Let's see your axes

[d42jeep]

Thanks, Lugz!
-Don

 

[Outlawmws]

A small one I picked up yesterday cheap. only markings are the remnants of the paper label - I could not find anything in several image searches...

"The ?ider"? Rider? No clue what the image to the left is. I thought it might be a knight at first but the more I look, the less I think that..

 

[Duke74]

Anyone recognize this maker’s mark?

 

[RTM]

Woodings-Verona Tool Works Catalogue 16 : Woodings-Verona Tool Works : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

82 p., illus., 24.4 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

 

[Duke74]

Woodings-Verona Tool Works Catalogue 16 : Woodings-Verona Tool Works : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

82 p., illus., 24.4 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

Thanks RTM! I will post pics of my vintage axes at some point.

 

[slik560]

I'm just starting to refurb my dad's circa 1958 Plumb axe. The head is soaking in vinegar right now, but I was curious if the original handle is salvageable or if I should just source a new hickory handle for it. I've not cleaned it up at all, but the photos show that the very front of the eye area had broken off. Otherwise, the handle seems solid -no rot or softness anywhere - but I'm not sure if there is enough shoulder left to re-mount the head.



Any feedback appreciated.

 

[Outlawmws]

As long as the wood is solid, I'd remount. Drop the shoulder maybe halfway, make a GOOD wood wedge. go for it...

 

[slik560]

Thanks. It did seem a shame to scrap this handle and I'd really like to re-use it for both practical and sentimental reasons. It may be a while, but I'll post a couple of shots of the finished product.

 

[930dreamer]

Double blade axe props the bedroom door open.

 

[Outlawmws]

Might make any visitors a mite nervous?

 

[Duke74]

Hey everyone. I added a bunch of vintage axes to my collection today and I am pretty excited about them. These are just the ones I got today. Check out the pics and offer feedback if you want. Thanks

 

[Duke74]

2 more that it wouldn’t let me upload.

 

[Trapps]

Double blade axe props the bedroom door open.

Hate to stub my toe on that at 3:17am...

 

[d.mcfarland]

Great collection Duke74!

 

[Duke74]

Great collection Duke74!

Thanks d.mc

 

[Catfishdan]

I’m not a big axe guy, but I couldn’t resist this Keen Kutter head. I think I’ll clean it up and put it back in service.

 

[Outlawmws]

I picked up an Ax Yesterday- it's Swedish Military issue: Some have three crowns like this, some tow (or like me misread the top two as one...)? handle length is supposed to be 28". 2.6 lb head?






On some Google Fu:

I have no clue as to it's age. I don't think the 44 is necessarily a date, but it may be?. I also found several references to axes marked KB42. One (with pics on Instagram) clearly showed the KB42 and 3 crowns but a different head style and it was a hatchet as well? Much shorter haft. (Which I may "Fix" this one by making the haft short...)

So possibly a MFG/Date code, not a "Model of" like in the US?

I did find the KB may be for "Kimo Bruk" or "Hults Bruk", (unverified) - Swedish MFGs, but a possibly better researched source is here: http://sharky-fourbees.blogspot.com/2016/10/swedish-military-axe-kolefors-bruk-1942.html

That says this was Kölefors Bruk 1942, KB42, (Same head style as mine, and long handle...) and that it was WW2 issued and the "dates" indicate war issue? However a comment on the same article states that Hults Bruks made the axes after 1967 made to the same specifications? - That may be the Hults Bruk confusion elsewhere?

Apparently Sportsmans Guide has had them several times over the years, and were popular with the Bushcraft crowd.

 

[RTM]

I have a hatchet head, sent from a friend in Finland, marked GBC Crown Made in Sweden 38-2 (Hults Bruk). He said that the company ceased to exist, but apparently has been resurrected, at least the name, in the present.

Hults Bruk Axes - About the company

Since 1697, Hults Bruk has been forging the finest axes in the world from its factory in Norrkoping, Sweden

hultsbruk1697.se

 

[jonshonda]

So I have been splitting wood into smaller pieces for our offset smoker. I have a Task brand boys axe (2-1/4lb head, 28" handle) that I always have in the camper, as it is a great size for breaking up already split wood. Well, I wanted another one for the house, and figured my 10yo son would like having his own axe. So....in typical GJ fashion I jumped on epray and found an auction with 5 boys axe heads. Then, ordered 5 hand picked, no laquer, octagon handles from house handle.

The winter project mode has begun!

 

[Mintgrun]

I found this old guy under a muddy mat of roots I peeled off of the concrete dam spillway. Hard to describe the setting, but it used to be under water, before the lower dam washed out. The dams were built in 1957, so it could have been under there for quite some time. I'm afraid it is beyond restoration.

 

[Outlawmws]

It'll Buff O... Maybe not....


Cool find though!

 

[RTM]

You aren’t going to ask us to identify the maker and age?

 

[Mintgrun]

You aren’t going to ask us to identify the maker and age?

Haha. The thought occurred to me. I'm sure it is not the oldest one in this thread, but I'll bet it is the oldest looking one! It's like a zombie hatchet.

Cool find though!

Thanks, I was excited when I found it. I tapped on it with a hammer when it was still wet and thick layers of old steel flaked off. I'd better not do that again, or there won't be much left! What do you suppose the electrolysis bucket would do to it? Or, maybe a dunk in Evaporust?

 

[saukit]

Here's an old one dug out of a barn. Pretty sure this is American Axe and Tool Co out of Glassport PA. Happy to be corrected though as the stamp is mostly gone. It's seen better days for sure but I'll see what I can do to get a handle on it.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd be inclined to leaving as is, wood and all. it will never be more tan a wall hanger no mater what. Id you do I'd wonder if the cracked parts would break up?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I'd be inclined to leaving as is,

In all seriousness, I'd be tempted to frame that under glass "as is" accompanied by any number of clever fake brass caption tags referring to Daniel Boone or George Washington.

 

[Mintgrun]

Id you do I'd wonder if the cracked parts would break up?

Yes, it is literally falling apart now. If I tipped it over, chunks would fall out. I could glue the loose pieces in to preserve it, but am guessing it will continue to crumble.

In all seriousness, I'd be tempted to frame that under glass "as is" accompanied by any number of clever fake brass caption tags referring to Daniel Boone or George Washington.

I like the way you think, Lugs!

I was thinking maybe I should put it back where I found it and let it decompose naturally.

Tom

 

[Mr. Tool]

Adding to keep this thread going!......

Happen to come across this STIHL Hatchet when roaming around the Northern Tool store yesterday.

Recently I had been searching for another basic hatchet with a wood handle (nothing fancy or high-end) to commonly use, etc. and well when the sales associate girl show'd me the Stihl (it was their very last one in that size) hatchet along with the price for it ($35.00) I decided that I'd take it (along with a few other things). Some time back I was given a Northern Tool gift card so that alone cover'd the total cost of the Stihl hatchet!

Can't wait to try it out!

Anyone else happen to have this specific Stihl hatchet?

I have a smaller hatchet with a hard rubber or some other type of material handle that I had quickly purchased a couple years back at our local True Value hardware store, as well as a larger regular axe. I'll post pictures of them later on this thread.
STIHL describes their hatchet as follows:

Woodcutter Camp & Forestry Hatchet​

A lightweight hatchet for use around the home, farm or ranch​

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/woodforesthatchet/

Anyway here are a few pictures!

 

[Mr. Tool]

Re: Let's see your axe's

Here's my Marbles in "as found" condition:



Showing the nail puller in the back of the head





I haven't taken any pics since I cleaned this one up but I can tell you it's some of the finest tool steel I've run a file across. No blemishes, imperfections or defects of any kind.


Drives - Love those photos!!! I hope to see more of these posted, I'll be watching for more over the future.

Really like "Showing the nail puller in the back of the head"......what an awesome idea!

 

[Provincial]

The way the back end of most of the hatchets I've seen have been peened over by being used as a blacksmithing hammer, that nail puller wouldn't last long in the hands of the average owner! I still like the idea.

 

[Outlawmws]

The way the back end of most of the hatchets I've seen have been peened over by being used as a blacksmithing hammer, that nail puller wouldn't last long in the hands of the average owner! I still like the idea.

Ditto!

 

[Pexto]

Here's a pair of Norlund axes. I found the one on the left at a yard sale last summer. The handle had 3 or 4 nails holding the head on but was otherwise in good shape. I dug the nails and wedge out, refitted the handle, gave it a coat of shellac, filed the peening away, and sharpened it. Nice little axe!

The one on the right belongs to a buddy. I was staying at his cabin and broke the handle on his axe. This is an axe he's had since he was 16. The handle was not original so he wasn't too worried about it; told me to just reuse the handle rather than buying a new one. So I cut a new tenon on the handle and fitted it. A coat of shellac and some filing, and hopefully it's good for a while. This axe has been used quite a bit - it has about 3/8" less meat on it than the other one. That's a lot of filing!

 

[Mr. Tool]

Found this article interesting and just wanted to share it here....

What's the Best Wood for an Axe Handle? | Home Grail

You may be surprised to hear that not all types of wood will work as a handle for your axe. So before you buy or make your own, you'll want to read this.

housegrail.com

Happy New Years Eve everyone!

Stay safe while celebrating, whatever it is your planning on doing and....test negative and stay positive!

 

[Mr. Tool]

Have had this large axe now for several years now (looking at it though you wouldn’t think so) that has been both good and dependable. The handle is hickory.

Recently helped me knock down a tree!

Thought I’d post it here.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Also just purchased (this afternoon) this Special Roofing “Windchester hatchet” as I believe it is called?

Maybe called a "Roofer's hatchet" or "Hammer Head hatchet" ?

If anyone knows the correct name for this particular hatchet let me know.

Since I first saw this type of hatchet posted here on the thread I kept on the look out for one and well I came across it at our local Feed Store.

I’m satisfied with it.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Found these two video's kinda interesting.

 

[Tynee]

Adding to keep this thread going!......

Happen to come across this STIHL Hatchet when roaming around the Northern Tool store yesterday.

Recently I had been searching for another basic hatchet with a wood handle (nothing fancy or high-end) to commonly use, etc. and well when the sales associate girl show'd me the Stihl (it was their very last one in that size) hatchet along with the price for it ($35.00) I decided that I'd take it (along with a few other things). Some time back I was given a Northern Tool gift card so that alone cover'd the total cost of the Stihl hatchet!

Can't wait to try it out!

Anyone else happen to have this specific Stihl hatchet?

I have a smaller hatchet with a hard rubber or some other type of material handle that I had quickly purchased a couple years back at our local True Value hardware store, as well as a larger regular axe. I'll post pictures of them later on this thread.
STIHL describes their hatchet as follows:

Woodcutter Camp & Forestry Hatchet​

A lightweight hatchet for use around the home, farm or ranch​

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/woodforesthatchet/

Anyway here are a few pictures!

How are you liking this Stihl hatchet? I almost pulled the trigger on one several months ago at almost double the price. Just looked on Nothern Tool's website, they don't show any available.

 

[Mr. Tool]

How are you liking this Stihl hatchet? I almost pulled the trigger on one several months ago at almost double the price. Just looked on Nothern Tool's website, they don't show any available.

So far I have only used it once....and aggressively at that....but in just using it that one time I am very satisfied with my selection with it.

I'm not disappointed with how it handles.

By the way I now have (4) four hatchets (and one large axe) and use them all.

Hopefully you'll be able to find one, if one cannot be found at a Northern Tool store then perhaps directly from Stihl's website?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/woodforesthatchet/

 

[2oolhound]

Customizing a small ax.
I decided I wanted to create a special carving ax from one of my ax heads. I’ll point out now that a carving ax is not meant for chopping. The blade is held with one hand while the handle is held usually right next to the blade except for sometimes when you might hold the handle near it’s far end for some leverage and control. I should also mention I spent about 10 or more years building log homes so this experience is where these design ideas come from. I hadn’t planned to document the process so I don’t have any “before” photos but this one is close. I’ve drawn in some black lines along the top where I have started cutting into the head to give an idea of the original shape.



I used a horizontal bandsaw (in the vertical position, think metal bandsaw) and a zip disc on an angle grinder for most of the cutting. The ax head was about 2.5lbs to start with. There were no markings at all on this ax which is another reason I chose it. I didn’t want to cut up a cool old ax. However it’s not to say this ax was low quality, on the contrary I soon discovered it was really nice steel. If you look closely you can see the line that runs along from the bottom where I have cut up to the top. This is the generous amount of tool steel that was forged to the front edge for the cutting surface.



I sketched out a rough design on the ax with a felt pen. This was an evolutionary process that developed as I went about drawing it out. Originally I’d thought along the lines of a Hudson Bay ax for the back end but about here I got the bright idea to make a small adze head along the back side.


​

There are 2 ways to fit logs on the walls of a log house. One is to chink the spaces between the logs (caused by knots and bumps in their shape) with moss etc. to make them air tight and the other is to scribe the exact shape of the bottom log onto the log above it on both sides and then come along and cut out the “V” of wood between the scribe lines on the bottom of the top log. This way the top log fits exactly airtight atop the lower log. When cutting the “V” a chainsaw is usually the go to tool but you don’t cut to the scribe line. You use a hand ax to shave the last bit of wood out to the line.
The other thing you often do with a hand ax is shave little scallops of wood off a surface of maybe a window sill to create a bit of a slope for rain water to run off. Think of this like machinists used to do on cast surfaces with bearing scrapers (but a lot cruder).

When you are axing in this way and run into a knot it’s hard to get past the knot by shaving with the blade of the ax and this is why I put the tiny adze in the back of the head. You can carefully chip out knots in surfaces you are hand axing. Hand axed surfaces look gorgeous and are pretty much smooth and free of slivers.



I can be a bit of a cheapskate sometimes so when it came time to think about the haft I didn’t want to go buy the ideal piece of hardwood somewhere. I hate leaving the garage to go buy something so I thought about the piece of Gary Oak I’d scrounged from a landscaper. I know it’s not the same caliber of oak you find in the prairie provinces or central USA but worth a try and the price is right.



I needed a special bend so the head would be canted downward to expose the adze more.



After slabbing the log with a chainsaw, bandsawing out the stave and rough fitting the head:



the final smoothing was done with an abrasive disc on and angle grinder, wood rasps and then sand paper.

 

[Tynee]

Customizing a small ax.
I decided I wanted to create a special carving ax from one of my ax heads. I’ll point out now that a carving ax is not meant for chopping. The blade is held with one hand while the handle is held usually right next to the blade except for sometimes when you might hold the handle near it’s far end for some leverage and control. I should also mention I spent about 10 or more years building log homes so this experience is where these design ideas come from. I hadn’t planned to document the process so I don’t have any “before” photos but this one is close. I’ve drawn in some black lines along the top where I have started cutting into the head to give an idea of the original shape.



I used a horizontal bandsaw (in the vertical position, think metal bandsaw) and a zip disc on an angle grinder for most of the cutting. The ax head was about 2.5lbs to start with. There were no markings at all on this ax which is another reason I chose it. I didn’t want to cut up a cool old ax. However it’s not to say this ax was low quality, on the contrary I soon discovered it was really nice steel. If you look closely you can see the line that runs along from the bottom where I have cut up to the top. This is the generous amount of tool steel that was forged to the front edge for the cutting surface.



I sketched out a rough design on the ax with a felt pen. This was an evolutionary process that developed as I went about drawing it out. Originally I’d thought along the lines of a Hudson Bay ax for the back end but about here I got the bright idea to make a small adze head along the back side.


​

There are 2 ways to fit logs on the walls of a log house. One is to chink the spaces between the logs (caused by knots and bumps in their shape) with moss etc. to make them air tight and the other is to scribe the exact shape of the bottom log onto the log above it on both sides and then come along and cut out the “V” of wood between the scribe lines on the bottom of the top log. This way the top log fits exactly airtight atop the lower log. When cutting the “V” a chainsaw is usually the go to tool but you don’t cut to the scribe line. You use a hand ax to shave the last bit of wood out to the line.
The other thing you often do with a hand ax is shave little scallops of wood off a surface of maybe a window sill to create a bit of a slope for rain water to run off. Think of this like machinists used to do on cast surfaces with bearing scrapers (but a lot cruder).

When you are axing in this way and run into a knot it’s hard to get past the knot by shaving with the blade of the ax and this is why I put the tiny adze in the back of the head. You can carefully chip out knots in surfaces you are hand axing. Hand axed surfaces look gorgeous and are pretty much smooth and free of slivers.



I can be a bit of a cheapskate sometimes so when it came time to think about the haft I didn’t want to go buy the ideal piece of hardwood somewhere. I hate leaving the garage to go buy something so I thought about the piece of Gary Oak I’d scrounged from a landscaper. I know it’s not the same caliber of oak you find in the prairie provinces or central USA but worth a try and the price is right.



I needed a special bend so the head would be canted downward to expose the adze more.



After slabbing the log with a chainsaw, bandsawing out the stave and rough fitting the head:



the final smoothing was done with an abrasive disc on and angle grinder, wood rasps and then sand paper.

Ultra-cool.