How do I cut bottom plate flush with drywall?

[Daniel Dudley]

I painted to match the floor, and put the baseboard over it. Looks fine. A lot of guys would cut that with a sawzall and have no problem. Trust me when I tell you I had no problem wielding a paintbrush. It hasn't been a problem for me. If I wasn't handy with a sawzall, I'd get a flush cut saw and a Multi tool to finish, If it wouldn't split off.

 

[gungatim]

You guys evidently never owned a sawzall. They can't cut flush to anything.

maybe a sawzall doesn't, but my craftsman version does. you can mount the blade on the outside for cutting flush. not to mention a very long blade is flexible enough to cut flush if you hold it properly and put a bend in it. have done this many times doing the same thing as the OP.

 

[flat350]

They do make offset adapters and offset flush cut blades for recip. saws that give you lots of different options with blades.

 

[bullnerd]

No way anyone here can cut that with a sawzall and not eff up the drywall!

No way, nope. I have done it 10,000 times and you guys just don't have the skill, just forget about it. I know all about all this stuff.

 

[tthornto]

No way anyone here can cut that with a sawzall and not eff up the drywall!

I agree, using a sawzall even with one of those flush cut adapter would tear up at least a little bit of drywall. But if you hold the saw almost horizontal with only a slight angle the portion of drywall that it messes up will be hidden behind the baseboard where it will never be seen.

 

[ScottsGT]

Biscuit cutter with the depth set just enough to almost cut all the way through. Either make 87,000 plunges, or lock it and drag it.

But I would just stack trim up and keep it. That way no rolling tools can run through the sheetrock. Or just wainscot the garage with 3/4' ply and smaller trim at the bottom.

 

[MoonRise]

I'd say just leave the bottom plate alone.

Take some 1x or 2x (whatever thickness is needed) and mount it to the drywall above the bottom plate, mount your 1x4 baseboard to that 1x/2x, add some molding (quarter round, or whatever) on top of your 'thick' looking baseboard, done.

Or take some 2x, route or cut a rabbet to clear the 'proud' bottom plate, install the 2x as the baseboard. Route a 'fancy' edge on the top of the 2x before installation if desired. Done.

 

[Doug B]

just nail a 1 x above on the drywall, then paint as a base.

Another vote for this right here.

 

[PelicanPines]

Don’t cut any of it , put a 1x2 on the drywall above the plate that sticks out, then a 1x4 over that on floor. Leaves a larger ledge but could look okay in a garage. You could also put a 1/2” reveal between the two base boards for a different look. Beats cutting the plate.

PC Custom you beat me!

This... avoids the moisture etc...

 

[DFB]

Does anyone know of a toe kick saw that can cut 1.5" depth?

You can do it with that 3/4 cut Toe Kick saw just not all at once

Make a side cut the depth of the blade 3/4 down from the top edge then a top cut 3/4 in and remove that piece

Then another 3/4 deep top cut should remove the bottom piece that's left

Then repeat until you get to the wall

Like I said more work than I want to do

There actually are other multi toothed saw blades for angle grinders drill chuck arbors to use on wood similar to that chainsaw blade.

Can't say I have EVER seen anyone use one though

A bunch of them on Ebay

Cheap enough too

https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_...l Power Tool 110MM 28T&_id=352032670648&rt=nc

 

[Crazyjake8493]

This would work if you could find one.https://www.amazon.com/Paws-Off-Tools-FCA-007-Adapter/dp/B00028EWE0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[Colin Len]

I would use a 2x4 and notch out one edge to fit over the plate. you can use a dado blade for this or maybe a router. I would then cut the top outside edge at a 45.
Jay D.

I like this idea, although perhaps with a 2x6 for a slightly taller base molding when it's finished. Might have to do that in my garage when I get around to redoing the drywall since I have this same issue of 2x6 sill plate + 2x4 walls (house was built in 1942).

 

[nh_yota]

Add a couple more layers of drywall.

 

[larry4406]

Add a couple more layers of drywall.

I had a similar situation in my garage with the protruding sill splate.

My walls were not insulated. I removed the drywall, furred the existing studs to match the sill, put in R21 (and some new outlets...)

 

[dfiler2]

Galvanized metal wainscoting would even it out, I believe cutting it would be a pain and has the potential to cause other problems.

 

[MikeF2316]

I'd just put my baseboard on top of that, as suggested by a half a dozen others.

 

[RTBS]

Bosch makes a flush cut trim saw that might work

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[see pictures]

Rent a jamb saw $28/day at homedepot or buy one for $250.

 

[the gypsy]

Maybe multiple cuts with a circular saw similar to cutting dadoes set at the proper depth. laying on its' side. But not to destroy your saw You should use some kind of wood spacer as a sled. Use different thickness wood to raise the saw off the floor and and clean the rest with a chisel and route the rough work with an offset router base. Just thinking out loud...

N.B. I think this is an awful lot of work. Knowing myself I would buy the offset saw mentioned previously on one of the posts.

 

[egdede]

I can plunge cut with a sawzall but typically that is done with what you are cutting being elevated on saw horses or something of that sort. There is concrete underneath. You must have a much steadier hand than me to think it would be "easy peasy" to plunge cut 100 linear foot directly on top of concrete while at an angle to clear the drywall.

The flexed blade is flat against the wall. The wall serves as the guide. The hardest part is learning how to penetrate such that the blade skims along the top of the concrete; plunging too deep causes chatter and a crooked cut. I must admit, I do make it look easy!

 

[johnyg]

sometimes if you cant find the right tool to do something its because it should not be done.build it up and forget about it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Well if you are intent on doing it, I think maybe an old school cross cut saw (think lumberjack saw) would cut a section at a time. You could put a piece of sheet metal against the drywall to protect it as you cut.

Do a few feet at a time and move along the wall as you go. I think the length of the saw and it would be flexible enough to get it done yet cut fairly straight.

 

[BADSIX]

I like this idea, although perhaps with a 2x6 for a slightly taller base molding when it's finished. Might have to do that in my garage when I get around to redoing the drywall since I have this same issue of 2x6 sill plate + 2x4 walls (house was built in 1942).

yep, a 2x6 would be a good choice
Jay D.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

sometimes if you cant find the right tool to do something its because it should not be done.build it up and forget about it.

Makes no logical sense. I'm simply ripping a 2x6 down to a 2x4 or 2x5. Most buildings have a 2x4 sill plate. By your logic they are all built incorrectly. Many tool options have already been mentioned. Thanks everyone!

 

[cdestuck]

Makes no logical sense. I'm simply ripping a 2x6 down to a 2x or 2x5. Most buildings have a 2x4 sill plate. By your logic they are all built incorrectly. Many tool options have already been mentioned. Thanks everyone!

A lot of ideas and jibber grabber here. You have to let us know what you do and perhaps some pics

 

[straps57]

Well if you are intent on doing it, I think maybe an old school cross cut saw (think lumberjack saw) would cut a section at a time. You could put a piece of sheet metal against the drywall to protect it as you cut.

Do a few feet at a time and move along the wall as you go. I think the length of the saw and it would be flexible enough to get it done yet cut fairly straight.

Good call except go with a rip saw. Cross cut is for against the grain.

 

[wrenchguy]

Makes no logical sense. I'm simply ripping a 2x6 down to a 2x4 or 2x5. Most buildings have a 2x4 sill plate. By your logic they are all built incorrectly. Many tool options have already been mentioned. Thanks everyone!

so whats next???? u got a anchor bolt in the way? good luck with ur project.

 

[pedaltheglobe]

so whats next???? u got a anchor bolt in the way? good luck with ur project.

Yea because its typical for sill plates to be anchored at their edge and not their center [emoji23][emoji23]

I will post a few pics when the project is finished.

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[andrewordrew]

This thread is great reading. I envision a nation of people dead-set that their way is best. Every possible outcome is realized...
One dude is sitting in tattered lawn chair with no shirt on staring at the problem.
One dude is just beating the **** out of the problem with dull tools.
Another person has already trimmed it twice over with preprimed 1x and is on to the next project.
Another person is quarter-sawing white oak (for the moisture resilience, natch) and will have it finished like a fine bungalow in 2 months.
Then there’s me, sitting around doing nothing and laughing about how the world does or doesn’t use a sawzall.
God Bless America.


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[rburke65]

Andrew you have gave analyzed the responses very well!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Good call except go with a rip saw. Cross cut is for against the grain.

Yeah, I know but I figured saying "cross cut" would be understood easier than rip saw when referring to one of those big old saws.

 

[manwithtools]

This thread is great reading. I envision a nation of people dead-set that their way is best. Every possible outcome is realized...
One dude is sitting in tattered lawn chair with no shirt on staring at the problem.
One dude is just beating the **** out of the problem with dull tools.
Another person has already trimmed it twice over with preprimed 1x and is on to the next project.
Another person is quarter-sawing white oak (for the moisture resilience, natch) and will have it finished like a fine bungalow in 2 months.
Then there’s me, sitting around doing nothing and laughing about how the world does or doesn’t use a sawzall.
God Bless America.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is why we need a like button.....

 

[rayra]

Why?

Because it will look like excrement if you try and cut it in place.

The easiest tool would have been to cut the stock down to the thickness of the drywall using a table saw, before mounting it. But if you have water trouble you shouldn't be putting even pressure treated down against the floor and then drywall in contact above it. It's going to wick. The whole idea of such a 'baseboard' install should be to use something that won't take water. or deliberately leaving a gap between the drywall and the water-wicking 'baseboard'
'pressure treated' lumber isn't a water-proofing. It's a poison against insects and mold.

 

[Tom Sestito]

So? How did it turn out?

 

[johnyg]

sometimes if you cant find the right tool to do something its because it should not be done.build it up and forget about it.

Makes no logical sense. I'm simply ripping a 2x6 down to a 2x4 or 2x5. Most buildings have a 2x4 sill plate. By your logic they are all built incorrectly. Many tool options have already been mentioned. Thanks everyone!

by my logic a 2x4 is used for the sill and not a 2x6 to be trimmed later.if the latter was true im sure there would be a sill trimming saw to do this.dont mean to be pissy but when i saw that chain saw disc thing it was just wrong.desperate times call for desperate measures,but not a chain saw against concrete. im sure you could have already built up a nice base board by now and not endangered yourself.

 

[straps57]

Yeah, I know but I figured saying "cross cut" would be understood easier than rip saw when referring to one of those big old saws.

Gotcha

 

[AZ Pete]

You can do it with that 3/4 cut Toe Kick saw just not all at once



Make a side cut the depth of the blade 3/4 down from the top edge then a top cut 3/4 in and remove that piece



Then another 3/4 deep top cut should remove the bottom piece that's left



Then repeat until you get to the wall



Like I said more work than I want to do



There actually are other multi toothed saw blades for angle grinders drill chuck arbors to use on wood similar to that chainsaw blade.



Can't say I have EVER seen anyone use one though



A bunch of them on Ebay



Cheap enough too



https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_...l Power Tool 110MM 28T&_id=352032670648&rt=nc

those blades will still not make a flush cut because of the arbor nut. A biscuit saw will not cut flush either. Just trim it out with a 1"x and save all of the aggravation.


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[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

Not sure I'd way to do that, isn't the toe plate still structural?

 

[ScottsGT]

Makita track saw without the track would still leave you an 11/16 board. Just make trim to cover it up.

 

[DFB]

those blades will still not make a flush cut because of the arbor nut. A biscuit saw will not cut flush either. Just trim it out with a 1"x and save all of the aggravation.


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If that's the case one could just relief the back of the trim board to clear what was little protrusion was left

But I whole heartedly agree save the aggravation and just trim it out as it stands