'll know which pipe to go with. You just need to know that you have enough gas flow to your heater. 1/2 inch will flow plenty of gas as long as the pipe isn't too long.

I was thinking this too, but I am tapping into the 3/4" supply line, which the gas dryer and gas fireplace is also on

But running a 3/4" line to the garage, I think the added costs of having the larger line will be worth it

I would guess the length of run will be around 37 feet, with 4-5 elbows, before the flexible gas line to the unit

 

[D45]

Run 3/4 main gas line. If you ever want to upgrade you will have the supply line to support more BTU's . Gas line shut off valve within 6' of heater and don't run flex line into heater cabinet to gas valve , run a 1/2 inch ****** from gas valve to outside cabinet , 1/2 in tee with drip, 1/2 flex line , 1/2" gas shut off valve , close ****** and 1/2x3/4 coupling to 3/4 supply line. Good looking install with venting. Do yourself a favor and get it inspected or at least have your gas co. Look it over
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Thanks, yes I did not plan on running the flex line directly into the heater

I already have a 6" long 1/2" long ****** coming out the back of the heater

 

[toyotadriver]

I was thinking this too, but I am tapping into the 3/4" supply line, which the gas dryer and gas fireplace is also on

But running a 3/4" line to the garage, I think the added costs of having the larger line will be worth it

I would guess the length of run will be around 37 feet, with 4-5 elbows, before the flexible gas line to the unit

That will work perfectly. Good plan. Reduce it down to 1/2 at the heater and be done with it. Enjoy the vented heat! I heated my shop for years with unvented heaters. I now have a vented propane heater in my shop and my attached garage. I love it. Would not go back to vent free under any circumstances.

 

[D45]

How does this look, so far (the blue tap is just covering the elbow so nothings creeps inside:

Picked up a container of this since, I will be needing a decent amount of threads and fittings to be connected/sealed:

I have a small 1/2"x1" long ****** to thread into the elbow and then a 1/2" valve to attach

Decision then needs to be made:

Install a 1/2" to 3/4" bushing, 3/4" flare fitting, and use a 3/4" flex line to the 3/4" black pipe

or

Install a 1/2" flare fitting and run a 1/2" flex line to the 3/4" black pipe

 

[naturalgas]

3/4" X 1/2" coupling at fuel line and add 1/2" ball gas shut off valve and 1/2" flex and your good. Soap up and clean up all that excess pipe dope. Your flare fittings are part of the flex line.


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[PhantomEB]

My gas guy hard piped straight to the heater as well mounted a drip not at the heater but way down low where the gas line comes thru the wall. He's like why add the weight up there when down here makes better sense when you start to put cabinets up there around it. City inspector said it was the best job he seen to date. Signed off on the permit within 30 seconds of coming into the garage.

 

[D45]

3/4" X 1/2" coupling at fuel line and add 1/2" ball gas shut off valve and 1/2" flex and your good. Soap up and clean up all that excess pipe dope. Your flare fittings are part of the flex line.

Should the ball valve be before or after the flex line?

Or does it not matter......

I was going to install a short ****** on to the 90 degree elbow (coming off the top of the drip leg config) and thread on the ball valve, then connect the flex line to the valve.........but I will definitely change this, if its not acceptable

 

[rlitman]

Before. Your plan sounds good.

 

[csp]

It goes on before so that if you ever have to service the gas valve (or remove the heater) you can simply shut off the valve and remove the flex line.

If it were the other way around you would have to shut down the entire line previous to the flex line.

The 1/2" flex line is fine to use. You're making it harder than it needs to be again.

 

[naturalgas]

Make sure your gas shut off is within 6' of appliance . So your main 3/4 " line has to be 6' or closer to your unit heater. Then Pipe up the rest with 3/4x1/2 coupling first then ball valve then flex line .


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[D45]

Acceptable to use conduit straps on black gas pipe or..............

 

[naturalgas]

Acceptable to use conduit straps on black gas pipe or..............

Sure


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[D45]

I picked up some "J hooks" last night, for helping the secure the 3/4" to the joists, in the crawl space

I also removed this elbow

........and will install a longer ******, straight up, about 12"..........where I will install a 1/2" to 3/4" elbow

Plans have changed, decided that with buying 6 (10 foot) sticks of 3/4" pipe, that I will have enough left over to hard pipe it all the way to the heater

This will cut down on added costs for buying a good flex line and will use the material I already have

A local business cuts and threads 3/4" pipe for $2

 

[D45]

Going on almost 8 months of this! hilarious

The American gas pipe really killed the budget, but it was necessary

The China pipe and China fittings at the big box stores were much, much cheaper......but I just could not force myself to buy it

All the pipe and all the fittings are USA

I even picked up this nice 3/4" cross, which I used in the basement, near the branch off the main 3/4" supply line

 

[D45]

Prices so far:

Heater: FREE
B Vent Kit: $63.75
Thermostat: $20.05
Tstat Wire: $8.00
Black Roof Caulk: $6.00
Clear Silicon: $5.00
Ground Wire: $3.00
Plug: $6.00

The black gas pipe, valves, and flexible connector will add a lot to this price, but still under $125 so far.......

Glad to announce that the roof vent and flashing is water tight also, after two good rain storms

The goal is to be completely done and have the heater fired up by December 12, which will be the 8 month mark, since I first traded the heater

Total estimates right now are around $325. I will have specific numbers when its done and I add up my receipts

 

[D45]

Ran the line inside the crawl, which composed of two 3/4" 90 degree elbows (one for the garage and one for the basement), two 3/4" couplings, two 10' 3/4" sticks and a small section cut and threaded down to around 48-3/8" IIRC

Local shop charges a mere $2 for one cut and one thread, very reasonable

All connected in the crawl and supported with 1" plastic J-Hooks, 8 total

I then moved into the garage and used a single 10' stick of 3/4" and ran it level straight up towards the roof, with another 3/4" 90 degree fitting

I had to cut a small notch in the ledge board, which I then re-supported with longer and better screws

I connected a full 10' stick of 3/4" to this elbow and ran it back down the wall, near the heater

I used another coupling and attached one last small 46-3/8" long section with another 3/4" elbow, which was positioned facing down

I then connected an 18" long piece of 3/4" and added another elbow

This entire assembly was fastened to the wall using metal straps. It's rock solid

I then attached a small ****** and threaded on the ball valve, which the other end of the valve was threaded in the fitting from the 5/8" flex gas line

I went this route because of the size and "heavy duty" of the line........the 1/2" and 3/8" just felt flimsy

I then ran the flex line (48") to the top of the T fitting and tightened it all down

Long busy day with a few trips to the hardware store, but I am almost FINISHED!!!

Pics coming shortly............

 

[D45]

I was thankful it did not take 6 of the 10' long lengths of 3/4" pipe, and after everything was cut down and threaded, I ended up with only a 5" long section of extra pipe

Some pics of the 3/4" pipe in the crawl, supported by the white plastic J Hooks..........running parallel to the 1/2" gas pipe for the fireplace

 

[D45]

Leftover piece from 5 pieces of 10' 3/4" pipe...thankful for not having to spend $32 on another 10 foot section

Pic of the pipe coming up from crawl, behind the tool box

Notch in the ledger board with the 90 degree fitting:

Headed about 15 foot back towards the heater:

At the corner of the garage, with the 18" ****** doing down to the valve:

Here's the flex line I went with:

 

[D45]

Been raining on and off for the past 20 hours..........the roof vent is still bone dry.

 

[sweetk30]

come on man ....................... fire in the hole pic . . . .

here is my 125k unit the top dog

 

[D45]

I still need to do some work in the basement

The 3/4" cross fitting and routing I was not pleased with

 

[sweetk30]

with gas = best to do it right 1 time . . .

so good for you making it right before fire up .

 

[D45]

My plan is to slowly work from the elbow (coming out of the crawl) going upwards this week, which will only take an hour or so........one 4" long 3/4" ******, the 3/4" valve, then another 4-7/8" long 3/4" pipe with another 3/4" elbow

Then, over the weekend, I need to take out a 4' long piece of 3/4" pipe, cut it down and install a T fitting

 

[matt_i]

Curious where you sourced the USA black pipe & fittings. I usually order fittings from McMaster Carr as I get Ward Mfg fittings but the pipe is one thing I have repeated trouble with and have always bought the box store pipe.

 

[D45]

At a local True Value store, Anvil brand USA fittings and USA pipe

Most True Value stores in my area carry Southland, which is Mexico

This one, closest to me (thankfully!) only carries USA made Anvil brand

 

[brewchief]

My plan is to slowly work from the elbow (coming out of the crawl) going upwards this week, which will only take an hour or so........one 4" long 3/4" ******, the 3/4" valve, then another 4-7/8" long 3/4" pipe with another 3/4" elbow

Then, over the weekend, I need to take out a 4' long piece of 3/4" pipe, cut it down and install a T fitting

Just a heads up, most pipe threaders can't thread a ****** under 6" so you either be using a 4 1/2" or 5" ****** instead of a 4 7/8".

 

[D45]

thanks for the info.......I just installed a 4-1/2" ****** and connected the valve

I think I can actually get away with a store bought 5" or 5-1/2" long ****** with the additional curve/length of the 90 degree elbow on the top, it will be about perfect

Here is a pic of what I am doing.........I will remove and cut down the 3/4" pipe running to the junction seen on the right.

Use a 4"-6" ******, a T, and then connect it to the other line I ran

 

[D45]

Suggestions needed........I need to remove the overhead 3/4" line (to install a T fitting) that is seen feeding into the tie in area

Obviously, there is not a union fitting, so if I try to loosen it at one end......it will only tighten at the other

It will obviously need to be CUT

With the gas shut off at the meter, can I run the dryer to pull the remaining NG out of the line?

Slowly use a hacksaw was going to be my tool.......or maybe a small pipe cutter.......obviously, just concerned about gas in the line and a SPARK

 

[brewchief]

I would simply cut it with a sawzall, I've done it many times with not so much as a tiny bit of flame.

 

[naturalgas]

You can burn it off with dryer or just cut it. Not enough gas there to worry about. Soap up all those joints when done to check for fuzz balls/ leaks.


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[sweetk30]

maybe even add in a coupler - union so service work can be done faster later on it need be . . . best time now to plan for later work .

 

[D45]

Are gas pipe "unions" acceptable to use in open exposed areas?

I will definitely soap up each joint, twice even........haha