Light Fixture Layout Collections
- Thread starter Platonic Solid
- Start date
benchracer1
Well-known member
The led high bay lights that platonic recommended are outstanding. I have a 36x56 16 ft wall height building. I'm now finishing a 14 x14 8ft. Wall workroom in the building. I need some over bench lighting as well as some ceiling lights. Can anybody recommend some led lighting. I'm trying to stay away from going to big box stores and getting something that I'm not happy with...
Steve
Steve
Fisherguy
Well-known member
I bought 4 4ft LED fixtures to mount under my mezzanine over-top my workbench from my local hardware store for $40 each (Cdn) on sale. Haven't mounted them yet, still getting the shop setup but mocked up one of them and I think they'll be fine.
Platonic, would your typical layout for the 24x28 garage change with a vaulted ceiling? I just framed in a 24x28 garage extension with a 8’ H x 16’ W garage door on the 24’ wall with the vaulted ceiling starts at 9’ and peaks at ~17’. The 9’ starts on the 24’ wide wall. I’m starting to plan out the electric and want to layout the lights before I start.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Fisherguy
Well-known member
You guys try the online design tool I posted a link to earlier?
Toomanytools?
Well-known member
I think Platonic is on break, he was bombarded with layout questions and which light fixture was the best. It would be nice to clean up the post best light fixture and layout collection. Pro lighting will do a layout and quote for free tell them what lights you are looking at and shop specs.
Platonic might chime in but the poor guy needs some rest.
I don't blame him, i don't frequent this thread too often but was amazed that one guy had so much input for other users.
TTMotorsports
Well-known member
You can pay platonic to do layout and everything for you.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Sorry guys, I've just been too busy at work and home. Now that the weather is warmer my self-imposed workload will only increase.
Toomanytools?
Well-known member
I think this thread has a ton of good info but it has gotten too large to scroll through and decipher all of it. Especially if you are a new member looking to light up your shop.
Seems there is some basic rules that apply 10 feet and below use ** lumens, 10',12' another **, 12' and above looking at 15,000 and up but not over ** amount.
Once we have a layout that works say 20'x30' you should be able to expand to 40'x60'?
I know there are variables in height and reflectivity and in ceilings that are flat or pitched. Building layouts and use, and user young eyes versus older. Must be some basic guidelines that can be followed and posted as a sticky.
Anyway just thinking out loud I know it's a confusing topic for many myself included, just a lot of lighting choices.
Seems there is some basic rules that apply 10 feet and below use ** lumens, 10',12' another **, 12' and above looking at 15,000 and up but not over ** amount.
Once we have a layout that works say 20'x30' you should be able to expand to 40'x60'?
I know there are variables in height and reflectivity and in ceilings that are flat or pitched. Building layouts and use, and user young eyes versus older. Must be some basic guidelines that can be followed and posted as a sticky.
Anyway just thinking out loud I know it's a confusing topic for many myself included, just a lot of lighting choices.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Unfortunately the "basic rules" are covered in several volumes published by the IES (Illuminating Engineering Society). The "Recommended Practice for Lighting Industrial Facilities" alone is 120 pages. Now add that lighting technology and fixture design is constantly evolving.
mdcotonopu
New member
Sure they make recessed fluorescent lighting...what do you think is in your typical office building? The same fixtures used in a dropped ceiling can be mounted in a hard ceiling.
shopoholic
Member
Re: gt1guy 50' x 80' x 18' (16' Walls)
My father in law just built a 30'x40' with 15' walls and a 4/12 pitch i do believe with a 15' overhang on one side. Two bays on the main part but only one will have a boat parked in it most of the time. He mentioned a ceiling fan in it, i would assume this would go in the center but for this size of a shop it probably wouldn't help anything i assume. only cast more shadows and be in the way? he wants to not be lacking in the light department and have as few shadows as possible.
Going to download some programs and attempt to create a layout myself but thought i could throw this up for the time being.
Would the lamps suggested and the layout in the quoted post be pretty much what i need with the exception of qty?
How are you linking your lights gt1guy?
Suggested Fixtures and Lamps:
Qty. 37 Lithonia TZR 2 54T5HO MVOLT 1/4 GEB10PS
or Cooper Metalux 8TSSF-254-UNV-EBT1 or 8TSNF-254-UNV-EBT1.
HD's $70 price tag for the Lithonia is hard to beat. Might want to open one and see what brand ballast is in there before buying 37 of them. I see HD sells what appears to be the exact same fixture without the "R" designation (I assume that means residential), thus TZ 2 54T5HO MVOLT 1/4 GEB10PS for $100.
Qty. 148 Sylvania 20949 F54T5HO 5000K $4.68 ea.
The 30,000 hr. life on the site is wrong. The most current Sylvania spec sheet (linked) says 40-45,000 hrs.
I linked to this bulb on a prior layout at $3.80 ea. from 1000bulbs dot com, but that may have been an error on their part as they now don't carry it at all.
(Click all images for larger views)
fc plots at 30" workplane height. Average illuminance = 94fc
My father in law just built a 30'x40' with 15' walls and a 4/12 pitch i do believe with a 15' overhang on one side. Two bays on the main part but only one will have a boat parked in it most of the time. He mentioned a ceiling fan in it, i would assume this would go in the center but for this size of a shop it probably wouldn't help anything i assume. only cast more shadows and be in the way? he wants to not be lacking in the light department and have as few shadows as possible.
Going to download some programs and attempt to create a layout myself but thought i could throw this up for the time being.
Would the lamps suggested and the layout in the quoted post be pretty much what i need with the exception of qty?
How are you linking your lights gt1guy?
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Kristang
Well-known member
Been digging through this thread, a TON of information and information overload, LOL! I am literally framing my 26wx28dx12h garage as I write this. Interior ceiling and walls will be done in bright white metal. I will have a 2 post lift in one bay, looking for a recommendation on lighting and layout. I see some post with similar dimensions but nothing current that quite matches mine. Thanks in advance for the help!
Hi Platonic Solid, I've read all the pages in this thread and didn't notice a suggestion as to how to deal with the patterns should our garage doors not be self contained but rather rolled up onto the track, thus blocking 8'x8' of the ceiling. I myself have a 23'x23'x9' garage that I'll be painting white next weekend (walls and ceiling). In the summer the doors stay up when I'm working in the garage and in the winter they're down to stay warm.
I'll be using the maxlight fixture you recommended in "the best lighting fixture ever" thread, as well as the versaT8 5k bulbs from that thread.
Would you provide some guidance as to whether or not I'm tossing in too many fixtures or incorrectly placed? Thank you
Attached is my sketch
I'll be using the maxlight fixture you recommended in "the best lighting fixture ever" thread, as well as the versaT8 5k bulbs from that thread.
Would you provide some guidance as to whether or not I'm tossing in too many fixtures or incorrectly placed? Thank you
Attached is my sketch
Attachments
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
nastorino - Please increase image size.
Attached as the excel file I created it in. The screenshot always remains small due to using my wife's 13" MacBook :LOL_hitti
Hopefully one of these is better for you, likely the web link to my gdrive
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RqvS8TsppUpUbHyxJlGTBnW4whQptKlL/view?usp=sharing
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scout4bta
Well-known member
I've finished the lighting of my workshop and could not be happier with the results. The building is 26'x34',884 sq ft.. I read through all of Platonic Solid's examples for lighting and settled on 24 fixtures each containing 2 T8 LED tubes @ 2000 lumen each. Thats about 100 lumen per sq ft. The color is 4100K, love the color. The OSB is painted with a high hide white, eggshell finish.
I'm still in the process of finishing up the floor layout (finalizing), so it's still messy along with some projects that needed to be done.
I'm still in the process of finishing up the floor layout (finalizing), so it's still messy along with some projects that needed to be done.
Attachments
Can I ask.why you went 4100k over 5000k?
scout4bta
Well-known member
Just a personal preference. And if it's good enough for the US Army it's good enough for me. I'm not being trite, Platonic Solid does work for the US Army (or Dod can't remember) but he said the new requirement for the them is 4100K +/-300 color.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
scout4bta - DoD. Requirement is indeed 4100K +/- 297 (to be ridiculously exact). I'm impressed you remember that. For the home garage it really is a personal preference issue. I can go either way, as long as they're all the same.
nastorino - Something like this (link). I don't like putting fixtures 1' from the wall, but we have to work with the space available. If you find the open garage doors cause too much shadow, you could drop those fixtures down.
nastorino - Something like this (link). I don't like putting fixtures 1' from the wall, but we have to work with the space available. If you find the open garage doors cause too much shadow, you could drop those fixtures down.
Thank you for clarifying the Kelvin question. Thank you for the layout as well.
The gap between the garage door/track and wall is closer to 16" rather than 12". I pulled quick numbers and rounded. I know you dislike less than 2' of space between. The fixture and wall. Unfortunately I have yard tools hung on the wall so I won't be able to drop the fixtures to a lower point. Knowing that the gap is actually 16", should I split the difference or leave it as 1' off?
Pg2 - at the center point of each numbered fixture a dot is present. Is that the intersection of the x & y axis that is supplied on the reference table?
Pg2 - are those xy measurement all off the SW corner (bottom left) where you have the compass plotted? That would be my reference start point?
Fisherguy
Well-known member
If the doors block the lights why not just close the doors? I close mine when it's hot out to keep the shop cool.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
If we're talking 8" or 12", I'd go for 12". It won't make that much difference.
Yes and Yes. Tweak as necessary.
Since you probably don't need all that light all the time, consider running 2 circuits.
Platonic Solid,
I have been through this thread several times trying to find a layout that would represent my building. Mine will be a metal building that is 100' x 40' with 12' eaves. The roof has a 2/12 pitch. I found a layout you did for ronzmtrwrx that was for a 50' x 60' x 12' which would work except the fixtures that you recommended are no longer available and I couldn't find the specifications on them to try to find another one that was similar.
The building will be fully insulated with a white vapor barrier exposed on the ceiling and all walls. All of the steel structural members will be painted in light gray. The floor will be epoxy painted in a very light gray with an LRV of 72%. I would like to attach the lighting fixtures to the underside of the purlins. On the drawing that I have included you will notice the dotted lines running from left to right. They represent the location of the purlins. I have also included the vertical height to the underside of the purlins up to the center of the building except for the first one which is 2’-3” from the wall. I assumed it was too close to the wall for lights. The building will be used for my personal machining, fabrication and general hobby work. As has been mentioned on here before, at 57 I find myself needing more light.
If you have already done a layout that you think would work for my building I would appreciate if you could direct me to it.
Thanks for everything you have done.
I have been through this thread several times trying to find a layout that would represent my building. Mine will be a metal building that is 100' x 40' with 12' eaves. The roof has a 2/12 pitch. I found a layout you did for ronzmtrwrx that was for a 50' x 60' x 12' which would work except the fixtures that you recommended are no longer available and I couldn't find the specifications on them to try to find another one that was similar.
The building will be fully insulated with a white vapor barrier exposed on the ceiling and all walls. All of the steel structural members will be painted in light gray. The floor will be epoxy painted in a very light gray with an LRV of 72%. I would like to attach the lighting fixtures to the underside of the purlins. On the drawing that I have included you will notice the dotted lines running from left to right. They represent the location of the purlins. I have also included the vertical height to the underside of the purlins up to the center of the building except for the first one which is 2’-3” from the wall. I assumed it was too close to the wall for lights. The building will be used for my personal machining, fabrication and general hobby work. As has been mentioned on here before, at 57 I find myself needing more light.
If you have already done a layout that you think would work for my building I would appreciate if you could direct me to it.
Thanks for everything you have done.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
steiner5 - Fixtures you can substitute for the Alphalite EHB2-110 14410 Lumen used on ronzmtrwrx layout:
Green Light Depot 110W Linear High Bay 13860 Lm
Green Light Depot 110W Linear High Bay 16406 Lm
Lithonia JEBL 12L 50K 80CRI WH
Green Light Depot 110W Linear High Bay 13860 Lm
Green Light Depot 110W Linear High Bay 16406 Lm
Lithonia JEBL 12L 50K 80CRI WH
OK....thanks. I wasn't sure if my mounting height was high enough for the high bay lights. I thought I read they needed to be at least 14' high and I only have one purlin that is at that height. I was thinking that I would need four rows of lights which would have them mounted on the purlins that are 12'4" and 13'8" high.
Fisherguy
Well-known member
Many people in this thread have used "high bay' lights with 12 ft ceilings, here's what Platonic's 2nd option looks like in my 40x25 shop with 12'9" ceilings with the dimmers set to max brightness, I'm very happy with them.
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Fisherguy,
Do you have a link regarding what your shop looks like with the 2nd option lights?
I found some linear high bay lights in the Visual Interior Tool and adjusted them to the specs of the 1st option. It produced a 4 x 8 grid (10' x 12.5') to produce 99fc at 30".
Do you have a link regarding what your shop looks like with the 2nd option lights?
I found some linear high bay lights in the Visual Interior Tool and adjusted them to the specs of the 1st option. It produced a 4 x 8 grid (10' x 12.5') to produce 99fc at 30".
Fisherguy
Well-known member
Yes I do but the pic I posted above shows you how it turned out.
Here's the link, I just finished moving my tools into it today and will add some pics to this thread showing the finished product tomorrow or the next day.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=406840
Kristang
Well-known member
Platonic Solid,
Been digging through this thread, a TON of information and information overload, LOL! I am literally framing my 26wx28dx12h garage as I write this. Interior ceiling and walls will be done in bright white metal. I will have a 2 post lift in one bay, looking for a recommendation on lighting and layout. I see some post with similar dimensions but nothing current that quite matches mine. 10 ft. Garage door when open will definitely take some of the ceiling surface but here in Minnesota, the door will only be open for extended periods of time for a few months of the year. Thanks in advance for the help!
Been digging through this thread, a TON of information and information overload, LOL! I am literally framing my 26wx28dx12h garage as I write this. Interior ceiling and walls will be done in bright white metal. I will have a 2 post lift in one bay, looking for a recommendation on lighting and layout. I see some post with similar dimensions but nothing current that quite matches mine. 10 ft. Garage door when open will definitely take some of the ceiling surface but here in Minnesota, the door will only be open for extended periods of time for a few months of the year. Thanks in advance for the help!
Platonic Solid, echoing what Kristang said above, TON of information and information overload! I'm building a house in UT and just finished house electrical walkthrough with our GC last week. We didn't do the garage yet because we ran out of time! The garage and shop are just over 2200sf (55'x28' garage & 26'x20' shop). The ceilings are 12'6" in the shop and on the left and right bay of the garage. The center two stalls of the garage have a 17' ceiling. After lurking in this thread, I know my architect did not include enough lighting. Especially for my tired eyes! I'd be curious to know what your, or anyone else reading this, thoughts are?Thanks in advance... Chris
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OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Sorry guys. Too many of my own projects in the works. I just don't have time for all this.
usmcHOG - Tell your architect that you want 93fc @ 30" work plane and no shadows when cars are in there.
Kristang - 12' ceilings in a 26'x28' is more challenging to get it right. I'd start with something like this fixture https://www.zoro.com/lithonia-light...mp-13286-lm-jebl-12l-50k-80cri-wh/i/G5908870/ and add the aluminum reflector to narrow the beam spread. And install a dimmer.
usmcHOG - Tell your architect that you want 93fc @ 30" work plane and no shadows when cars are in there.
Kristang - 12' ceilings in a 26'x28' is more challenging to get it right. I'd start with something like this fixture https://www.zoro.com/lithonia-light...mp-13286-lm-jebl-12l-50k-80cri-wh/i/G5908870/ and add the aluminum reflector to narrow the beam spread. And install a dimmer.
Kristang
Well-known member
Thank you Platonic Solid!
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Kristang - Here's a link to the Visual Photometric Tool preloaded with the JEBL w/aluminum reflector: http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/PhotometricViewer/default.aspx?id=248162
Here's without aluminum reflector: http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/default.aspx?id=248161
You could buy the fixture without the reflector and see how you like it. You can always add the reflector later if you think you need it.
Bees sells the reflector here: https://www.beeslighting.com/lithonia-high-bay-accessories/p/JEBLDALR-M4
If this fixture is too much for your budget, then substitute one of the other fixtures from post #750 above (or other similar output fixture). Keep in mind that the JEBL is very cheap to install - where the linear highbays have an initial lower fixture cost, but higher installation cost.
See this thread (link) for instructions on using the Visual Tool. The links above are preloaded with the JEBL fixture so you don't need to change that.
Here's without aluminum reflector: http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/default.aspx?id=248161
You could buy the fixture without the reflector and see how you like it. You can always add the reflector later if you think you need it.
Bees sells the reflector here: https://www.beeslighting.com/lithonia-high-bay-accessories/p/JEBLDALR-M4
If this fixture is too much for your budget, then substitute one of the other fixtures from post #750 above (or other similar output fixture). Keep in mind that the JEBL is very cheap to install - where the linear highbays have an initial lower fixture cost, but higher installation cost.
See this thread (link) for instructions on using the Visual Tool. The links above are preloaded with the JEBL fixture so you don't need to change that.
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