35Ford
Well-known member
That is a beautiful grinder. Congrats.
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Picked this up yesterday; needed because I'm trying to get a shop up and running and I gave away my spare block grinder and stand to a buddy who didn't have one.
Anyway, it needs to be cleaned up but it runs well. Only issue is the switch is inop so the prior owner put a switch in the cord. I have an original stand that I will be bolted to.
It's dual voltage but currently running on 110. The instructions to run on 220 should be on the inside of the bottom cover; at least that's where they were on the last dual voltage unit I had.
Almost forgot - set me back $35. I thought that was fair.
Anyway, it needs to be cleaned up but it runs well. Only issue is the switch is inop so the prior owner put a switch in the cord. I have an original stand that I will be bolted to.
It's dual voltage but currently running on 110. The instructions to run on 220 should be on the inside of the bottom cover; at least that's where they were on the last dual voltage unit I had.
Almost forgot - set me back $35. I thought that was fair.
Dave Lagerstrom
New member
This has been a fun thread to read. I just brought home a grinder on a stand from an auction. Paid $75. I was just excited to get a nice heavy stand and a 1 HP grinder. Then I started reading here...
Attached are photos from the auction. I had no idea it was a Craftsman and highly sought after.
The light was replaced with a trouble light at the end of the gooseneck. Left cover is missing. After getting it home, I ran it and it was good but the left shaft is bent. I turned it off and it spun on for a couple minutes.
Since the label is totally worn off, I have no idea what the part number is. It is commercial as the wiring diagram inside the bottom cover shows how to change the wiring for 220v operation.
I have it apart now and will get it cleaned up. Hopefully I can straighten out the shaft, but worst case is I have a one wheel grinder.
I figure I can make a cover for the left side, hammer out the dents on the top, paint and and enjoy.
Just wanted to share that these things are still out there.
Attached are photos from the auction. I had no idea it was a Craftsman and highly sought after.
The light was replaced with a trouble light at the end of the gooseneck. Left cover is missing. After getting it home, I ran it and it was good but the left shaft is bent. I turned it off and it spun on for a couple minutes.
Since the label is totally worn off, I have no idea what the part number is. It is commercial as the wiring diagram inside the bottom cover shows how to change the wiring for 220v operation.
I have it apart now and will get it cleaned up. Hopefully I can straighten out the shaft, but worst case is I have a one wheel grinder.
I figure I can make a cover for the left side, hammer out the dents on the top, paint and and enjoy.
Just wanted to share that these things are still out there.
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Old Radar
Well-known member
Welcome Dave! You have a well used but reliable grinder--or at least most of one! 
Your most salient point is "...that these things are still out there." You may want to keep your eyes open for another one that has issues and combine them instead of manufacturing your own parts--depending if you plan to just use it after a cleanup or restore it to something closer to its former glory. In addition to the issues you mentioned I see the left side is missing its rest and the shaft that supports it, a long run out after power off could mean your bearings are dry. The right side spark arrestor is missing, but easy to make, but straightening a bent shaft is beyond my capability, since I'm a little OCD when it comes to grinder vibration...
As for the label, if you haven't found @mattblast already, he's our resident label guru, here.
Your most salient point is "...that these things are still out there." You may want to keep your eyes open for another one that has issues and combine them instead of manufacturing your own parts--depending if you plan to just use it after a cleanup or restore it to something closer to its former glory. In addition to the issues you mentioned I see the left side is missing its rest and the shaft that supports it, a long run out after power off could mean your bearings are dry. The right side spark arrestor is missing, but easy to make, but straightening a bent shaft is beyond my capability, since I'm a little OCD when it comes to grinder vibration...
As for the label, if you haven't found @mattblast already, he's our resident label guru, here.
Dave Lagerstrom
New member
Thanks for the reply. My goal is to have a usable grinder. I will try to make it look as nice as possible but I don't think this particular unit is the right candidate for a 100 point restoration. Trying to straighten out the shaft will be a new experience for me. Time to make some aluminum v blocks and give it a shot. The other parts should be fairly easy to reproduce. That is a big part of how I have fun in the garage.
Awesome info on the labels from Matt. Greatly appreciated. It would be nice to get a new label. Maybe I have to make up a serial number?
Cheers.
-Dave
Awesome info on the labels from Matt. Greatly appreciated. It would be nice to get a new label. Maybe I have to make up a serial number?
Cheers.
-Dave
Old Radar
Well-known member
That model usually had the SN stamped/impressed onto the label about an inch or so below where it says "Grinder". I know your label looks like it has been dragged behind a truck, but you might be able to still see the stamped numbers. Good Luck!
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Damn, that is mint and with a purchase price of $35 - You ****!!!
ctuai
Well-known member
Auction $35. 1/2 HP Sears Craftsman Commercial bench grinder (Model 397.19591), Manufactured - May 11, 1973. Came with original wheels, which look in reasonable shape. First one I've come across with the dip tray. 50 years later and still winds up smoothly.
ctuai
Well-known member
Just pulled this 1/3 hp, 397.19580. Super clean, just wiped it down. It came with its original power tool stand, 38221.103, 38222.103, which I didn't realize are sized. Probably, always been on a stand as it still has all its' rubber feet. I might have to keep it as a set.
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vincent123
New member
McBrownie
Well-known member
A family heirloom! Congrats. I have an 8” CBN wheel on a 3/4hp cap start block. The wheel is fairly heavy and takes some power to get it going. Maybe 6” wheels wouldn’t need as much hp to get them going. I really like CBN better than traditional wheels. No dressing required and no risk of the wheels breaking.
ALLFAST
Well-known member
When in doubt, call the experts that sell CBNs. Nice score from your Grand Uncle.
RubiconJK
Well-known member
I just picked up this 1/3 HP with an OEM stand today from a local seller. It runs great and I'm about to tear it down and do a good clean up and restore. I watched a really good video referenced either here or on the other block grinder thread but the paint colors were not given for the Rustoleum rattle can paint. Anyone have info on that or any other suggestions? Thanks.
FrankLee
Well-known member
Nice! I like my 1/3 hp 115.7566 better than the 1/2 hp versions.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...rs-wheres-the-love.339921/page-9#post-9927133
Based on my experience, I believe that wrinkle brown paint would clean up nicely with Grez-Off followed by a paste wax.
A common substitute for the Power Bronze gold is Rustoleum Champagne Mist. But you should use the color you like.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...rs-wheres-the-love.339921/page-9#post-9927133
Based on my experience, I believe that wrinkle brown paint would clean up nicely with Grez-Off followed by a paste wax.
A common substitute for the Power Bronze gold is Rustoleum Champagne Mist. But you should use the color you like.
RubiconJK
Well-known member
Thanks Frank. I'll first just try cleaning the wrinkle brown cast iron parts as you suggested. The Power Bronze is the center strap and guarding trim plus the stand? I'd like to go back with something close to original.
FrankLee
Well-known member
Correct. The lamp also was Power Bronze.
Those 1/3 hp models did not come equipped with a lamp. Your lamp was a Sears catalog/off-the-shelf option. How did the PO attach it?
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-wheres-the-love.339921/page-10#post-10781035
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RubiconJK
Well-known member
It went through the base like a factory light. I have the grinder disassembled right now, but I'll snap a photo later and post. Can you suggest a good source for replacement bearings? Thanks
FrankLee
Well-known member
I use JSBGreatBearings. Much of their stuff is from PRC, but I've used dozens of their bearings with no problem. They have good prices and free shipping.
Accurate Bearing is a popular source if you want other than PRC.
See my recent link above for all components I used on a 115.7575 refurb. I don't recall whether the 7566 and 7575 bearings are the same.
RubiconJK
Well-known member
I've sent JSB an email asking for pricing. I hope I don't have to pay more for bearings than I did for the grinder and stand together ($40)! Once I removed the bearings I see a number 3202 on them which upon researching I believe designates them as 15mm ID, 35mm OD, and 15.9mm width.
Also as promised, below is a pic showing how the lamp was attached. This is the left housing (looking from front) with a drilled hole in the back for the lamp to attach. Likely, as you suspected, done by the PO.
The other photo shows the glass from the guards which may be the most difficult part of my clean up!!
Also as promised, below is a pic showing how the lamp was attached. This is the left housing (looking from front) with a drilled hole in the back for the lamp to attach. Likely, as you suspected, done by the PO.
The other photo shows the glass from the guards which may be the most difficult part of my clean up!!
FrankLee
Well-known member
The new bearing is likely a 6202, but measure, measure, measure. 6202 bearings come in four bores; 15mm, 16mm, 1/2" and 5/8". They are also available with seals or shields and multiple grades.
I agree.
The glass should clean up ok with a razor blade and a cleaner like Simple Green.
The tabs on their frames will all likely break off. I used 3M molding tape and a terpolymer caulk to secure the glass.
RubiconJK
Well-known member
Good point. Any issue with using the none sealed type? Repackable I suppose?
Will give it a go.
Some of them were already feeling like they were about to break as I was removing the glass. Thanks very much for the tips Frank.
FrankLee
Well-known member
OEM bearings were shielded. I generally switch to sealed for most applications, especially for dust/grit spewing machines like sanders and grinders.
After my first grinder refurb with that style eye shield frame, I never bothered to try and save those tabs. I just broke them off when I removed the glass and filed the frame edges smooth.
RubiconJK
Well-known member
Looks like the difference between the 3202 and 6202 is the width. 3202 was 15.9 mm and 6202 is 11 mm. No problem with the more narrow width of the 6202? I'm seeing 15 mm bore double metal sealed 6202 Timken's on Amazon for $12.50/pair.
I finished disassembly and cleanup today. Hopefully prime tomorrow.
FrankLee
Well-known member
I can't answer that. IMO, you should go with the same size you measured from your grinder.
RubiconJK
Well-known member
Before and after on the above mentioned bench grinder. I'm super happy with how it turned out. It looks and runs great. Thanks very much to @FrankLee for the suggestions and comments above. I've done a few of these now and here are some of my learnings from this one:
1. Simple Green worked great on the guard glass! But don't use it to clean the name plate. It removed some of the print on the plate so I'll probably be ordering a new decal to go over it.
2. As FrankLee suggested above, measure the replacement bearings and as I learned, don't order replacements by simply the bearing designation number. All worked out in the long run, but could have saved myself some trouble.
3. Protect the shaft threads during the rebuild process. Chasing threads is no fun!
1. Simple Green worked great on the guard glass! But don't use it to clean the name plate. It removed some of the print on the plate so I'll probably be ordering a new decal to go over it.
2. As FrankLee suggested above, measure the replacement bearings and as I learned, don't order replacements by simply the bearing designation number. All worked out in the long run, but could have saved myself some trouble.
3. Protect the shaft threads during the rebuild process. Chasing threads is no fun!
FrankLee
Well-known member
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RubiconJK
Well-known member
Thanks Frank. I used Behr Burnished Amber and Behr Champagne Gold. Both were matte finish and I didn't realize it till I had the paint home that it was also metallic. At first I wasn't sure I would like the metallic, but it turned out ok.
FrankLee
Well-known member
IMO, it turned out MUCH better than ok.
Old Radar
Well-known member
Super job on the restoration! I'm right with you on the name plate. I barely touched mine with degreaser and the red vanished! @mattblast fixed me up with a great replacement.
If you could keep only one, which would it be? The flat top says it has more amps, but I wonder if thats just the way it was measured and has no real difference. Both have lights and quench trays, I have one original stand. I'm leaning toward the round top. It will have grinding stones installed.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'd mount up a grinding stone, fire it up and see which sounds the best for start and shut down, - all things being equal there, I'd take a 2x2 and while running, "load" the spinning wheel to the point of stall, and see which seems to have more power.
I just joined the club. Runs like a top and was made in 1964. Wish I found this thread sooner.
Is there a big difference in utility between a 1/3 and 1/2 hp model? Right now this one is more than plenty but definitely would like to have a second one someday setup for different jobs.
Is there a big difference in utility between a 1/3 and 1/2 hp model? Right now this one is more than plenty but definitely would like to have a second one someday setup for different jobs.
That grinder is in nice shape. I only have the same 1/3 hp model so I can't vouch for the 1/2 hp model. Here are pictures of my grinder before and after restoration.I just joined the club. Runs like a top and was made in 1964. Wish I found this thread sooner.
Is there a big difference in utility between a 1/3 and 1/2 hp model? Right now this one is more than plenty but definitely would like to have a second one someday setup for different jobs.
Since it came without the tool rests, I had to fabricate something that came close. I haven't been able to find an original lamp. Can anyone give me some dimensions of the original lamp hood? I found the lamp below on ebay. I think it is considerably smaller than the original lamp but it was cheap and I may end up using it if I can't find an original.
That's some nice work. I might restore it down the road when I'm in a better spot to take on such a project but for now I at least need to do some cleaning and basic reconditioning. I'll need to get a tool to dress the wheels and the plug on my cord is very brittle with chunks starting to break off. I know I got super lucky to get mine with the lamp since I didn't see it pictured in the listing. I did see a replacement lamp that sold on eBay for about $30 so maybe one might turn up. The cord on that lamp you have pictured seems pretty short compared with the one on mine. Unless someone here beats me to it, I'll take some measurements after the Thanksgiving madness.
I just bought one like this 1/2 hp, with the 8” disc, no sharpener jig, runs good, looks good, will need
a new nameplate, paid $60, also came with a 7” Variable speed Delta, that would start if you gave the wheel a little spin. Got it home, took apart Delta to get specs for capacitor, ordered one from Amazon for $19, installed it today, run great, probably will sell it for $80. Any idea what year Sears was selling them with this option?
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Can someone give me the cliff notes on the most desired block grinders? I'm seeing 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, & 1 hp models in my area. The 1 hp may be when marketing switched because it looks like it draws the same amperage as the 1/2hp & is black.
FrankLee
Well-known member
The more hp, the more desirable(?). I believe that the 1/3 and 1/2 hp square-top models are the most common. The 3/4 and 1 hp models are less common and generally more money.
However, IMO, the earlier round-top cast-iron models should be a quest grinder.
I have and use both a 1/3 hp, 397.19391 square-top and a 1/3 hp, 115.7566 round-top cast iron. The 7566 is my favorite, by far.
Below is a rotor assembly from a 1/3 hp square-top grinder.
Below is a rotor assembly from a 1/2 hp, 115.7575 cast iron grinder.
Here they are side-by-side. This is why I prefer the cast iron models.
However, IMO, the earlier round-top cast-iron models should be a quest grinder.
I have and use both a 1/3 hp, 397.19391 square-top and a 1/3 hp, 115.7566 round-top cast iron. The 7566 is my favorite, by far.
Below is a rotor assembly from a 1/3 hp square-top grinder.
Below is a rotor assembly from a 1/2 hp, 115.7575 cast iron grinder.
Here they are side-by-side. This is why I prefer the cast iron models.
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