let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
Reversepolarity
Well-known member
There is all the information you will need on this forum
Jcrapola
Well-known member
Hey MBS! Nice grinder! Resto sounds like a fun project. Lemme know if there is anything I can do to help at all..
Man you guys are going to think I'm nut's. But here goes.
I wished I had never bought this combo unit,,,lol. I really can afford to keep one of these 3 newly acquired grinders.
First I got the 3/4 with the missing lamp shades and a cracked shield. It will be here on the 18th. Then the fairly nice 3/4. It could use a label. Then this 1/2 combo last night. But it was so cool I had to get it,,,lol.
I know you guys are going to say keep them all. But that is not an option.
What I would like to do is put the sander attachment on a 3/4. I think that sander would be great for smoothing out a radius. But then I have just destroyed a sweet 1/2.
But I still absolutely need a wire wheel.
My chemo brain is killing me right now trying to decide how to configure these grinders. I literately have a headache from trying to decide what to do. The best I can come up with keep the combo as is and set up a 3/4 with a wire wheel/stone. Then hope to God I can sell off the other 3/4 to pay for what I keep. But I don't think I can get that much out of one.
What would you guys do.
What do you guys think a decent 3/4 would bring. And just curious what do you think I could get out of the combo.
I gotta go take a nerve pill,,,lol.
I wished I had never bought this combo unit,,,lol. I really can afford to keep one of these 3 newly acquired grinders.
First I got the 3/4 with the missing lamp shades and a cracked shield. It will be here on the 18th. Then the fairly nice 3/4. It could use a label. Then this 1/2 combo last night. But it was so cool I had to get it,,,lol.
I know you guys are going to say keep them all. But that is not an option.
What I would like to do is put the sander attachment on a 3/4. I think that sander would be great for smoothing out a radius. But then I have just destroyed a sweet 1/2.
But I still absolutely need a wire wheel.
My chemo brain is killing me right now trying to decide how to configure these grinders. I literately have a headache from trying to decide what to do. The best I can come up with keep the combo as is and set up a 3/4 with a wire wheel/stone. Then hope to God I can sell off the other 3/4 to pay for what I keep. But I don't think I can get that much out of one.
What would you guys do.
What do you guys think a decent 3/4 would bring. And just curious what do you think I could get out of the combo.
I gotta go take a nerve pill,,,lol.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Good to see all the posting today. I'll make my comments in blue, below.
Please raise your hand if you have one of these.
That's nice, and in great shape.
Did you guys even know there was such a thing. I didn't.
Man. I aint ready through 400 pages to see if there's another one,,,lol. Can't ya just tell me.
I can't recall seeing many, maybe only 1.
And it's like brand new. Not bad for a 1977.
You guys think the sander is gimmicky.
Not sure, I'd think the disk diameter is smallish. Maybe, the woodworkers can chime in.
I wonder if it would put a lot of pressure on the bearings.
It should be OK. There are spring washers in place that should keep the arbor aligned.
Maybe it's a bad design and they didn't make many. Or did they,,,lol. Why aint I seen one before.
not even the model number shows up on google. But it is on searsdirect.
Cal, your Sanding attachment from the 76-77 catalog:
Good find.
Do you have that catalog. I wonder if it would fit a 3/4.
You'll need the 3/4-HP 5/8" arbor adapter.
If you notice mine was not a add on. It came made that way. Notice the label.
Kool!
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McBrownie
Well-known member
Put a wire wheel on your 1/2hp grinder sander. That is a rare machine and the best of the 3.
Thanks Torque. I saw the spark arrestors, I did not know what they were, but I could not figure out why they were mounted under the tool rest. I just downloaded the manual, and discovered one, what they do, and two, where they go! I wonder if they were mounted incorrectly from the beginning. 
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Dr. B I think Cal meant a 3/4 HP...
Bobioz1
Well-known member
Here is another one.
Bobioz1
Well-known member
Ok, maybe it's here.
Bobioz1
Well-known member
I give up. Page #10 post #194. Maybe someone can bring the picture here.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
This one?
Bobioz1
Well-known member
Yes. Thank you
torqueman2002
Well-known member
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I have noticed a slight difference in otherwise seeming identical 1/3 hp grinders. Some label say "Industrial Rated" others do not. Other than that, the label are identical. Same serial #. Same Design #. Can anyone explain the difference? Is there a difference?
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Hey Torqueman, can you use a LED light bulb with this light (the one from Amazon) It says "It can use a standard light bulb if plugged into the wall, (* plug or adapter is not included) or a special 6.3 volt light bulb if plugged into the sewing machine motor" Does this light need a special bulb if connected through the motor?
Thanks for you help.
Thanks for you help.
Congratulations, nice grinder.
'Blockhead' !!??!! Well now, I resemble that remark. I even added a picture to my profile and signature just now.
To fit a lamp like the following one, connect the neutral (white/ribbed) wire of the lamp to the neutral (white/ribbed) wire inside the grinder, and the hot (black) wire to the hot (black) wire inside the grinder; alternately, connect the hot to the controlled side of the power switch. That will turn off the lamp with the power switch or you can turn it off at the lamp (the switches will be in series, both need to be on for the lamp to turn on)--> http://tinyurl.com/ka87ssb
torqueman2002
Well-known member
'Morning MBS!
I'll post my replies/comments in blue.
Here's a CM goose neck black lamp. @ $22.50 + S/H, it's more, but no painting, if you like the black color.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/light-assembly-p-972577.html
I'll post my replies/comments in blue.
I have noticed a slight difference in otherwise seeming identical 1/3 hp grinders. Some label say "Industrial Rated" others do not. Other than that, the label are identical. Same serial #. Same Design #. Can anyone explain the difference? Is there a difference?
Most often 'Commercial' and 'Industrial Rated' are used on dual voltage (115 V/230 V) Blocks. I'm not sure about these two 1/3-HP m-397.19580 Blocks.
Here's a CM goose neck black lamp. @ $22.50 + S/H, it's more, but no painting, if you like the black color.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/light-assembly-p-972577.html
Thanks Torqueman, I would like to find a more vintage light, but one of those should get me through until I do.
My $100,000.00 grinder:
(well, it did come with a garage and house)
It was pretty old and ratty, with half the left base broken off, but still worked great. Looking around here, I found a member with parts to sell. Thanks, SoftailGarage! The pix pretty well tell the tale of what happened next. I just couldn't live with that practically new end frame on my junky grinder. Though the Power Bronze color isn't correct for any Blocks I've seen, I like its looks on other Crafty tools, so on it went. The two tones are Rustoleum Hammered, in Gold and Gray. I think it looks nice - and also I already had the paint, left over from a couple of other projects.
(well, it did come with a garage and house)
It was pretty old and ratty, with half the left base broken off, but still worked great. Looking around here, I found a member with parts to sell. Thanks, SoftailGarage! The pix pretty well tell the tale of what happened next. I just couldn't live with that practically new end frame on my junky grinder. Though the Power Bronze color isn't correct for any Blocks I've seen, I like its looks on other Crafty tools, so on it went. The two tones are Rustoleum Hammered, in Gold and Gray. I think it looks nice - and also I already had the paint, left over from a couple of other projects.
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BFBOB, that is beautiful!! Very nice job! I like the color scheme.
I just got the same grinder, it is in need of a good resto! I am looking forward to doing it!
BFBOB, I am looking into getting labels printed for our model. Serial #3971580, like these.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310883
I will let you know if I can get it done.
Again very nice job!
I just got the same grinder, it is in need of a good resto! I am looking forward to doing it!
BFBOB, I am looking into getting labels printed for our model. Serial #3971580, like these.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310883
I will let you know if I can get it done.
Again very nice job!
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
BFBOB - nice job on rescuing a Block!
mbsinmich - If you are making a list for that label, I'm sure I can use 2, maybe 3. It might help share any set-up cost.
mbsinmich - If you are making a list for that label, I'm sure I can use 2, maybe 3. It might help share any set-up cost.
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Torqueman, I will add you to the list. Looks like there is a minimum of 10 labels, I thought there would be no problem finding a home for that many.
BFBOB - nice job on rescuing a Block!
mbsinmich - If you are making a list for that labe, I'm sure I can use 2, maybe 3. It might help share any set-up cost.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Here's a picture of how I remove bearings that stay on the arbor.
Note: The arbor nut and a sacrificial washer in place to protect the end of the arbor. The splitter is placed against the inner small race, but left loose to allow the splitter to move along the arbor removing the bearing.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3905048&postcount=13
Puller, SO set from the 70's
Bearing Splitter - 1/8" to 2"; OTC (1122) on Amazon for $32.99 w/Prime
Here's a picture (thanks to BK of OWWM) of a bearing splitter and a Craftsman 2 Jaw Large Gear Puller, removing an inner flange. The puller is sold on Amazon for $47.99 w/Prime.
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Thanks for the kind words. Yes, I'm interested in a new label. Are you talking about printed on metal, or self adhesive plastic, or??
One technique I've used that has worked out well is to reverse the image and print it on the back of laser-compatible clear sheet. Then, bond it to the nameplate (or whatever) with clear spray adhesive applied to the label. Of course, it doesn't look exactly like the original lithograph on aluminum, but if all you can get is a picture, or create a reasonable facsimile in CorelDraw, it's sure better than nothing. Gotta love computers.
I'll be heading to Lowes for some new feet (thanks to GJ!) and who knows, maybe they'll have some solid rivets for reattaching the nameplate.
Here was my restoration from a while back http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199416
torqueman2002
Well-known member
torqueman2002
Well-known member
You betcha!
I don't always need to use the splitter/puller set-up, but it is the tool when the bearing stays on the arbor/shaft.
Some 3/4 & 1-HP Blocks have an C-clip that locates the bearings inner small-race. It should be removed prior to pulling the bearing off the arbor/shaft.
When it comes time to install new bearings, I use the freezer-hot plate method. In my signature line, there is a link to my YouTube channel with a 3-part video.
Ridjobradi
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Messages
- 70
I am lucky to have a few sizes and styles of splitters and pullers in the garage, so it adds no cost to my grinder restoration. It may not make as much sense for someone that only needs it once for their grinder repair. You can rent one for free at most local autoparts stores.
Ridjobradi
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2015
- Messages
- 70
Delete of double post
Hello Bob, I'm not exactly sure what the label are, here is the link to the printing place. It says they are "metallic". There is a 10 piece minimum, but I did not think I would have much trouble dispersing them. I will have to create the label in CorelDraw or other graphic program--so we'll see how it goes. If I can get it done, I will contact you with the results.
http://www.case-badges.com/metallic-rectangular-custom-labels-3-x-4-max-p-360.html
Take a look at how beat up my original label is!
P. S. let me know if you find the rivets, as you can see I am missing one.
http://www.case-badges.com/metallic-rectangular-custom-labels-3-x-4-max-p-360.html
Take a look at how beat up my original label is!
P. S. let me know if you find the rivets, as you can see I am missing one.
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Yep, I'm a CorelDraw jockey too, since V1.1! I've been playing around a bit recreating the label since I haven't seen an exact replica. Actually, I'm thinking about making a custom label - keeping all the correct numbers, but replacing the plain-type Craftsman at the top with a full-width Crown Top logo, and leaving the only mention of Sears at the bottom. Hey, why not? It's already the "wrong" colors!
I haven't found a really good CrownTop logo to work with yet... maybe you could post one?? In .cdr format, of course!
***FLASH***
Found one in Torqueman's "What's the fuss?" thread. Not quite pristine, but plenty good enough for a starting point. Oddly enough, his example, which he calls a "Pre-Block" has almost exactly the label I've been thinking of creating!
Rivets: McMaster-Carr (dotcom, of course). They've got a huge variety of solid aluminum rivets. My Block isn't close at hand, so I can't measure them, but I'm quite certain they have one that'll fit. Cheap too. 250 of 'em for about 7 bux.
I haven't found a really good CrownTop logo to work with yet... maybe you could post one?? In .cdr format, of course!
***FLASH***
Found one in Torqueman's "What's the fuss?" thread. Not quite pristine, but plenty good enough for a starting point. Oddly enough, his example, which he calls a "Pre-Block" has almost exactly the label I've been thinking of creating!
Rivets: McMaster-Carr (dotcom, of course). They've got a huge variety of solid aluminum rivets. My Block isn't close at hand, so I can't measure them, but I'm quite certain they have one that'll fit. Cheap too. 250 of 'em for about 7 bux.
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Reversepolarity
Well-known member
You might try a local print shop to recreate the label.
I had a local shop here do my label.
They should also be able to do the aluminum ones also.
They should be able to match it perfectly.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
I have a number of CM label jpg pics, on my hd. Let me know what HP & m-#, and I will see if I can help you out.
Here's one example.
Also, here's a PB slide show of CM labels & logos.
http://s786.photobucket.com/user/torqueman2002/slideshow/CM 006 Labels
You are welcome to use them as-is, or to improve.
If anyone does make an improved version, please forward it to me for placement in the PB slide show.
DieselDent
Well-known member
My little 1/4hp, got it from my great uncles estate just need to clean it up and make a proper stand.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Diesel,My little 1/4hp, got it from my great uncles estate just need to clean it up and make a proper stand.
Welcome to the Block thread.
Nice one, is this your 1st Block?
Look here for a downloadable PDF version of the Owner's Manual:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3
The spark arresters should be above the wheels, the OM will show you where and how to properly adjust them and the tool rests.
There maybe a manufacture date, ink stamped on the bottom cover, but it's a safe bet it's ~40 years old.
Keep in mind the following are consumables:
- wheels/stones
- bearings
- power cord
- power switch
- relay
- capacitor, if present
I also inspect/clean/replace
- electrical terminals
- internal wiring
- eye shields
There's a link to aftermarket eye shields in the thread posted in my signature line, post# 3.
The above updates will give you a grinder that should last for decades of home shop use, for most things around the garage.
I hope this is helpful.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Hi guys:This is my first time posting on this thread. I usually hang out on the vise thread. My brother, mbsinmich, had so much fun with the block grinder that I found for him that I went and bought one for myself. Actually, I got two grinders and two stands but none of those others were any great shakes. I also got a Desmond Stephans Simplex No. 43S bench vise but that’s another story for another thread.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
CRS, welcome to the thread and Block ownership. Nice Block.
I see now where the labels came from in your brothers post, above: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5576388&postcount=8121
I met up w/ your brother, great guy! Cool set-up and work you're doing.
I think, in the interest of full disclosure, you both should be warned about these Block grinders.
Please follow this link, and heed the advise.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4832270&postcount=5478