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Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

cccoltsicehockey

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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
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Location
Charlotte, NC
@lilscorpion Did you see the new Bambu H2D? I know you were considering one more before, so does this cause you to lean into another once since it is a bit different and can print larger? Can't wait till it hits real world users since it seems Bambu keeps reviewers from supposedly saying anything negative about their products.
 
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kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
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29,486
Location
Upstate New York
@lilscorpion Did you see the new Bambu H2D? I know you were considering one more before, so does this cause you to lean into another once since it is a bit different and can print larger? Can't wait till it hits real world users since it seems Bambu keeps reviewers from supposedly saying anything negative about their products.
Clough42 has a decent review. He's got the good and the bad in his review. He claims to have run his for a few hundred hours.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
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Location
Charlotte, NC
Link to the video...

Edit: TL:DR, It just works, like he has come to expect from Bambu. Jump to min 25:00 to hear the "Yes, but" comments.

Good video. Thank you. It will likely be between the X1C and this come this fall when I look to buy. I was wanting larger for less pieces for tool drawer holders and this might solve it.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
@lilscorpion Did you see the new Bambu H2D? I know you were considering one more before, so does this cause you to lean into another once since it is a bit different and can print larger? Can't wait till it hits real world users since it seems Bambu keeps reviewers from supposedly saying anything negative about their products.
Yeah, watched the videos early this morning. Im curious but not totally interested. May be because im not advanced enough in my printing skills. Maybe the most compelling in the video was how Clough printed a tube with integrated TPU gasket. That’s freakin cool as hell.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
I’ve been working on some new drawer organizers now exclusively in Fusion 360. Im starting to tackle some of the more frustrating things to grab. An example is the collets for the rib-nut gun. I was keeping them in a cup like thing which caused all the parts to more or less stay mixed up. That then encouraged me to keep the most common ones in the drawer outside the cup which allowed parts to get scattered in the drawer. No more.

IMG_5670.jpeg

Next is the hole saw drawer. Most of my hole saws are Morse with the integrated shank. They’re awesome for fabrication but totally **** to store. I’ve resorted to storing them face down which does work well but also scratches the snot out of the drawer itself which drives me nuts. These organizers allow me to store them face up. I’m still working on the Tetris of them and will like change the size of a few to better interlock but I’m close. After going thru the collection I realized I’m about 5 short of a full set 5/8” - 4 3/8” so I went ahead and ordered the remaining few. You might be wondering what the heck I need with so many hole saws…well before CNC router I fabricated templates for repeat operations and used a hand router.

IMG_5666.jpeg

Next up are the tap drawers. I have a **** ton of taps but it turns out I have way less of specific ones that I thought (like taper taps). Instead of having to refer to a drill tap chart I decided to add those details to the trays themselves.

IMG_5535.jpeg

Add that detail, and keeping the drills and taps right next to each other (instead of above/below like in the old shop), it should be way faster to get the setup I need for any given thread.

IMG_5539.jpeg

This drawer will give you an idea of what I’m shooting for but will need to be tweaked more than a little before it’s done because some of the organizers I printed I don’t need. E.g. I’ll always have spiral point and spiral flute taps in every size because I use them primarily in the knee mill and tapping arm. Tapers I like for starting threads when power tapping on the lathe (tho only really good in larger sized taps). That said, I never buy taper taps so I have way less than I used to which eliminates the need for having a dedicated place for them.

IMG_5545.jpeg

Last for how, Celco organizer. Cleco’s are a rarely used tools for me because I rarely do sheet metal work. I’ve been content keeping them in a little cardboard tray in the corner of a drawer but always disliked the digitization of doing so. This will be way better and make reaching for them enjoyable.

IMG_5671.jpeg
 
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XJSuperman

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Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
3,087
Location
Central Iowa
...Last for how, Celco organizer. Cleco’s are a rarely used tools for me because I rarely do sheet metal work. I’ve been content keeping them in a little cardboard tray in the corner of a drawer but always disliked the digitization of doing so. This will be way better and make reaching for them enjoyable.

IMG_5671.jpeg
Now theres a model I can use. I need to check on my tiny cleco collection that I never use becuase I don't much like sheetmetal work either.
Those drawers are really shaping up. Must feel amazing to be getting all that stuff off of counters or floors or wherever you keep unpacking it from!
 

SilverJimmy

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Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,628
Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
I have a quick question…
Is there a program that you could input the drawer size and then the sizes and quantity of the items you want bins for that would then do the Tetris for you? AI? Very cool organizer setup you are putting together.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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Joined
Apr 3, 2014
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1,388
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have a quick question…
Is there a program that you could input the drawer size and then the sizes and quantity of the items you want bins for that would then do the Tetris for you? AI? Very cool organizer setup you are putting together.
Not exactly what it is designed for but I wonder if you could get a rough starting point using a sheet goods cut calculator. That said I am surprised someone has not made a gridfinity calculator for bins and not just the grid panels.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
I have a quick question…
Is there a program that you could input the drawer size and then the sizes and quantity of the items you want bins for that would then do the Tetris for you? AI? Very cool organizer setup you are putting together.
A very good question. It’s occurred to me a time or two but haven’t spent time thinking about how it would work. It would be a nice tool to have. The way I do it now I end up re-printing pieces to finalize the layout after a bunch of guessing.

Not exactly what it is designed for but I wonder if you could get a rough starting point using a sheet goods cut calculator. That said I am surprised someone has not made a gridfinity calculator for bins and not just the grid panels.
Maybe. The hard part is there’s a lot of variables. Bin size, what you want to organize together, base size, and even clearance (drawer depth) maybe. Like the idea tho

Edit: maybe I’m over complicating it. Need to think about it more.
 
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cccoltsicehockey

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Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
1,388
Location
Charlotte, NC
My biggest fear of starting down this rabbit hole for organization is that I know there are still a ton of tools I want/need to eventually buy. If I make my drawers perfect for now I could be tossing an entire drawer full of prints in a couple of months when I finally need one of those tools for a project and at it to the collection. I likely will still do it anyways.
 

Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,656
Location
AZ
I’ve been working on some new drawer organizers now exclusively in Fusion 360. Im starting to tackle some of the more frustrating things to grab. An example is the collets for the rib-nut gun. I was keeping them in a cup like thing which caused all the parts to more or less stay mixed up. That then encouraged me to keep the most common ones in the drawer outside the cup which allowed parts to get scattered in the drawer. No more.

IMG_5670.jpeg

Next is the hole saw drawer. Most of my hole saws are Morse with the integrated shank. They’re awesome for fabrication but totally **** to store. I’ve resorted to storing them face down which does work well but also scratches the snot out of the drawer itself which drives me nuts. These organizers allow me to store them face up. I’m still working on the Tetris of them and will like change the size of a few to better interlock but I’m close. After going thru the collection I realized I’m about 5 short of a full set 5/8” - 4 3/8” so I went ahead and ordered the remaining few. You might be wondering what the heck I need with so many hole saws…well before CNC router I fabricated templates for repeat operations and used a hand router.

IMG_5666.jpeg

Next up are the tap drawers. I have a **** ton of taps but it turns out I have way less of specific ones that I thought (like taper taps). Instead of having to refer to a drill tap chart I decided to add those details to the trays themselves.

IMG_5535.jpeg

Add that detail, and keeping the drills and taps right next to each other (instead of above/below like in the old shop), it should be way faster to get the setup I need for any given thread.

IMG_5539.jpeg

This drawer will give you an idea of what I’m shooting for but will need to be tweaked more than a little before it’s done because some of the organizers I printed I don’t need. E.g. I’ll always have spiral point and spiral flute taps in every size because I use them primarily in the knee mill and tapping arm. Tapers I like for starting threads when power tapping on the lathe (tho only really good in larger sized taps). That said, I never buy taper taps so I have way less than I used to which eliminates the need for having a dedicated place for them.

IMG_5545.jpeg

Last for how, Celco organizer. Cleco’s are a rarely used tools for me because I rarely do sheet metal work. I’ve been content keeping them in a little cardboard tray in the corner of a drawer but always disliked the digitization of doing so. This will be way better and make reaching for them enjoyable.

IMG_5671.jpeg
I love that cleco holder!
 
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lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
My biggest fear of starting down this rabbit hole for organization is that I know there are still a ton of tools I want/need to eventually buy. If I make my drawers perfect for now I could be tossing an entire drawer full of prints in a couple of months when I finally need one of those tools for a project and at it to the collection. I likely will still do it anyways.
It’s always been that way for me. The tool box is always evolving and changing and I’ve already accepted that maybe I will pitch a bunch just in normal tool replacement situations. I decided that is one of the risks of having this level of organization. May not be for everyone tho. It’s also not cheap and the expense is also an important thing to consider.
 
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lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Alright…damn this moving and re-organization thing. It’s causing me to go thru $hit that I tucked away like suppressed memories of another time where stuff was…different.

I unpacked one box and had a memory in a past life where I recalled using the chalk markers for metal work that utilize round chalk. It’s cumfy.

IMG_5679.jpeg

So I thought to myself - “self, order some more of that round chalk because I ain’t gots much”. Like a hundred or something. I’ve been slipping on “consumable inventory”. So I did.

IMG_5680.jpeg

Now I’m unpacking a different box from a different time and I’m like “WTF, how did I live without the flat marking chalk”?!?

IMG_5681.jpeg

Maybe every prototype part I made on the press-brake I had my trusty square chalk marker. I only have 3 more…

IMG_5682.jpeg

My brain says order more! Order more! Am I losing it? Flat or round? Seriously, I don’t need this on a Friday. 😂
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
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Location
Colorado
Didn’t get a lot of time last night but did get the sleeves installed in the oven base. The hole is drilled thru the square tubing at 1/2” and then top only is expended to 3/4”. Then a piece of 3/4x.250 DOM tubing is cut amd pressed (hammered) into the top hole and I press a boot thru to ensure it’s located correctly. Little tacks with the TIG keep it in place.

IMG_5687.jpeg

Remove the bolt and weld it all the way around.

IMG_5690.jpeg

Installing feet into the tubing this way helps the tubing better bear the load that will be on top of it.

IMG_5692.jpeg

The excess stud will be concealed inside the oven wall if fully lowered.

IMG_5693.jpeg

Plenty of adjustability for what I need. I’m only needing to handle a few degree drop over 3’.

IMG_5695.jpeg
 

Horror Business

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Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
504
I deeply appreciate that you not only show us the what, and the how, but also take time to explain the why. Understanding the why is crucial to learning (at least for me it is) and it helps the learner make future judgement calls, and life is all about judgement calls. Thank you.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
How heavy is this oven?
Conservative calculations - 4x8 of 16ga steel weighs ~88lbs. 7 sheets inside, 7 sheets out - 1200 lbs. I’m gonna an assume that the rounding up if the sheet metal (I won’t use 16ga on the outside) covers the steel studs and insulation. Let’s add another 200lbs for the ducting, fan, and controller. Maybe add another 100 for some reinforcement of the door, hinges, etc

So less 1500lbs. 😜

If you’re gonna say the inserts in the rectangle tubing wasn’t necessary, maybe but it took maybe half an hour and I’d rather super overkill it now instead of find out they’re twisting because I never took engineering classes. 😆
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
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Colorado
I like that DOM insert technique for thru bolting! Clever.
It works very well keeping one side captive and it helps prevent bolt creep or hollow tube expansion. More or less it’s where you tighten the bolt to correct torque but the tubing shape can’t hold the tension over time causing the bolt to become loose. I used it in the suspension systems (jeep stuff) where a bolt needed to go thru a vehicles frame.
 

csp

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Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
I'd call the DOM inserts overkill for sure. I have a deep appreciation for such overkill. :D

With all of the trays/dividers/etc that you're printing I'm curious what happened to all of the organizing pieces that you had machined for use at the old house?
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
I'd call the DOM inserts overkill for sure. I have a deep appreciation for such overkill. :D

With all of the trays/dividers/etc that you're printing I'm curious what happened to all of the organizing pieces that you had machined for use at the old house?
Some have been pitched but I have most of them still. You want em?
 
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lilscorpion

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Colorado
I clearly have ADD. I’m in the middle of organizing many of my tools/tooling drawers right now and realized I need to move my hardware out of my main base cabinets and into the ones at the head of the shop. Sooooo, off I go - smaller fasteners will be in the smaller bins. Grade 5 will be space grey and black lettering.

IMG_5721.jpeg

I checked size, these smaller bins will work for the various standard fasteners. IMG_5721.jpeg

I’ve stocked for a while many different kinds of fasteners (crazy I know): nylock, low profile nylocks, top locks, flanged mid-locks…haha. Not for all sizes
And thread pitches, but for a lot of them. Clearly this one bin won’t suffice. Need to figure it out. Conceptually you get it.

IMG_5721.jpeg

Grade 8 will be in yellow with black lettering. Figuring out sizing as the bolts get larger will take some practice.

IMG_5722.jpeg

Heres a setup with normally delivered quantities from McMaster (except the 1-1/4 which I raided recently when building the material carts). Bins this size will work for 3/8” and 5/16”.

IMG_5723.jpeg
 
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lilscorpion

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Colorado
Playing around with Fusion in prep for making sheet metal parts (once I have the plasma and press brake up). Fusion is fairly intuitive but I'll need to play with real parts before I can better understand how it works for real. Also, I kinda expected there to be more configuration adjustments but we'll see if it matters once I get to bending.

TestSheetMetalPart.png

Here's an example: in the picture above, using "Start" for the bend line position I had to add little extensions to get to a weldable joint (where the wings fold into the main body) which makes very little sense to me...deviates from the value of CAD/Software.

Screenshot 2025-04-04 124924.png

To me it seems like I should be using "Center" but if I do the wings collide with the part and I get an error.

Screenshot 2025-04-04 124809.png

I don't see an override that will enable me to adjust this collision either. Any ideas?

Screenshot 2025-04-04 125627.png
 

slodat

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Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
This is how I would make this part. Maybe it will help.

Start with the base flange sketch:
1743881807422.png

When the sketch is all black lines, it is fully defined/constrained. Next use the flange tool to turn that sketch into a solid. The reason to use the flange tool is the thickness is based on the sheetmetal rule. 14ga CRS using the 1/2" die in my case.
1743881898825.png

From there I pull three flanges from the bottom edge of the base flange. Note I've selected "Two Offsets" for each flange.
1743882025305.png

On the long edge I use a negative offset of the material thickness. Also note that "miter corners" is deselected, and the relief shape is changed to tear.
1743882321955.png

Then on the two sides I use an offset of 0.001":
1743882423053.png

This closes the corner, leaving a 0.001" gap. Then make a flat pattern:
1743882476894.png

The resulting flat pattern:
1743882508934.png

The aqua colored lines are the edges of the bend radius, and the center is the bend centerline. To give the sides the angle, make a sketch on one side:
1743882663583.png

Extrude through the part:
1743882699169.png

Updated flat pattern:
1743882735996.png
 
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lilscorpion

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Colorado
The resulting corner detail:
1743882831740.png

This kind of part doesn't require welding, generally speaking. We do weld parts like this when the project warrants. It's a quick fusion weld with little if not any filler.
Thanks Stephen. So in this case you're using a flange instead of a bend. That would be why I don't have an options other than "Start", "Center", and "End. Flange can work but based on how it's utilized, it seems like it's not technically part of the part. Meaning, what happens when your model has multiple connected bends that fold up into the entity? I do agree however that this is a much easier way to do what I was trying to do. Makes sense. I'll see if I can add a flange to a flange...

Screenshot 2025-04-05 154610.png
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Colorado
well today wasn’t anticipate. Made the sheet goods cart big enough to hold ~30 sheets of 3/4” ply. While at the ply-gettin’ store I was offered a deal I couldn’t refuse - 20% off so I bought almost all of it. Now I got a storage problem again even with the new cart.

IMG_5749.jpeg

Even so, I’m happy. Happy is good. 42 sheets of 3/4, 12 sheets of 1/2, and 8 of 1/4”. Let’s build!! 😆

IMG_5748.jpeg
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
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Location
Colorado
had the 3D printers working on some shop parts today as well. Made some test caps out of PLA for the plywood cart.

IMG_5742.jpeg


Made a few adjustments and then printed enough for all the tubing ends. Best part is they were being made while I was out getting plywood.

IMG_5747.jpeg

Pulled them off the sheet when I got home. PETG prints nice when it lays down right.

IMG_5750.jpeg

And smacked them in place with a 0 dead blow.

IMG_5752.jpeg

Maybe the best part of having the 3D printers now is the ability to make whatever I want with nothing more than a spool of plastic and things like this really are the finishing touch. Can’t wait to be able to powder coat the cart as well.

IMG_5751.jpeg
 
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