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Lift modifications Thread- Lets see them!

Relax

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Nov 22, 2011
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GTA, Ontario
Due to floor slope, the entry end of my Bendpak is on 3 inch or so risers/shims which means the platform was around 9" off the driveway. The steel ramps that came with it are not only really heavy, they were nowhere nearly long enough but too long to leave attached and still close my garage door. Cut 16 inches or so off them to clear the door, got some lightweight trailer Race-Ramps and things are much easier (and safer than the homebrew wood ramps I had)

I did the same with my ramps, but only cut enough to clear a 2x12 under each. My driveway has slightly sunken below the garage, so I also got a pair of Race Ramps Trak-Jax to help with that.

For my lift, I accounted for the slope by adjusting the cables so the end near the garage door lifts first until level, then both ends raise together. I decided that for the amount of time I need the car level on the ground, it was better to do it this way than to have a huge height difference at the garage door.
 
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Oldbear

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Aug 31, 2011
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Linden, Alberta, Canada
Like many here before me, I have installed LED strip lights on my lift. Pardon the pun but the difference is night and day.

I got everything from Amazon and I'm under $80 CDN. 45-degree aluminum channel with frosted lens, 6,000K white lights, some frame clips for wiring, and a pigtail extension cord. I used carpet tape to hold the channel in place as I drilled holes for the cheap screws included with the parts. One run down each side so I got to practice my soldering. I used clear silicone to fill the top and bottom gaps.

I still need my headlamp for some of the stuff but I can do things like oil changes and such with just the LED strips. I'm very happy with the project.
 

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Relax

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434
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GTA, Ontario
I got everything from Amazon and I'm under $80 CDN. 45-degree aluminum channel with frosted lens, 6,000K white lights, some frame clips for wiring, and a pigtail extension cord.
If you got those through Amazon.ca, can you post links to the parts? All of the ones I’ve seen before were from the .com site and are either not available up here or much more expensive. Would be nice to have the same shopping list as someone who got good results!
 

Oldbear

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Aug 31, 2011
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Linden, Alberta, Canada
Here are the tracks. I liked these as the cover gets put on from the top (push it on) rather than sliding it in from an end.


And the LED strip. I would have liked an ON/OFF switch rather than a dimmer dial - but this still works and I'll re-wire it at a later date.

 

racecougar

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Jan 26, 2021
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Missouri
It's an old and simple mod, but I'll post it here anyway. I had planned to buy a roll-around oil drain tank right after I bought my lift, but I came up with this. It takes up waaaay less space, is less hassle to empty, and doesn't get in the way under the car. It's just a simple platform, keyed to the rails, for the typical oil drain pan to rest on during an oil change.


100936677_10100550030367743_9181323443738509312_n.jpg
 

Glemon

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Aug 29, 2020
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NE
I rounded off the outer corners of the on the aluminum ramps with a small file today. I usually take them off when I lift a car, but sometimes the stay on for quick lifts or moving cars around. The corners were sharp, if I caught one could get a very nasty cut.
 

Glemon

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I have low ceilings, I have a tape mark showing how high I can lift one of my sports cars under normal conditions, thought about adding a mechanical bell or something, but problem is conditions are not always normal. I learned this to my great regret when I worked on a car soon after I got the lift, jacked it up, then needed to lower it. You raise it to lower it. In my defense got call that my mom needed to go to the emergency room in the middle of the work, and was kind of in a hurry and distracted.

Anyway to account for variables like jacked up cars I took a simple but crude approach to roof or overlift protection. Cheap and quick, pool noodles cut in half.
 

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Oldbear

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Linden, Alberta, Canada
I have low ceilings, I have a tape mark showing how high I can lift one of my sports cars under normal conditions, thought about adding a mechanical bell or something, but problem is conditions are not always normal. I learned this to my great regret when I worked on a car soon after I got the lift, jacked it up, then needed to lower it. You raise it to lower it. In my defense got call that my mom needed to go to the emergency room in the middle of the work, and was kind of in a hurry and distracted.

Anyway to account for variables like jacked up cars I took a simple but crude approach to roof or overlift protection. Cheap and quick, pool noodles cut in half.
I wonder what the percentage of pool noodles that are used for anything but pool noodles is... We have them all over at our home and RV. Car door ding protection in the garage, holds RV fridge/freezer open in the offseason, etc. We should start a pool noodle modification thread...
 

Relax

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Nov 22, 2011
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GTA, Ontario
It's an old and simple mod, but I'll post it here anyway. I had planned to buy a roll-around oil drain tank right after I bought my lift, but I came up with this. It takes up waaaay less space, is less hassle to empty, and doesn't get in the way under the car. It's just a simple platform, keyed to the rails, for the typical oil drain pan to rest on during an oil change.


100936677_10100550030367743_9181323443738509312_n.jpg
Nice and simple solution, and probably what I should have done.

Instead, I had it in my mind that I wanted a rolling drain pan, so I bought one of these on sale for $100:

1626193547780.png

Four of these:

1626193874713.png

And two sizes of steel tubing (one that fits inside the other) - the idea being I could shrink the width if I ever chose to use the narrow setting of my lift. My friend welded the larger tubes to the drain pan, and nuts to the end of the smaller ones to screw the sheaves into. Not the best shot, but you get the idea:


1626194075315.png
 

javyLSU

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Jan 2, 2019
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New Haven, CT
I wonder what the percentage of pool noodles that are used for anything but pool noodles is... We have them all over at our home and RV. Car door ding protection in the garage, holds RV fridge/freezer open in the offseason, etc. We should start a pool noodle modification thread...
When you have young kids, you find ALL KINDS of uses for these things. We must have at least a dozen in our house.
 

Oldbear

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Aug 31, 2011
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Linden, Alberta, Canada
You can magnetically mount them on the edge of the runways just below the top.
The mounts I used could be mounted above your jack rollers - if you have room. They hold the LED strips at a 45 degree angle so you could mount them above the rollers - if you have room. Just did a rear air bag repair in the Yukon last night and the LED strips made for an easier to see diagnosis.
 

Doug

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Dec 20, 2005
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Salisbury, NC
I mounted my Maxjax pump to the column as I never move the lift. I ran the hose across the ceiling to the other side through a conduit. The bracket on the 'down' lever made it so I could let my car down without babysitting the lever.
 

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Fisherguy

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150 Mile House BC
You can magnetically mount them on the edge of the runways just below the top.
Here's what my rolling jacks look like. Might be able to attach some angle to the runway and put the lights ontop, they'd end up just above the top of the runway.
If I do this should I use 2 sided tape to attach the angle, not sure drilling and tapping the runway would be a good thing?

rolling jack.jpg
 

Relax

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GTA, Ontario
Here's what my rolling jacks look like. Might be able to attach some angle to the runway and put the lights ontop, they'd end up just above the top of the runway.
If I do this should I use 2 sided tape to attach the angle, not sure drilling and tapping the runway would be a good thing?

rolling jack.jpg
Looks pretty much like my Bendpak HD-7W. The parts oldbear used is 90 degree aluminum angle with the LED strip mounted at 45 degrees. I'm planning on sticking a magnetic strip to the vertical surface of the angle and then slap it on the vertical surface of the runway between the top of the runway and the top of the jack.
 

Fisherguy

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Oct 31, 2011
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150 Mile House BC
Looks pretty much like my Bendpak HD-7W. The parts oldbear used is 90 degree aluminum angle with the LED strip mounted at 45 degrees. I'm planning on sticking a magnetic strip to the vertical surface of the angle and then slap it on the vertical surface of the runway between the top of the runway and the top of the jack.

Post some pics when you're done.
You have rolling jacks?
I have drip trays too, the pieces oldbear used are 5'8" wide, might make it tricky to get the trays out.

Lights under the runways would be handy too when there's another car below the hoist when it's up maybe ... ? :unsure:
I know I wish I'd wired lights on the wall now that I have the hoist.
 

Swanny1953

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Lucas, TX
I, too, have a BendPak HD9 with the rolling bridge jack. I have mounted an LED strip pretty much the length of the runway. I used 3M magnetic tape, and then put the sticky side of the LED strip against the sticky side of the magnetic tape and now have magnetic LED lights that I can move if need be. No interference with the bridge jack at all.
See post 292 for pics as I posted this up a couple of years ago.
 
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Fisherguy

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Oct 31, 2011
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150 Mile House BC
I, too, have a BendPak HD9 with the rolling bridge jack. I have mounted an LED strip pretty much the length of the runway. I used 3M magnetic tape, and then put the sticky side of the LED strip against the sticky side of the magnetic tape and now have magnetic LED lights that I can move if need be. No interference with the bridge jack at all.
See post 292 for pics as I posted this up a couple of years ago.

Went back and had a look at your pics, so you didn't use the angled piece like oldbear and others used on their hoists?
You have any close up shots of how you did it?
Thx
 

Relax

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Nov 22, 2011
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GTA, Ontario
Went back and had a look at your pics, so you didn't use the angled piece like oldbear and others used on their hoists?
You have any close up shots of how you did it?
Thx
Sounds like he stuck the LED strip to the magnet, then the magnet to the vertical surface of the runway just below the top. So the two rows of LED's (one on each runway) are facing each other. The benefit of using the angle is that the LED's are pointed upwards at a 45 degree angle. LED's are pretty directional, but it probably makes less of a difference if they're very bright.
 

Fisherguy

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150 Mile House BC
Sounds like he stuck the LED strip to the magnet, then the magnet to the vertical surface of the runway just below the top. So the two rows of LED's (one on each runway) are facing each other. The benefit of using the angle is that the LED's are pointed upwards at a 45 degree angle. LED's are pretty directional, but it probably makes less of a difference if they're very bright.

Ya, I like the idea of the 45* angle pieces.
I'll trim down a piece of alum angle the size of those brackets and see if it'll work.
 

WhoWhatNow

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Feb 22, 2011
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Collegeville, PA
I used the 45° angle on my Bendpak HD-9ST. They do not interfere with the bridge jack. Removing the trays is a bit more effort but nothing terrible.
 

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Fisherguy

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Looks good, thanks. (y)
How'd you attach the angled pieces?

Looks like the brackets for your jacks are different than mine (not that it makes a difference with what I wanna do)
 

Relax

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GTA, Ontario
Ya, I like the idea of the 45* angle pieces.
I'll trim down a piece of alum angle the size of those brackets and see if it'll work.
Standard aluminum angle won't have the 45 degree channel for the led strip. Check out the links Oldbear provided.
 

Swanny1953

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Here are a couple of close up pics. I just mounted the magnetic tape on the edge of the 2 runways pointed straight up.
8C7426C4-D836-42ED-AD2D-7382B5770FE8.jpeg
You can also move the magnetic tape to the edge so it lights at a 45 degree angle.
EF618B0B-7877-4EBA-9A30-E658A557C1F7.jpegI prefer the light going straight up as the LED’s are quite bright and this position is easier on the eyes.
 

Andy Kraus

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Aug 26, 2012
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Pittsburgh PA
I have a Advantage DX-9000XLT that I had delivered and installed myself memorial day weekend of 2020. I got the manual bridge jack also with it. With the bridge jack you get the 4 extenders and the plain round pads that make contact with the vehicle. Does anyone have a lead on the Frame style adapters for Trucks, vans that fit the Advantage bridge jack??? I also got the LED Lights Advantage offers for the runways and the thick rubber pads for under each posts. All totally worth it in my opinion.
 
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ndm

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I cannot believe that after 5 years since I originally started this thread that A- The thread is still going and B- I still do not have a lift of my own.
***** because I still have the need for the lift but now that are like 1500 bucks more on average for the 4 post than they were when I started this post.(n):(:mad:
 

Oldbear

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I cannot believe that after 5 years since I originally started this thread that A- The thread is still going and B- I still do not have a lift of my own.
***** because I still have the need for the lift but now that are like 1500 bucks more on average for the 4 post than they were when I started this post.(n):(:mad:
Contact some of your local lift sellers. The lift I have was purchased used from a local installer/retailer by the local county for their shop. It was then sold in an auction to a friend of mine that never installed it on their farm - so I bought it.

The same salesman still has used ones for sale as he sells new units to shops. Sometimes it's because it's old (but still safe), sometimes they need a bigger/better lift. Before I got the Bradbury I was dealing on a Jim Beam 4 post alignment with two rolling air jacks for about a 1/4 of retail - the shop it was in had a contract for safeties on Mercedes vans and the old lift was too short. A friend got a great 2 post Rotary installed for $1800 - it needed a paint job but was mechanically sound. I'd rather be under my 1988 Bradbury than my friend's 5-year-old Princess Auto lift.
 

jbrentd

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Glad I checked the general forum today and saw this thread. Some great ideas in here that I can apply to a used 4 post lift I found for my new garage.
 

Swanny1953

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Bought a BendPak HD-9SWX for some additional car storage space - I was about out. This one raises enough I can get my Ram 1500 under it at full height. The downside is the life blocks a lot of light, so I ran 4 strips of 15’ LED lights on each of the runways. Provides pretty good light when needed.

No lights -087FDD33-F811-473A-9FE8-3D6532453A3F.jpeg

Lights on -
AF70F017-9D99-45D3-A1BC-F169D738B1CD.jpeg
 

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c39er

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I did the same...
 

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ndm

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Contact some of your local lift sellers. The lift I have was purchased used from a local installer/retailer by the local county for their shop. It was then sold in an auction to a friend of mine that never installed it on their farm - so I bought it.

The same salesman still has used ones for sale as he sells new units to shops. Sometimes it's because it's old (but still safe), sometimes they need a bigger/better lift. Before I got the Bradbury I was dealing on a Jim Beam 4 post alignment with two rolling air jacks for about a 1/4 of retail - the shop it was in had a contract for safeties on Mercedes vans and the old lift was too short. A friend got a great 2 post Rotary installed for $1800 - it needed a paint job but was mechanically sound. I'd rather be under my 1988 Bradbury than my friend's 5-year-old Princess Auto lift.
The issue with me is not about the money to purchase the lift. The issue is the space to put it in. My garage simply does not have it. Ceiling is 9'4" and width is barely enough to fit 2 cars. Then there is the standard garage door height and damnit if I dont have a hip roof which further complicates things.

I have been planning an addition to the house to add a tall bay 2 car tandem to the side plus a new master bedroom over the existing garage but then covid happened and lumber prices blew a hole out of my plans. I refuse to move anywhere in this state too. If I pack my **** up to move.....It will not be anywhere north of the Kentucky/Tennessee border.

I may just purchase a 4 post to put on the driveway that goes up the side of the house and connects to the rear patio. Advantage lift tells me that it would be okay to do so. I would hate to have to put an investment like that outside but I am running out of options.

And no... for those wondering, my municipality will not allow me to put a tall detached garage in the yard. Well technically I could get around the red tape for that but my property is only a third of an acre as is and the location where the detached would have to go would essentially eat up the yard quickly.

One thing is for sure....I should have offered more on the other home with the large 3 car garage with tall ceilings and tall garage doors. It is only a few blocks away and haunts me every time I drive by. Oh well we got outbid by just a few thousand bucks.
 

Relax

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GTA, Ontario
The issue with me is not about the money to purchase the lift. The issue is the space to put it in. My garage simply does not have it. Ceiling is 9'4" and width is barely enough to fit 2 cars. Then there is the standard garage door height and damnit if I dont have a hip roof which further complicates things.
That ceiling height seems tall enough to still get use out of a lift. Just check the manufacturer's dimensions and lock heights along with your vehicle height to see how much under-car clearance you'll have. Even if you have to use a roller stool to work under it, it beats jack stands, or even a Quickjack.
 
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ndm

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That is 9ft4 inch to the ceiling... even less with the garage door in the way. I was in the garage attic the other day though after posting this and I think there just may be a way to get 3 extra ft. I would have to have the door closed when working though. At least there is some hope though.
 
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