Outlawmws
Well-known member
Jon, that one also needs posted in the Long C Craftsman thread! I'm certain its Prewar!
Let's see your axes
- Thread starter topop101
- Start date
Yeah, no problem. Its pretty straightforward and I pretty much follow the instructions on the bottle. I've got a hatchet that should be coming out of the electrolysis tank in the next few days and I'll take a some of pics when I treat it.
bargainhuntingking
Well-known member
Bought my first double bit. I am a member of the local mountain biking club, and am in charge of 7 miles of trails at one of our local systems. This will come in handy for removing roots, and other various tasks.
The seller had it listed for $75, with no takers. I was a patient fella and waited for a few weeks to see if it sold. Well, finally met up and struck a deal for $30. It looks like they handed a grinder to Michael J Fox and asked for a good sharpening. Honestly some of the worst sharpening I have ever seen.
The haft also needed work, as it was a little loose, but in otherwise fine usable condition. So I took my time with a flap disk and removed the damage from the grinder, then finished up with a file. Then have the haft a few good smacks with my Trusty Cook dead blow. Filled in the gaps with BLO, and caped it off with wood glue. If it continues to move I will have to result in more drastic measures, but for now I will see how it holds up.
20210112_101623 by Jon S, on Flickr
20210112_101726 by Jon S, on Flickr
Great looking Craftsman double bit axe. I too have capped some of my re-hafted axes with wood glue on top. I wonder if they will hold up as well as an equivalent axe just soaked in BLO. I should get two axes and run this experiment. Meanwhile my 2 1/4 lb head Craftsman boys axe which I rehafted (or is it rehaft?) on a longer, thicker 24” handle and capped with wood glue is still my go to axe for Christmas tree felling in the Mt Baker National Forest (latest victim pictured below). Still solid with no wobble so far!
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d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Hmmm, I'd have been tempted to do something silly with the original logo from the old handle - maybe an inlet into the new one...
Over the weekend, the hatchet head was pulled from the electrolysis tank and I took step by step photos of the process I use to blue (blacken) an axe head using a product called Oxpho Blue.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ld-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx
When I was reviewing the photos for the purpose of making this post, I learned that my cell phone camera does not like to take pictures of dark objects with a white background and all the photos I took of the hatchet head at each step of the process look pretty much the same. ****. Well, that's just how it goes sometimes. Here's the step-by-step anyway...
CYA Statement:
It should be noted, I am not a cold bluing expert. This is the process I use. I'm not saying its right or wrong, its just what I've found to work after bluing a dozen or so axes and other random parts. This is very much a YMMV situation - you might want something to be black, but it might end up gray. If you ruin something or kill yourself, don't come complaining to me.
De-Rust
Start by removing any rust from the axe head. I use electrolysis, but have used vinegar in the past - use whatever works best for you. Once I pull the head from the tank, I use a wire brush and coarse steel wool to clean off any loose material. If you use vinegar, make sure to neutralize the part with a baking soda bath.
Alcohol/Acetone
I use ~90% isopropyl alcohol and a cotton rag to wipe down the axe head to remove most of whatever is left on the axe. If you were really OCD, you could probably spend quite a bit of time on this step. I just clean the axe as much as is practical - "good enough" seems to be good enough from what I've found. Acetone would probably work as well, although I haven't used it.
Warm
I warm up the axe head by putting it on my kerosene convection space heater for a few minutes. You don't want it to be hot, just slightly warm in the hand. If you were doing this in summer and the axe temp were higher, say 80F, I'm not sure how much this step is really needed. I just know when the material is cold to the touch, the bluing process does not work very well. If you overheat it, the bluing will smoke when applied. I'm pretty sure that is not something you want to inhale, so again, slightly warm, not hot.
Prepare the Blue
While the axe is on the heater, prepare for bluing by pouring a small amount of the bluing chemical into a small container. You do not want to contaminate your bottle by dipping your application brush directly into it - always use a second container.
Blue
Using an acid brush, flood the bluing chemical onto the axe head. Work on one side at a time, just keeping a layer of liquid on the side of the axe for a few minutes, letting it do its thing. Take your time, don't hurry this part of the process. After a few minutes, I flip the axe over and flood the other side. Same deal, just keep a consistent layer of liquid on the side and take my time. I'll also let the bluing run down the edges and try to keep them coated as well. I usually flood each side three times before moving onto the next step. If all is going well, the axe is usually pretty well black after the second coat. By the third coat, you can't really see the bluing liquid doing anything.
Blot
Use a rag to blot away any bluing compound and dry the axe head.
Buff
Soak a pad of fine steel wool (I use 4/0) with oil (I use PB Blaster) and lightly buff the axe. You can see how well the bluing took at this point. The buffing does remove a little bit of the bluing, so take it easy unless you are going for a more distressed, antique look. If you like the results, you are now done. If you don't like what you see, skip ahead to the "Re-Blue" step below.
Rest
Now we're getting into "old wives tale" territory, but I've found that spraying the axe in PB Blaster, wrapping it in an oily rag, and letting it sit for a day or two wrapped up like that really seems to bring out the bluing and deepen the color. I stumbled on this one day when I was running short on time and didn't want the axe to flash rust. I don't know why or how it works, but it seems to make a difference.
Re-Blue (only if needed)
If the finish is splotchy or uneven, or you want it darker, you can sometimes get away with brushing a little more bluing chemical on the problem area and buffing it in with the steel wool. If that doesn't work, you'll need to circle back to the de-grease with alcohol step and try again.
So there you have it, that is my cold bluing process. I have used this process with both Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and with Brownell's Oxpho Blue. With Perma Blue, I've ended up with either blue-gray or antique brown color. With the Oxpho Blue, I've gotten a dark gray or black color. I think a lot of the final result depends on both the bluing chemical and the material itself. You may want black, you might end up with brown. I'm not an expert.
Here are a couple of axe heads treated with Perma Blue. Note that the double bit is the blue-gray color and the single bit ended up more brown. I buffed these quite a bit to highlight the cheeks.
View media item 68881
This hatchet was treated with Perma Blue and then I "grained" it by pulling sandpaper across the surface.
View media item 91529
The top of my bandsaw table was treated with Oxpho Blue and you can see how it ended up black.
View media item 105052
Not a great pic, but I blued the blade retaining plates on my jointer. In the pic, there is wood dust on it, but you can see on the end where the plate ended up black - darker than the black oxide fasteners.
View media item 109456
Here is the hatchet from this weekend. This was treated with Oxpho Blue.
View media item 109768
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ld-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx
When I was reviewing the photos for the purpose of making this post, I learned that my cell phone camera does not like to take pictures of dark objects with a white background and all the photos I took of the hatchet head at each step of the process look pretty much the same. ****. Well, that's just how it goes sometimes. Here's the step-by-step anyway...
CYA Statement:
It should be noted, I am not a cold bluing expert. This is the process I use. I'm not saying its right or wrong, its just what I've found to work after bluing a dozen or so axes and other random parts. This is very much a YMMV situation - you might want something to be black, but it might end up gray. If you ruin something or kill yourself, don't come complaining to me.
De-Rust
Start by removing any rust from the axe head. I use electrolysis, but have used vinegar in the past - use whatever works best for you. Once I pull the head from the tank, I use a wire brush and coarse steel wool to clean off any loose material. If you use vinegar, make sure to neutralize the part with a baking soda bath.
Alcohol/Acetone
I use ~90% isopropyl alcohol and a cotton rag to wipe down the axe head to remove most of whatever is left on the axe. If you were really OCD, you could probably spend quite a bit of time on this step. I just clean the axe as much as is practical - "good enough" seems to be good enough from what I've found. Acetone would probably work as well, although I haven't used it.
Warm
I warm up the axe head by putting it on my kerosene convection space heater for a few minutes. You don't want it to be hot, just slightly warm in the hand. If you were doing this in summer and the axe temp were higher, say 80F, I'm not sure how much this step is really needed. I just know when the material is cold to the touch, the bluing process does not work very well. If you overheat it, the bluing will smoke when applied. I'm pretty sure that is not something you want to inhale, so again, slightly warm, not hot.
Prepare the Blue
While the axe is on the heater, prepare for bluing by pouring a small amount of the bluing chemical into a small container. You do not want to contaminate your bottle by dipping your application brush directly into it - always use a second container.
Blue
Using an acid brush, flood the bluing chemical onto the axe head. Work on one side at a time, just keeping a layer of liquid on the side of the axe for a few minutes, letting it do its thing. Take your time, don't hurry this part of the process. After a few minutes, I flip the axe over and flood the other side. Same deal, just keep a consistent layer of liquid on the side and take my time. I'll also let the bluing run down the edges and try to keep them coated as well. I usually flood each side three times before moving onto the next step. If all is going well, the axe is usually pretty well black after the second coat. By the third coat, you can't really see the bluing liquid doing anything.
Blot
Use a rag to blot away any bluing compound and dry the axe head.
Buff
Soak a pad of fine steel wool (I use 4/0) with oil (I use PB Blaster) and lightly buff the axe. You can see how well the bluing took at this point. The buffing does remove a little bit of the bluing, so take it easy unless you are going for a more distressed, antique look. If you like the results, you are now done. If you don't like what you see, skip ahead to the "Re-Blue" step below.
Rest
Now we're getting into "old wives tale" territory, but I've found that spraying the axe in PB Blaster, wrapping it in an oily rag, and letting it sit for a day or two wrapped up like that really seems to bring out the bluing and deepen the color. I stumbled on this one day when I was running short on time and didn't want the axe to flash rust. I don't know why or how it works, but it seems to make a difference.
Re-Blue (only if needed)
If the finish is splotchy or uneven, or you want it darker, you can sometimes get away with brushing a little more bluing chemical on the problem area and buffing it in with the steel wool. If that doesn't work, you'll need to circle back to the de-grease with alcohol step and try again.
So there you have it, that is my cold bluing process. I have used this process with both Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and with Brownell's Oxpho Blue. With Perma Blue, I've ended up with either blue-gray or antique brown color. With the Oxpho Blue, I've gotten a dark gray or black color. I think a lot of the final result depends on both the bluing chemical and the material itself. You may want black, you might end up with brown. I'm not an expert.
Here are a couple of axe heads treated with Perma Blue. Note that the double bit is the blue-gray color and the single bit ended up more brown. I buffed these quite a bit to highlight the cheeks.
View media item 68881
This hatchet was treated with Perma Blue and then I "grained" it by pulling sandpaper across the surface.
View media item 91529
The top of my bandsaw table was treated with Oxpho Blue and you can see how it ended up black.
View media item 105052
Not a great pic, but I blued the blade retaining plates on my jointer. In the pic, there is wood dust on it, but you can see on the end where the plate ended up black - darker than the black oxide fasteners.
View media item 109456
Here is the hatchet from this weekend. This was treated with Oxpho Blue.
View media item 109768
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d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Looks great!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Converted hatchets?
A couple of tent stake pullers I made from broken hatchets; the "new" unpainted one used a DOE for the claw; the painted one used extremely heavy 3/8 washers that I opened up for the stake shaft.
A couple of tent stake pullers I made from broken hatchets; the "new" unpainted one used a DOE for the claw; the painted one used extremely heavy 3/8 washers that I opened up for the stake shaft.
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An axe handle I made of black cherry cut from my father's woods.
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/142673282_3666687340088786_4303073601297405181_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=viVhJSisNDYAX_huhdy&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=4e1a4cb55e3a71be4965a4e659b43738&oe=60346257
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/142343457_3666687383422115_7260062912257763477_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=uJMLYXNUeakAX9tNmlm&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=db5482a9f9af9a2b42b813fe3a19323f&oe=60329EFD
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131324597_3552768264814028_2539305200578195976_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=KLcTTpZo1gQAX_1TnFh&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=49e70e18eaf3f358b136e2ae9214044d&oe=603239E8
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131066122_3552768121480709_1568844370974907088_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=a07tduOBJS0AX81Gyzv&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=fe0c2457428039bb85f7705e8ca22eae&oe=6032605B
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/142673282_3666687340088786_4303073601297405181_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=viVhJSisNDYAX_huhdy&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=4e1a4cb55e3a71be4965a4e659b43738&oe=60346257
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/142343457_3666687383422115_7260062912257763477_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=uJMLYXNUeakAX9tNmlm&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=db5482a9f9af9a2b42b813fe3a19323f&oe=60329EFD
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131324597_3552768264814028_2539305200578195976_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=KLcTTpZo1gQAX_1TnFh&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=49e70e18eaf3f358b136e2ae9214044d&oe=603239E8
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/131066122_3552768121480709_1568844370974907088_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=a07tduOBJS0AX81Gyzv&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=fe0c2457428039bb85f7705e8ca22eae&oe=6032605B
Outlawmws
Well-known member
"I cannot tel a lie! I did cut down that cherry tree!"
Beautiful work!
Beautiful work!
The black-cherry has a nice color compared to the white-ash I have made other handles out of. It is not as strong as ash or hickory, but I don't think handles have to be that strong unless the user is inexperienced enough to miss the target and have the handle hit instead of the head.
When I was young in the early 1970s my father cut trees all summer long and he did not have a powered wood-splitter so I was it, he put a maul in my hands and I had to split wood for years every summer so much that even leather gloves did not keep the skin from tearing on my hands and fingers. So I got very good at figuring out where to hit wood with a maul or axe and how hard to hit it to get the job done without wasting any energy.
The only handles I saw break in use in the last fifty years are those that were badly abused by inexperienced users or those that had rot set in, so it is my belief that you can make tool handles out of any wood you like and they will work fine. I have used this axe with the cherry handle hard with zero effect on it so far.
I think someone really good with an axe could have a handle made of Balsa wood or pine, if I get a chance I will give them a try.
I still have fun felling trees and cutting them up with axes, mauls and hand-saws, the chain-saw is the last tool I go to for a job as I want to get some exercise to keep my old body from falling apart any faster than it is.
Next I am going to try some black walnut and some sugar-maple I think, thanks for the kind words.
The handle on this splitting maul broke so I made a new one out of white-ash for it. Not attractive but it is like spring-steel. The old handle was probably original to the maul and very old so so rot had set in over the years. The old handle is the handle in a photo a few posts ago where I am splitting two logs at once stacked on each other.
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125420171_3483608821729973_8101800970175849107_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=gFISB3r4adkAX-oLRYJ&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=e76a3613bfa11759ff54495395bae972&oe=60362AE1
https://scontent-ort2-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/125420171_3483608821729973_8101800970175849107_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=2&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=gFISB3r4adkAX-oLRYJ&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.**&oh=e76a3613bfa11759ff54495395bae972&oe=60362AE1
^Some really nice handle work happening there guys! I still buy my handles, and thought I would try House Handle out. I have a heavily abused Zenith 2.5lb laying around with no real purpose, so I figured I would make it into a house axe. House Handle has a "house axe" handle that I thought would be perfect.
I had to shave a lot of wood off the eye to get it to fit, and the eye of the eye was heavily deformed from repeated blows with a hammer. So I used wood glue to fill some voids. The zenith head was too long, so I cur roughly 1" off and reshaped. Then stripped the stupid coated off the handle, sanded and stained dark walnut. Then applied some gun blue to the head, and finished off wirh blo.
20210128_105720 by Jon S, on Flickr
I had to shave a lot of wood off the eye to get it to fit, and the eye of the eye was heavily deformed from repeated blows with a hammer. So I used wood glue to fill some voids. The zenith head was too long, so I cur roughly 1" off and reshaped. Then stripped the stupid coated off the handle, sanded and stained dark walnut. Then applied some gun blue to the head, and finished off wirh blo.
20210128_105720 by Jon S, on FlickrBMWBOB
Well-known member
My favorites! 1947 Sager Chemical axe - possibly with the original handle, Plumb shingle axe, and a Bridgeport hatchet with a Ennis (MT) Saddlery cover.
I say the double bit probably has the original handle because the relative I inherited it from rarely actually did much physical work.
I say the double bit probably has the original handle because the relative I inherited it from rarely actually did much physical work.
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BMWBOB
Well-known member
Pardon my ignorance: BLO?
Boiled Linseed Oil
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The "B's" Have it! 
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Nice. There's a very good article on the history on those, and the somewhat misleading name, on Yesteryears Tools, linked here.
Miller72
Well-known member
Supplee-Biddle Hardware Co
Philadelphia
WmPenn Axe
Rockaway Pattern
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nice one!
Farmer J.
Well-known member
Yes, nice stamping on that one a great display piece. William Penn is buried not far from where I am.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Interesting, J. He's immortalized on the top of City Hall not far (across the state, down the turnpike, and across the river...) from me!
Something only Philly people probably realize - there once was an ordinance that no building could be erected taller than William Penn. Many people lament it being retracted for a few of those scrapers in the background.
As a Philly guy, I may have to start looking harder for these axes.
Just a beautiful specimen, Miller. I am surprised you didn't show it with the double bit you posted not too long ago on page 28, post #541. It also harkens back to the interesting discussion that ensued on that page on whether the logo on the double bit was upside down rightside up, intentionally, or inadvertent.
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Farmer J.
Well-known member
Also in Penn, Buckinghamshire, UK.
At the lovely 17th C. Quaker Meeting House. Nice statue, shame those skyscrapers are taller.
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Miller72
Well-known member
Thank you for looking
I do love and feel grateful for having these three
I do love and feel grateful for having these three
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Found this half hatchet this morning at the flea market. I'm not sure if it's the original handle or not. It has a single wooden wedge in the head that was not flushed off. I've read these oval logos were the second generation, after the wavy one, in the 1920's, but I don't really know for sure. I've seen the same exact double-line oval with the Long C logo inside, and the Long C logo inside with the Vanadium marking under that.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Hard to tell on the handle Luz, but boy what a find!
Miller, Nice examples!
Miller, Nice examples!
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Thanks, Outlaw. I was excited.
BMWBOB
Well-known member
Some axes from Finland. Two on the top are some splitting axes I saved from a thrift store, sandblasted and installed new hardware store handles. Not sure of the origin. Top one maybe nordic, and the next one propably just some chinese stuff.
Then there are four axes, manufactured in Finland in the "good old days". The model is Finnish too. Hardware store handles except for the flame birch handle. I know, too fancy but just happened to have that extra piece of wood. And you have to have one special axe for the special occasions. This axe head was found at the bottom of my old grandpa's firewood shed under about 1 meter of rotten firewood, dirt and other debris. It has also army stamp on it.
The pickaxe was heavily rusted. I sandblasted and painted it. I know the paint won't last in use but also i don't have much use for a pickaxe so the paint will keep it rust free until i do. Propably WWI imperial russian pickaxe.
The wee one is just some chinese axehead with an applewood handle for my nephew. he needed a camping axe.
I'll propably put some paint on them in the springtime, when its warm and dry outdoors. All of these were heavily pitted and rusted when I "saved" them so I'm not much into retaining their historical value. also they are still good tools and ready to use.
This is much more axe than I'll ever need and I've got half a dozen more at my summer cabin but I just can't help myself when I see a rusty and lonely old axehead rotting away in an abandoned shed or a thrift store. I also like the feel of these wooden handles way more better when making firewood at the summer cabin.
Then there are four axes, manufactured in Finland in the "good old days". The model is Finnish too. Hardware store handles except for the flame birch handle. I know, too fancy but just happened to have that extra piece of wood. And you have to have one special axe for the special occasions. This axe head was found at the bottom of my old grandpa's firewood shed under about 1 meter of rotten firewood, dirt and other debris. It has also army stamp on it.
The pickaxe was heavily rusted. I sandblasted and painted it. I know the paint won't last in use but also i don't have much use for a pickaxe so the paint will keep it rust free until i do. Propably WWI imperial russian pickaxe.
The wee one is just some chinese axehead with an applewood handle for my nephew. he needed a camping axe.
I'll propably put some paint on them in the springtime, when its warm and dry outdoors. All of these were heavily pitted and rusted when I "saved" them so I'm not much into retaining their historical value. also they are still good tools and ready to use.
This is much more axe than I'll ever need and I've got half a dozen more at my summer cabin but I just can't help myself when I see a rusty and lonely old axehead rotting away in an abandoned shed or a thrift store. I also like the feel of these wooden handles way more better when making firewood at the summer cabin.
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![20210226_100423[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/944/944693-6ab81226103201dd9ff0cd6cec2c5708.jpg)
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Beats me...
Have you done a pencil-rubbing of both sides?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I found the below HERE:
Appears to be Brand related to Plumb? Certainly Plumb made hewing hatchets.
"The DAT says Fayette R. Plumb bought a half interest in the business of
Jonathan Yerkes in 1870 (vs. 1867) and bought Yerkes out ca 1887
(sources vary re specific date). Although he then changed the company
name to Fayette R. Plumb, he continued to use the joint name or the
initials Y&P for several more years. He introduced an Anchor Brand line
of tolols ca. 1890 and marked those with "Plumb" in script across a
figure of an anchor. He also used several other brand names - one of
which was Philadelphia Tool Co.
Another Plumb brand was marked "O-V-B" for Our Very Best. It is not
known if there is any connection to the Hibbard, Spencer & Bartlett
hardware company use of that same brand marking. Plumb was still in
business beyond 1964."
Appears to be Brand related to Plumb? Certainly Plumb made hewing hatchets.
"The DAT says Fayette R. Plumb bought a half interest in the business of
Jonathan Yerkes in 1870 (vs. 1867) and bought Yerkes out ca 1887
(sources vary re specific date). Although he then changed the company
name to Fayette R. Plumb, he continued to use the joint name or the
initials Y&P for several more years. He introduced an Anchor Brand line
of tolols ca. 1890 and marked those with "Plumb" in script across a
figure of an anchor. He also used several other brand names - one of
which was Philadelphia Tool Co.
Another Plumb brand was marked "O-V-B" for Our Very Best. It is not
known if there is any connection to the Hibbard, Spencer & Bartlett
hardware company use of that same brand marking. Plumb was still in
business beyond 1964."