That's assuming a single garage door. On the other hand, this picture posted by @HIRISC was always an inspiration for installing a 4-post in a standard-height garage:
So let me try to explain. It is more complicated than that in this particular case.
I also had to use the hoist to unload an engine. My tractor can pick a big block Chevy with a ******, but it couldn’t budge this Unimog engine. I’m guessing 1200 lbs?
Not much clearance for the trailer. After the pallet was on the floor I used a freshly-salvaged pallet jack to stash the engine out of the way.We did something similar by using a 2-post as a gantry to load a tire changer onto a UHaul trailer at the shop, then I used one end of my 4-post to lift it out when I got home.
I widened one my lift,s 1 foot to lift my tandem boat trailer and store it .
Wow.. This one is too good to leave unposted.
Found it here
MaxJax placement, with a twist. - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
928 Forum - MaxJax placement, with a twist. - I've ordered a MaxJax, driven by fear of the motor mount rabbit hole. But I've got other vehicles ranging from my wife's SmartCar to a F150. For now, I'll put it in the workshop in the back of my studio; perhaps I'll build another garage next year...rennlist.com
I have the same lift and after nearly a year, that hasn't been an issue for me. Reading through some of these, I am now worried, just a little, about the exposed bottle. I wondered if I could remotely mount it to the wall with the controls, but I don't think easily doable.I’ve got an Advantage Lifts 9000XLT on the way and researching mods I may want to add.
Thinking about where to mount the power unit, I can see where either side of the post it’s mounted on may be in the way under some condition.
Has anyone ever done or think it would work well, to drill the post top plate and power unit arm to accept a 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” bolt and mount a thrust bearing between them to allow the arm and power unit to rotate to a different side of the post if needed?
Couldn’t find a pic so snagged a screenshot from an install video.
I’ve decided to use a sheet of UHMW instead of a thrust bearing. Lift is supposed to arrive 1/4 so I’ll see how it’ll work out then.
The bridge jack is/was a great addition. I want to fabricate a rolling hoist, maybe even look at a rolling jack tray and add a winch mount, so I can lift heavy objects up with the lift when it's up. Think car engine, etc....Recently added a bridge jack...
I store mine much like yours.
![IMG_8097[1].JPG](https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/data/attachments/1646/1646697-4afcb70bd157425065a5ddb0414ad948.jpg "IMG_8097[1].JPG")
I like it quite a bit. Glad I did it.
As I think I might have told you before, I'd probably buy those if someone sold them. I think I asked you if you would!If you work on any solid axle cars (and even if you don't), a pair of axle stands/adapters are a nice-to-have over the regular flat bridge jack pads. They provide insurance that whatever you're lifting doesn't slip off. I whipped these up some time back.
That said, when working on my 2012 Yukon XL, I'm not sure they would have helped much if any. Seems like I recall spacing was off, so I just used the high density foam 6" thick foam pads they included and they did the job. Excellent job though!
Mine fit there as well. Sometimes if I have a leaky car I'll throw cardboard over to catch the drips.Not really a modification, but I’ll post anyway. I’m sure I’m not the only one doing this, but I figured out a decent place to store my ramps. I was trying to think of a good way to get them off the floor. Turns out the simple solutions work the best sometimes. Not sure why it took me so long. They fit nicely between the rails, stacked on each other.
I’d seen other posts of adding one, read accounts of button sticking or failing internally (not on an Advantage lift) and thought it would be cheap insurance. My teen boys will use the lift too, so should something like that happen and I’m not right there at the time, it’s a panic button for them.
) and bump the hoist up an inch or two for accurate placement and the motor doesn't turn off. You can stand there and hold the lowering lever to keep the hoist from raising one side of the car up - remember the other side hasn't been set yet - but you might be there a long time waiting for someone else to turn the breaker off.Glad to help! I was also tired of walking around them or seeing them take up space. I like that they are so close, for when they are needed.
I understand for some lifts it might be good. For the 4 post advantage, I didn't see a need, but I get it with the teens using it..... maybe i overestimate the pushbutton that's on these as well.Some hoists use the pushbutton to start the motor to handle the full motor current. This is a huge inductive load to make and break with a small microswitch. The scenario where an e-stop is handy is when you're setting the hoist arms. You swing them under the vehicle on one side (typically the motor side
In a perfect world this would never happen because you'd always set the opposite side first, the vehicle would always be perfectly centered in both directions on the hoist, there is never anything on the floor that interferes with the hoist arms, there's always a 2nd person in the shop, etc. Now, back to the real world...you install a secondary means of stopping the hoist.
Like thisHere's what my rolling jacks look like. Might be able to attach some angle to the runway and put the lights ontop, they'd end up just above the top of the runway.
If I do this should I use 2 sided tape to attach the angle, not sure drilling and tapping the runway would be a good thing?
Not really “mods” as I am still in “setup / adjustment” phase of my lift install, but some things I’ve done.
Made a bracket for an emergency stop switch (idea from this thread) and mounted it to the power unit plate.
Found a 2’ 12/3 whip with triple outlets on the end at Rual King. Got two of them and cut the opposite end off each one. Used them to wire into the emergency stop switch.
The line side runs up to a 40’ 12/3 extension cord that runs up across the joists and down the wall to an outlet. The load side has the triple outlet end and dumps just under the stop button.
The lift is plugged into the triple outlet and the remaining two will be used for led tape lights when I get to that point.
I stuffed the excess lift power cord up into the arm that holds the power unit.
Nearly anything that comes with push clips gets them replaced with the quick ring type, did just that to the pin on each lift caster.
