M_George
Well-known member
Check the relay. That and any capacitors could cause it to draw a lot of current on startup.
let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
ALLFAST
Well-known member
6Pony,
The red one looks exactly like my 1/3 Horsepower 1949....probably a Doerr from what folks have said here. It's a little tank...My data plate is faded thin except for motor and serial number...no name info.
The red one looks exactly like my 1/3 Horsepower 1949....probably a Doerr from what folks have said here. It's a little tank...My data plate is faded thin except for motor and serial number...no name info.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
See post #3 in the following link for wiring diagrams; post #5 for relays and caps. --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539
If the field coils and rotor are not aligned properly on assembly, the rotor can spin freely by hand but 'bind' when power is turned on.
To maintain the proper air-gap, use of four 0.010" shims, between the rotor and stator.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5181709&postcount=7017
bczygan
Well-known member
There's one for $50 on Detroit CL.
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out. I disassembled the relay completely, cleaned it and tested continuity. What should the relay coil resistance be? 0 ohms? This model is 1/2HP and does not have a starting capacitor.
After reassembling it, I added the light to the relay and switch, and the light worked. I then added the windings only, turned it on and it tripped the breaker almost instantly. The resistance of the windings adds up correctly.
Last week, I had it set up and got a small shock from the actual body (it's unpainted currently) and assumed it was ground fault due to lack of paint.
I'll get numbers again shortly. Any ideas?
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Please see my comments in RED.
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out. I disassembled the relay completely, cleaned it and tested continuity. What should the relay coil resistance be? 0 ohms?
That's what I would expect. See the following SlideShows for the 2 different style relays I have dissected.
4CR Style --> http://s786.photobucket.com/user/torqueman2002/slideshow/CM%20011%20Start%20Up%20Relay
2CR Style --> http://s786.photobucket.com/user/to...1/2HP and does not have a starting capacitor.
After reassembling it, I added the light to the relay and switch, and the light worked. I then added the windings only, turned it on and it tripped the breaker almost instantly. The resistance of the windings adds up correctly.
Last week, I had it set up and got a small shock from the actual body (it's unpainted currently) and assumed it was ground fault due to lack of paint.
That sounds like a short of one or more windings to the case. Leave the grinder assembled, but disconnect all the electrical connections.
Connect one leg of your Ohm meter to case (ground), then test each electrical connection -- they should not have continuity to the case (ground). Fix the short, and reassemble and verify the fix.
I'll get numbers again shortly. Any ideas?
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Sorry for slow reply.
I thought I'd put links to my source information, but it appears they are 'broken'.
I've corrected the 'broken' links in the thread: "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)", post #3
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539
I don't know what the real truth or the alternate truth/facts are. Like so much information on the web, it has to be balanced with reasonableness and multiple sources.
Thanks. So I got it to spin for a few seconds, and I think the issue is my windings are slightly damaged. Uh... well I was going to take a picture and well the starting lead connector fell off.
How can I repair this, recrimp the lead? What spray should I apply to avoid shorting?
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
There is more than 1 way to repair that, but here's what I would try.
The copper colored 'bare' looking wire is actually coated in a varnish type insulation - IIRC. That needs to be scrapped off and the connector w/ Red wire needs to be removed, leaving as much of the Red wire as possible.
Then, I'd splice the Red wire and copper wire with an insulated, water proof connector. ie: Polyolefin Heat Shrink **** Connector, Waterproof Crimping Terminal
You may not need to insulate the thin wire, but if it is necessary -- you can use shrink tubing or ie: Gardner Bender LTB-400 Liquid Electrical Tape, Easy-on, Waterproof.
Z2V
Well-known member
Great find!
Nice, I just ordered some Liquid Electrical Tape.
Does it matter if the starting wires are shorted to each other? Here is a picture since GJ has issues with embedding imgur.
https://i.imgur.com/yBPJ697.jpg
torqueman2002
Well-known member
That's too bad, but it may be OK to use.
First - confirm the resistance of the start winding is within 10% of spec.
Then - carefully separate the individual wires just enough to allow a coating of the following --> MG Chemicals Red GLPT Insulating Varnish. Allow to dry and place the wires in the original orientation.
BTW - that is probably where the short to the case (ground) is/was.
Finally - reassemble, verify the rotor is aligned and does not rub, verify there are no shorts to ground, then power up.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice score.that is hella nice. you ****.
Here's a really nice 1/2 hp commercial for sale in the San Jose area:
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/6104192871.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/6104192871.html
Shiftless
Well-known member
Is that set up for motor drive from underneath? I see a switch on the block. Shall we assume the stock motor is dead and the P.O. Figured a way around that problem?
Are those stones on the ends simply worn down grinding wheels?
Are there chucks on the shaft ends?
No Guards?
Scary!
Are those stones on the ends simply worn down grinding wheels?
Are there chucks on the shaft ends?
No Guards?
Scary!
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cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
That would be my guess, points for not trashing it...but not too safe
Here's a really nice 1/2 hp commercial for sale in the San Jose area:
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/6104192871.html
How did that one get on my bench??
torqueman2002
Well-known member
There was one like this in our area. Older pre-Block converted to run with an external motor.That would be my guess, points for not trashing it...but not too safe
If I'd been closer, I might have paid the $20, as it still had every thing else intact - metal frame eye shields, wheel guards, and tool rests.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
How did that one get on my bench??
Shiftless
Well-known member
Nice score jz 
torqueman2002
Well-known member
https://fortwayne.craigslist.org/tls/6118990326.html
Fort Wayne CL Crown Top Commercial. Probably 1/2-HP or more?!
Listed about 3 hours ago.
$30, stand (CM?) included.
Fort Wayne CL Crown Top Commercial. Probably 1/2-HP or more?!
Listed about 3 hours ago.
$30, stand (CM?) included.
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Well, I went through and coated all the exposed windings with varnish. I tried to power it on multiple times, even spun it then flicked the switch, and as soon as I did the arbor stopped in it's tracks. It looks like I'm going to have to rewind this thing. Any suggestions on where to purchase good windings and the gauges required?
I recall you have a Split Phase 1/2hp model, and not really worth putting that kind of money into it. Time to part it out or look for a donor grinder that needs your parts.
I hear ya. I would like to learn how to rewind this thing myself, but am also wanting to get a grinder up and running. I'm fine with spending money, if it allows me to learn a new skill.
As far as the windings, are they aluminum windings coated with a varnish? When exposed, they have a light metallic color, not a copper color. Does anyone know the gauge of the starting windings and the main windings? I can get the measurements, but I'd prefer accurate numbers from someone with a working grinder, haha. I'd like to replace the windings with a more modern approach, I believe nylon coated windings with paper insulation and wraps for integrity and strength.
I'm also looking for a suitable replacement starting relay to use for testing. I've completely ripped my current relay apart and tested all the continuity and resistance through it and believe it is working fine. I'd like to purchase a more modern replacement, but am unsure of exactly what specs are required.
If I can get this thing in a working state, I'd definitely post my troubleshooting and experience, in order to help out other people.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Stripped block grinder $19.95 see eBay item number:172663419362
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
I don't recall a post where that's been done in this thread al least.
It would be a great thread/post.
You might want to search on OWWM website, link - --> http://owwm.org/.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.
jeeper46
Well-known member
Ever since I started coming to GJ, I was interested in these block grinders-I just have a couple of Chinese ones, and I wanted something good. Today, a 1/2hp Craftsman grinder came my way-almost unused, with what I figure is the original tubular stand for it. Both plastic eyeshields, and the water tray,too. The tray looks like it has never had water in it, and I would say this grinder had never been used, except that someone ground something aluminum and slightly loaded both wheels. The wheels are the original Sears ones. This one's too nice to use! I do a lot of wire-wheeling, so the HF ones aren't going to get a break.
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cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Congrats Jeeper46 but word of caution; they are addictive!
trijeff
Well-known member
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Scored this mail box 1/3 hp mail box grinder off craigslist for $15 [emoji1] it is a 1970 and I wanted it because it has the glass eye protection! I cleaned it up and it works great! Has some random paint splatter on it but it is a good user ! I am selling my 1975 1/3 block grinder that is nice if anyone is interested ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Nice pickup, the stand alone is likely worth more than you have in it?
Is your mustang "gulfstream aqua" (color)?
Well, I've got $30 in it at this moment so I should come out ahead.
As far as the Mustang, it was a very late 66 production car and originally had a 67 color called Beige Mist. That color was hideous, so it's now another 66 color called Tahoe Turquoise.
As far as the Mustang, it was a very late 66 production car and originally had a 67 color called Beige Mist. That color was hideous, so it's now another 66 color called Tahoe Turquoise.
wrxr7
Member
Just picked this up last night off Craigslist. I've been looking for one for quite a while now.
Needs to be cleaned up, but is complete with both eye shields, tool rests, light and quench tray. Mounted on a very heavy stand.
Needs to be cleaned up, but is complete with both eye shields, tool rests, light and quench tray. Mounted on a very heavy stand.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Nice find!
I'm surprised the Buffalo/Niagara area doesn't seem to have the supply of other NE industrial centers. IIRC - there is/was a lot of manufacturing, leaving me to think there would be a steady supply of Blocks, like in SE Michigan. But, I haven't found that to be the case.
That will serve you well.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
I received a question about what I think is the 'best' Block grinder.
Setting aside the round top vs. flat top style preference, and the differences in the numbers Sears produced for the different HP/model Blocks - here is how I replied.
"Like many tools, what the application/use will be, is very helpful in choosing the grinder to buy.
Here are my thoughts on the different Block grinder HP models, round top vs. flat top style preferences aside:
1/4-HP, pre-Blocks, under rated power - more like 1/2-HP, may not come with eye shields, spark arresters, light, or power sw
1/3-HP, light grinding sharpening, light rust removal
1/2-HP, light - medium duty home shop use. Sharpening mower blades, light - moderate rust removal
3/4-HP, medium - heavy duty home shop use. Sharpening mower blades, moderate - heavy rust removal, light - moderate polishing
1-HP, heavy duty home & industrial shop use. heavy grinding, heavy rust removal, moderate - heavy polishing".
I realize that there are 1/4-HP round and flat top Blocks, but I don't have any experience with them.
I'd like to hear what other Block users think.
Thanks for reading.
Setting aside the round top vs. flat top style preference, and the differences in the numbers Sears produced for the different HP/model Blocks - here is how I replied.
"Like many tools, what the application/use will be, is very helpful in choosing the grinder to buy.
Here are my thoughts on the different Block grinder HP models, round top vs. flat top style preferences aside:
1/4-HP, pre-Blocks, under rated power - more like 1/2-HP, may not come with eye shields, spark arresters, light, or power sw
1/3-HP, light grinding sharpening, light rust removal
1/2-HP, light - medium duty home shop use. Sharpening mower blades, light - moderate rust removal
3/4-HP, medium - heavy duty home shop use. Sharpening mower blades, moderate - heavy rust removal, light - moderate polishing
1-HP, heavy duty home & industrial shop use. heavy grinding, heavy rust removal, moderate - heavy polishing".
I realize that there are 1/4-HP round and flat top Blocks, but I don't have any experience with them.
I'd like to hear what other Block users think.
Thanks for reading.