let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
asterik216
Member
A friend gave me this grinder thinking it just needed a switch and a little cleaning up. From what I have seen im pretty sure its capacitor start and I am not even sure what exactly I need to get it working. If someone can maybe point me in the right direction I would be much appreciated.
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I am “working” on a similar model (397.19340 - lamp cord was cut, but really just waiting for better painting weather).
I don’t think there is a capacitor in the split phase models. The relay is either okay or not.
A switch may indeed be all you need.
I would clean up the contacts on your relay - one looks to have rust on it?
I don’t think there is a capacitor in the split phase models. The relay is either okay or not.
A switch may indeed be all you need.
I would clean up the contacts on your relay - one looks to have rust on it?
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asterik216
Member
That's great that I don't need a capacitor for it. Everything I was finding online that showed the wiring all seemed to have capacitors. I had no idea there was so many different variations or that this grinder was a big thing to restore. I haven't bothered really cleaning it since I thought i needed a capacitor to even start it. Is there a switch I can buy that that you know of that fits the front like the original one?
I think the original rocker switch is not available new. Most posts I’ve read here that include switch replacement require some modification to the new switch or to the rectangular knockout. My switch is good AFAIK, so I have not looked very deeply into the subject.
The main concern I have with mine is the bearings. The one on the left clicks, but when I made a half-hearted attempt to pull the shaft from the aluminum castings, it didn’t budge. I know it ran pretty smooth when I got it, so I figured leave well enough alone, and if it gives me trouble later, try again to pull it.
The main concern I have with mine is the bearings. The one on the left clicks, but when I made a half-hearted attempt to pull the shaft from the aluminum castings, it didn’t budge. I know it ran pretty smooth when I got it, so I figured leave well enough alone, and if it gives me trouble later, try again to pull it.
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asterik216
Member
Well I went up to home depot and got a switch figuring I would probably have to modify the hole for it anyways. After hooking everything up It doesn't seem to want to start. One thing I noticed is my windings are not all ******* like they originally where. Looking at your picture its all nice and neat but mine are all over the place. Having the little wires running off the coil to the power is new to me and I am not sure if they are touching somewhere and shouldn't be. Also even if the relay took a dump I should still be able to start it by spinning it with power going to it right? I am pretty sure it should as the relay is only for startup I think.
Hoorn
Well-known member
Picked this from Offerup today, came with the pedestal and light. $100. Runs perfect. All I did was very minor clean up. Dated May 4, 1966. Paper diagram was inside the bottom cover for dual voltage wiring. I was always curious why this specific model had a somewhat plain label, no crown top logo or anything.
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DaveT
Well-known member
Nice score Hoorn. If that is original pain it looks fantastic, and the stand makes that a beautiful setup. The shields look really clear also, so many times I see yellow shields.
Hoorn
Well-known member
Thanks DaveT. Yes everything is original. I was shocked at the glass clarity. They were dusty when I picked them up, but a little Windex cleaned it up, it's virtually without a scratch or yellowing.
Hoorn
Well-known member
To emphasize DaveT's point on the glass, I have these pics. Also, it's clear this grinder was not used much and most likely covered and stored in a dry place, the grinding wheels are both the originals. Damage to paper was caused solely by pulling the flange off the wheel.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
And of course they used the wheel to grind aluminum... 
Hoorn
Well-known member
And of course they used the wheel to grind aluminum...
Yes Outlaw, quite a bit it seems. Dressing the wheels will be on my list.
lafester
Well-known member
Wow that is a nice one. You just do not find them like that anymore.
A single point diamond dresser usually works well with crusted aluminum.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
speaking of GRINDING ALUMINUM on a grinder's stone what is the preferred method you can tell everyone to use so everyone can quit grinding aluminum on their stones?
i've bought more than a few grinders with aluminum filled stones and had to dress or change them.
in case anybody didn't know aluminum in grinding stones can cause them to explode.
i've bought more than a few grinders with aluminum filled stones and had to dress or change them.
in case anybody didn't know aluminum in grinding stones can cause them to explode.
jarhead
Well-known member
Im trying to find a new switch for mine, the sheetmetal enclosure has a number on the sheetmetal enclosure 714600800. It also has sears roebuck stamped on it, is that pre Craftsman?
Anyhow the switch has 3 electrical lugs on it but two of them are tied together, I am not familiar with this style wiring. it is a black plastic housing with a red plastic toggle (not a rocker) sticking out for on off. A black and a white wire connect to one lug. A single black on the other lug.
Any help would be appreciated.
Anyhow the switch has 3 electrical lugs on it but two of them are tied together, I am not familiar with this style wiring. it is a black plastic housing with a red plastic toggle (not a rocker) sticking out for on off. A black and a white wire connect to one lug. A single black on the other lug.
Any help would be appreciated.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Harley94
Well-known member
How do you date YOM on block grinders. I picked a freebee 1/4hp up today @ recycle ctr that has a crown top badge and a push on/off switch.
It does run but filthy and missing to outside wheel guards.
It does run but filthy and missing to outside wheel guards.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Harley: sometimes they are date stamped on the bottom cover plate. any pics of your little 1/4?
Harley94
Well-known member
There is some numbers stenciled on the bottom tin cover, I'll have to take a closer look at them. When I had it test running it took forever for the wheels to finally stop. I was actually thinking the switch would turn it on but not off. Pulled the plug just in case.
I'll see what I can do about pix, I've never tried to upload any here and I don't have a hosting service.
I'll see what I can do about pix, I've never tried to upload any here and I don't have a hosting service.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Harley: I'll let the other members who can change bearings in their sleep chime in and tell you about replacing them so your grinding wheels will stop a bit quicker.
as far as pictures when I first joined I used an online service to host my pics, but shortly after they changed the methods and I didn't want to re invent their wheel so I just download my pics as small thumbnails that you can click on twice to make full size. click on this thumbnail for example.
if you are posting from your laptop or computer just click on the paper clip above where you write your words in your post and you'll get a pop up menu. then click the browse button and find the pics you want to post and you can post up to 7 pics per post. after you've picked out your pictures upload them, close that pop up and hit the save button on your post and the pics should be in your post.
if you have more questions you can send me a PM or I think there are help threads on GJ'S forum too.
good luck!!
as far as pictures when I first joined I used an online service to host my pics, but shortly after they changed the methods and I didn't want to re invent their wheel so I just download my pics as small thumbnails that you can click on twice to make full size. click on this thumbnail for example.
if you are posting from your laptop or computer just click on the paper clip above where you write your words in your post and you'll get a pop up menu. then click the browse button and find the pics you want to post and you can post up to 7 pics per post. after you've picked out your pictures upload them, close that pop up and hit the save button on your post and the pics should be in your post.
if you have more questions you can send me a PM or I think there are help threads on GJ'S forum too.
good luck!!
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threeputt
Well-known member
You bought this with stand for $100 just like the picture shows ? The stand alone is worth that if not more. I got one exactly like yours. Will update pictures when completed.
Harley94
Well-known member
Ok, thanks, Ill give it a try
Harley94
Well-known member
Harley94
Well-known member
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Harley: that's great you figured out how to post pictures!! that actually looks like a PRE BLOCK which we also talk about a lot on this thread cause they are good ones too.
since your grinding stone might be 60 or so years old you might want to change it out when you are spiffing this old girl up.
maybe one of the other regulars on this thread can give you a link to the RING TEST for stones (new and old) so you can avoid having it or another one blow up while it's spinning at over 3400 rpms
since your grinding stone might be 60 or so years old you might want to change it out when you are spiffing this old girl up.
maybe one of the other regulars on this thread can give you a link to the RING TEST for stones (new and old) so you can avoid having it or another one blow up while it's spinning at over 3400 rpms
Harley94
Well-known member
It's a heavy sucker for sure. I don't even know if I'll keep it. I already have a grinder (Taiwan) that I got as a Christmas present years ago and serves me fine. I just could not let it be trashed that's why I saved it.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Harley: you'll probably find out that the old 1/4 HP grinders are probably as powerful as the new 1/2's are cause they measure things differently now. clean it up and I bet you'll keep this one and sell or use the other one for those dirty jobs.
nice save!
nice save!
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
These all look like block grinders to my eye. Is there a 'pre pre block grinder' thread? Maybe 'grinder that doesn't look like a block' thread?DaveT
Well-known member
There is a “pre” block thread!
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339921
Old Radar
Well-known member
Doesn't look like anyone addressed your year of manufacture question. Drives is correct about it being a Pre-Block and most of them have their manufacture dates stamped on the front plate. It looks like yours is J-61--so October 1961.
That push button power switch is neither original nor proper for this machine for the very reason you mentioned--you can't know for sure if it is in the On or Off position. Best to change it out for a simple On-Off toggle switch.
There's a lot of good advice and experience both here and on the Pre-Block thread DaveT mentioned for repair and restoration. Good Luck!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Harley - welcome to the Block grinder thread and Block grinder ownership.
I couldn't make sense of the 'date' stamp on the bottom cover; but, on the label under the amps "J-61" to me means Jan/Jun/Jul 1961. Bottom 'date' stamp might be Jan +++ ?
"October" makes sense, Thanks Radar
As far as bearing replacement, the early Blocks & pre-Blocks have a start-up switch in the RH end bell that can be damaged. Here's a proper tear-down of a 1/4-HP like yours. BTW - I haven't seen this style 1/4-HP fitted with side covers - notice the bosses are not drilled & tapped like others are.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244181
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Harley94
Well-known member
Thanks guys, this is a first for me. This grinder is only the 2nd that I'm aware of in this area.
I have visited the pre-block thread and posted a picture of the 1/3hp grinder from the 1952 Craftsman catalog I have.
I have visited the pre-block thread and posted a picture of the 1/3hp grinder from the 1952 Craftsman catalog I have.
Hoorn
Well-known member
Yes sir, exactly $100. What's more is the sellers, an older couple, had the grinder/pedestal on a dolly and had it hooked up to an extension cord for me to run it and check it out. Great OfferUp sellers, the kind it's a pleasure doing business with.
IMCA38
Well-known member
Went to an auction yesterday and snagged this 397.19360 1HP block. Had to give $70 but didn’t seem unreasonable since the only part missing was a light bulb in the work light. Started giving it a thorough cleaning today.
Can’t find any indication of a date stamp on the bottom tin cover.
Can anyone provide a date range of when this was made?
Can’t find any indication of a date stamp on the bottom tin cover.
Can anyone provide a date range of when this was made?
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jimmyin3D
Banned
I couldn’t find the answer I was looking for but are the arbor/shafts identical in block grinders? Like will a 3.5amp arbor be identical to a 6.2amp? If I’m describing it wrong it’s the shaft thing that sits inside the coiled wire part.
The arbors vary from model to model, and Torqueman has a chart for that.
I would not expect the ROTOR to be the same across different amperes, because the STATORs are longer/wider on higher-hp models than lower ones. I would expect the shaft to be longer as a result, so the ARBORs would also be wider-spaced.
Also, the shaft diameter, and therefore the arbors vary by model, with lower-hp models tending to 1/2” and higher-hp models tending to 5/8”.
Also, the shaft diameter, and therefore the arbors vary by model, with lower-hp models tending to 1/2” and higher-hp models tending to 5/8”.
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