let's see your craftsman block grinders

[torqueman2002]

Yes, I see now - the bolts don’t pass through the bushings. It’s a lousy illustration - it should show the side elevation instead of on-end And the text should say “bushings” instead of “bushing.”
Thanks for clearing up my misperception, torqueman!

You are welcome!

 

[LesserSon]

Turned my attention to the flattop grinder today. The original paint on this generation was textured, unlike earlier smooth or hammered finishes. In hindsight, I could have put a layer of textured down where aluminum corrosion had popped it off. It’s going to be my user, so I’m not going to agonize about the visible smooth and rough spots.
But the big news for me is how CLOSE a MATCH Rustoleum Universal matte metallic gunmetal gray is to the original! I cannot see the difference in full sunshine.
The steel cover is next, and I’m planning to use a brushed-on hammered silver. I don’t think it will be as close a colormatch, but...

EDIT - uggghh! an unmitigated disaster. Do not use brushable paint 10° below its recommended temperature range. I might have gotten away with it if I had xylol on hand to thin it. Now, I’ll have wait for it to fully cure, sand it flat and try again. No pics of THAT mess.

 

[Old Radar]

EDIT - uggghh! an unmitigated disaster. Do not use brushable paint 10° below its recommended temperature range. I might have gotten away with it if I had xylol on hand to thin it. Now, I’ll have wait for it to fully cure, sand it flat and try again. No pics of THAT mess.

Always read the directions and cautionary statements before disregarding them.

 

[torqueman2002]

EDIT - uggghh! an unmitigated disaster. Do not use brushable paint 10° below its recommended temperature range. I might have gotten away with it if I had xylol on hand to thin it. Now, I’ll have wait for it to fully cure, sand it flat and try again. No pics of THAT mess.

Sorry to hear that.

I brush painted a CM upper and lower red/grey tool box with hammered paint and had very uneven coverage.

I do like RustOleum spray hammered paint, even though it takes a looong time to fully cure.

 

[Bugeyed Earl]

I get pretty good results with hammerite paint by using a small roller. Here's a vintage Ajusto stool that I painted a few years ago:

 

[LesserSon]

Yes - That looks great.
I should have used a roller, but as I noted, I should NOT have done it when the air was 37°F. The paint stiffened before it could spread out. I have had excellent results with a brush at 90°F. I just was being foolishly impatient.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

That stool looks great Earl!

LesserSon, I also have a hard time admitting to myself when "painting season" is over. I've botched a thing or two myself, not wanting to wait till Spring.

 

[11b30b4]

Greetings, I picked up a ¾ HP Craftsman 397.19350 7” Bench “Block” Grinder from Offer-up in December 2020. I paid 60 bucks and this thing looked rough, but it ran nicely. I forgot to take any pics before I started the tear down. This pic is from the listing.

View media item 109643
Anywho, I have the replacement decal from Mattblast.

View media item 109642
And I have torn the thing apart for cleaning and rebuild. I started a thread for all this already but wanted to say hello.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=471675

 

[11b30b4]

Guys, sincc the plastic lamp shade is no longer available, I am working on producing some vacuum formed replacements. I will not know the viability of these until I make a few for testing. If it works out, I will let yall know.

 

[torqueman2002]

Guys, sincc the plastic lamp shade is no longer available, I am working on producing some vacuum formed replacements. I will not know the viability of these until I make a few for testing. If it works out, I will let yall know.

 

[Outlawmws]

Vacuum forming is heat based, so I suspect an incandescent bulb (400 degree F surface temps?) will kill such pretty quick. With LED you may have a shot. (A 60 Watt equivalent I can hold in my hand comfortably)

 

[Chadwilliam1]

I still need a stator

 

[alpinewhite]

Guys, sincc the plastic lamp shade is no longer available, I am working on producing some vacuum formed replacements. I will not know the viability of these until I make a few for testing. If it works out, I will let yall know.

Won't a cheap lamp from, say, Ikea have such a hood that can be used for these grinders?

 

[Old Radar]

Won't a cheap lamp from, say, Ikea have such a hood that can be used for these grinders?

Heretic!

 

[alpinewhite]

Something like this would work, right? And this has LEDs

 

[Nexoidian]

Just picked up this 1/2 hp 397.19590

Curious if anyone has spare larts laying around.
Mostly looking for:
Left outer cover
Left housing
Both eye shields

It’s not the nicest yet but it’ll look great when I’m done with it.

Do these 1/2 hp take the 6203 bearings like the 1/3 hp do? I haven’t disassembled yet

 

[torqueman2002]

Here a couple of ft Blocks in the SE Michigan area, pricing is reasonable.
https://flint.craigslist.org/tls/d/byron-bench-grinder/7263420199.html

Here's another 1/2-HP, 'fixer-upper'!
https://flint.craigslist.org/tls/d/flint-craftsman-2-hp-bench-grinder/7263546664.html

 

[Nexoidian]

Torqueman, I’ve got my eye on both of those. Hoping I get lucky and they’ll be available next weekend!

 

[torqueman2002]

Just picked up this 1/2 hp 397.19590

Do these 1/2 hp take the 6203 bearings like the 1/3 hp do? I haven’t disassembled yet

The bearings are determined by the arbor dia. and bearing width. See the chart below.


NOTE: My incomplete list does not show it, but most 1/3 & 1/2-HP Blocks use a 1/2" arbor. Model 397.19410 below, is unique - it has an electronic brake.

NTN Bearing
6202Z
Single Shielded
15 mm Bore ID 0.5906 in (1/2 in shaft 0.500 in)
35 mm OD 1.3780 in
11 mm Width 0.4331 in
---------------------------------------
NTN Bearing
6202ZZ
Double Shielded
15 mm Bore ID 0.5906 in (1/2 in shaft 0.500 in)
35 mm OD 1.3780 in
11 mm Width 0.4331 in
----------------------------------------------------------------------
NTN Bearing
6203ZZC3
Double Shielded
17 mm Bore ID 0.6693 in (5/8 in shaft 0.625 in)
40 mm OD 1.5748 in
12 mm Width 0.4724 in
---------------------------------------
NTN Bearing
6203Z
Single Shielded
17 mm Bore ID 0.6693 in (5/8 in shaft 0.625 in)
40 mm OD 1.5748 in
12 mm Width 0.4724 in

 

[torqueman2002]

Torqueman, I’ve got my eye on both of those. Hoping I get lucky and they’ll be available next weekend!

Call them. I have been lucky with sellers holding them, but these go quickly.

The sooner you can get them, I have found, the more likely you are to be successful.

Good luck!

 

[LesserSon]

I made two 2-1/2” tall cylindrical shims out of soup cans.
I’m very pleased with the first, made from the type that requires a can opener to open. It was about a quarter-inch too large in circumference, but since I used a nibbler to slit it, it slipped into the base perfectly. The post slid snuggly inside. The remaining rim keeps the can in place.
The other can was one of those pull-tab types. It was slightly smaller, so I used tin snips to slit it. There is a problem with the narrow inside rim that remains when the top is off. I folded it down, but it extends beyond the outer rim, creating TWO layers between the post and the lower collar of the cast top. I forced it on with a rubber mallet. Looks okay, but I’m thinking the different thickness is putting unnecessary stress on the cast there, which was the exact concern that led me to want to try shimming it.
I’ll see IF I can get it back apart, and find another can, LOL.

EDIT - Yep, it came off with some more pounding. I took advantage of the opportunity to relieve a sharp edge with a file and touched up the paint.

 

[Old Radar]

Yep, there's a little OCD in all of us!

 

[11b30b4]

Outlawmws, you may be correct, and I do use a LED bulb in my lamp; however, I will explore this option regardless. There is always the option to make a silicone mold of an original then cast replacements with a different plastic that is heat resistant. This would increase the cost to reproduce them but it’s still an option. I do not know how much heat actually makes it to the shade from the aluminum heat shield. And I am in the process of doing my first block grinder rebuild so I still have a lot of unknowns.

Alpinewhite, yes there are options that can be modified to work with these grinders but that is not the point. The point is to have a “original” look. Ideally, most of us would prefer all OEM parts but that is not an option form some of us and a reproduction is the next best thing if it can be done.

Anywho, I will let you guys know if this pans out.

 

[threeputt]

I own two 1960's block grinders. Both 1/2 hp.

The one I just bought is an accident waiting to happen. Or maybe already did lol

Anyone see what I am referring to on picture number 2 ?

I have already started the rebuild on the one in picture number 2.

The first one I use everyday. As soon as I get the one I just bought done I will use it and rebuild the one I have owned for 50 years.

The one I just bought is complete. A rare find and it works great. Just want to make it look new again.

 

[torqueman2002]

... The one I just bought is an accident waiting to happen. ...

I'd say, if you are going to use a tool rest with a wire wheel, it should be ~1/16" from the wheel, to lessen the chance of pulling your fingers into the wheel 'house' & grinding your fingers.

 

[threeputt]

I'd say, if you are going to use a tool rest with a wire wheel, it should be ~1/16" from the wheel, to lessen the chance of pulling your fingers into the wheel 'house' & grinding your fingers.

I would say you are correct
I just had to use it for less than a minute last week because I was in a hurry and didn't want to walk 50 feet to the other one in the picture. . Now I am out of commission for a few weeks because I violated my own safety rules. Och

 

[Outlawmws]

I didn't SEE any bloodstains...

Heal fast!

 

[threeputt]

I didn't SEE any bloodstains...

Heal fast!

Thanks , Picture was taken a few days before I sharpened my finger. I should be fine in a couple of weeks. Just got to keep it clean

 

[torqueman2002]

I would say you are correct
I just had to use it for less than a minute last week because I was in a hurry and didn't want to walk 50 feet to the other one in the picture. . Now I am out of commission for a few weeks because I violated my own safety rules. Och

I happens fast. I have lost my fair share of skin!

 

[11b30b4]

Threeputt, ouch.
Objects in motion tend to stay in motion and with murphy in play, they tend to draw other objects to them (workshop magnetism).

Ok updated my grinder rebuild.
View media item 109821

 

[torqueman2002]

Nice looking Block!


"workshop magnetism" - LOL

 

[11b30b4]

Torqueman, thank you. Although, if I had thought about it, I could have painted the center section back and claimed inspiration from these guys:

View media item 109823

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

Looks great!...like the Cylons too...


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[threeputt]

Threeputt, ouch.
Objects in motion tend to stay in motion and with murphy in play, they tend to draw other objects to them (workshop magnetism).

Ok updated my grinder rebuild.
View media item 109821

Yes, hope to never let that happen again. It has been one week. It is healing but this thing is going to take a month or more. No infection but I am keeping it clean. Really can't do much with my left hand.

 

[Bugeyed Earl]

Threeputt, ouch.
Objects in motion tend to stay in motion and with murphy in play, they tend to draw other objects to them (workshop magnetism).

Ok updated my grinder rebuild.

Holy cow, that's gorgeous!! Did you shoot some clear lacquer over those polished bits to keep them shiny?

 

[Bugeyed Earl]

I picked up a crusty but mostly complete 1/2 model today. It has a long way to go until it compares to 11b30b4's gem

I'm going to pair it up with its twin on my little grinding station:

 

[11b30b4]

Stillgottimefor1, thank you.
Bugeyed Earl, no I simply shine the metal with Mothers Aluminum Polish and I do plan on putting on a very thin coat of Johnson’s Floor wax.
BTW my grinder actually looked worse than your does. You could hardly read the decal on mine and the gooseneck was fubar. The rust on the stator band was bad as well. I say all this to say, you should be able to clean that thing up nicely.

 

[11b30b4]

Heads up gentleman, I have located this metal lamp shade/ heat shield as a possible good replacement for part # 4971959: Although it is not an exact reproduction, it looks to be fairly close. The obvious difference it the separate but affixed ring mount. Also, since it is a side pic its hard to tell just how close the shape is to the original. I will order one of these later this week and once I get it I will compare it to the original. I am hoping it is more pear shaped and less round (like the more common parabolic shades are).
https://www.mylampparts.com/product...MIq9GM35C37gIVUtbACh2SmAwoEAQYAiABEgKclPD_BwE

Also, I now have a plastic lamp shade to work with, I am hoping to vacuum form a shade in ABS plastic. If this works, and you want one, you will need to use a LED bulb to reduce the heat. More to come on this when I am further along.

 

[M. Blue 240]

I'm in need of some help. I was 2nd in line to buy this 1963 grinder and the seller called me to say the 1st buyer showed up and they found that the grinder was kicking the breaker when they tried to turn it on. If I promised to fix it he would give me the grinder for free...I jumped on it! Before I got there he pulled the base and found an exposed wire, likely the culprit.

20210125_120535 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

20210125_115307 by M. Blue 240, on Flickr

You can see the brown wire is the culprit, but I'd like to refresh each of the wires. Plug and play wires I can fix easily, but these wires don't just pull off. Any tips on the best way to replace/repair the wires?

 

[Old Radar]

It looks like the real problem is the exposed wire on the brown just as it disappears under the winding. The sheathing looks shaved like someone made a repair attempt and then gave it up. I'm certainly no expert, but I don't know if that spot can be fixed without a re-winding job. I'd be tempted to try some liquid "electrical tape" on the brown wire before I opened that can of worms. Good Luck!!