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Installing Casters on Garage Cabinet: Advice

JoeyRoland82

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Installing Casters on Garage Cabinet: Advice (Updated Finished Cabinets)

Hello,
I finally got access to my garage again and am anxious to use this COVID downtime to setup some storage. I have 3 Gladiator Large Ready-To-Assemble Gearboxes, (72"H x 36"W x 18"D), and need to put them on casters, (it's a really small garage).

Before determining what I'll use as a base or which casters to go with, I'm stumped just trying to remove the female mount the leveling feet use. I took some photos but these seem like they're flared above and below the bottom panel. As in I can't just hammer it out. I'm not familiar with common mount systems, but does anyone know how I can disassemble these? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

From the top of the bottom panel:





From the underside of the bottom panel:






 
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HotrodHR

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I have four of those cabinets and I was also thinking about casters (was is the operative word), I never did... I believe the fittings are pressed in and I figure they would be destroyed when taking them out.

When I was thinking about casters I thought about using 2"x4" or 2"x6" boards laying flat to make a frame fitted in the space under the bottom. I would drill a hole on the boards for the front and rear that the fitting would fit up into it. Add side pieces and toe screw to the front and rear boards. I would run some screws from the outside perimeter of the cabinet through the metal into the boards. You could even run a few screws from the inside of the cabinet bottom down int the board. You could also run a cross brace, but you probably won't need that. Lag screw the casters to the wood frame... done.
 
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JoeyRoland82

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Super quick replies - thank you guys! As far as the rivnuts/ rivetnuts, when you say screw them out, how does that remove them? With my garage, casters will be on everything so I have no concerns about destroying those little babies!

And HR, do you know off hand if your series has that brace-like area under your cabinet? I took a scrap 2x4 just out of curiosity and noticed the "lip" or whatever it's called is exactly 1.5". I don't have a planer, but I'd really love to go with the 2x4/2x6 route. Plywood would also be a great option but I can't figure out how I'd give it full support without having to cutoff the bottom of the "lip" (I need to know my terms :()
 

Moosefire

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He said drilled out, not screwed out. Here's a link on how rivnut are installed. Take a drill bit larger than the hole and drill off the top piece of the rivnut. Once that's drilled out the rest of it should just fall off


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HotrodHR

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Super quick replies - thank you guys! As far as the rivnuts/ rivetnuts, when you say screw them out, how does that remove them? With my garage, casters will be on everything so I have no concerns about destroying those little babies!

And HR, do you know off hand if your series has that brace-like area under your cabinet? I took a scrap 2x4 just out of curiosity and noticed the "lip" or whatever it's called is exactly 1.5". I don't have a planer, but I'd really love to go with the 2x4/2x6 route. Plywood would also be a great option but I can't figure out how I'd give it full support without having to cutoff the bottom of the "lip" (I need to know my terms :()

Same as your, I was going to have a friend who does woodworking route the edge of the lumber to slide under the lip. You could probably just cut pieces to lay up to the lip and secure throug the bottom floor and then cut 3/4" plywood the size of the bottom of the cabinet fasten up through the metal lip flange into the boards, then mount your casters.

Other option would be to fabricate a metal frame (permiter of the cabinet with angle and flat stock would be simple) weld the casters on.

I believe Gladiator makes a caster kit, just not sure how they're mounted and if they would work with the bigger cabinets.
 

HotrodHR

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It looks like Gladiator does sell a caster "kit" for about $50 bucks. The instructions for the wheel cabinets show them bolted to the bottom of the cabinets (4 bolts). Assuming they are the right height to bolt to the larger gear boxes, just cut off the threaded pieces, drill four holes per caster and bolt on. Shouldn't be a problem if you're just moving cabinets to rearrange, clean, etc.
 

rsanter

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I’m thinking the bottom of those cabinets may not like the stress of casters.
I would leave the rivnits. Cut 3/4 plywood to fit the bottom, drill clearance hole for rivnut, use rivnut to bolt plywood to avoid movement.
Install casters to plywood

Bob
 

kbs2244

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This is a classic need for hacking a HS dolly.
Do not be afraid to cut the 2x4 to fit
 

Dustball

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For your reference, this is how those rivnuts are installed. They're collapsed by pulling the threaded portion towards the flanged portion.

hqdefault.jpg

This is what I'd do for a simple install.

Get a piece of plywood that's larger than your box and thicker than the height of those threaded posts- I'm thinking maybe 1" thick should work. You can buy 2'x4' cut pieces of plywood at the big box hardware stores.

Cut it to the width and length of the inner portion of the tool box bottom so it can drop straight in.

Drill holes for the posts to stick through.

Take your casters and mark the hole locations. Drill and install T-nuts from the backside of the plywood where those holes need to be.
4Zc0E.jpg

Install the casters using bolts that are as long as possible but don't stick out past the T-nuts.

Drop the plywood in place and use bolts/large washers to bolt to the existing threaded posts.
 

HotrodHR

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At the Gladiator website on descriptions for the 72" x 36" (and 48") cabinets it states that the casters are not compatible. Looking at your pics there's additional piece of metal at all four corners ready for holes to be drilled. I think you should give it a try. I don't think I'll be adding casters to mine (I've got the 48" wide) as I have four of them loaded and l lined up on the back wall of my shop, plus I drilled and bolted them together at the top to keep them looking straight.

Good luck, be sure to post whatever you do to them.
 

HotrodHR

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:beer::beer:At the Gladiator website on descriptions for the 72" x 36" (and 48") cabinets it states that the casters are not compatible. Looking at your pics there's additional piece of metal at all four corners ready for holes to be drilled. Looking at the assembly instructions for their mobile cabinet it looks they've boxed each location for casters to clear the level foot rivnut and probably so the mounted caster clears the edge of the cabinet. You could add a board like it's been suggest drill holes and bolt casters up through the board and cabinet base.

I don't think I'll be adding casters to mine (I've got the 48" wide) as I have four of them loaded and l lined up on the back wall of my shop, plus I drilled and bolted them together at the top to keep them looking straight.

Good luck, be sure to post whatever you decide to do... with pics. :beer:
 

rayra

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pssst, they sell casters that attach with a threaded rod, you can probably find some that thread right into those rivnuts.

The rivnuts were there to support the weight in the cabinet on those threaded feet in the first place.
 

CraigStu

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I’m thinking the bottom of those cabinets may not like the stress of casters.
I would leave the rivnits. Cut 3/4 plywood to fit the bottom, drill clearance hole for rivnut, use rivnut to bolt plywood to avoid movement.
Install casters to plywood

Bob
Winner, winner. This what I would do. If you can find casters that will fit within that double plate that 'might' work. But I'd still prefer the plywood.
 

Jackfre

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I have a couple garbage metal cabinets I added casters to. Leave the Riv-nuts in place. Cut a piece of at least 3/4" plywood, maybe even doubling up, depending upon what kind of load it will see, and lay it in the base marking the nuts positions and drill the plywood out to go over them. Mount your casters to the plywood or through-bolt as you choose.
 

FJ 432

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I’m thinking the bottom of those cabinets may not like the stress of casters.
I would leave the rivnits. Cut 3/4 plywood to fit the bottom, drill clearance hole for rivnut, use rivnut to bolt plywood to avoid movement.
Install casters to plywood

Bob

X3. The best easiest solution that leaves the rivnuts in place and puts them to work.
 
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JoeyRoland82

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Hi Guys,

First, thanks for all the input - I very much appreciate it! And I think I'm at a crossroads but leaning in a certain direction.

First, the rivnuts. They ****! I didn't have any bits large enough to drill out the head, so I got a chance to use a Dremel I got over the holidays, (again, looking on the bright side of this COVID :beer:). I used the metal cutoff wheel to gently cut each head, (approximately at the diameter on each side of the head). I didn't take any shots while doing this, but I think used a combination of flathead screwdrivers, a chisel, and some needle nose pliers to basically destroy the head and let the nuts fall through.





Not as clean as I'd like, but I may put a light layer of matte black spray paint around the scortched marks, (I'm going to go with shelf liner too to help things from sliding around when pushed).


As for the casters...
Okay, so Gladiator repeatedly says they won't put casters on this due to the tipping hazard. Looking at the kit they sell and the casters I have on my tool chest, I notice that the wheels are always 2" wide. Quite a good footprint. The casters I've viewed online with that same width seem to be really high per set, (given the small garage, I'm aiming to get 4 swivel which rules out the Gladiator set). And that's not addressing any bolt patterns or anything. Which leads to the mounting options :headscrat

I like plywood the most. The bottom is thin gauge steel and can already be warped without any load. The problem with plywood is the little "lips" around the bottom. In some of the photos in the first post, you can see what I'm referring to. That means in order to get a solid plywood base in that recessed area, something would have to be chopped to even allow any angle. Rivnuts can be replaced but this idea is a bit scary. So I was thinking of alternatives: 1) Install some angle iron on the top of the bottom shelf along the sides and maybe even back of the shelf. That would allow for plate casters underneath and add some rigidity. The downside - other than I have zero experience working with that stuff - is the cost to do all 3 cabinets. :(

The second option, and one I'm beginning to lean to now, is building a frame base under the bottom of the shelf out of deck timber. Specifically 5/4" x 6". I could pre-drill some pockets screws and then install them in place. The upside besides increasing some rigidity, (I cannot spell that word the first time!), is the caster options it would present. My thought would be to drill right through both the wood and bottom plate and use a nut and locking washers from the top. Plus, it's a much cheaper option and would allow me to run some cross braces in the open area of the frame for really good insurance. Downside: my wife won't let me go to the store unless it's an emergency and Home Depot wants like $80 for delivery right now :wtf:

So what are your thoughts? Does that second option sound suitable if I want to keep those little "lips" under the shelf? And as far as casters, does going less than 2" per caster present a significant tipping hazard? Would you install more casters even, (like the four corners and others midway around the frame)?
 
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JoeyRoland82

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Your plywood base does not have to tuck under the flanges of the sheet metal.

Totally agree! Only thing is I want the casters to sit as close to the edges as possible. If I removed say just the rear flange, I could cut a piece to the full width and angle the slab into the recessed base. But would that make it noticeably more structurally stable than a built in from from those 5/4" x 6" boards? If it's negligible, my preference would be to save the flanges/lip sections.

And speaking of casters, if I treated this as two 18" cabinets glued together instead of one 36" cabinet and put four casters in the front and 4 in the back, is that going to make it any more stable or just help with rolling?

Thanks again for all the advice all!
 

CraigStu

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I'd am thinking cut the 3/4 plywood just slightly larger (1/4 inch) than the outside of the cabinet. Use either 1/8x1.5 aluminum or a wood trim about 3/8x1.5 to screw (and glue if you choose wood) to the outer edge so you end up w/ a 3/4 or so wall to locate the cabinet within the edges of the plywood. Paint it grey to match the cabinet and most people will never notice. You could run a machine screw through the wood into the rivnuts although gravity will probably work fine.
 
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JoeyRoland82

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Thanks Craig! I think the issue with that setup is the steel itself. I guess if this unit were left on a floor with no feet installed and never moved, it probably wouldn't crumble the little channel under its own weight. But putting it on a platform makes me a little suspicious about its rigidity. I like the idea though of mounting the base directly into the cabinet to sort of give it a wider footprint.

Side note about casters for this setup: would swivel casters that "slope" from the mounting plate cause this to be more unstable? Like the plate kind that sort of have an offset. I feel like I could install some sort of swivel stop so the casters don't turn a full 360 degrees and make the offset pointing away from the unit.
 

Dustball

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I think you're overthinking this. The thick plywood will distribute the weight over the entire metal floor more than the threaded leveling feet posts did.
 

nadogail

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IMHO, the plywood base will avoid the possible problem of point contacts on an uneven floor. Not saying that your floors are not perfectly flat.
 
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JoeyRoland82

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Hi All,
Sorry for the delay with this. I think the vast majority of internet forum posts just end abruptly and I promised I wouldn't be that guy. So I took pictures throughout the process and wanted to post for reference since this exact question seems to come up on every single site this cabinet is sold. Home Depot's delivery took forever but since getting all the materials, I've done 2 out of the 3 intended. The second attempt was much faster so it's not much of a learning curve after doing it once for anyone attempting.

As for my thoughts on all this and why I chose what I did, I was thinking:
  • A recessed plywood base would be very strong. But ultimately I'd need to remove 2 lips on the base's C channels to get the wood support in there and flush side to side/front to back.
  • A plywood base built to stand below the cabinet base would work, but would also make the cabinet taller and potentially wider if I also trimmed out the base. And unless using spacer blocks between the plywood and steel base, would transfer all the weight to the thin C channels. So if using spacers, I figured why not go with my current setup?
  • If I removed the rivnuts and mounted the casters directly to the steel, all the weight would rest on 4 points. That's how the cabinet works out of the box with the leveling feet, but the steel is pretty thin and unlock the stock setup, casters imply the need to move this thing around.

So ultimately, i went with:

A couple important things: The 2" bolts were all that were in stock at the time. I ended up having to take a dremel to every single one, (which is why this process really took so long) to shorten them. I initially was going to mount with the bolt head under the base, pointing up, so I didn't care so much about the length. But after getting into the thick of it, I decided to have the bolts pointing down and needed to remove around a 1/4" to allow the casters to spin freely. I'm not sure how much I removed, but it was a good bit on the bolts going to the locking casters.

As for the casters, they're nothing short of amazing. And eBay had several auctions for open box for like $10 less. Buying 3 sets, that was a significant incentive to go that route. But these babies are so smooth AND heavy with each set weighing in around 20lbs. Add the hardware and wood, and the base is immediately very bottom-heavy, (insert joke about the girls I like here)
If I were doing this from scratch again, I'd actually get some sort of steel mounting plate to rest on the top of the steel base. I put blue threadlock on all bolts and torqued each one to 13ft/lbs and the force created imperfections in the steel from the top of the base. So with all that said, my struggles to finished cabinets below. :beer:


Measuring the recessed bottom of the steel base:
01.jpg
02.jpg

Cutting the wood to length and some dry-fitting, (note the second long piece of wood need to be about 1/4" shorter in order to angle it in the recess:
03.jpg
04.jpg

Who doesn't like pocket holes? Assembling most of the base but the side panels require bolts/nuts so the final cross supports can't be installed until assembling the actual cabinets:
05.jpg

Drilling mounting holes for each caster from above and dry-fitting, (note I used the hole where the rivnuts were. I used one of those step bits to 3/8" to break through the steel and finished through the wood with a standard 3/8" bit. Pretty tedious.
06.jpg

Starting the actual assembly. Note the final two cross members are missing. I needed to chisel just a bit to accommodate the nuts securing the side panels. Then I threw in the final pieces to the wood base.
07.jpg
08.jpg
09.jpg

Time for the casters. And like a dummy, you'll notice they're not the same in these photos. Don't be like me and put the casters on randomly. I wanted the locking ones in the front and threw them on wrong in my first go. :lol_hitti
10.jpg
11.jpg

Moment of truth. They really look made for this cabinet and move so easily. Almost too easily. I'm a clean floor away from putting numbers and sponsor stickers on each and having a race!
12.jpg

The rest is just customizing. First foam liner and placing some supplies.
13.jpg
14.jpg

And the emblem. This is silly. I get it. I grew up with Craftsman, (99% of my collection is old USA stuff) and for a homeowner like me, they've never once failed me. So if I had a chance to throw a little bling on there, why not?
15.jpg
16.jpg
17.jpg
18.jpg

And all done!
19.jpg

So... I just wanted to follow up with how this turned out. I think you guys had a lot of good insight and if I hadn't removed the rivnuts, I may have approached this differently. I sincerely don't think my path is the only solution here. I'm super happy with how it turned out, but whether it's the plywood option or even the 2x4s with a router, anything added to support these things are likely a huge improvement on the thin steel. So saying all that -

THANK YOU! :beer:
 

vavet

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That looks great. I wish I’d seen your thread when you first started it. I have the same type of cabinets. I ordered a set of stem casters from amazon with the same thread and put them right in. I like how your wood base supports the whole bottom shelf, but I like how my stem casters screwed right in and took less than 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HLKKBQN/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

mcspeed

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Re: Installing Casters on Garage Cabinet: Advice (Updated Finished Cabinets)

Nice job! I too wanted cabinets on wheels so I could re arrange and move for cleaning. My concern with typical castors was the height which could make cabinet unstable. I used refrigerator castors that are very low profile. They have lasted 12 years and 3 moves. They don’t swivel but they roll easily and I can skid them to steer if needed.

I screwed steel to the bottom frame of the cabinet and bolted castors to steel. I built 5 and they have stood the test of time. 07f9640ff353ae0461ec9b24e286fa8f.jpg


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JoeyRoland82

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lol 5 minutes? I hate you right now. I wish I logged how much time I put into these but there's a huge part of me that's glad I don't know that number. I will say the only added benefit with the base is I can overload the bottom cabinet. I've put a good more bit of oil in there and it feels great. I'm even contemplating recessed supports for some of the other shelves. I think I need to know when to stop :)

And i never knew there was such thing as fridge casters! Makes sense. I wonder what the cost would've been but you're talking something that's lasted as long a teen right now. That's solid.
 

mikeinri

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Looks great. Couple of points:

PT wood is known to attack steel and make it rust. It's recommended to use stainless or galvanized hardware for this reason. May not cause an issue in your indoor application, but I'd keep an eye on it.

Try to keep the heaviest weight on the lowest shelves. Push from the lower half, and be mindful of the direction of the casters. That should help avoid tipping when moving.

Mike
 

driftpin

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Depending upon your load, you should consider some-type of releasing fastener at the top, to keep them from toppling. Something like an adjustable, spring-loaded turnbuckle, with a permanently-mounted loop screwed-into a wall stud. Two would be better, but one could probably do the job. Or, you could use a double-hook turnbuckle, and a stoutly-wound double-eye spring, with hardware to fasten it to the top of the cabinet, and to the wall, maybe a threaded clevis. Maybe a pair of these:
https://www.tulsachain.com/jaw-amp-...MIkKSDqf2u6QIVuR-tBh0y5QmvEAQYAiABEgL1UPD_BwE

Cheap-enough, and after loosening the turnbuckle a bit, you can pull the pin on one end, easy to do if you use a hitch-pin instead of the SS split-ring they use on these.

Ah, screw that. Having thought about it during the writing, I think a pair of these would work very-well. You'd just use an eye or a U-bolt on the top of the cabinet, and an eye/U-bolt on the wall, you don't have to tighten the turnbuckle much, you just want to prevent the thing from toppling-over if you had it move on you. A small U-bolt would work well, they're cheap. 1/4" X 20 TPI, $1.18 ea. Get the equivalent at your local hardware store.
https://www.boltdepot.com/U-Bolts_Round_bend_Hot_dipped_galvanized_steel_1_4-20.aspx?nv=l
 

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clubairth

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I try to put casters on almost everything I own so I have added casters to a number of different things including my steel cabinet.

I found the metal on these cabinets is just too thin for my liking. I build an angle iron frame around the base of the cabinet. This vastly stiffens the entire cabinet. I get used casters off EBay that are massively over rated for what I need. I also prefer stud mounted casters. I add a square pad of 1/2" thick plate under the corners to give me a nice flat surface so I can center and drill the hole. This also has the advantage of placing the casters further out from the corners to prevent tipping. The frame is plug welded inside the base of the cabinet to the angle iron.

The caster are rated for 300 lbs each. Note the grease fitting on the wheel. I find that casters with built in lubrication fittings are better quality and have ball bearings.

attachment.php


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JoeyRoland82

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Thanks all! And I had no idea pressure treated wood would have any adverse effect. I figured buying "ground contact" was being being on the safe side. I even thought about painting/staining the base just to add another level of protection. It was already pretty tedious for someone with my skills [lack of?], and I was afraid I'd let the dry time wind up being a deterrent and procrastinate.

That said, the cabinets almost feel firmer when moving. I mean, I guess it's obvious with an additional support at the bottom, but even loaded up, (with heavier stuff like oil and other fluids at the bottom), it doesn't feel like it wants to tip. Considering what's at stake if they did fall on a car or something, I was looking at one of those Ikea furniture kits and thinking of a way to make it removable/locking before i saw driftpin's post. Farking brilliant! I'm trying to mount a shelf across the entire wall just above these cabinets and all and need to figure out how to share the space behind the cabinets with the shelf supports, (even the lowest profile ones are pretty gaudy).

On another note, final set of casters arrived last night and I'm working on round three! Plus more Craftsman emblems because I'm that **** now. :)
 

futbol9

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That looks great. I wish I’d seen your thread when you first started it. I have the same type of cabinets. I ordered a set of stem casters from amazon with the same thread and put them right in. I like how your wood base supports the whole bottom shelf, but I like how my stem casters screwed right in and took less than 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HLKKBQN/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have 2 tall gladiator cabinets too. So all you did was to screw in these casters and thats it?MySit 2" Stem Casters with Brake, 3/8"-16x1" Heavy Duty Threaded Stem Caster Wheels Rubber No Noise Swivel Castors Bolt with Nuts for Carts Furniture Dolly Workbench Trolley(4 Pack)​

 

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vavet

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I have 2 tall gladiator cabinets too. So all you did was to screw in these casters and thats it?MySit 2" Stem Casters with Brake, 3/8"-16x1" Heavy Duty Threaded Stem Caster Wheels Rubber No Noise Swivel Castors Bolt with Nuts for Carts Furniture Dolly Workbench Trolley(4 Pack)​

Yep, direct swap for the feet. Do yourself a favor and double check the thread size before you order. Make sure there was not a change to it somewhere along the way.
 

isb cornbinder

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I like to install casters on all 4 corners. I like to have two locking direction casters, one on opposite corners. This way the cabinet direction can be controlled.
 

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futbol9

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Yep, direct swap for the feet. Do yourself a favor and double check the thread size before you order. Make sure there was not a change to it somewhere along the way.
Check out the thread size of the feet currently installed in cabinets?
 

futbol9

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futbol9

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2023
Messages
12
I don't know who should I ask but maybe you know. Do you thinknit will be safe to put one of my gladiator cabinets infront of garage water heater to cover it? It's a gas water heater.
 

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nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,979
Location
Coronado, CA
I weld frames from repurposed bed frame and set plywood into the frames. The casters can be mounted to the frames or to the plywood.

To the best of my recollection, I believe that all my shop equipment is on either wheels or casters.
 
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