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Looking at subcompact/compact tractors.

NUTTSGT

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I can have the loader off and back on again in a few minutes in my Deere 2038r. It’s bonkers quick. Takes longer to hop off the seat to hook/unhook the hydraulics than to do any other part of it.

The drive over auto connect mower deck is also insanely fast to drop and connect. Takes longer to flip the little floppy things to unlatch it than to actually drive on and off. Mostly it’s because my fat *** has a speed limiter lol
I drop my bucket but never felt the need to remove the FEL itself.


Drive over deck on the 1025R was a piece of cake, one you had it down as what to do and what not to do.

Never do it on concrete, that damn deck will slide and you'll wonder why your ******* even thought it was a good idea. Gravel or the yard. Put it in low/4wd and pay attention to what you are doing.
 
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Firebrick43

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And you can get a cab with AC!
KUBOTA_ZD1211_8-scaled-3966547503.jpg

You can get a cab with AC on most of the larger zero turn brands now.

As for the other discussion for loader removal time, that is dependent on the design of the loader and tractor and not the size of the loader/tractor.

Even my 50 hp loader from 1967 can come off in under 5 mins if i have a battery powered impact and the stands are where am dropping it.

Quicke and westendorf makes loaders that even on large tractors can come off in under a min. Westerndorf even makes one model that you never need to leave the cab.

 

930dreamer

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This might have been posted already but, Tractor Time With Tim on YouTube is worth a look for information. Seems the next bigger model weight/ hp wise with less comfort features is better than a smaller model with more comfort features. If you get my meaning?
 

manwithtools

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If I had setup my diverter valve differently I would definitely be putting one of these on the tractor...
I'm going to use an electric actuator to allow operation of SSQA from the driver seat. I have all the commercial parts, just need to fabricate some attachment brackets and put it all together.
 

PCustoms

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I'm going to use an electric actuator to allow operation of SSQA from the driver seat. I have all the commercial parts, just need to fabricate some attachment brackets and put it all together.
Exactly.

I put mine up by the manifold, and ran 2 lines down the loader for the grapple.

Had I mounted it on the FEL, I could easily have used one with more ports, and had the ssqa hydraulic.

Since I originally needed the grapple for a ton of demo work I wanted to minimize expensive things being exposed on the FEL.
 

jblnut

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I drop my bucket but never felt the need to remove the FEL itself.
I drop my loader when mowing. It rattles and bounces all over and makes me feel better. Plus I get into some tight spots and that little bit of extra room makes all the difference. It stays on for all other activities. It’s a great built in ballast for 3pt work. Scoop up some dirt and you have an instant front ballast box.

Never do it on concrete, that damn deck will slide and you'll wonder why your ******* even thought it was a good idea. Gravel or the yard. Put it in low/4wd and pay attention to what you are doing.
The dealer failed to mention this at first and I struggled a few times before grumbling that something must not be adjusted correctly. “Put it on dirt and take it off !!” Was the answer. Problem solved lol.
 
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pl_silverado

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West Bradford, PA
Keep the mower separate from the TLB. And get a construction grade overbuilt TLB.

Had a BX25 TLB with 54" belly mower. It was PTO driven, which was nice. But a pain in the *** to remove and reinstall, and too big with the bucket and hoe on the back to meander thru the yard at times. Lifting capacity was terrible. Honestly it wasn't all that much better or faster than a wheel barrow and a shovel.

Sold that and bought a cheap John Deere S240 mower, which is still going strong. Replaced the BX with a B26TLB 5 years ago, this thing has the power that the bx should have had. But no mid mount PTO, so no mowing. Strictly used for digging with a 24" bucket on the how, grading with either a box blade or front bucket or moving stuff around with forks. Forks are almost always on it. The hydraulic thumb is worth every penny. Sold off the brush hog and grapple as I seldom used them.

When the Deere mower inevitably breaks, I will buy another BX with just a 54-60" deck and no other attachments. The PTO driven deck and torquey diesel was much more pleasant to mow with than the pos Deere tractor.
 

njc41980

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Idaho Falls
Personally, I love my mid-mount mower.

I mow my two acres with my JD 2520 more than any other type of tractor work, so it stays on most of the summer. Only takes about 2-3 minutes to take it off, and the loader is even quicker to add or remove.

I'm sure a backhoe would be more work, but I don't have one.

The snowblower takes about 5-10 minutes.

No one likes changing implements - no matter how easy, but most of us can't afford ten different machines.
 

ATC

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Have you guys even looked at the pictures the OP posted? I don't understand why he needs a $30k tractor for mowing grass?
 

PCustoms

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Have you guys even looked at the pictures the OP posted? I don't understand why he needs a $30k tractor for mowing grass?

I did.

I also read this response from OP:

I will eventually. That area was a picture after it flooded. I live on a river bank. That is a creek feeding the river.

Looked at a TYM yesterday.

Can get a T25 with everything for about $30k, drawback is the backhoe/subframe.
 

ATC

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I did.

I also read this response from OP:

And what, in that reply, or any reply from the OP, suggests that he needs a tractor?

I'm not seeing it.

If he wants one just to have one?...sure, it's his money.
If he thinks he needs one to mow a yard and pick up one dead branch...well....I've got an idea that can save him about $25-30k
 

Firebrick43

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And what, in that reply, or any reply from the OP, suggests that he needs a tractor?

I'm not seeing it.

If he wants one just to have one?...sure, it's his money.
If he thinks he needs one to mow a yard and pick up one dead branch...well....I've got an idea that can save him about $25-30k

Quote from post 2

"About 8 acres between 2 properties"

If he has 8 acres the pictures don't show all of it.
 

JeepYJ

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Dec 25, 2015
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Have you guys even looked at the pictures the OP posted? I don't understand why he needs a $30k tractor for mowing grass?
He probably needs something closer to the $40-50k range. And then he needs attachments to make it useful so kick in another $8-15k.
This is GJ where every lawnmower discussion turns into a 72” diesel powered full suspension on tweels commercial ZT as the only option.
 

JeepYJ

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Do you need to trailer it between locations? That may be a consideration for size too unless you have a big trailer and truck already.
There doesn’t look to be much “lawn” type mowing there. I’d skip the idea of a belly mower and go with a flail or rotary cutter.
 
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Next

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East Kentucky
Do you need to trailer it between locations? That may be a consideration for size too unless you have a big trailer and truck already.
There doesn’t look to be much “lawn” type mowing there. I’d skip the idea of a belly mower and go with a flail or rotary cutter.
Less than a half mile in between them. Belly mower is probably out after thinking about it. $3k for one and I can buy a garden tractor for $2k that would last 10 years. I am buying a 18ft trailer though.
 

Scotto

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I'd get something like a front-mount rotary mower as a dedicated machine. That's a lot of wear/tears/hours on a tractor to cut grass IMO. I've got a New holland 40HP FEL with 500 hrs and a lawnmower with 2500 hrs. I sure as hell wouldn't want those additional 2500 hrs on my $30k tractor. Just my opinion!
 

njk4o5

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Dec 9, 2015
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Boston, MA
i have a massey gc2300 that I've put around 2000 hours on over the years. It has been a great tractor but as the others said anything under 30hp and they are pretty much a ride on lawn mower and really cant do anything other than mow a small backyard. i would also suggest the 20' or even 24' trailer because it doesn't fit at all on a 7x14
 

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930dreamer

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I'd get something like a front-mount rotary mower as a dedicated machine. That's a lot of wear/tears/hours on a tractor to cut grass IMO. I've got a New holland 40HP FEL with 500 hrs and a lawnmower with 2500 hrs. I sure as hell wouldn't want those additional 2500 hrs on my $30k tractor. Just my opinion!
Help me understand your statement. I don't have any personal use with a tractor so this is for my fyi. Are you trying to use your tractor the least amount of hours as possible? At 61 years old my first criteria would be cabbed comfort so that sets the purchase price up there.
 

Scotto

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Help me understand your statement. I don't have any personal use with a tractor so this is for my fyi. Are you trying to use your tractor the least amount of hours as possible? At 61 years old my first criteria would be cabbed comfort so that sets the purchase price up there.
Tires, engine/trans overhaul, etc are much more expensive and difficult to do on a tractor then a mower. At 44, my tractor should last the rest of my life, but it certainly wouldn't if I put the mowing hours on it, at least not without multiple rebuilds.
 

finn

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He probably needs something closer to the $40-50k range. And then he needs attachments to make it useful so kick in another $8-15k.
This is GJ where every lawnmower discussion turns into a 72” diesel powered full suspension on tweels commercial ZT as the only option.
You forgot the CTL and mini ex.

99% of the posters here don’t need a shop or tools, or eight acres either.

We could all watch YouTube all day. That would save everyone a heck of a lot of money, wouldn’t it?
 

finn

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Less than a half mile in between them. Belly mower is probably out after thinking about it. $3k for one and I can buy a garden tractor for $2k that would last 10 years. I am buying a 18ft trailer though.
I road my tractor the one mile between the house and the shop on a regular basis. Not a lot of traffic, although it’s the only road that accesses about sixty properties along a couple miles of shore, so traffic isn’t insignificant. No heavy truck traffic, since it’s not a through route.

I’ve tried using the trailer, but by the time I load, tie down, unload, etc, it’s just as quick and easy to road the tractor. Especially since it has a cab with climate control.

It’s a little far on the lawn tractor, though.
 

csp

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Franktown, CO
Just a few comments on power. My Cub Cadet has 25 HP and weighs in around 550 lbs. for 22 lb/hp.
I'm assuming at that weight your Cub Cadet is a riding mower. They did make CUTs in the 25-35hp range. I have one along with a Kubota L4350 and the CC is my go to most of the time just because of it's maneuverability vs the bigger Kubota.
 

cannuck

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I'm assuming at that weight your Cub Cadet is a riding mower. They did make CUTs in the 25-35hp range. I have one along with a Kubota L4350 and the CC is my go to most of the time just because of it's maneuverability vs the bigger Kubota.
Yes, it is indeed a garden tractor. I bought it from estate of our #1 SIL's uncle - who our grandkids knew and liked. It had about 40 hours on it and became the first non-electric, non-toy thing the boys learned to drive on (except our eldest at 5 was already running steering and blade on my D5). If we ever get a house up and lawn to cut, it will do that job, but also have an ancient 15HP some brand with IIRC A-C label. I am shocked that the old banger comes with a proper frame to attach thing while the now near 20 YO CC is nothing but light sheet metal.
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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I have pretty much zero experience to offer other than I have a friend with ~10 acres who bought a new Kubota tractor with a belly mower- going for the "swiss army knife" approach mentioned. Like almost everyone else that posted here said, he regretted the mower almost immediately and ended up buying a ZTR mower for the lawn area that he regularly mows.
 

jkeyser14

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i have a massey gc2300 that I've put around 2000 hours on over the years. It has been a great tractor but as the others said anything under 30hp and they are pretty much a ride on lawn mower and really cant do anything other than mow a small backyard.
Nonsense. I have used my BX23s for clearing several acres. Moving 20 tons of gravel. Grading land and grading a driveway. Clearing my 1000' long driveway of snow. Moving hundreds of yards of mulch. Making a 1/4 acre garden plot. Moving pallets full of tile. Unloading heavy shipments from box trucks. Moving building supplies. Skidding trees. Moving wood. All with under 300 hours on the machine.

I mow with a zero turn.
 

manwithtools

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Nonsense. I have used my BX23s for clearing several acres. Moving 20 tons of gravel. Grading land and grading a driveway. Clearing my 1000' long driveway of snow. Moving hundreds of yards of mulch. Making a 1/4 acre garden plot. Moving pallets full of tile. Unloading heavy shipments from box trucks. Moving building supplies. Skidding trees. Moving wood. All with under 300 hours on the machine.

I mow with a zero turn.
I think you missed the obvious sarcasm in @njk4o5 post ;) . Take a look at his included pictures.
 

nathanOH

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Nov 7, 2021
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Western Ohio
The OP never mentioned a desire for a bush hog or the need to mow pastures. If mowing acres of pasture/fields was the need, I’d certainly agree with you. I use to bush hog with a 1st gen Ford 2000 (gas), without an overrunning clutch on the PTO- it took some operator skill.

I went 10 years on our 10 acre property making do with what used tractors we could afford. No one in my or my wife’s family had ever purchased a new tractor. I started with a Deere 112 garden tractor (10hp Tecumseh) with a mower deck, front snow blade and front snowblower, because the primary needs were mowing and snow removal. A used rototiller gave me the ability to prepare our garden plots. Next I added a Ford 9N, which took over snow plowing duties, powered a cordwood saw and three point hitch concrete mixer, and dragged logs out of our woods.

In 1991 I purchased my Deere 755 (20 hp diesel, 16 @PTO) with FEL and 60” belly mower, which has seen use over the past few days setting 400 pound paver steps on Mrs. YankeeFarmer’s latest landscaping project. I have never wished for more horsepower. I run a 4 foot rototiller for garden plots and converting former woods areas to cultivated areas. The FEL has lifted everything in its capability, and wisely refused to lift items outside its capability. And I am smart enough to move very slowly when the loader is at or near max capacity to avoid over stressing other components. In 34 years, I haven’t broken anything on the machine, although I do need to replace the tachometer cable and light switch. Below is a picture of the driveway I excavated with it when we built our addition. Most of the stones in the wall came from excavating the hill. IMG_1570.jpeg

My 2 cents worth for the OP: My tractor with the 60” belly mower was my mower for about 28 years. It was a PIA to install/ remove the mower deck, so that stayed on from April to November, when it was removed for added ground clearance in snow removal and woods work. The rest of the year I had to be especially conscious of the low ground clearance. To make matters worse, I had to run my rear tires in the narrow position to clear the mower deck. With the mower deck removed, I reverse the rear wheels and the wider track provides much more confidence and stability on our hilly, uneven terrain. I know more modern tractors have easy on/off mower decks, so consider how that will impact your intended uses. (These modern tractors don’t feel near as stable as my old 9N did.) Finally, one of the most useful attachments I have added was a set of pallet forks that replace the front bucket for moving rocks, logs, and, occasionally, pallets.
The 755 tractors are a real work horse for their size, my dad had one for years and beat the **** out of it clearing trails and moving dirt and it never complained at all.
 

dougf

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Feb 22, 2013
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Missouri
I have an LS MT125 with bucket, belly mower, and backhoe. Love it. Honestly they are all about equal capability-wise within their classes and I would put more consideration into your dealer than anything. If you have a good, nearby dealer, it will make things way easier when there's a warranty or you need maintenance or parts. Reading stories about horrible dealers unwilling to warranty or assist, so I would place this aspect of your purchase nearly at the top of the totem pole.
 

CV428

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Dec 12, 2019
Messages
156
We pulled the trigger on a BX2380 (MMM + FEL) 6 years ago. It has been one of the best purchases in my life. We have about 5 acres total, 1.5 acres of lawn. Spring/Fall cleanup was a massive chore doing it all by hand (lots of larger trees, weird shaped property, lots of garden beds), and 20 yards of mulch each spring was starting to get annoying with a wheelbarrow and pitchfork. 20 yards of mulch was now just a few hours instead of multiple days. I have used that thing to move engines (including a Ford FE), rear ends, transmissions, boulders, tree stumps, dump truck loads of #57, dirt, you name it.

When Helene hit, I drove that little thing 2 miles along the main road to help push trees off the road and clear a path. That little thing has been really impressive.

Sometimes I wish I had gone with a bigger tractor for the lifting/digging capacity (and ability to have a backhoe) but projects requiring that aren't as frequent for me. And, the small footprint lets the BX get into places where a larger tractor cannot. I have pushed it way beyond what it is supposed to do (including tire-flipping large slabs of concrete, moving 4' dia tree stumps, bashing down old sheds, you name it). I grease the **** out of it and there is zero play in any of my pins/bushings despite the abuse I have put that thing through.

We actually just finished clearing about an acre, grading, and building a boulder retaining wall so I can put in an outbuilding next year and a jungle gym for my son. I did 75% of it with the BX2380 and the other 25% with a rented mini-ex. The BX2380 is ~22hp. I have always run out of traction before I run out of power, unless you're trying to lift something you simply shouldn't.

The only three complaints I have:
1) One of the fuel filters is a nightmare to get to (relocate it, easy)
2) Some of the grease fittings are buried and you can't use a Lock-n-lube on them
3) MMM drive-over ramps are poorly constructed - it's easier to just pull the MMM out the side when disconnected
 

JOE.G

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Feb 4, 2013
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765
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Eastern ( Catskills ) NY
I do suggest wheel spacers on the BX series, I did 2 in and it helps with stability. The BH has good power but I do wish the FEL had a bit more lifting power, I did turn the pump up some which helped.
 

Renegade1LI

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Mar 11, 2018
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long island ny
I think right now TYM is a great deal, my buddy got what I thought was a great quote. A TYM 3515H with backhoe, grapple, loader, forks & 3rd function valve for 35K. Not to mention the specs are & lift capacities are unbelievable for the price.
 

ericm

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Apr 17, 2016
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Southern Oregon
TYM 3515 would be a 15 series Branson. I have a larger 25 series Branson from before TYM bought them. It's a solid tractor. My impression is that the TYM models that aren't ex-Branson are a step down in quality.

Getting Branson parts has gotten more difficult since TYM folded Branson into their lineup and merged the parts operations a few years ago. Mine hasn't needed anything other than maintenance items and my excellent dealer is still around, but it's making me nervous eough that my next tractor will probably be something else.
 

PowerWagonBuilder

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NW of Richmond, Va
On a side note, I've also got a 9.5k mini and a 82hp bobcat for my 2.25 acres 😁. I do some side jobs here and there and occasional maintenance on some forest property, but I'd keep them all even if they never left the property. Just too dang handy to give them up.

Agreed on all this. If budget allows get multiple tools that will each do their task very well instead of one tool that will do them all sort of half assed.

I also have a 331E mini, S300 and S185 skids, Deere 2038r and lots of larger tractors on the farm. The 2038r gets used for anything it can do in a timely manner before hopping in either skid. SO much handier to get on and off and it doesn’t rut the grass up like the skids.

I ran a buddies 2032r with a backhoe and was very frustrated at the experience. It was better than using a sand shovel but painfully slow compared the using a mini-ex. I helped the same buddy out a few weeks ago when he ordered six 12yd loads of crushed concrete for his driveway and called asking if there was a way to increase lift capacity of the loader so he could move around plump full buckets of dirt. I wandered over with the S300 and gave him a hand lol. Use the right tool for the job. He’d have gotten it done but it’d have taken days instead of a few hours.
I found my people... :cool:
I've got a '24 model Bobcat E48, a '23 JD 325G, high flow, fully spec'd, and an '01 Bobcat T190 OROPs just as toys / property maintenance / hobby things. I could have bought myself a fast car for my 40th Birthday, but a new Excavator seemed more functional and less tickets (so long as I call 811 first).

I don't see the Bobcat CUT line mentioned in this thread. Their machines are getting a good bit of praise for their lift capacity and overall build quality. My dad is currently a salesman for the local Deere chain and he said that the Bobcat stuff is where he'd be looking if he was shopping, (but don't tell anyone). However, he currently owns an early 2000's new Holland that I think he'll never let go of. He loves that thing.
 
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