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Learning to WELD!

dr_clyde

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Not a bad weld for your experience level.

That looks a little cold, and a little under-filled. Looks like you're focused a bit too much on the bottom plate. A lap weld should just nip the top edge of the top plate.

I'd bump your heat up to 130 or so. Wiggle your tungsten up and down a little, the heat goes where you point it. Add rod at the top of the wiggle. Basically, you're guiding the puddle along with the tungsten.
 
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bczygan

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Not a bad weld for your experience level.

That looks a little cold, and a little under-filled. Looks like you're focused a bit too much on the bottom plate. A lap weld should just nip the top edge of the top plate.

I'd bump your heat up to 130 or so. Wiggle your tungsten up and down a little, the heat goes where you point it. Add rod at the top of the wiggle. Basically, you're guiding the puddle along with the tungsten.

I know what you are saying. On previous attempts I was going slower with less heat and ended up all on the lower plate and snaking back and forth. Couldn't sense the edge of the upper plate. Or I got too close and burned right through the edge. I did try using the filler rod to push the puddle closer to the edge of the upper plate and it worked but then lost track of other things. Too many things to keep track of.

Was sticking the filler into the tungsten, had trouble with the stick out and never made more than half a bead without having to stop. Even stuck the tungsten a number of times. It was a mess. This was the first full length bead that went in the corner. I was jamming the filler rod at the bottom and flooring the pedal, to cut down on the variables. And also because I'm suffering from essential tremors.

My hands shake when not anchored to something. I did get better with a steady movement of the tungsten, moving the puddle steadily forward. Before that it was jerky. Next I'll try to add in dabbing the puddle and moving it up to the edge. I've got to get better at feeding the filler through my left hand too. I sometimes just move my hand and it gets too hot. Finally I hope to add in the pedal to control the heat.

Lots to do at once. Got to learn to pat my tummy while I rub my head.:lol_hitti

Bill
 
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bimmer1980

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Bill-- just keep working on it... I find that it helps to focus on one item at a time. I started off torch welding in high school. We spent a fair bit of time just pulling the puddle. Once we were proficient at that, then we added in filler rod and focused on getting consistent beads.

Making the transition to TIG a few years later was easier as I already had the muscle memory of running beads.

You may want to try a few beads without fill rod and focused on heat control or consistent of Arc motions. Once you have built some muscle memory, it will be easier to add in the fill rod and allow your mind and hand to focus on feeding it in...

Regardless, at least you are getting some seat time!!
 

PhantomEB

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Just waiting to find a consistent pay local job then I plan to pick up a TiG machine and practice the hell out of as most the local jobs are stainless jobs in the Food industry like Old Dutch and Pepsi.
 

dr_clyde

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I'm amazed they have you learning on plain hot rolled and not pickled and oiled. What a pain in the ***.
 
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bczygan

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I'm amazed they have you learning on plain hot rolled and not pickled and oiled. What a pain in the ***.

That is cold rolled. I power wire brushed just the welds afterwards, to make it look better. We have a limited amount of that material.

In the interest of having more time to weld, we are not cleaning up the material first.

We will be doing some stainless and aluminum, but time is short.

We have hot rolled for stick.

We waste a LOT of material by cutting too large pieces. I've been reusing by cutting the welds out where I can.


Bill
 
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bczygan

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dr_clyde

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While it is much lighter than hot rolled, it does have a light grey surface that can be ground off or wire wheeled, to show a bright shiny metal surface.

Cold rolled is just hot rolled that has been further processed, and can have different surfaces, depending on the processing.

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/difference-between-hot-rolled-steel-and-cold-rolled-steel/

Bill

I'm very familiar with the differences. I have never ever had any scale whatsoever on cold rolled steel. Clean, ready to weld, no wire brushing required.

I'm not doubting what your instructor told you, but the pictures I see look very much like hot rolled sheet.

I weld a TON of sheet metal, and handle it every day. I'm not trying to start something, it just looks very much like hot rolled.
 
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bczygan

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I'm very familiar with the differences. I have never ever had any scale whatsoever on cold rolled steel. Clean, ready to weld, no wire brushing required.

I'm not doubting what your instructor told you, but the pictures I see look very much like hot rolled sheet.

I weld a TON of sheet metal, and handle it every day. I'm not trying to start something, it just looks very much like hot rolled.

It is 1/8". Is that sheet? I know sheet is cold rolled, but as the article says, thicker metals are called cold rolled, but technically they are not.

Could that be what is going on here?

Bill
 

dr_clyde

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It is 1/8". Is that sheet? I know sheet is cold rolled, but as the article says, thicker metals are called cold rolled, but technically they are not.

Could that be what is going on here?

Bill

Yes, 1/8" is still considered sheet. Anything with a gage callout is still sheet. Up to about 7ga, which is 3/16"

Not all sheet metal is cold rolled. In fact, most common steel sheet metal is actually hot rolled, pickled and oiled. (HRPO)

I should also point out that there is a LOT of thicker metal that is cold rolled. Lots of bars and rounds are cold rolled in addition to sheet. It is not uncommon to get cold rolled steel in very thick and heavy bars.

My laser shop stocks cold rolled for all plain steel cutting, due to dimensional stability and cutting consistency, and I don't see any scale on it at all when I work with it.

I have see that surface on temper pass sheet, which is a secondary process done to both hot and cold rolled sheet steel.
 
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bczygan

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Yes, 1/8" is still considered sheet. Anything with a gage callout is still sheet. Up to about 7ga, which is 3/16"

Not all sheet metal is cold rolled. In fact, most common steel sheet metal is actually hot rolled, pickled and oiled. (HRPO)

I should also point out that there is a LOT of thicker metal that is cold rolled. Lots of bars and rounds are cold rolled in addition to sheet. It is not uncommon to get cold rolled steel in very thick and heavy bars.

My laser shop stocks cold rolled for all plain steel cutting, due to dimensional stability and cutting consistency, and I don't see any scale on it at all when I work with it.

I have see that surface on temper pass sheet, which is a secondary process done to both hot and cold rolled sheet steel.

You learned me some stuff!

The instructor said this stuff was expensive, and we only have 2 lengths of it. So it is likely some intermediate material.

Bill
 
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bczygan

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Stopped in to the fabrication class today, and welded up a third hand. My first welding fabrication.

Ignore the copper tube. It will be replaced with a heavy hunk of steel at the nose of the device or maybe moveable.

Bill
 

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bczygan

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TIG a T joint in aluminum.......

Hardest thing I've done yet, partly because we're using very thin aluminum.

Just about getting the right combination of heat and speed and rhythm.

One weld that was too fat (Too much heat and filler) and then a smaller one but too much heat (changed angle and burned through).

But learning to feather the pedal. Did some dimes on the flat.

Got to wait until Monday or Tuesday to try again. Meanwhile I'm watching videos.

Bill
 
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bczygan

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Bill,
Great progress on the welds! Looking good! Wish I could take a similar class here.)
(and that definitely looks like 1/8" Hot rolled bar to me...)

48. Washington

Institutions in Washington are required to partially or fully waive tuition fees for residents age 60 or older who are enrolled for credit on a space-available basis. Nominal fees may apply to students auditing courses.

Some schools limit senior citizens to a certain number of classes or credits; for example, Washington State University caps the waiver at six credits in each of fall and spring semesters. Other schools may only offer tuition-free audit options.


http://www.aseniorcitizenguideforcollege.com/2016/02/washington.html

Bill
 

PugetDude

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48. Washington

Institutions in Washington are required to partially or fully waive tuition fees for residents age 60 or older who are enrolled for credit on a space-available basis. Nominal fees may apply to students auditing courses.

Some schools limit senior citizens to a certain number of classes or credits; for example, Washington State University caps the waiver at six credits in each of fall and spring semesters. Other schools may only offer tuition-free audit options.


http://www.aseniorcitizenguideforcollege.com/2016/02/washington.html


Bill

Bill, the issue is curriculum, not cost.
 
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bczygan

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Still working on T joint welds. Have been running too hot and fast. Am now learning to set the amps high to generate the puddle and then feather the puddle to reduce heat and slow the speed and reduce the size of the puddle.

It's giving me more control. Plus less burn through and time to more accurately place the puddle. Next I will try to get a better rhythm going to make more uniform work.

Did walk in registration for the next course in welding.

WLT 105 MIG/Flux-Core/Plasma Welding.

Spring semester, starts in January.

Also signed up for Suspension and Steering I and Surface Preparation and Fillers.

Bill
 
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bczygan

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Latest one.

Still a little jerky, but playing the pedal and getting a rhythm going from time to time.

Getting much more control of the heat and puddle.

Bill
 

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strength_and_power

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Latest one.



Still a little jerky, but playing the pedal and getting a rhythm going from time to time.



Getting much more control of the heat and puddle.



Bill



I’ve heard/read from several people that having music on while welding helps them get their travel and dabs consistent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bimmer1980

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Latest one.

Still a little jerky, but playing the pedal and getting a rhythm going from time to time.

Getting much more control of the heat and puddle.

Bill

While it is not the "prettiest" weld in the book for welding ****, it is servicable. More than sufficient to hold something together.

Getting smooth and consistent weld beads takes time to build up the muscle memory and the automatic control.

Keep at it! You are making progress!
 

sberry

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Also it takes a bit to learn to feed the rod consistently with 1 hand and finger movement on auto pilot. I have seen guys master it to be able to move it every dab.
 
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bczygan

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Also it takes a bit to learn to feed the rod consistently with 1 hand and finger movement on auto pilot. I have seen guys master it to be able to move it every dab.

Been working on that. Hate it when the hot puddle and torch approach my filler hand. Also using full length filler rods.

Tried out a different hand position on the torch. Much more comfortable.

I'm finding that if I can control as many variables with proper habits and techniques, then I can focus on reining in the remaining ones that are giving me trouble. Getting better every session. Heat, torch angles, material cleaning, Tungsten sharpening, arc length, torch manipulation, filler rod placement, speed, pedal feathering etc. And self critique on all parts of every weld.

I picked up an extra class session on Monday, and will again tomorrow, for extra TIG seat time. This is the fabrication class.

This morning was my TIG class.

The instructor was watching me do my umpteenth T joint.

He commented how funny it was to watch my filler rod hand shake all over while I welded. I have an essential tremor that has recently become noticeable in both hands. I've goth the torch hand mostly controlled but the filler rod hand still flails too much.

Still working on consistency and also to slow down, reduce heat and make smaller beads.

Tried some lap welds on the very thin aluminum which really requires that. It will be good practice for narrower beads when I go back to the "T".

Lucky to be able to get 5 class sessions per week, but only 2 weeks left to go. 9 total sessions. School ends on the 10th. Then welding withdrawal. Gotta get my machines hooked up!

Photos later.

Bill
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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Primarily TIG.
I'm going to look into a course in AZ after we move.
Nothing anywhere close to here on the Olympic Peninsula. Everything would be a 100 mile drive and/or a ferry ride.

Mesa Community College has TIG courses. I'd love to take one to improve my skills, but I can't swing it between work and family obligations.
 
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bczygan

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Went in for an extra session this morning.

Lots of ups and downs.

Start of bead is good and then it goes to hell. Or can't get in the groove until halfway through, and the rest is a wonderful dance.

Morning and evening sessions tomorrow. School ends on the 10th, so trying to get all the practice I can.

Bill
 

NitroShark

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Couple hints since your just learning.

1) cut your 36" rods in half. It will help you out a lot with hand feed control.

2) when you evaluate your weld quality, Look on the "back side" of the weld and notice your weld/heat penetration. When you start to improve you will notice a nice heat burn without "drop through" and skipped heat areas.


Hope that make sense!
 
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bczygan

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I'm now a professional welder!!!

See attached project photo.

Made it for the instructor.

Got paid with a Snickers bar.

I'm having business cards made up!

Bill
 

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Craptain

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I'm now a professional welder!!!

See attached project photo.

Made it for the instructor.

Got paid with a Snickers bar.

I'm having business cards made up!

Bill
WOW that's really great Bill.


Err, what is it?


Seriously though, Congratulations.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
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bczygan

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WOW that's really great Bill.


Err, what is it?


Seriously though, Congratulations.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

You are seeing it upside down. The 2 short sections of tubing are the feet. The 4 tabs will bolt to the bottom of some wood that will be upholstered. Used somehow for exercise.

My wife loves Snickers bars, so I think she's going to eat all the profits. I've got to cut 1/3 off of it first, so the government gets their share.

And of course, I want to do it over, since I think I could do the welding better.

Bill
 
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